Hitcher
30th March 2005, 21:28
Monday 14 March: Te Anau, Mossburn, Athol, Queenstown, Glenorchy, Arrowtown, Cromwell, Wanaka.
Fog. This is what we awoke to in Te Anau. A stationary high-pressure system had resulted in a couple of nice fine days but the associated calmness clagged up the Te Anau basin on this particular morning something chronic. It took us about halfway to Mossburn to ride out of it but the result was stunning: A perfectly clear, calm, bright sunlit day awaited us. The sharpness of the light gave perfect visibility in all directions.
Regular TXT message traffic with Lynda Blair, who was about a day or so ahead of us, had provided some useful insights. Today’s tip was to sample the scones at the Lazybones Tearooms at Athol, allegedly the best in the world, according to Lynda. So scones at Athol it was. We had their “biker breakfast” first, which was pretty darned good. But the sultana scones certainly were the piece de resistance. As good as mum used to make and fine examples of the Great New Zealand Scone. Highly recommended.
An on to Queenstown. I love the ride up from the south. Long straight roads that end at Kingston, where the road runs around the edge of Lake Wakatipu almost all the way to Frankton. Nice corners and stunning views up the lake. A “lite” version of the next treat – the Glenorchy road. Three trips to the South Island now on bikes and we’ve done this 45km stretch of no-exit road on each occasion. I doubt I could ever tire of it. Apart from a couple of potholes that need patching, there is little I would do to this road to improve it for a motorcyclist. A “must do” road for all southern riders.
Queenstown has a certain charm in a sort of packed-with-tourists-and-campervans way. It could do no wrong on this most perfect of weather days. We bought Velcro and coffee, watched the paraponters float down from above the gondola, and then rode on to Arrowtown. The day was getting hotter by the minute. I had long since removed my Teknic trousers and replaced them with Draggins and had all of my jacket vents unzipped. All helmet vents open, Dririder Drimesh gloves on and still cooking. The ST's mission control centre said it was 25 degrees.
There were a few trees starting to colour up for autumn but we were about two weeks too early for a decent display.
We chose the Kawarau Gorge road. Another great ride on a bike. I looked carefully for a spot where a bunch of soldiers could have lost control of a Unimog and plunged to their deaths but am none the wiser. The poor buggers must have got something really wrong, because this in no way could be described as a risky or dangerous road – particularly in summer, when there is no risk of frost.
And on we rode to Wanaka. The temperature peaked at about 26 degrees and was still very balmy when we were seeking out accommodation at about 6:00pm.
Another great dinner, another great sunset, and another great day on the road amongst stunning scenery.
Tuesday 15 March: Wanaka, Tarras, Omarama, Fairlie, Geraldine, Ashburton.
Another perfect day dawned. This was starting to get a bit boring…
Our breakfast stop today was at Tarras, another great South Island café here that does a “biker’s breakfast” and a milky coffee. We basked in the sun and marvelled at the surrounding countryside.
Then if was off over the Lindis Pass and on to Omarama. Eyes were carefully peeled for Technicolor Holdens and none were seen. Fortunately, as there is something about the gravity in these parts that causes motorcycles to accelerate as they approach Omarama.
The ride up the McKenzie basin was immeasurably more pleasurable than a week ago when we encountered gale-force crosswinds. While the day was clear, there was a heavy haze on the alps which deterred us from riding up to the Hermitage. We did, however, take in the salmon farm road south of Tekapo.
Lunch was at Fairlie’s Old Library restaurant. A great lunch here in their nice outdoor courtyard. A great local cider washed this down just nicely.
A great ride was had through to Geraldine, apart from having to overtake a few tour buses and an Army Unimog towing a trailer with a Unimog on it. Go figure.
We stopped for petrol at Geraldine and got talking with a lone biker who rode in from the north while we were there. Chatty sort. Mrs H noticed he had a bike called “Roxanne”. Penny drops. Introductions all round. Great to catch up with Rider In Black, albeit briefly.
And then on to Ashburton. For a change we took the Rangitata Island route – the shortest way back to SH1. Not a clever idea, as the traffic once again was chronic.
Again we were back in Ashburton for another stay with Mrs H’s folks.
Wednesday 16 March: No ride day.
[Photos: No photo at Queenstown would be complete without the Earnslaw; at the lookout on the road to Glenorchy; Breakfast at Tarras; The uncapitalised Kurow sign at Omarama...]
Fog. This is what we awoke to in Te Anau. A stationary high-pressure system had resulted in a couple of nice fine days but the associated calmness clagged up the Te Anau basin on this particular morning something chronic. It took us about halfway to Mossburn to ride out of it but the result was stunning: A perfectly clear, calm, bright sunlit day awaited us. The sharpness of the light gave perfect visibility in all directions.
Regular TXT message traffic with Lynda Blair, who was about a day or so ahead of us, had provided some useful insights. Today’s tip was to sample the scones at the Lazybones Tearooms at Athol, allegedly the best in the world, according to Lynda. So scones at Athol it was. We had their “biker breakfast” first, which was pretty darned good. But the sultana scones certainly were the piece de resistance. As good as mum used to make and fine examples of the Great New Zealand Scone. Highly recommended.
An on to Queenstown. I love the ride up from the south. Long straight roads that end at Kingston, where the road runs around the edge of Lake Wakatipu almost all the way to Frankton. Nice corners and stunning views up the lake. A “lite” version of the next treat – the Glenorchy road. Three trips to the South Island now on bikes and we’ve done this 45km stretch of no-exit road on each occasion. I doubt I could ever tire of it. Apart from a couple of potholes that need patching, there is little I would do to this road to improve it for a motorcyclist. A “must do” road for all southern riders.
Queenstown has a certain charm in a sort of packed-with-tourists-and-campervans way. It could do no wrong on this most perfect of weather days. We bought Velcro and coffee, watched the paraponters float down from above the gondola, and then rode on to Arrowtown. The day was getting hotter by the minute. I had long since removed my Teknic trousers and replaced them with Draggins and had all of my jacket vents unzipped. All helmet vents open, Dririder Drimesh gloves on and still cooking. The ST's mission control centre said it was 25 degrees.
There were a few trees starting to colour up for autumn but we were about two weeks too early for a decent display.
We chose the Kawarau Gorge road. Another great ride on a bike. I looked carefully for a spot where a bunch of soldiers could have lost control of a Unimog and plunged to their deaths but am none the wiser. The poor buggers must have got something really wrong, because this in no way could be described as a risky or dangerous road – particularly in summer, when there is no risk of frost.
And on we rode to Wanaka. The temperature peaked at about 26 degrees and was still very balmy when we were seeking out accommodation at about 6:00pm.
Another great dinner, another great sunset, and another great day on the road amongst stunning scenery.
Tuesday 15 March: Wanaka, Tarras, Omarama, Fairlie, Geraldine, Ashburton.
Another perfect day dawned. This was starting to get a bit boring…
Our breakfast stop today was at Tarras, another great South Island café here that does a “biker’s breakfast” and a milky coffee. We basked in the sun and marvelled at the surrounding countryside.
Then if was off over the Lindis Pass and on to Omarama. Eyes were carefully peeled for Technicolor Holdens and none were seen. Fortunately, as there is something about the gravity in these parts that causes motorcycles to accelerate as they approach Omarama.
The ride up the McKenzie basin was immeasurably more pleasurable than a week ago when we encountered gale-force crosswinds. While the day was clear, there was a heavy haze on the alps which deterred us from riding up to the Hermitage. We did, however, take in the salmon farm road south of Tekapo.
Lunch was at Fairlie’s Old Library restaurant. A great lunch here in their nice outdoor courtyard. A great local cider washed this down just nicely.
A great ride was had through to Geraldine, apart from having to overtake a few tour buses and an Army Unimog towing a trailer with a Unimog on it. Go figure.
We stopped for petrol at Geraldine and got talking with a lone biker who rode in from the north while we were there. Chatty sort. Mrs H noticed he had a bike called “Roxanne”. Penny drops. Introductions all round. Great to catch up with Rider In Black, albeit briefly.
And then on to Ashburton. For a change we took the Rangitata Island route – the shortest way back to SH1. Not a clever idea, as the traffic once again was chronic.
Again we were back in Ashburton for another stay with Mrs H’s folks.
Wednesday 16 March: No ride day.
[Photos: No photo at Queenstown would be complete without the Earnslaw; at the lookout on the road to Glenorchy; Breakfast at Tarras; The uncapitalised Kurow sign at Omarama...]