Replacement reg/rect - any will do?

[CookMySock]

My Hyosung GT650R developed a short-to-ground fault in the stator windings (now repaired) but it looks like its toasted the regulator/rectifier, as expected.

Now it seems the reg/rect is a perfectly generic item? Three yellow wires, red and black/white stripe wires.

The stator is capable of about 350W, so are there larger capacity regulatorsthat that are better and smaller ones to be avoided ?

Any suggestions? Anything will do as long as the bolt holes match?


thanks,
Steve

[Warr]

.....
Any suggestions? Anything will do as long as the bolt holes match?

You nearly correct. More like "Anything will do"
The 3 yellow > Stator
The other 2,
1 > Output
1 > Sense wire

Check with your local bike wrecker first. Eg can even be a quad bike or whatever. This type of Regulator/Rectifier is common amongst Honda, Suzuki, Duk .... All you need is a 5 pin / 5 wire one.
*Important* Get one with a proper finned heatsink if possible :)

I read your stator thread. Good skills won the day there.

[CookMySock]

You nearly correct. More like "Anything will do"
The 3 yellow > Stator
The other 2,
1 > Output
1 > Sense wire

Check with your local bike wrecker first. Eg can even be a quad bike or whatever. This type of Regulator/Rectifier is common amongst Honda, Suzuki, Duk .... All you need is a 5 pin / 5 wire one.
*Important* Get one with a proper finned heatsink if possible :)

I read your stator thread. Good skills won the day there.Thanks Warr. Yeah it was a wee bit bodgied up, but hey the wheels aren't going to fall off coz of it.

Yeah theres a wrecker down the road who aparrently has a big box of rect/regs to try. I'll go see him on tuesday.

Steve

[xwhatsit]

Yeah theres a wrecker down the road who aparrently has a big box of rect/regs to try. I'll go see him on tuesday.
If you want a long-lasting never-fail reg/rec, look for a Shindengen SH232. Old-fashioned type with heaps of big fins to soak up the heat. Fitted to the CX500/CB250/CB750/CB400/dozens of other Honda bikes back when they had good regufiers. He'll have half a dozen, should be pretty cheap too, $20-40.

[CookMySock]

Thanks xwhatsit.

Steve

[Motu]

You can get 2 or 3 wire reg/recs from an autosparky - they use them on small tractors and stuff.Not cheap,but at least you don't have to pay the premium ''motorcycle'' label.

[vifferman]

There are also some newer ones with more wires that will do fine as well: 3 stator wires (usually yellow) and two each of the power (usually red) and green or black earth wires (good, because the double up means you can put one earth wire to the battery -ve, and one to ground on the frame), and one more 'monitor' wire that you hook into some circuit (such as taillight) that's live when the ignition's on.

[klyong82]

I heard the reg/rec used in the 98-01 yamaha R1's are pretty good units pricey though brand new at $200. Very popular replacement unit for the bad design early CBR's.

[CookMySock]

Roite, I got a yamaha one for $160 new. I had to change the plastic connector housing on the stator connector, and I replaced the terminals on the regulated output wires with spades.

Quick stator-to-ground isolation test - hi Z - pass!

Shove plugs in, start, and 14.4V on the battery! Sorted!

Thanks folks.
Steve

[vifferman]

I heard the reg/rec used in the 98-01 yamaha R1's are pretty good units pricey though brand new at $200.
That's not pricey.
That's about normal for an 'aftermarket' :rolleyes: Shindengen unit, whereas a "genuine" Honda one (also made by Shindengen) last time I looked (about 9 years ago!) was over $400.

[retired motoman]

I heard the reg/rec used in the 98-01 yamaha R1's are pretty good units pricey though brand new at $200. Very popular replacement unit for the bad design early CBR's.

True?? ill wait and see what the dealer says is up with my cbr , if
its the r/r i might have to see what they have to say about it.

[Hamish Carlson]

on the same topic. I just replaced the whole charging system on my bike, stator to battery. Now the new r/r unit I got from the wrecker is putting out the right voltage, but is heating up a damn site more than the old one I used to have. The old one was off a GN250, new one off a GSXR400. My bikes a gsx400. Is it gonna be alright? As I really don't want another 6 weeks without a reliable bike

[DEATH_INC.]

If you want a long-lasting never-fail reg/rec, look for a Shindengen SH232. Old-fashioned type with heaps of big fins to soak up the heat. Fitted to the CX500/CB250/CB750/CB400/dozens of other Honda bikes back when they had good regufiers. He'll have half a dozen, should be pretty cheap too, $20-40.
That looks like the old unit the gpz's had too, 'cept they have 6 wires, gotta be the toughest s.o.b. reg/rec ever made.....

[CookMySock]

on the same topic. I just replaced the whole charging system on my bike, stator to battery. Now the new r/r unit I got from the wrecker is putting out the right voltage, but is heating up a damn site more than the old one I used to have. The old one was off a GN250, new one off a GSXR400. My bikes a gsx400. Is it gonna be alright? As I really don't want another 6 weeks without a reliable bikeYeah the brand new one I got had smaller fins, and was physically smaller too. I'm sure it runs at a higher temperature.

Just reassure yourself that you can take it back if it goes pop, the guy knew what he was talking about, newer-technology reg/rects run hotter than the old ones, and all that sort of crap, and then just go ride. ;)

Sometimes you just have to trust that things will work. in a month or so, you will have forgotten about it. ;)

Steve

[Warr]

Yeah the brand new one I got had smaller fins, and was physically smaller too. I'm sure it runs at a higher temperature.

Just reassure yourself that you can take it back if it goes pop, the guy knew what he was talking about, newer-technology reg/rects run hotter than the old ones, and all that sort of crap, and then just go ride. ;)
......
Heat is what kills the R/R so keeping the air moving over them will make them work longer.
My model VFR the R/R is tucked away under a fairing and it is common practise to put a cooling fan over them. I did this on my previous VFR.
An alternative idea is to mount the R/R up under the headlight where they can receive a direct flow of air.
More wiring required or course but another worthwhile option I think.

[Hamish Carlson]

Mine is usually under the side panel, but I only have that on if I'm out to impress (not often), I have plans to weld a mount for it on the frame, just under the headlight, but thats a bit off, probably when I take the engine out for a rebuild.

[vifferman]

Mine is usually under the side panel, but I only have that on if I'm out to impress (not often), I have plans to weld a mount for it on the frame, just under the headlight, but thats a bit off, probably when I take the engine out for a rebuild.
You may not need to do any welding. On my VFR750, I got some 4mm aluminium plate(for free! From some merchant!), bolted it on the horn mount, and stuck the R/R on there. The horns were relocated - they're small, so easy to find homes for them. The only tricky part was I had to bend the aluminium plate a couple of times to allow enough clearance with the front mudguard at full compression of the front suspension.
Rewiring is a good idea, and easy to do. On the VFR, I pulled out all the wiring from the stator to the R/R and battery, and put new (more fatterer) wiring in. The path from the stator to the R/R was much shorter, although that from the R/R to the battery was longer. I also doubled up the earths: one to the battery, the other to that for the electrical harness, which on the VFR was on a radiator pipe on the engine. I changed things so the wires didn't go through the starter relay either. Got rid of ALL plugs: everything was spliced and soldered, then covered in two layers of heatshink, and stuck inside that split tubing designed for this purpose.
From memory, all this gained me half a volt!
See the pix here. (http://rides.webshots.com/album/35458602cOCSNv)

Sadly, I foolishly thought I'd never have to repeat this work, but a few months after I bought the VTR1000, the R/R died. Being in denial, I was sure it was everything else: not enough long trips, a bad battery (replaced it for nothing). It wasn't until I fitted a voltmeter to the dash, and monitored it, that the truth became apparent. This time, I just fitted an aftermarket R/R, eliminated the plugs nearest that (as it was those that failed first, killing the R/R), and mounted the R/R in a position in the air. Some fins had to be ground off to fit it, but it was more betterer than the tiny wimpy old one.
<a href="http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1120607043028386212rODsnO"><img src="http://thumb12.webshots.net/s/thumb3/0/70/43/120607043rODsnO_th.jpg" alt="New R/R"></a>

[CookMySock]

If you keep frying reg/rect's then check that your stator does not have a fault to ground. With the engine stopped, unplug the stator from the reg/rect and check ohms from each yellow stator wire to the battery NEGative terminal - should be open-circuit, infinity, or "O/L" on digital meters.

If the stator has a fault to ground it will have to be repaired or replaced.

Steve