Oxford Heated Grips - Need them re-wired

[outlawtorn]

Hello all,

I got Oxford heated grips on my M50 (No jokes please, my hands are super-sensitive to cold) and they were professionally installed at Colemans Suzuki. When they were installed they wired the grips directly to the battery, so when I climb on and off the bike I have to manually turn the grips on/off. This has proven to be a fundamental pain in the ass, because when I do forget to turn them off they drain the battery completely and a jump start is required or a battery recharge.

Can someone please let me know if it is possible to re-wire the grips so that they go through the ignition switch on the bike? I remember Colemans telling me it wasn't possible but I don't remember the reason.

Based on the advice I get here I will attempting to re-wire the grips on Sunday to switch on and off with the ignition.

Cheers
John

[slofox]

Try this (http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/relay.php) idea...worked a treat for me...

[Nasty]

I have mine rewired through to operate at the same time as the ignition switch was on. So yes possible ... cheap no.

[slofox]

I have mine rewired through to operate at the same time as the ignition switch was on. So yes possible ... cheap no.

The distribution block idea in my first post is quite easy to do and need cost only a few dollars....if I can do it, anyone can...:drool:

[Hitcher]

Recent Oxford grip models are designed to be wired direct to the battery because they need 13V to run. They also have a cut out so that they turn off at 11.5V, so if they are working as they should it's impossible for them to run the battery flat. I have a set on the Shiver, and that feature seems to work well.

[Taz]

Or just find a keyed source wire and tap into that. Easy

[CookMySock]

If you have a headlight relay just hook them up to that.

Steve

[p.dath]

How about this. By a cheap mercury switch from Dick Smith, and install it inline so that the grips only come on if the bike is vertical, and turn off when the bike is on its side stand.

[Owl]

Recent Oxford grip models are designed to be wired direct to the battery because they need 13V to run. They also have a cut out so that they turn off at 11.5V, so if they are working as they should it's impossible for them to run the battery flat. I have a set on the Shiver, and that feature seems to work well.

Yeah but can you start your bike with 11.5V? I can't and need at least 12.6V to crank the triple!

In saying that, I have my grips wired directly to the battery.:rolleyes:

[PrincessBandit]

If you have a headlight relay just hook them up to that.

Steve

Does your light come on automatically, meaning that they'd start up with the light coming on; or do you need to turn your light on manually (which would mean still having to turn something on/off)?

[bastardsquad]

The distribution block idea in my first post is quite easy to do and need cost only a few dollars....if I can do it, anyone can...:drool:

-thats a great link and its easy as, i've used it myself , works a treat and cheap to do...

[Squiggles]

Fit a relay, cheap and easy to do... tap into something close to the battery like your tail light to activate the relay. Fit a fuse while you're at it if it doesnt already have one

[CookMySock]

Does your light come on automatically, meaning that they'd start up with the light coming on; or do you need to turn your light on manually (which would mean still having to turn something on/off)?Key on, engine start - lights come one automagically, along with the grips. The only time I think about grips power is if they are getting too warm and then I pull their plug (requires two hands - pull over.) It's easier to unzip my jacket a bit than turning the grips off.

In the summer they stay unplugged unless I am out at night and it starts getting a little nippy, then again, pull over - plug in, and in 20 seconds all is one with the world again.. and it's impossible to leave them turned on.

Steve

[Henk]

I run mine through a relay that is activated by the tail light. Have done this on 4 bikes so far and never had a problem.

[outlawtorn]

Try this (http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/relay.php) idea...worked a treat for me...

Cheers so much for that mate, I'm going to be doing that on Sunday and I will let you know how it goes, looks as easy as.

Cheers everyone for their input, much appreciated.

Cheers
John

[vifferman]

Does your light come on automatically, meaning that they'd start up with the light coming on; or do you need to turn your light on manually (which would mean still having to turn something on/off)?
The Oxford ones I've got need to be turned on, regardless of how/where they're hooked up. Mine are hooked up to my accessory fusebox, which is connected to the battery via a relay, so NOTHING works unless the key is on. The only accessory I've got that's not connected to the fusebox is the cigarette lighter plug, as I figured I might sometimes need that permanently on.
Personally, I think that while the Oxfords being set up to be wired directly to the battery makes them easy to install, it's also a dumb idea. If they supplied them with a built-in relay and instructions on how/what to connect this up to, it would be more betterer.

Outlawtorn: it's not hard to set your grips up with a relay. Buy one from Supercrap, Repco or an autoelectrician. A 10-amp one would probably do, but it won't hurt if you go bigger. You'll also need some female spade connectors, and some wire.

Disconnect one of the battery terminals - the earth (negative is best).
On the positive wire for the heated grips, cut it between the grips and the fuse, so that it has the ring terminal, the fuse, and a few inches of wire. Bare each end where you've cut it, and put a spade connector on both.
The one connected to the ring terminal and fuse should be plugged into the 'Power In' terminal on the relay (30), the other one into the power terminal (87).
Make another wire with a spade connector on one end, and plug this onto the switched terminal of the relay (86). Bare the other end, and connect it to something that is only 'live' when the key's on. Anything handy to the battery will do - the power to the taillight is a good choice.
To connect this, you're going to need to bare some wire, or use a piggyback spade connector of the right gender, or one of those horrible blue connectors that cut into a wire.
The last terminal of the relay (85) needs to be grounded to the frame or negative terminal of the battery, using another length of wire and another female spade connector.

The relay itself can be mounted anywhere convenient - even zip tied to something under the seat. The relays themselves are usually water-resistant, but the terminals are not, and you don't want them shorting on anything. I covered my whole relay and the terminals with a short length of bicycle innertube.

If you need more info, PM me.

[scracha]

I've had a couple and wire them up to the lights, that way they only come on when the engine is running. Make sure you use an inline fuse. They should have their own switch too so you can switch em off and not get toasty hands in summer.

[davebullet]

USe the canyonchasers link posted by slofox and buy a 12v automotive relay from dick smith (narva from memory - only about $7) - some wire and ring terminals for battery connection (and a terminal strip / block) and you are done. We run our hotgrips this way on both of our bikes - no issues.

[outlawtorn]

Hi guys, just wanted to let everyone know that the re-wiring went great. Everything was smooth and easy and me and my mate did a much better job than the 'professional' installation done at Colemans. The only hickup we encountered was the jumper required on the distribution block, which I forgot to buy but we created our own loops which did the job fine. All the controls are nicely tucked away now, wiring is a dam site neater and the bike is looking a lot better as a result. Thanks again slofox for the link and to everyone else for their advice.

Cheers
John

[slofox]

... but we created our own loops which did the job fine.

I had to do the same thing - none of the shops I visited knew what I was talking about when I asked for a jumper......

Good to hear it all went well. Enjoy your warm hands!

[CookMySock]

my mate did a much better job than the 'professional' installation done at Colemans.This is no slight on colemans, or any bike shop who has to work to a quote or a schedule.

Us back-yarders can sit down with the crimp tool and the heatshrink for two hours and make a perfect job that you could eat off, as we do it for the art and zen of it, not money. Bike shops have harsher realities, unless you have a fat wad of cash and directly specify you want it gold plated.

Steve

[outlawtorn]

This is no slight on colemans, or any bike shop who has to work to a quote or a schedule.

Us back-yarders can sit down with the crimp tool and the heatshrink for two hours and make a perfect job that you could eat off, as we do it for the art and zen of it, not money. Bike shops have harsher realities, unless you have a fat wad of cash and directly specify you want it gold plated.

Steve

I definitely agree there, I am not taking the piss out of Colemans, but I now know for future reference that I can do a more thorough job then they can. I'll always be loyal to Colemans, even when they charge me close of $400 for a service....farking expensive, but hey.

[sinned]

I have just had Oxford heated grips fitted and they worked a treat. However, I left them on over night and the battery didn't have enough grunt to start the bike. Jumper to the car battery was required.

So this raises the question of how effective the Oxford 11.5 volt turn off point is for the grips. Sure the battery had enough juice left to light every thing up but not to crank the motor.

So I have fitted a relay which is activated from the tail light circuit. The relay now feeds the grips and radar detector.

The on and heat lamps on the Oxford controller are not bright enough to be seen in sunlight - that is my excuse for leaving the grips on. However, there is a risk that someone could flick the grips on when the bike is parked up and then at the end of the day it won't start.

Try this (http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/relay.php) idea...worked a treat for me...
Yep more of less what I did with push on lugs directly onto the relay. The only substantial bit of kit is a tiny relay.


Recent Oxford grip models are designed to be wired direct to the battery because they need 13V to run. They also have a cut out so that they turn off at 11.5V, so if they are working as they should it's impossible for them to run the battery flat. I have a set on the Shiver, and that feature seems to work well. Off limited value I suggest.


Yeah but can you start your bike with 11.5V? I can't and need at least 12.6V to crank the triple!

In saying that, I have my grips wired directly to the battery.:rolleyes: Easy to fix and possibly just enough room around the battery to fit the relay on the triple.

The relay I fitted is a Narva P/No 72386BL from Repco - cost $18.00. I had the automotive connectors and a bit of wire so it was a cheap fix.

[CookMySock]

When I was using the oxford controller, it would turn off in just a few minutes after the engine was stopped.

I destroyed controller after controller (probably from a stator fault to ground), so I threw it in the bin and wired the grips up directly.

My bars are solid, and conduct a lot of the heat away. On my comet, the bars are hollow and they get really hot. Too hot perhaps.

Steve

[ready4whatever]

put your switch right by your ignition key so theres no way you'll forget.

or have a push kill switch like the ones on bench grinders etc and put it on your seat so when your arse is on it it turns on

or have an extra long fin from your air cooled engine connected onto your bars so they warm up

[2wheeldrifter]

How about this. By a cheap mercury switch from Dick Smith, and install it inline so that the grips only come on if the bike is vertical, and turn off when the bike is on its side stand.

Good idea... so when he gets some decent lean angles on his M50 his grips will turn off.... then on..... then off.... then on....

Dont lean and dont ride roads with corners and you'l be sweet!:yes:

[outlawtorn]

Good idea... so when he gets some decent lean angles on his M50 his grips will turn off.... then on..... then off.... then on....

Dont lean and dont ride roads with corners and you'l be sweet!:yes:

Now that you mention it, that would be hilarious!!!!

[awayatc]

relay as has been said.....
direct wired to battery but only turns on when you turn on ignition....
couple of dollars and an hour or so of fiddling.....
No problem

[mouldy]

relay as has been said.....
direct wired to battery but only turns on when you turn on ignition....
couple of dollars and an hour or so of fiddling.....
No problem

You are correct , must be either wired to battery or go through a relay or you will toast the controller

[dipshit]

I am going to be running an accessory with a relay off the battery triggered from the taillight circuit.

However quite a few articles on doing this recommend running a diode off the switch + to protect circuitry from a spike....

"The coil creates a magnetic field which turns back on itself when power is removed, creating a power surge of little current but very high voltage. This can damage electronic devices in the circuit if left without this added safety device"

http://www.ripper1.com/tech/wiring.php

Is a diode a good idea or is the taillight/lights circuit enough to soak up a voltage spike before it reaches more sensitive electrical components on a modern GSXR?

[CookMySock]

Is a diode a good idea or is the taillight/lights circuit enough to soak up a voltage spike before it reaches more sensitive electrical components on a modern GSXR?It is always good practice to damp the relays' back EMF using a diode. It will cost you little or nothing, and there is no consequences from it, other than wiring the relay coil (with its diode) backwards and blowing the tail lamp circuit fuse.

You have everything to protect, nothing to lose, near zero cost, and no added complexity. Do it. Make sure the diode is mounted securely - preferably soldered securely inside the relay case. Mark pos and neg on the outside of the relay case.

Steve

[dipshit]

It is always good practice to damp the relays' back EMF using a diode.

Ok, that just leaves one question...

Is this 'Zener 1W 12V 1N4742/BZX85C12 (http://www.dse.co.nz/dse.shop/4ac86449030cbdd8273fc0a87f3b06e1/Product/View/Z3543)' diode from dick smith the right one to use for the job?

[hospitalfood]

ok. question for smart people.
at present i run no extra gadgets on the buell, but when i get some demerit points back i will be running my radar detector again.
i basically always run my headlights on high.

can i safely pull more power out of the system for heated grips without melting stuff like regulator/rectifier or whatever ?

not sure how many amps it generates

[dipshit]

can i safely pull more power out of the system for heated grips without melting stuff like regulator/rectifier or whatever ?

I don't know the technical answer to calculate such things, but things like this are reassuring...

http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/relay.php

"Also, most bikes generate far more electricity than the bike needs; enough to have the ability to run two heated vests and a set of heated grips without putting any undue strain on the electrical system. However, every bike is different and you should check to be sure your bike can handle the added electrical workload. We've yet to find any bike that did not have a strong enough alternator to handle heated grips. On almost all of the CanyonChasers bikes, we run heated grips, up to two heated vests, GPS devices, MP3 players and radar detectors – all at once – and have never had any problems. Mikey has even set up a way to charge camera and phone batteries and has never run into any problems."


And some radar detectors show battery voltage if it starts getting too low. (like if your alternator can't keep up)

[CookMySock]

@dipshit, no don't use a zener. Almost any othjer silicon diode will do. 1N4001 etc. edit: make sure you wire it the correct way around, so it does not conduct when the relay coil is energised. Test with a continuity light tester. If you get it wrong it will just blow the taillight circuit fuse - just swap the diode the other way around, or reverse the terminals on the relay.

@hospitalfood, yes you can. The more load you put on the entire electrical system, the less load there will be on the regulator. The stator is designed to run into a near short-circuit.

Steve

[Hawkeye]

The relay I got was from DS (P8035 - Raylex - 12vDC 30A - $7.99) .

I also purchased a pre wired block (P8036 - $4.68) which fits the connectors making it a much neater assembly. This has a thin red wire on 86, a thin white wire on 85, and much thicker wires (green 87, Black 30 , Blue 87a). Probably to handle the 30A hence the gauge of the wires.

Following the diagram, 86 is the ground and 85 is the 'live' that feeds the relay causing the switch to close the connections between the main power supply of 87 and 30 once 85 goes 'live' ie. turn on the ignition.

The relay has a spade in the centre for 87a. Does this need to be wired anywhere? Or do I just remove the blue wire? None of the explanations mention this connector.

As you can see from #6, the molded block makes it a nice neat setup.

[Coldrider]

Without seeing it is is probably the 'normally closed' contact of the switch.
All you need is the live to feed the coil, earth the other end of the coil, the common (of the switch) and the normally open contact (controlled side of the switch). Or the extra contact maybe a double pole switch. (not sure what the numbers are).

[slofox]

Anybody got a circuit diagram of how the diode would wire in?

Coz I ain't got one in my auxiliary distribution block circuit...so far so good...

[dipshit]

The relay has a spade in the centre for 87a. Does this need to be wired anywhere? Or do I just remove the blue wire? None of the explanations mention this connector.

No need to use 87a. You can lose the blue wire.

[dipshit]

Anybody got a circuit diagram of how the diode would wire in?.

Halfway down on this page...
http://www.ripper1.com/tech/wiring.php

However I'm not going to worry about adding a diode now. The relay i got already looks to have a resistor or diode between 85 and 86 for spike protection. (see pic of the wiring diagram on the relay cover and the resistor or diode beneath the spring running between 85 and 86) Anyways a voltage spike getting into my taillight circuit won't get any further than the off ignition switch. I was more concerned about spiking the ECM or something sensitive like that.

Have a look at page 12 and 13 in this...
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/hweb2.pdf

[dieseldave]

I don't think a diode is necessary unless it is recommended by the bike manufacturer. Usually fitted when some electronics is controlling the relay but in this case a simple switch so no need. May stop some sparking at the control switch terminals but in that case a capacitor would do the job too. A foil or polystyrene type about 10uF would help in that case.
In case it is a requirement the diode goes between 85 and 86. Firstly test these terminals (85,86) with a meter on Ohms to check that a diode isn't already fitted - sometimes they are. Swop the leads around to find out if the meter deflects only one way. If the same in both directions - no diode.
The diode say a 1N4007 has a white band around one end this would go to the positive (red) lead of the relay, the other end goes to the white lead.
The terminal 87a is the normally closed set and can be ignored. bend the end of the wire over and tape it.
Put the diode in a bit of sleeving to prevent shorting etc.

[CookMySock]

a capacitor would do the job too. A foil or polystyrene type about 10uF would help in that case. Be careful adding any sort of capacitor to any automotive electrical system. You can induce ALL SORTS of weirdo behaviour by adding such a thing.

Even adding a reverse diode to the coil will extend the release time of the relay considerably, making for strange happenings where timing was an issue. At least a diode behaves sanely compared to a capacitor.

Steve