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Thread: Motorcycle maintenance tips for new riders

  1. #1
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    Arrow Motorcycle maintenance tips for new riders

    As new riders, it is sometimes useful if we know the basic things that we need to do to maintain our bikes. If you just got into biking and don't particularly know what to do to maintain your bike in good working order here are some tips for you.

    #1 - Wash Your bike.

    May sound simple, but you will be surprised how many things can go unnoticed if it is covered with a cm of road dirt. Once a week or fortnightly is enough. After you wash it, and the bike has dried up, have a look underneath and around for some leaks. If you discover a leak, go to the dealer and ask them to see what is causing it. Your motorcycle shouldn’t leak, unless it’s a Harley (*JOKE*) They can usually say where it’s coming from and if it is a worry or not.

    #2 - Look after your chain


    Lubing your chain: Chain needs to be lubed every 500km (with chain lube you buy from bike shops) and cleaned every 1000km to maximize your chains' life. If you are riding in winter conditions in a very heavy rain, then after a day ride in the heavy ride you need to spray the chain with lube as water washes off your chain lube.

    Cleaning your chain: you need 1 jar, 1 old toothbrush, kerosene, old rag and chain lube, and you can do with some disposable gloves (not essential), and some old newspapers to put under your bike so you don’t mess up your driveway/garage. Dip tooth brush in kerosene, and go over a 10ish cm section of the chain. Brush from all sides like you brush your teeth. Don’t be shy with the kerosene. After you brush the section, dry it with the rag. Proceed to clean the whole chain this way. Leave whatever kerosene has left to evaporate for the next 3-5 minutes, then spray the chain with chain lube. NOTE: Spray the chain on the inside i.e. the side that touched the sprockets. Don’t spray it on the side. Your aim is to get chain lube between the links. All this usually takes about 20-30 minutes


    Tightening your chain: This is not a hard thing to do, but it's good to be shown by a professional how to do it first. You can learn from the manual too, but I prefer to watch first before I start tinkering on the machine I trust my life to. So, take your bike to a motorbike workshop or Cycletreads if you are in Auckland and ask them to tighten your chain for you and ask them to let you watch, and explain to you. If you don’t get it the first time, go again and ask the same way - no shame in asking to learn. Chain tightening cost about 10 - 20 bux as it is only a 5 minute job. How to know if your chain needs tightening - the slack of the chain should be between 25mm - 35mm when you are SITTING on the bike. Probably best to have a friend sit on the bike for you while you check it, as it quite hard to do it while sitting on the bike yourself. extreme situations - if your chain is super tight with no slack, your bike may snap the chain or over time eat away the gears in the engine, if the chain is too slack bike will feel sluggish than normal and chain may fall off and lock the back wheel causing you to crash. Hence the specified chain slack.


    #3 - Check your tyres


    Tyre Pressure: Your bikes manual should say what are the recommended tyre pressures for your bike. If you don’t have the manual, it usually specified on the side of the bike or under the seat. If that is also not obvious, then go to your local motorcycle dealer and ask, they will be only too happy to answer and give you recommendations.

    Check your tyre pressure every week - good idea to have a dedicated day to it (i.e. Saturday). Tyre pressure needs to be checked and adjusted when your tyres are COLD - i.e. you haven’t ridden anywhere on them in the past hour. Very few people have their own air compressor at home - if this is the case a good tool to have is a Pen Tyre pressure gage. You can buy from any automotive or bike shop, and is a handy piece of equipment to have for 10 bux. Use it to check the tyre pressure at home when tyres are cold and decide how many psi of air you need to add to your tyres, then go to the petrol station and check your tyre pressure again. You will probably find that it has gone up slightly. Then add the psi of air you calculated at home to the new tyre pressure you have obtained at the petrol station. Put the as much air as you think the tyre should have, and reached the pressure with YOUR gage, rather than trusting the machine at the petrol station. Those machines are sometimes off. If you are satisfied with the tyre pressure then you are done, if not, adjust by putting more air or taking some out until happy with the result.

    Note: If you intend to carry pillion, for a long distance you will need to increase the tyre pressure by 3-4psi on both tyres. Don’t forget to reduce the pressure after your pillion is no more riding with you.


    Tyre Wear: Learn to check your tyre wear. Minimum tyre groove depth by law is 1.5mm all around the tyre. anything less than that and you are in danger, especially in the wet, as the groves serve to channel excess water, hence helping you stay stuck to the road, upright.

    Check for punctures evry week.




    #4 - Check your oil level.

    Look in the bike manual or ask the motorcycle dealer to show you how. It takes 10 seconds but can save your bikes engine and your ass. Do it every 500 km when you lube your chain.


    #5 - Check your coolant level. Same as #4, learn how to check it, and if you don’t know how, ask. Can save your ass.


    #6 - Do your servicing regularly.

    Seems obvious but there are many people who neglect it. Most learner motorbikes are Japanese. Japanese bikes servicing periods are generally every 6000kms.
    Don't Ride Faster Than Your Guardian Angel Can Fly !!!



    Hey Alan, Alan, Alan....

  2. #2
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    Check ya indicators work as well as the brake lights, amazing how many people have non functioning ones...

    With the chain slack you're looking for the amount of movement midway between the sprockets, spin the wheel and watch for any tight spots... check the slack at the tightspot and adjust the chain for correct slack at this point. The chain is flogged when theres a large difference between the tight and loose spots (IMO If you're able to pull the chain off the back of the sprocket by more than 1/3rd of a tooth then i'd say the chain needs adjustment or if it has been then its on the way out)

    Most importantly, if you dont know then ask. If it doesnt look/sound/feel right then theres every chance it isnt.


  3. #3
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    Oil needs to be checked with the bike level and not on center stand. May sound obvious but i know someone who managed to overfill it

    Also a $30 foot pump is good for getting air into them black round things.

  4. #4
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    I thought you could do it for free at a petrol station :P
    Quote Originally Posted by nodrog View Post
    you dont get 180+ hp out of 998cc by being nice to trees.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by TOTO View Post
    Japanese bikes servicing periods are generally every 6000kms.
    Stupid Hyosungs with their 4,000 km intervals. . . .
    Quote Originally Posted by nodrog View Post
    you dont get 180+ hp out of 998cc by being nice to trees.

  6. #6
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    What is the difference to maintenance if you have a belt drive instead of a chain? There is obviously no oiling but do they need adjustment at all?

  7. #7
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    Belts stretch too and need adjustment from time to time.

  8. #8
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    Toto.. mate i've never seen a person sitting on a bike while the chain is been tighten..so i would disagree with what you have written here..and not speaking of a tight spot of the chain been the start of where it should be felt for adjustment is nut's.. cause if they had taken this for gospel and tighten a slack chain without knowing about a tight spot can snap a chain quicker than breaking a egg.. rear wheel drops into a pothole or edge and bang its gone nope and even a garage can get it wrong too so be aware .. they have a No fault policy ..jap's every 3000km's if you can afford it.. why cause they rev and oil get's burnt inside the motor..and motors just love fresh oil O-yeah and motor life gets extended
    .xjr....."What's with all the lights"..officer..

  9. #9
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    Undress your lady - she'll love it
    Take the seat off and remove any covers and fairings. Check the frame for signs of cracking. Look for chafing along all wiring looms. Trace all drains from the lowest point up to the source looking for kinks that might cause a blockage. Remove the front sprocket cover and check the security of the retention nut. Clean the accumulated gunk from under the cover while you're there. Jack up the front end and check the front wheel bearings for play. While you're there check that the steering head bearing hasn't developed a notch in the straight ahead position. Jack up the back end and check the rear wheel bearings for play. Check your brake pads all round. Tighten the cable adjusters at the lever to remove any slack. If the brakes feel spongy then they'll need to be bled.

    Finally. show some respect and redress your favourite girl.
    Manawatu Tag-o-rama Website. Mowgli's score: 38


  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by slimjim View Post
    Toto.. mate i've never seen a person sitting on a bike while the chain is been tighten..so i would disagree with what you have written here..
    On some bikes the difference between loaded and unloaded will be the difference between you having some slack and the chain being part of the suspension.


  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by slimjim View Post
    Toto.. mate i've never seen a person sitting on a bike while the chain is been tighten..so i would disagree with what you have written here..and not speaking of a tight spot of the chain been the start of where it should be felt for adjustment is nut's.. cause if they had taken this for gospel and tighten a slack chain without knowing about a tight spot can snap a chain quicker than breaking a egg.. rear wheel drops into a pothole or edge and bang its gone nope and even a garage can get it wrong too so be aware .. they have a No fault policy ..jap's every 3000km's if you can afford it.. why cause they rev and oil get's burnt inside the motor..and motors just love fresh oil O-yeah and motor life gets extended
    Oh yeah, that's right. When checking the chain I lean over the seat to weight the suspension. Check it then roll it forward half a meter then check it again. Repeat three or four times to get an idea of whether your chain has stretched unevenly. If you do have a tight spot, clean the chain, lube it then adjust it for the tight bit. Recheck and adjust again after a good ride. It will likely loosen up with use.
    Manawatu Tag-o-rama Website. Mowgli's score: 38


  12. #12
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    If someone who a new to riding is reading this , I would like to say that those are the minimum basics that you need to cover on your bike. Obviously, there alot of more in dept things that can be done to ensure your motorcycle is in good order, but for the complete newbie rider, thats what standard dealer servicing is for.

    As it is obvious this is a KB forum so there are all sorts of "experts" who all have different backgrounds and different maintenance habbits. Let the first post be a general guidline to how to maintain your motorcycle. If more in depth info is required, you can find endless articles from various sourses that deal with every single issue seperately.

    Quote Originally Posted by slimjim View Post
    Toto.. mate i've never seen a person sitting on a bike while the chain is been tighten..so i would disagree with what you have written here..and not speaking of a tight spot of the chain been the start of where it should be felt for adjustment is nut's.. cause if they had taken this for gospel and tighten a slack chain without knowing about a tight spot can snap a chain quicker than breaking a egg.. rear wheel drops into a pothole or edge and bang its gone nope and even a garage can get it wrong too so be aware .. they have a No fault policy ..jap's every 3000km's if you can afford it.. why cause they rev and oil get's burnt inside the motor..and motors just love fresh oil O-yeah and motor life gets extended
    As I said in the first sentance about chain tightening - get PROFESSIONAL to show you how its done the first time.

    If you read carefully you will see I said that i said that the CHAIN SLACK needs to be checked while someone is sitting on the bike.



    Slimjim , you are holding the whole class back...
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    Hey Alan, Alan, Alan....

  13. #13
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    Whoo, thanks Toto! This helps a lot, plus all the extra comments

  14. #14
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    Found something regarding, how to know when it is time to replace the tyres on your motorcycle...

    hope it helps someone.

    Don't Ride Faster Than Your Guardian Angel Can Fly !!!



    Hey Alan, Alan, Alan....

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by no_8wire View Post
    What is the difference to maintenance if you have a belt drive instead of a chain? There is obviously no oiling but do they need adjustment at all?
    Belts last for ages, I have heard of them lasting for 250,000 km but they are usually killed by stones going through them.
    But they do need some inspection. Check them for damage, missing teeth and tears. In your tool kit should be a little spring loaded widgit. It goes in a clip-hole under the swing arm and pushes the belt out. The belt tightnes adjustment should be between the two lines on the compressed widgit, it adjusts just like a chain.
    I wish Harley had a simple tool like this because its quite a challange to set the belt on a Harley. You have to use a scale and measure the deflection with a ruler.

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