Hitcher
27th March 2005, 20:44
Thursday 10 March: Ashburton, Geraldine, Tekapo, Kurow, Oamaru.
We bid our farewells to Mrs H’s folks and rode south with the intention of reaching Dunedin that evening. The weather forecast was ambivalent, although Mid-Canterbury was windy with high overcast clouds.
Traffic on SH1 south from Ashburton was heinous, so at Hinds we baled out and took the Hinds-Arundel road. Straight as an arrow for most of the way and only about four other vehicles encountered. The northwester provided a more-than-decent crosswind, and riding the ST proved to be a bit exciting. This kept our speeds on this stretch closer to the legal limit than we have previously done along this drag-strip of a road.
The wind dropped markedly when we reached Geraldine. A fuel stop for bikes and ourselves respectively. At our coffee stop we had a chat with an Australian couple heading north on a Virago 1100 that they had freighted over. They had spent a week or so in southern parts and were having a blast on South Island roads.
Leaving Geraldine the wind soon returned and built considerably as we rode towards Fairlie. Highway 79 was otherwise in good order, apart from a regular procession of rental Toyota Corollas and Maui chicane.
Our plan, on leaving Ashburton, was to review weather conditions at Fairlie and pick our route south for the rest of the day from there. It looked as though the fine weather would hold and, hopefully, that a promised southerly change later in the day would take the edge off a fierce northwester, I opted for the wilds of SH8 across the McKenzie Country and, as is her custom, Mrs H followed.
Ascending Burkes Pass into the teeth of a gale, I began to question the wisdom of this. But once up on top, the wind dropped considerably. Apart from cloud hugging the Alps and most of the ranges of hills, the McKenzie basin was splendid. Wind-whipped snow grass and amazing lighting, with patches of brilliant sunlight interspersed with deep darkness beneath the passing clouds.
Tekapo saw a stop for the requisite photos at the Church of the Good Shepherd and petrol. Tekapo is becoming increasingly commercialised, with new subdivisions, tourist retail outlets and, inevitably, tourists. Bus loads of them. Everywhere. Is this where New Zealand should be investing for its future?
South of Twizel the wind built again, ruling out our favourite detour (a shortcut in reality) along the diversion canal and past the salmon farm. Today it was main road all the way. Enjoyment of the magnificent scenery on offer was reduced somewhat by the concentration required to keep a ST1300 upright and in the middle of its lane. Heavy showers skirted us in all directions but we escaped with only a few spits. The lighting on Lake Pukaki was breathtaking, exacerbating the brilliant pale green-blue of the water. Mt Cook was well obscured by cloud.
Our exploits from Twizel to Oamaru are recorded in the introduction to part 1 of this saga. With the wind and sun at our backs from the Ohau turnoff to Kurow we had a blast on this stretch and were able to enjoy the road and the wonderful views across lakes Benmore and Aviemore.
Thanks to a sudden cold southerly change, two chilled bikers decided to call it quits in Oamaru for the night, rather than pressing on to Dunedin.
Friday 11 March: Oamaru, Palmerston, Ranfurly, Omakau, Roxburgh, Lawrence, Dunedin
A benefit of spending the night at Oamaru was twofold. Firstly we got to spend the night in a magnificent bed-and-breakfast establishment (the only beds to be had in town on the previous evening); and secondly we had the whole day to get to Dunedin. This meant that we could abandon SH1 at Palmerston and head up through the wonder that is Central Otago.
The overnight southerly had dumped a considerably amount of snow on the hills. Our first sight of this was on the Kakanui Mountains as we were leaving Oamaru. The stuff of winter wonderlands!
Highway 85 from Palmerston to Kyeburn was new country for us on bikes. And magnificent country it is too. Very Grahame Sydney! Lots of nice sweeping corners, steepish ascents and similarly steep descents across this starkly curvaceous landscape. All framed by snow-covered hills. Cool, light winds, and most pleasant travelling.
We stopped for gas at Ranfurly before heading onwards. At Wedderburn the snow was to the edges of the road and there were houses still with snow-covered roofs – at midday! The hills behinds St Bathans were as starkly white as could be expected in the middle of winter, and this just the second week of March!
Our next surprise was at Omakau. Stopping for a photo opportunity, who should be madly waving at us from the other side of the road but none other than Lynda Blair! Our Omakau encounter, complete with photos is recorded in the “One fine day at Omakau” thread.
After a goodly stop, we headed off through Alexandra to Roxburgh for petrol. This stretch of road was also new to us on bikes. And it is another southern stunner! Great corners, steep ascents and descents and moonscapesque views across schist-outcropped escarpments and the magnificence of the Clutha River. Breathtaking!
From Roxburgh the countryside changes dramatically. Apple and stonefruit orchards adjoin the straightening road and an alluvial valley opens up. This closes up again into a greener river valley from Raes Junction, where the road begins to meander and wind again.
We stopped for a ubiquitous Southern milky coffee at Lawrence and again shortly afterwards to don wet weather gear and cover luggage. However the shower was short lived, resulting in not much more than a wet road for the balance of the ride through to Dunedin.
Milton to Dunedin meant SH1 and traffic – the “five o’clock rush” from there right into Dunedin. South Otago is prime sheep country and was looking magnificently green with numerous paddocks of happy, healthy sheep. A few years ago these would have been Romneys or Border Leicesters. Today these woolly creatures are genetic hybrids of traditional breeds, Texels and Finns. Lambing percentages and weaned weights have gone through the roof. High international prices for sheep meat have combined with this to make sheep farming in these parts extremely profitable. And it shows. Lots of new homes and buildings and a prosperous buzz to the country towns.
Arriving in Dunedin we were welcomed by Mrs H’s brother Bruce and treated to a fine evening’s dining on the new esplanade at St Kilda.
[Photos: Bikes, Mrs H, the Church of the Good Shepherd on a moody day at Tekapo]
We bid our farewells to Mrs H’s folks and rode south with the intention of reaching Dunedin that evening. The weather forecast was ambivalent, although Mid-Canterbury was windy with high overcast clouds.
Traffic on SH1 south from Ashburton was heinous, so at Hinds we baled out and took the Hinds-Arundel road. Straight as an arrow for most of the way and only about four other vehicles encountered. The northwester provided a more-than-decent crosswind, and riding the ST proved to be a bit exciting. This kept our speeds on this stretch closer to the legal limit than we have previously done along this drag-strip of a road.
The wind dropped markedly when we reached Geraldine. A fuel stop for bikes and ourselves respectively. At our coffee stop we had a chat with an Australian couple heading north on a Virago 1100 that they had freighted over. They had spent a week or so in southern parts and were having a blast on South Island roads.
Leaving Geraldine the wind soon returned and built considerably as we rode towards Fairlie. Highway 79 was otherwise in good order, apart from a regular procession of rental Toyota Corollas and Maui chicane.
Our plan, on leaving Ashburton, was to review weather conditions at Fairlie and pick our route south for the rest of the day from there. It looked as though the fine weather would hold and, hopefully, that a promised southerly change later in the day would take the edge off a fierce northwester, I opted for the wilds of SH8 across the McKenzie Country and, as is her custom, Mrs H followed.
Ascending Burkes Pass into the teeth of a gale, I began to question the wisdom of this. But once up on top, the wind dropped considerably. Apart from cloud hugging the Alps and most of the ranges of hills, the McKenzie basin was splendid. Wind-whipped snow grass and amazing lighting, with patches of brilliant sunlight interspersed with deep darkness beneath the passing clouds.
Tekapo saw a stop for the requisite photos at the Church of the Good Shepherd and petrol. Tekapo is becoming increasingly commercialised, with new subdivisions, tourist retail outlets and, inevitably, tourists. Bus loads of them. Everywhere. Is this where New Zealand should be investing for its future?
South of Twizel the wind built again, ruling out our favourite detour (a shortcut in reality) along the diversion canal and past the salmon farm. Today it was main road all the way. Enjoyment of the magnificent scenery on offer was reduced somewhat by the concentration required to keep a ST1300 upright and in the middle of its lane. Heavy showers skirted us in all directions but we escaped with only a few spits. The lighting on Lake Pukaki was breathtaking, exacerbating the brilliant pale green-blue of the water. Mt Cook was well obscured by cloud.
Our exploits from Twizel to Oamaru are recorded in the introduction to part 1 of this saga. With the wind and sun at our backs from the Ohau turnoff to Kurow we had a blast on this stretch and were able to enjoy the road and the wonderful views across lakes Benmore and Aviemore.
Thanks to a sudden cold southerly change, two chilled bikers decided to call it quits in Oamaru for the night, rather than pressing on to Dunedin.
Friday 11 March: Oamaru, Palmerston, Ranfurly, Omakau, Roxburgh, Lawrence, Dunedin
A benefit of spending the night at Oamaru was twofold. Firstly we got to spend the night in a magnificent bed-and-breakfast establishment (the only beds to be had in town on the previous evening); and secondly we had the whole day to get to Dunedin. This meant that we could abandon SH1 at Palmerston and head up through the wonder that is Central Otago.
The overnight southerly had dumped a considerably amount of snow on the hills. Our first sight of this was on the Kakanui Mountains as we were leaving Oamaru. The stuff of winter wonderlands!
Highway 85 from Palmerston to Kyeburn was new country for us on bikes. And magnificent country it is too. Very Grahame Sydney! Lots of nice sweeping corners, steepish ascents and similarly steep descents across this starkly curvaceous landscape. All framed by snow-covered hills. Cool, light winds, and most pleasant travelling.
We stopped for gas at Ranfurly before heading onwards. At Wedderburn the snow was to the edges of the road and there were houses still with snow-covered roofs – at midday! The hills behinds St Bathans were as starkly white as could be expected in the middle of winter, and this just the second week of March!
Our next surprise was at Omakau. Stopping for a photo opportunity, who should be madly waving at us from the other side of the road but none other than Lynda Blair! Our Omakau encounter, complete with photos is recorded in the “One fine day at Omakau” thread.
After a goodly stop, we headed off through Alexandra to Roxburgh for petrol. This stretch of road was also new to us on bikes. And it is another southern stunner! Great corners, steep ascents and descents and moonscapesque views across schist-outcropped escarpments and the magnificence of the Clutha River. Breathtaking!
From Roxburgh the countryside changes dramatically. Apple and stonefruit orchards adjoin the straightening road and an alluvial valley opens up. This closes up again into a greener river valley from Raes Junction, where the road begins to meander and wind again.
We stopped for a ubiquitous Southern milky coffee at Lawrence and again shortly afterwards to don wet weather gear and cover luggage. However the shower was short lived, resulting in not much more than a wet road for the balance of the ride through to Dunedin.
Milton to Dunedin meant SH1 and traffic – the “five o’clock rush” from there right into Dunedin. South Otago is prime sheep country and was looking magnificently green with numerous paddocks of happy, healthy sheep. A few years ago these would have been Romneys or Border Leicesters. Today these woolly creatures are genetic hybrids of traditional breeds, Texels and Finns. Lambing percentages and weaned weights have gone through the roof. High international prices for sheep meat have combined with this to make sheep farming in these parts extremely profitable. And it shows. Lots of new homes and buildings and a prosperous buzz to the country towns.
Arriving in Dunedin we were welcomed by Mrs H’s brother Bruce and treated to a fine evening’s dining on the new esplanade at St Kilda.
[Photos: Bikes, Mrs H, the Church of the Good Shepherd on a moody day at Tekapo]