Chain lube/chain wax?

[rapid van cleef]

I have a zx104 2004. what chain lube do people use with similar high performance bikes?

i know to clean the chain regularly with wd40 or similar and then lube the chain every 3 - 500 km. as a rule, i have always lubed my chain every time i fill up, or every other time.

i have only just bought this bike and have done 120km on it so far, so want the best 'low flick' chain lube i can get here in NZ

nothing worse than cleaning yer bike and runnig it for 10 moins to get the arse end and yer boots covered in crap

cheers all

[Metalor]

I hear WD-40 is a big no no as it strips the chain of all the lubricating stuff and is bad for the o-rings.

Kerosene is supposed to be good for the job. If you use a chain wax rather than an oil it will stick to the chain better. I use Maxima chain wax, does the job, not that i give a shit if it flicks everywhere though. Just means I've been riding the thing!

[rapid van cleef]

thanks for the reply ok, i havent actually ever used wd40 personally, ive always used a chain degreaser in the past, but have read a lot of kawasaki forum people saying they use wd40 just to clean the crap off their chain every 1000km or so.

i dont like the lube flicking everywhere........it also gets on your tyre......ive had that before and it nearly caused me to loose the back end when going round a roundabout, as the stuff was all over me tyre after about 5 kms. thats what you get for buying cheap shite. so whats the best chain lube available here in NZ?

i used to buy Mucoff in uk.

cheers

[NinjaBoy]

Maxima make a chain wax. I use Kerosene (cheap and effective) and a rag to clean the chain. WD40 isn't too good for the O-rings

[NZsarge]

Maxima chain wax is good, Spectro (wax) is also good but I noticed it does fling a little more crap than Maxima but only on the initial ride after lubing the chain, remember, wax your chain when it's hot after a ride.

[cs363]

We were talking about this a while back, and one theory is that technically you shouldn't have to lubricate a quality O ring chain at all, apart from a light amount to keep the O rings lubricated and the chain plates from rusting, as the lubricant is already in the chain sealed in by the O rngs.

With this in mind I thought I would try an experiment, so I've got a standard DID O ring chain fitted with new sprockets at the same time on the RF and all that is being done to maintain it is an occasional clean with kerosene ( using a Grunge Brush etc) a hose off and then a light spray with WD40.

So far it's done just over 5000km's and I've only adjusted the chain once, and there are no signs of undue wear.
Added benefit is no splooge all over the rear wheel and so on.

It's going to be interesting to see how this works out long term, but so far I'm quietly impressed as I didn't think it would work.

[YellowDog]

If you are lubing your chain every time you fill up, then you will be clogging the chain up and it will need a regular clean down.

Lubing it too much will also explain why you are getting the flicking problem.

I lube every 500km and use a wax (think it's Maxima). No problems at all.

AND a big +1 to Don't put WD40 your chain. You can see they bikes of the guys who have done that as they will be showing oxidation around the O-rings.

[shards]

I agree that you shouldn't need to regularly lube a quality O/X ring chain, just keep it clean and free of grit. I believe the grit (that is attracted by some "sticky" chain lubes) does more damage than good. I generally like to run my chains "dry" and just clean them from time to time. With this in mind I use Du Pont Teflon to keep the chain "sealed" between cleans. Read about it here.

http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/motorcycle-chain-lube/dupont-teflon-chain-lube.htm#comments

[ready4whatever]

hmm i use ya regular oil and a wipe down. havnt really thought about proper stuff

[modboy]

Having rode bicycles (semi-competitively) for many years (and still riding them) - I've approached the issue the same way.

Currently I'm using Shell Advanced Chain (only cos that's all the shop had last time I was in), I don't spray anything at the bike. Clean up with whatever you prefer, I've heard WD40 isn't as much an issue as it can be made out to be. The WD stands for water displacement, but if you prefer use a bit of kero on a rag, give the chain a good rub - to get any crap off.

Then use your chain lube - spray on the rag not on the chain and work in. Works better on a warm chain. With the more waxy lubes give it a bit of time to set in. Rub again getting as much excess off as you can. Sure, you will use a lot more lube - but it's worth the minimal extra cost and effort (in my opinion).

No flick! And a beautiful clean chain with no more lube on than is necessary.

one other thing. I get the feeling people obsess a bit about chain lubing. Certainly I think it's overkill to lube after every tank fill. Have a look and feel of your chain. If it's gritty mucky, filthy, dryish, any sign of surface rust, do the job. If it looks clean and seems nice and lubed up - your sweet.

[Madness]

Maxima Chain Wax +1

[imdying]

Maxima Chain Wax +1Yeah, I love it :yes:

Been using an aerosol Castrol chain oil on the minimotos (which have a no oring basic as you like chain) and it's been excellent. I think it'd fling on a road bike, but I'd definitely try it on an off roader.

[Owl]

Repsol have a fantastic lube, but it's hellishly expensive for such a small can and hard to find.

Motul also have a great lube that doesn't fling, but it does build up in the front sprocket cover and then drip eventually.

There are heaps of good ones on the market and the only two I'd recommend avoiding are Castrol chain lube and Rock oil chain wax. Both make a fucken mess!

[nodrog]

spectro chain wax. spray it on when the chain is hot, then leave it overnight to dry, no fling.

[MSTRS]

I use spray waxes. I (probably) do it at around the 1000km mark. Chainlife varies, but I seem to get around 50,000kms from an O-ring. Since this type has the lube sealed inside the rollers by the rubber O-rings, all that is necessary is to kept the exterior moving parts clean and lightly lubed. Do it when the chain is 'hot', because as it cools, it will suck the applied lube right in between the plates and keep the O-rings in good condition.

[rapid van cleef]

woah

tons of replies already

thanks guys

points taken

cheers

[Leyton]

Wickeds :) I too had the Lube flick problem, and I was lubing lightly. Then I tryed the spray on wax and OH Boy! Did it solve the problem.

So my method in this order now goes...

Kero
Warm chain
Chainlube (Lightly)
Wax over top

[crash harry]

Or you can get a scott oiler and forget about chain lube. Just check the oil level every now and then and give the chain a wipe when you wash the bike. Downside is a bit more fling on the side of the bike, but if you're commuting on the thing it's convenient.

[gmendoza1]

Is chain lube and chain wax the same? I'm thinking not at the moment. In this thread Ive read that Repsol has a good chain lube and that spectro has a good chain wax. I would like to get some chain lube and wax if its needed can anyone point me in the right direction please?

[p.dath]

Perhaps I learnt wrong, but the way I learnt was after your put the lube on the chain you wipe the excess lube off. There shouldn't really be anything left to flick off onto the back wheel. You only need a small amount of lube on the inside of the chain links.

Also I learnt to put it on a hot/warm chain (just after you finish riding). The solvent then dissolves quickly, leaving the grease/wax well applied to the chain.

Any chance the issue you have experienced is to do with the way it is applied?

[p.dath]

Is chain lube and chain wax the same? I'm thinking not at the moment. In this thread Ive read that Repsol has a good chain lube and that spectro has a good chain wax. I would like to get some chain lube and wax if its needed can anyone point me in the right direction please?

I was told wax is better for higher temperature environments (such as racing), but didn't stay on as well and needed to be applied more frequently. Lube breaks down more quickly at higher temperatures than wax - but for normal operating stays on the chain longer.

EDIT: I see your in Auckland. Go to CycleTreads and you'll see they have lube and wax next to each other on the shelf.

[p.dath]

Or you can get a scott oiler and forget about chain lube. Just check the oil level every now and then and give the chain a wipe when you wash the bike. Downside is a bit more fling on the side of the bike, but if you're commuting on the thing it's convenient.

I have a Scott Oiler - and have stopped using it in preference to using normal lube. I find the Scott Oiler tends to make a mess. Leave the bike parked somewhere for 3 or 4 hours and you tend to start getting spots of oil on the ground.

I've had lot of advice on how to adjust it - but the problem remains. So I presume it is a general issue. I guess it is not a problem it you don't mind leaving small oil drops wherever you park for the day. But I like my garage floor to be nice and clean and clear of oil stains ...

[george formby]

Perhaps I learnt wrong, but the way I learnt was after your put the lube on the chain you wipe the excess lube off. There shouldn't really be anything left to flick off onto the back wheel. You only need a small amount of lube on the inside of the chain links.

Also I learnt to put it on a hot/warm chain (just after you finish riding). The solvent then dissolves quickly, leaving the grease/wax well applied to the chain.

Any chance the issue you have experienced is to do with the way it is applied?

I use kero to clean & a sticky Spectro lube that I was given. The chain just gets a light spray on the rollers & I then use a scrunched up carrier bag to wipe off the excess. I get very little fling, the odd spot on the wheel rim.

[george formby]

Perhaps I learnt wrong, but the way I learnt was after your put the lube on the chain you wipe the excess lube off. There shouldn't really be anything left to flick off onto the back wheel. You only need a small amount of lube on the inside of the chain links.

Also I learnt to put it on a hot/warm chain (just after you finish riding). The solvent then dissolves quickly, leaving the grease/wax well applied to the chain.

Any chance the issue you have experienced is to do with the way it is applied?

I use kero to clean & a sticky Spectro lube that I was given. The chain just gets a light spray on the rollers & I then use a scrunched up carrier bag to wipe off the excess. I get very little fling, the odd spot on the wheel rim.

[Warr]

I have a Scott Oiler - and have stopped using it in preference to using normal lube. I find the Scott Oiler tends to make a mess. Leave the bike parked somewhere for 3 or 4 hours and you tend to start getting spots of oil on the ground.

I've had lot of advice on how to adjust it - but the problem remains. So I presume it is a general issue. I guess it is not a problem it you don't mind leaving small oil drops wherever you park for the day. But I like my garage floor to be nice and clean and clear of oil stains ...

Have a Scott Olier on my Hornet. Compared to anything else I am prepared to put up with some things.
But the over-oiling would be nice if I could fix. What were you recommended ??

[SMOKEU]

I clean the chain with kerosene every 1000km and lube it with Spectro chain wax every 500km. When I clean the chain with kerosene and a rag, should I leave it to dry before waxing it, or should I apply the wax immediately after cleaning the chain so it's still warm?

[Jonno.]

I was told wax is better for higher temperature environments (such as racing), but didn't stay on as well and needed to be applied more frequently. Lube breaks down more quickly at higher temperatures than wax - but for normal operating stays on the chain longer.


I think the main difference is that maxima doesn't fling off.

[p.dath]

I think the main difference is that maxima doesn't fling off.

Perhaps another reason why wax is used in racing applications, since the chain will be going so much faster.

This is outside of my area of knowledge, but I was told the wax breaks down quicker, which is why it needs to be applied more frequently than lube.

[Quasi]

I alwys use Maxima wax. After every ride, as soon as i get home, throw the beast onto paddock stand, spray on Maxima (chain still hot), let run a few revolutions of chain to ensure it gets fully intergrated, and its done. Always spray to the very front of the chain so it doesnt go anywhere near the tyre. i am religious about doing this every time i ride.

Am interested to see how long this new chain and sprockets go for.

[DesmoDAZ]

Maxima Wax 100% good

[p.dath]

I found this info for NOT using WD40 on your chain.

http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/motorcycle-chain-lube/

You'll have to skip near the bottom of the article where they post a picture of the damage done from regular WD40 use.

EDIT: This is a comment from the WD-40 company, where they say WD-40 can strip out the lubricant INSIDE of the O/X-ring in the chain.
http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/forum/showpost.php?p=97573&postcount=46
That doesn't sound good to me.

[sil3nt]

You read and worry too much p.dath.

[CookMySock]

You read and worry too much p.dath.Yeah bro, all this "truth" doesn't reeeeeely need extracting, categorising, classifying, and alphabetising. Hey its a good service you provide, and it doesn't bother me, and kudos for it, but you can take a break if you need to. ;)

Steve

[jasonzc]

IVe been using stuff called prolan lately.. smells like.. i donno .. farm.

But it was better than my old lube which went every where..

i heard good things bout prolan on this forum too. But my chain doesnt seem as 'wet' as when i was using my old stuff.. hmm

[Nutter34]

Wow, does no-one else use Bel-Ray?

Doesn't fling, specially if applied to a warm chain, straight after a ride.

Oh, on the technical side... The lube is there to be soaked inside the rollers. They are not protected or lubed by the contained o/x-rings. That's the way I see it anyway... Also, by having a coating on the rollers, the roller to sprocket interface should result in less wear over time, simply due to having some form of lubrication between the two surfaces. IMO, YMMV...