View Full Version : Some info for a newbie please? GSXR 600
Got my K5 on the road today (beauty!) for the first time ever on a 600. But I don't know anything about 600's and have never really even heard anything about them so I have a few Q's as I am without the manual:
Does the red light above the speedo mean operating temp'? And the F1 flicking by the temp readout the same? I sure as hell hope so. After a few mins of pulling off the road and taking it easy (after a nervous wait) it didn't blow up so I figured it must be fine? This was after a 5 min warm up and 5 min slow ride, and it was reading out 51C at the time, but went to 70 something after a crawl through town. And what is the right temp before you give it a thrash, or even ride it?
Is the big bright white light the shift light? Not that I have gotten there but it seems the only answer. If so, why the button?
It accelerated VERY strongly for the first while after a gear shift (and this is about the same if either half or full throttle) it bumps up heaps of speed but then falls a little smoother, but then kind of starts feeling a little bit like I'm on a jet plane spooling up (lol). Is that a normal flat spot between acceleration? And before I do something stupid - I know that it's a performance bike, and I know the harder you ride it the less time between tunes or rebuilts and posible breakdowns, but are you suposed to use the entire gage for riding hard? Or stick under a certain rev?
Any other tips? Thanks
98tls
5th June 2009, 18:26
Got my K5 on the road today (beauty!) for the first time ever on a 600. But I don't know anything about 600's and have never really even heard anything about them so I have a few Q's as I am without the manual:
Does the red light above the speedo mean operating temp'? And the F1 flicking by the temp readout the same? I sure as hell hope so. After a few mins of pulling off the road and taking it easy (after a nervous wait) it didn't blow up so I figured it must be fine?
Is the big bright white light the shift light? Not that I have gotten there but it seems the only answer. If so, why the button?
It accelerated VERY strongly for the first while after a gear shift (and this is about the same if either half or full throttle) it bumps up heaps of speed but then falls a little smoother, but then kind of starts feeling a little bit like I'm on a jet plane spooling up (lol). Is that a normal flat spot between acceleration?
Any other tips? F1 is a fault code,cant imagine a red light would mean anything but somethings wrong.
98tls
5th June 2009, 18:30
.............http://www.gixxer.com/forums/archive/index.php/
slofox
5th June 2009, 18:34
You sure F1 is not FI - as in Fuel Injection? Coz if it's the fuel injection light I would be having it checked out, just in case...
98tls
5th June 2009, 18:38
You sure F1 is not FI - as in Fuel Injection? Coz if it's the fuel injection light I would be having it checked out, just in case... Once again,if its flicking F1 it needs to be put in dealer mode to see what the fault is,how to put it in dealer mode is in the link i posted.
You sure F1 is not FI - as in Fuel Injection? Coz if it's the fuel injection light I would be having it checked out, just in case...Actually, it might well be... I really hope not. Might run it for a little bit now and see if it comes back on to check FI or F1.
98tls- Where?
Just a question to determine if I can sleep tonight or not - As it was running, and made no really strange noises, the FI thing can't be anything too serious, can it?
slofox
5th June 2009, 18:53
Just a question to determine if I can sleep tonight or not - As it was running, and made no really strange noises, the FI thing can't be anything too serious, can it?
I would hazard a guess that it is unlikely to explode with the force of a nuclear detonation in the immediate future...hope that helps...:devil2: Basically, if it is working it ain't broke, izzit?
98tls
5th June 2009, 19:00
Just a question to determine if I can sleep tonight or not - As it was running, and made no really strange noises, the FI thing can't be anything too serious, can it? Sleep well mate its no biggie,from memory its just flashing F1 because theres/or it percieves there is a problem,guessing injection and to see what fault that is you put it into dealer mode then fix.As i say sleep well.
I would hazard a guess that it is unlikely to explode with the force of a nuclear detonation in the immediate future...hope that helps...:devil2: Basically, if it is working it ain't broke, izzit?On one hand I am SOOOOOO happy with the bike from my short ride. On the other I am feeling an impending doom with that I have only had it for one ride and am likely going to be forking out for it to be checked up on already.
Could it be because the lights and indicators are disconnected, although all the dash and everything is still there? Like, it could be sensing that the lights "arent working"?
Cajun
5th June 2009, 19:40
i have had my k4 600 for 5+ years now
know most of the ins and outs of it.
If the Fi light comes on again, you put it in 'dealer mode' to find what the fault code is.
That will tell you what the issue is.
Dealer mode is a plug under the main seat. and all you need is a small bit of metal - a paper clip works good.
Ok, there are more than a few pages on how to do it, but some say different things. How do you do it? And what should I do depending on what error it brings up?
98tls - wbks must have you in his ignore list as you've given him the answers and he just ignores you. No helping some people?
98tls
5th June 2009, 19:51
98tls - wbks must have you in his ignore list as you've given him the answers and he just ignores you. No helping some people? :killingmeFunny you say that,just came back to this and thought "fuck me i give up".
98tls - wbks must have you in his ignore list as you've given him the answers and he just ignores you. No helping some people?Sorry if it looks like I'm ignoring advice, he's told me it might or might not be a problem, but it thinks there is one, it's not catastrophic, and so I asked how you do the dealermode thing
droid
5th June 2009, 20:11
You need to clear your mail box. 98tl
Gremlin
5th June 2009, 20:17
But I don't know anything about 600's and have never really even heard anything about them so I have a few Q's as I am without the manual:
It accelerated VERY strongly for the first while after a gear shift (and this is about the same if either half or full throttle) it bumps up heaps of speed but then falls a little smoother, but then kind of starts feeling a little bit like I'm on a jet plane spooling up (lol). Is that a normal flat spot between acceleration?
And before I do something stupid - I know that it's a performance bike, and I know the harder you ride it the less time between tunes or rebuilts and posible breakdowns, but are you suposed to use the entire gage for riding hard?
I hope wbks doesn't get offended... but I carefully read the first post, read it to my boss, we're both laughing our arses off, and I would like to nominate the thread as best of '09.
You knew nothing about 600's, but bought the Suzuki, then seem to ignore the advice of those that have been through all this years ago?
You're also asking about riding hard? What have you upgraded from?
Follow 98tls's link to the gixxer forums, and start reading...
:killingme
i know its not "riding hard" but by that I mean 250+. Not fast, but i wudnt call it easy on the bike. was just wondering what the done thing is, but sorry for not impressing your boss...
AllanB
5th June 2009, 20:26
:whistle:I might keep an eye on this thread..:whistle::corn:
Fuckit, found the problem, and it's fixed, but feel free to entertain yourselves
So elaborate on the problem and the fix so others can use this post in the future.
Talked to the guy I bought it off and it's just a powercomander he left in it by accident which apparently makes it give that readout. Now it's just take it out and give it back to the dude next time I see him or what ever...
98tls
5th June 2009, 20:50
Talked to the guy I bought it off and it's just a powercomander he left in it by accident which apparently makes it give that readout. Now it's just take it out and give it back to the dude next time I see him or what ever... Glad you got it sorted.:niceone:
puddytat
5th June 2009, 21:02
It accelerated VERY strongly for the first while after a gear shift (and this is about the same if either half or full throttle) it bumps up heaps of speed but then falls a little smoother, but then kind of starts feeling a little bit like I'm on a jet plane spooling up (lol). Is that a normal flat spot between acceleration? And before I do something stupid - I know that it's a performance bike, and I know the harder you ride it the less time between tunes or rebuilts and posible breakdowns, but are you suposed to use the entire gage for riding hard? Or stick under a certain rev?
Any other tips? Thanks
Quite normal I think to have flat spots in acceleration...though you'd think the PC would've sorted that...My R6 is gutles till about 9 grand (like riding a "normal bike) then starts pulling like...? till about 12, then goes ballistic till 14500.....revs more than that, but its dropping off the torque curve.
70 degrees sounds about normal operating temp,& dont worry if it gets hotter as a fan will come on. Mines been up over a hundy in town..
Its a sports bike Bro & dey luv a good thrashin...its wot they be made for.
It'll rev high cause thats wot they do, but no use in taking it in to the red.
Mine'll rev to 16500, though I dont do it often as like I said earlier , its past its peak power then. Funny thing is , the more you ride it the more you'll get used to higher revs, & the more often youll be up there 'cause that where it gets interesting.
Get the manual Bro,& find the right Forum on the net...you'll learn heaps.
Talked to the guy I bought it off and it's just a powercomander he left in it by accident which apparently makes it give that readout. Now it's just take it out and give it back to the dude next time I see him or what ever...
Cough cough... Are you kidding? That dude has taken the time and expense to install a power commander! It involved dyno tuning the bike, at least it should have. It should make your bike run better than standard. You should be a lot better off KEEPING the power commander and ignoring the error code rather than giving it back to the dude...
The R6 pootles around up to about 8k. Then it picks up speed. From 10k onward it rips a hole into the time space continuum.
98tls
5th June 2009, 21:10
Out of interest i wondered about when unplugging a power commander does the ecu need to be 0d?Ive a Yosh box which you can do such a thing on ie my TL but have no idea on whats required with the power commander.
Offcourse I would like to keep it, but he had sold the bike to me without the PC rather than extra $$$, so it's rightfully his.
@98tls - No idea
How many extra $$ Might be the cheapest PC you'll ever get?
Well I got the bike for $500 less than wanted at an already low price, which was the offer WITHOUT the powercomander offered at $300 and another thing I can't remember at the moment. Not that I would keep it anyway, sense of honestly and all, but he knew as soon as I mentioned the error to him asking why that he had left it in the bike, and would have seen this thread and realized eventually anyway, and he wants it back
98tls
5th June 2009, 21:20
Offcourse I would like to keep it, but he had sold the bike to me without the PC rather than extra $$$, so it's rightfully his.
@98tls - No idea May well pay to find out mate...but dont lose any sleep over it.:doh:Easy way to find out is to unplug it and start the thing up.To be honest ive no idea but i do know the power commander was a step up from the yosh box i play round with in my garage,whether it can/needs to reset the ecu ive no idea.
May well pay to find out mate...but dont lose any sleep over it.:doh:Easy way to find out is to unplug it and start the thing up.To be honest ive no idea but i do know the power commander was a step up from the yosh box i play round with in my garage,whether it can/needs to reset the ecu ive no idea.Reading a few things it says that because it doesn't permanantly change the stock ECU it only needs to be unplugged. But whether that's completely right or not, I don't know
98tls
5th June 2009, 21:25
Reading a few things it says that because it doesn't permanantly change the stock ECU it only needs to be unplugged. But whether that's completely right or not, I don't know From memory i would say thats absolutely correct.:niceone:Forgive me im old,takes me awhile to remember what i know,lol.To be honest as an old bugger they scare me anyway,when they go bad,which they can (settle young cunts theres plenty of evidence) then you stop,and theres absolutly nothing you can do about it except start pushing.
From memory i would say thats absolutely correct.:niceone:Forgive me im old,takes me awhile to remember what i know,lol.To be honest as an old bugger they scare me anyway,when they go bad,which they can (settle young cunts theres plenty of evidence) then you stop,and theres absolutly nothing you can do about it except start pushing.Forgive me, I'm young and dumb, takes me a while go unscathed by people that know what they're talking about :confused:
At this point I don't really care about an extra few HP through the rev range, I'm just glad to get this bike
98tls
5th June 2009, 21:45
Forgive me, I'm young and dumb, takes me a while go unscathed by people that know what they're talking about :confused:
At this point I don't really care about an extra few HP through the rev range, I'm just glad to get this bike No worries mate,methinks your good to go.Take care on it eh.
And definately no "bugger I dropped it" threads in the near future ok?
:niceone:
Gremlin
5th June 2009, 22:40
Quite normal I think to have flat spots in acceleration...though you'd think the PC would've sorted that...
There are plenty of people out there that think simply adding a PCIII will magically fix all the problems. In reality, it does absolutely nothing, unless its preloaded with a map (normally comes with a zero map - ie, no changes).
Out of interest i wondered about when unplugging a power commander does the ecu need to be 0d?
no 98tls, the PCIII doesn't affect the stock ECU at all, unless there are different models out there. The standard PCIII plugs in, in between the ecu and the engine, in line, as such. It receives the signals sent by the ecu, adjusts them by the amount in the map (which basically contains small positive and negative numbers, to "adjust" the received signal) and sends the new number to the engine.
Creating the custom map, or using one of the net, is simply a grid of numbers (you can open the map with the PC Software), which is adjusted to fix areas where it is rich/lean.
Powercommanders retail for approximately NZ$700, in NZ. Cheaper from overseas, 2nd hand etc.
98tls
5th June 2009, 22:52
There are plenty of people out there that think simply adding a PCIII will magically fix all the problems. In reality, it does absolutely nothing, unless its preloaded with a map (normally comes with a zero map - ie, no changes).
no 98tls, the PCIII doesn't affect the stock ECU at all, unless there are different models out there. The standard PCIII plugs in, in between the ecu and the engine, in line, as such. It receives the signals sent by the ecu, adjusts them by the amount in the map (which basically contains small positive and negative numbers, to "adjust" the received signal) and sends the new number to the engine.
Creating the custom map, or using one of the net, is simply a grid of numbers (you can open the map with the PC Software), which is adjusted to fix areas where it is rich/lean.
Powercommanders retail for approximately NZ$700, in NZ. Cheaper from overseas, 2nd hand etc. Cheers,got him sorted.:niceone:Have got so old ive forgotten shit i used to know.
I tried a PCIII on my 79 Guzzi but try as I might I couldn't get it to work with my points and carbs..... But just having it duct taped to the bike has made it lots faster. If I can get a PC sticker I'm sure that'll help too.
R6_kid
6th June 2009, 15:19
I tried a PCIII on my 79 Guzzi but try as I might I couldn't get it to work with my points and carbs..... But just having it duct taped to the bike has made it lots faster. If I can get a PC sticker I'm sure that'll help too.
Without the sticker there is no point in running the power commander. EVERYONE knows that the power comes from the stickers, not the mods.
owner
6th June 2009, 15:35
my cbr runs at 78 degrees and 103 degrees in town
SlowHand
6th June 2009, 19:43
Having had a K6, sounds a patch up fix to me. You need to replace the general OS that controls the whole bike. Drop it off at my house and it will be fixed.
Gremlin
7th June 2009, 00:30
Just like you fixed that KTM 690SM demo huh? fixed good I believe... ditch fixed you up something proper too :whistle:
SlowHand
7th June 2009, 16:10
Just like you fixed that KTM 690SM demo huh? fixed good I believe... ditch fixed you up something proper too :whistle:
I did fix it of the OS problem. Doesn't your OS affect your slow speed gyro too?
Gremlin
7th June 2009, 18:47
Yeah, you fixed it so good, AMPS couldn't un-fix it, and then no-one had a 690SM demo to ride for a while.
My bike is fine... I haven't let you ride it... :bleh:
SlowHand
8th June 2009, 17:25
What are all those scratches from?
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