Indicator not blinking

[Real_Wolf]

Hey, just today got the replacement bulb for my rear indicator. It now actually turns on when I signal, but neither it nor the front blink still. One side works fine, the other doesn't.

Anyone have any idea's what the problem is and how easy it would be to fix? And what I'd need to fix it

[Mom]

Did you replace like bulb with like bulb? Are they the same wattage/voltage?

[xxcbr69xx]

Maybe u have a dead flasher relay?

[Squiggles]

same wattage bulb? try the other sides bulb and see if it starts to work...

[Magua]

Does it flash if you rev the engine?

[CookMySock]

Did you replace like bulb with like bulb? Are they the same wattage/voltage?I agree. I bet the bulb is the wrong one.

Having said that, I have seen this happen on a car, and the problem was the indicator switch. Figure that one out... :shifty:

Steve

[YellowDog]

It can be only one of two things, which have already been stated.

Either you have the wrong wattage bulb OR your flasher relay unit has packed in (unlikely)

Why don't you try swapping both bulbs (back & front) from the working side to the not working side and then go from there.

[Real_Wolf]

I'll try that to see if it works, but it would seem to be whatever makes the oscillation in the circuit, because when the left indicator goes on it makes a spinning 'charge up' sorta noise like old old cars indicators, but the right one doesn't. I will switch them round tomorrow

[motorbyclist]

Hey, just today got the replacement bulb for my rear indicator. It now actually turns on when I signal, but neither it nor the front blink still. One side works fine, the other doesn't.

Anyone have any idea's what the problem is and how easy it would be to fix? And what I'd need to fix it


I'll try that to see if it works, but it would seem to be whatever makes the oscillation in the circuit, because when the left indicator goes on it makes a spinning 'charge up' sorta noise like old old cars indicators, but the right one doesn't. I will switch them round tomorrow

so which side doesn't work?

i'd put my money on DB's suggestion:stupid:

[CookMySock]

i'd put my money on DB's suggestion:stupid:Hey it wasn't my idea! I wuz just agreeing with Mom. :stupid: :laugh:

Steve

[Taz]

Also check the earths on each indicator to ensure they have good contact.

[Real_Wolf]

yeah, seems the problem is simply that its not drawing enough current to drive the system into oscillation.

I think its got a 6w in there atm, 12v6w, but the old one was 12v23w. It still shines, and it does blink at about 5k rpm (but slow), so its not as much of a problem as it was, but still need a new one.

Problem is, tried repco, tried cycletreads, tried atomic, tried michies automotives, so far no one has a 12v23w of the proper size.

Will bring the broken one along to the chiller tomorrow

[BANZAI]

I think you have Karma that makes your bike go wrong in someway.

[Danae]

I hear you ran out of petrol on the TNR :shit:

[Real_Wolf]

not just petrol, I ran out of gears....

Anyone know where a good place to get a new rod that goes from the gear lever to the actual gear um, whats the word, turning thing bit. That rod that goes between them, yeah, one of them?

I'm thinking I might try going to the wreckers on barry's point rd, or else stealing the xs's if it is the same sort. Failing that, not really sure what to do, although I could jimmy it into second and ride it to a garage

[Ragingrob]

Yeah I'd be calling round the wreckers, they should maybe know what other models will fit too so you should be all good.

[Squiggles]

its just a threaded rod of approx the right length... work out roughly what length you're going to need, then go find one @ the wreckers etc (taking the lever end with you so you can check it'll fit the thread.

Could even make yourself one with the right length of rod and a die

[motorbyclist]

not hard to make, and yes i have a spare (lever, spline and all, mind you)

[Dare]

I don't know if this is obvious or not but STOP BREAKING YOUR BIKES!
hehe jk, it happens to all of us (:

[Taz]

The threaded rod has a l/h thread on one end and a r/h thread on the other. How'd you lose it? Contact the wreckers mate. Only a phone call away.

[Real_Wolf]

pssh, i'm not breaking bikes, stuff is just falling off them. Alot. Anthrax, probably just shook itself loose.

Got a "spare" one from a wreckers, not really fromt he same bike. It still changes gears and such, and sorta fits, so it'll do until I'm rich and can get a proper one

[motorbyclist]

how much did this cost?


i might mention that the gear lever was adjusted worryingly high - ie the rod was about to fall out anyway

[Real_Wolf]

yes, i know the rod is dodgily high, but its fine for now, and later i'll get a better one

[shingo]

Do you have addditional nuts on it to lock it into place?

[Real_Wolf]

the nuts on it are on quite tight, and i've checked that it can't be turned so as to come loose, unless the actual thread gets broken inside the holding bit. The problem is moreso that its too short rather than that it is loose

[hayd3n]

you can get a resistor to allow the draw to be the same as the good ones

[Real_Wolf]

I thought of doing that, however the connections of the bulb make that more difficult to do, as i'd have to pull out the wiring and put the resistor there. Would be much easier to get a timing circuit which is not load based

[motorbyclist]

it has always been a wonder to me why we still use mechanical relays for indicators; a 555 timer driving a BJT or MOSFET (rated accordingly, of course) would be a much cheaper and reliable solution. all the thumb switch has to do is select which light to ground.

[Squiggles]

it has always been a wonder to me why we still use mechanical relays for indicators; a 555 timer driving a BJT or MOSFET (rated accordingly, of course) would be a much cheaper and reliable solution. all the thumb switch has to do is select which light to ground.

But will it make the ticking noise??? :eek:

[motorbyclist]

it could be arranged....

[Real_Wolf]

yeah, i agree, studying various electronics I couldn't help but think a two light blink circuit would not be hard to make, mind you transistors did cost a bit more back then.

Heck, you could just buy an opamp and have it driven into critical oscillation with a step voltage, put a dc offset so the 'negative' is then 0, and run both lamps through that

[xwhatsit]

it has always been a wonder to me why we still use mechanical relays for indicators; a 555 timer driving a BJT or MOSFET (rated accordingly, of course) would be a much cheaper and reliable solution. all the thumb switch has to do is select which light to ground.
You do, there's plenty of flasher `relays' just like this, fully electronic and they have a range in which they'll work. I've got one fitted to the cub, 6V, 8W-23W x2. So you can fit bulbs (front and rear) which are between 8W and 23W and it'll still flash at the normal rate. They're quite common in generic auto stores.

The only issue I have with it is that at high RPM the generator produces too much voltage and the flasher stops flashing.