View Full Version : cbr250rr Mc22 won't start, battery + fuses OK?
The Pastor
21st July 2009, 08:52
Bike wouldn't start this morning. - made a rapid clicking sound.
Checked the battery and fuses, they are fine - i think there is only 2 fuses on this bike, next to the battery and under the fake ram air duct on the front fairing.
I think it might be the CDI? how can I check this?
Thanks for your help
R to the M
bungbung
21st July 2009, 08:59
Battery.
You say that you tested it. How did you do that?
The Pastor
21st July 2009, 09:06
with my tounge, it gave me a good zap.
Or i used a multimeter, cant quite remember.
ducatilover
21st July 2009, 09:11
It's the battery mate, my spad-uh does the same thing when the voltage drops. If you use a multimeter and check the voltage drop on the battery whilst attempting to crank the motor you may find your problem. If you have a sealed lead acid battery it may not want to jump start either. I had the same problem yesterday and it was reading 9.4v under load.
The Pastor
21st July 2009, 09:13
ok i'll recheck it when i get home, but it didn't want to bump start either,
ducatilover
21st July 2009, 09:18
ok i'll recheck it when i get home, but it didn't want to bump start either,
They don't like to after the battery is shagged, mine is the same it is an epic fail. You may need a new battery.....they don't charge after being run flat. Dirty piles of crap. Good luck bro.
CookMySock
21st July 2009, 09:22
You say that you tested it. How did you do that?Same way you test a 9V battery. :lol:
If the dash lights dim then then the battery is shot, or else a terminal is loose. Most likely shot battery considering the time of year.
Put it on the charger and see if it recovers. Test voltage before and after.
Steve
jetboy
21st July 2009, 10:21
What about the starter motor?
The Pastor
21st July 2009, 15:07
just re checked the voltages, it reads 12.25volts, this should be fine?
The Pastor
21st July 2009, 15:09
What about the starter motor?
how can I check that one?
CookMySock
21st July 2009, 15:11
just re checked the voltages, it reads 12.25volts, this should be fine?You cant really tell by doing that. Do the same test again, then flip the key and the headlights on, and post the two voltages.
Steve
tigertim20
21st July 2009, 15:11
was it 12.25 volts when you were just checking it sitting still, or was 12.25 what it dropped to at the same time as you hit the starter?
jetboy
21st July 2009, 16:30
how can I check that one?
I have a bloody good manual at home somewhere - I'll dig it up if I remember :doobey: and post them up.
I had that issue with my cage a wee while ago - battery and fuses ok but the fn starter was knackered!
ducatilover
21st July 2009, 20:05
just re checked the voltages, it reads 12.25volts, this should be fine?
Check cranking volts mate. If you have an owners manual check that for a current drop reference :clap: Good luck
The Pastor
24th July 2009, 09:22
Check cranking volts mate. If you have an owners manual check that for a current drop reference :clap: Good luck
ok so i replaced the battery, and its still not starting, great use of $88!
any ideas? how to check the startor motor?
bungbung
24th July 2009, 09:26
1) Charge the battery fully. Check its also holding its charge, about 12.7v should do the trick.
2) Clean your battery terminals. Clean off all oxides with sandpaper or a file until bare metals remains.
3) Clean the wiring terminals which attach to both the battery and the solenoid in the same way as you cleaned the battery.
3) Check that the large positive wire from the battery to the solenoid is in good order. This is thicker than normal wiring as it is carrying more current to the starter motor. If this is in poor condition or some of the wire is coming away from the connector, replace it, it's shot.
4) Ensure the fuse in the solenoid is in good order. Its a 20a fuse. Never use higher than 20a, always use lower but be aware it'll blow more frequently.
5) Use good clean nuts and bolts and tighten properly.
6) Make sure your negative battery terminal is properly earthed to the frame, clean both connectors if necessary. Believe me, everybody at some point forgets to do this, and you feel such a D!ckhead stratching around for the answer when it was infront of you all the time........
This should get the thing back up and running. If it still doesnt work and you suspect that the solenoids shot, do the following:
Take a booster pack and connect the negative to the frame. Now connect the positive to the the nut attached to the starter cable, this is the nut NOT attached to the positive cable from the battery. You might get a few sparks but you should also hear the starter motor spinning freely. If this is the case, your soleniod may be the culprit,
The Pastor
24th July 2009, 09:34
1) Charge the battery fully. Check its also holding its charge, about 12.7v should do the trick.
2) Clean your battery terminals. Clean off all oxides with sandpaper or a file until bare metals remains.
3) Clean the wiring terminals which attach to both the battery and the solenoid in the same way as you cleaned the battery.
3) Check that the large positive wire from the battery to the solenoid is in good order. This is thicker than normal wiring as it is carrying more current to the starter motor. If this is in poor condition or some of the wire is coming away from the connector, replace it, it's shot.
4) Ensure the fuse in the solenoid is in good order. Its a 20a fuse. Never use higher than 20a, always use lower but be aware it'll blow more frequently.
5) Use good clean nuts and bolts and tighten properly.
6) Make sure your negative battery terminal is properly earthed to the frame, clean both connectors if necessary. Believe me, everybody at some point forgets to do this, and you feel such a D!ckhead stratching around for the answer when it was infront of you all the time........
This should get the thing back up and running. If it still doesnt work and you suspect that the solenoids shot, do the following:
Take a booster pack and connect the negative to the frame. Now connect the positive to the the nut attached to the starter cable, this is the nut NOT attached to the positive cable from the battery. You might get a few sparks but you should also hear the starter motor spinning freely. If this is the case, your soleniod may be the culprit,
yeah my battery and terminals / cabels etc are all in good order.
so it could be the soleniod, what is that?
CookMySock
24th July 2009, 09:57
ok so i replaced the battery, and its still not starting, great use of $88!You dick. If you had worked through it in a methodical fashion we could have saved you some cash, or at least spent it on a battery charger instead.
Anyway, did the bike immediately refuse to start on the brand new battery? If so, it's not the battery.
Or did you ride it around until the battery went flat, and then it refused to start ?
Steve
The Pastor
24th July 2009, 09:59
you dick. If you had worked through it in a methodical fashion we could have saved you some cash, or at least spent it on a battery charger instead.
Anyway, did the bike immediately refuse to start on the brand new battery? If so, it's not the battery.
Or did you ride it around until the battery went flat, and then it refused to start ?
Steve
i replaced the battery becuase when it read 12.2 volts when sitting, but when i hit the starter it went down to about 5.
It refused to start with new battery, half turned over then nothing.
unrealone
24th July 2009, 10:05
Solenoid starter I reckon? Had it happen to an '89 ZXR250.
Why don't you try push starting it? That way you can eliminate if its the starter motor/solenoid or something in the engine. Have you checked if there is any petrol in there? Kill switch off?
Jonno.
24th July 2009, 10:11
Did you charge your new battery before you used it?
The Pastor
24th July 2009, 10:23
Why don't you try push starting it? That way you can eliminate if its the starter motor/solenoid or something in the engine. Have you checked if there is any petrol in there? Kill switch off?
didn't want to push start or jump start, would it push start is the solenoid was kaput?
Did you charge your new battery before you used it?
yes the shop charged it up for me.
didn't want to push start or jump start, would it push start is the solenoid was kaput?
Stop being a pussy and push start it. Yes if solenoid/starter motor is blown it will still push start.
The Pastor
24th July 2009, 10:41
I tried to bump start but it didnt sound too healthy, will give it ago when i get home from work
The Pastor
24th July 2009, 11:16
Bump !
Indiana_Jones
24th July 2009, 12:29
Bump !
Start?
-Indy
The Pastor
24th July 2009, 13:03
anyone want to add to this?
bungbung
24th July 2009, 13:05
I tried to bump start but it didnt sound too healthy, will give it ago when i get home from work
Can you elaborate on "didn't sound to healthy"
Does that mean it started, but ran rough
or, you didn't like the noise it made while bump-starting, so stopped trying
The Pastor
24th July 2009, 13:06
Can you elaborate on "didn't sound to healthy"
Does that mean it started, but ran rough
or, you didn't like the noise it made while bump-starting, so stopped trying
yeah it made a bad noise, but i think if the battery is stufffed it wont bump start? so maybe a bump start with a new battery might fix it?
The Pastor
24th July 2009, 13:07
should be worth a note, that the bike has not been run, at all.
CookMySock
24th July 2009, 13:14
I think you need someone to help you with that.
Steve
imdying
24th July 2009, 13:21
12.2 volts is pretty sad for a battery mate :(
The Pastor
24th July 2009, 13:40
12.2 volts is pretty sad for a battery mate :(
thats why i replaced it...
mnkyboy
24th July 2009, 13:47
I'm free this arvo - dont mind looking at it for ya
The Pastor
24th July 2009, 13:52
sweet PM sent
The Pastor
24th July 2009, 17:26
turns out it was a hydrolock.... kinda werid.
not running 100% either.
Icemaestro
24th July 2009, 17:56
Whats a hydrolock?
ducatilover
24th July 2009, 20:22
turns out it was a hydrolock.... kinda werid.
not running 100% either. Fuck dude, is it running though? Check compression now. Hydrolock can be rather, um bad....If one cyl or more is down majorly it may have shat a rod. Now, you must find why it hydrolocked....
Whats a hydrolock? When the piston[s] cannot travel due to the combustion chamber being full of fluid. The may also mean valve timing is out, the cbr has a fair amount of scavenging going on, not good especially with gear driven cams.
Hiflyer
24th July 2009, 20:45
wtf is it with honda and shitty gear driven cams? :2guns:
although I can't really talk cos I have a hyo and they have shitty engines ful-stop... no matter what you say DB/Steve
imdying
24th July 2009, 21:00
thats why i replaced it...Yup, you just seemed unamused that it didn't fix it, I just wanted to reassure you that it wasn't money wasted.
turns out it was a hydrolock.... kinda werid.
not running 100% either.Uh oh, bent a rod? Compression check is a good place to start.
ducatilover
24th July 2009, 21:01
wtf is it with honda and shitty gear driven cams? :2guns:
although I can't really talk cos I have a hyo and they have shitty engines ful-stop... no matter what you say DB/Steve
What is wrong with gear driven cams? Strong, no maintenance, cool noise, no stretch like a chain or belt. Easy to replace if the ever go wrong, which never happens. You got the hyo part right, not a very stressed bitch and they still fuck out:shit:
ducatilover
24th July 2009, 21:02
Yup, you just seemed unamused that it didn't fix it, I just wanted to reassure you that it wasn't money wasted.
Uh oh, bent a rod? Compression check is a good place to start.
I said it first:innocent:
Hiflyer
24th July 2009, 21:24
What is wrong with gear driven cams? Strong, no maintenance, cool noise, no stretch like a chain or belt. Easy to replace if the ever go wrong, which never happens. You got the hyo part right, not a very stressed bitch and they still fuck out:shit:
Its just that a guy at work ahd to replace his "gears" or wtf ever they are on his old harley (I guess the problems not the gear driven cams then :shutup:) a couple of times so i have only heard bad things about them
ducatilover
24th July 2009, 21:27
Its just that a guy at work ahd to replace his "gears" or wtf ever they are on his old harley (I guess the problems not the gear driven cams then :shutup:) a couple of times so i have only heard bad things about them
The harleys use a completely different system to the hondas. I would go as far as thinking harley would use a chain. Being a buried in the bottom cam motor and poorly built by pissed americans may have done something to the quality:innocent: I have never heard of a problem with honda gear driven cams. :Punk:
Squiggles
24th July 2009, 22:13
An oil change may be a good idea too if you've had alot of gas sitting in there
Hiflyer
24th July 2009, 22:31
The harleys use a completely different system to the hondas. I would go as far as thinking harley would use a chain. Being a buried in the bottom cam motor and poorly built by pissed americans may have done something to the quality:innocent: I have never heard of a problem with honda gear driven cams. :Punk:
yea harleys use a chain now but on their old models they used gear driven cams, I guess they saw the light,
lets hope hyosung does the same
ducatilover
24th July 2009, 22:36
yea harleys use a chain now but on their old models they used gear driven cams, I guess they saw the light,
lets hope hyosung does the same
Nothing wrong with gears :sunny: Lets hope hyosung buys a honda twin and builds that, the vt250f2 motor was good, but it needed the spada cam chain tensioner, less chain slap.
The Pastor
25th July 2009, 08:16
its running a bit better now, but yes i'll be doing the oil and valves soon, also a compression test, and a clutch change.
ducatilover
25th July 2009, 13:09
its running a bit better now, but yes i'll be doing the oil and valves soon, also a compression test, and a clutch change.
I hope it hasn't done any damage, that would suck big time dude:mellow:
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