Whats a good oil, in your opinion ??

[Quasievil]

Hi, Im out to buy some oil today and am thinking about brands, I hear good things about some and bad things about some, so Im thinking I should ask the masses and see what gives.
Its for the GSXR400 which will be a track and racing bike, so needs to be reasonably good but should I go Synthetic ? semi Synthetic, mineral , Im not sure

Value your comments people

Quasi

[Motu]

Pam's - Extra Virgin...ah,she's a good un,our Pam...

[Dodgyiti]

I would like to say Mobil 1
But it is so expensive that I have never been able to afford to use it :whistle:

[bugjuice]

how about good ol' chip oil.. can't go wrong.. A mechanic in Manukau told me about it once.. don't know about anything else.

Just remember not to mix synthetic with mineral oil or things go weird..

[Quasievil]

Okay so its smart arse day, nice thanks drunken bums:drinknsin

[Sparky Bills]

I used to use Spectro Golden 10w40 in my gsxr400, But if your racing it, you could use that or Full Synthetic.
But in my opinion..
It ran great on the Golden Spectro.
Not too expensive either. $50 or so for a 4L.
Let us know how you get on.
Martin :Punk:

[Motu]

Silkolene Pro 4 - I used 10/40 in the XLV750,but have 15/50 for the XT.Ester based and able to handle extreme heat,is attracted to metal so protects cams on start up,that's why I use it in Honda's.I was always worried about how hot the XLV750 ran,but the XT runs even hotter,95 deg at the tank.Air cooled bikes will run hotter than water cooled,off road will run hotter than on road.

In all my years in the trade I have hardly seen any wear on any motor caused by failure of an oil - except in Honda's.Actualy all the dirt bikes of the 80s had massive top end wear...cams,rockers,cyl heads,it was cronic - the cure was synthetics and regular oil changes.

[Blackbird]

Horses for courses!

If you have a wet clutch, Mobil1 full synthetic car oil has an additive which can cause clutch slip with big horsepowers. The Mobil 1 4T Racing fully synthetic for bikes has that particular additive removed. I used fully synthetic for years in all our vehicles but to be honest, its largely unecessary. As a matter of interest, Honda don't recommend full synthetics and I now use Motul semi-synthetic.

Cheers

Geoff

[bugjuice]

If you have a wet clutch, Mobil1 full synthetic car oil has an additive which can cause clutch slip with big horsepowers.
?? why would you use car oil in a bike?? clutch problems etc.. bah, not even worth going thru a list. Didn't think anyone would use car oil..?

and as for big horsepowers, we're talkin about a GSXR400.. :lol:

[Quasievil]

?? why would you use car oil in a bike?? clutch problems etc.. bah, not even worth going thru a list. Didn't think anyone would use car oil..?

and as for big horsepowers, we're talkin about a GSXR400.. :lol:

HEY WERE TALKING 59 OF THE FINEST STALLIONS AROUND BUD

Did I just defen a Gixxer ? DAMN

[bugjuice]

HEY WERE TALKING 59 OF THE FINEST STALLIONS AROUND BUD

Did I just defen a Gixxer ? DAMN
I worry about you sometimes.. :sly:

[TonyB]

Been using Castrol R4 Superbike and then Mobil 1 Racing 4T. FZR's are supposed to use oil, but mine (43,000 k) won't use any untill the oil has been in there at least 5,000k. The only reason I only buy the synthetic stuff is because I can get it at trade prices. Lately I have been wondering if it would be better to use a semi synthetic and change it twice as often to avoid the inevitable buildup of crud in the oil...

[Motu]

?? why would you use car oil in a bike?? clutch problems etc.. bah, not even worth going thru a list. Didn't think anyone would use car oil..?

and as for big horsepowers, we're talkin about a GSXR400.. :lol:

I've used car or truck oils in my bikes all my life...I always wonder why the hell anyone would want to pay extra for the picture of a bike on the label.I only started using Silkolene because of the imagined heat issue.

[bugjuice]

I've used car or truck oils in my bikes all my life...I always wonder why the hell anyone would want to pay extra for the picture of a bike on the label.I only started using Silkolene because of the imagined heat issue.
thought most other oils would bugger up your clutch etc?

[John]

All I can say on the topic is I was running some 'silsumthingorrather' and just had a change to Motul 5100, best gear changes I've ever had, and a much much much less noisey engine (now I can hear the mean rotary type exhaust note at idle!)

Its made shortshifting easier and the engine is just unbelievibly quieter.

[Motoracer]

For high performance lube I'd sujest KY... Oh you mean for your bike? Ok well, go with anything that's semi-synthetic, 10W-40W. I personally used to use Spectro and now use Plutoline just cause I got hooked up with a deal. Either one is good stuff for race bikes really.

Buy the semi-synthetic and do more oil changes rather than buy full synthetic and not do as many oil changes. You'll find that full synthetic is actually twice as costly as the semi.

[Quasievil]

For high performance lube I'd sujest KY... Oh you mean for your bike? Ok well, go with anything that's semi-synthetic, 10W-40W. I personally used to use Spectro and now use Plutoline just cause I got hooked up with a deal. Either one is good stuff for race bikes really.

Buy the semi-synthetic and do more oil changes rather than buy full synthetic and not do as many oil changes. You'll find that full synthetic is actually twice as costly as the semi.

Thanks Sudeep, I will get this then at lunch time. I might even be fast this weekend, have some race tyres !!!!!

[TonyB]

For high performance lube I'd sujest KY...
But not the 'Warming Gel'. Goes all sticky.

[John]

But not the 'Warming Gel'. Goes all sticky.
Funny that.

[Zapf]

Mobil 1 is know to cause low oil pressure in cars.... perhaps it gets too thin at high temp. So run it at your own risk.

In my 2.5L turbo dynoed at 240kw rear wheels. I run Redline oil, they are on the same level as motul or even better. See it use it and you'll know why.

For a race bike, I would say run the thinnest oil possible, but your bike hasn't been a race bike all its life and hence if you run a thin oil it might be too light for it. Also the motor has had a few k's right?

So to balance $$$ and performance and oil thickness, I would say a simi syth with very regular oil change. (1000~2000km) or less? (as oil breaks down with heat)

if you run a race oil, they don't have the cleaning agent and ph balancers (engine fume desolved in oil increase makes acid) so you have to change it even more often... 500km~1000km and they cost loads as well.

as John hav said I have had good experience switching from Silkolene Pro 4 to Motul 5100 on the SV. Much smoother gear change and better / sweeter sounding / reving engine. So there is my 2c.

[Motoracer]

Thanks Sudeep, I will get this then at lunch time. I might even be fast this weekend, have some race tyres !!!!!

Yea man, we can ride together and I'll show my lines etc etc in the begining if you want. I'll be on the RG150 or the ZXR400 since 2smoker was kind enough to let me borrow his bike cause my bike is waiting on some parts coming from Japan. I think you'll do great, specially since you finally came to your sences and got yourself a Gixxer!

[Lou Girardin]

I don't know where you got that about Mobil1 Zapf. It's consistantly tested as having among the highest retained viscosity of all synths. The only better ones are full ester based oils like Motul 5100 or Delvac. If the oil pressure was low it would be from a mechanical cause.
It wasn't some unsubstantiated drivel from a car forum, was it?
I've used Mobil1 and it's variants in cars and bikes for 15 years without a problem. The internals of a 130,000km supercharged MX5 engine were like new when I opened it up..
I also wouldn't recommend using the thinnest viscosity oil either, eg. 10/30 oils are usually "energy conserving" which means they have anti-wear additives that will cause wet clutches to slip.
Use the best oil (preferrably full synth) you can afford and change at the makers recommended intervals and you'll be hunky-dory.

[Motu]

I agree with Lou,Mobil 1 is the benchmark for all other oils,if you want better move onto the esters like Silkolene and Motul.Unless you see it on the packet the only friction modified oils are those under 10/30,made for the US market where cars have to meet an economy standard.The best bang for your buck is heavy duty diesel oil,it's almost the same spec as bike oil...but has the much cheaper picture of a truck on the label,the motorcycle label costs 50% more to print.

The off road guys with the modern high performance 4 strokes change their oil after every ride! and use the best oil they can get...lessons have been learned the hard way.

[speedpro]

I have used Mobil 1 since before they put the price up to increase sales - something to do with perceptions regarding cost and quality. I'd leave it in all season which included all the Nth Is Nationals, all club rounds at Puke and Manfeild and all the drags at Meremere and Champion plus weekend road riding. All have been big old aircooled motors with roller cranks. This was before they had motorcycle specific versions. The one time I ran a semi-synthetic(Mobil) in the McIntosh I found some galling on the little end pins.

Last time I bought any I went to the gas station looking for some 4t and there wasn't any on the shelf so I asked them to have a look out the back. The guy came back with a pack and said I could have it for $20 as they were getting rid of the motorcycle oils. Turned out they had 4 4L packs @ $20ea. That was a very good day.

[Quasievil]

I got Motul 5100 because it sounds like Motu, nah not really I got it because its semi synthetic and was priced well at $40 for a 4l, a good deal.

I will chuck it in tonight and try out the new clutch

MR your on mate would love to see the lines thanks mate

I found out my GSXR400 is actually a GSXR400SP how good is that !!!!

[XTC]

I found out my GSXR400 is actually a GSXR400SP how good is that !!!!
What's the SP for.... :shifty:

Ok I'll start..... Slow Prick :lol:

[soundbeltfarm]

Been using Castrol R4 Superbike and then Mobil 1 Racing 4T. FZR's are supposed to use oil, but mine (43,000 k) won't use any untill the oil has been in there at least 5,000k. The only reason I only buy the synthetic stuff is because I can get it at trade prices. Lately I have been wondering if it would be better to use a semi synthetic and change it twice as often to avoid the inevitable buildup of crud in the oil...


in the two wheels mag.
castrol was asked about oils.
they themselves said for a new bike dont use synthetic as its too good and parts wont bed in very good.
they said buy the best you can afford but the key they reckon is change it regulary.
cheaper oil changed more often is better than paying big dollars for oil and not changing it regulary.

[Zapf]

I agree with Lou,Mobil 1 is the benchmark for all other oils,if you want better move onto the esters like Silkolene and Motul.Unless you see it on the packet the only friction modified oils are those under 10/30,made for the US market where cars have to meet an economy standard.The best bang for your buck is heavy duty diesel oil,it's almost the same spec as bike oil...but has the much cheaper picture of a truck on the label,the motorcycle label costs 50% more to print.

The off road guys with the modern high performance 4 strokes change their oil after every ride! and use the best oil they can get...lessons have been learned the hard way.

well.... its a common conclusion from guys on SDU that if you have a oil pressure sensor on your motor you'll read lower pressure if u are running Mobil 1. Mobil 1 might be good for small motors... but not big motors....

and I do get a smoother motor from running redline than Mobil 1...

[vifferman]

and I do get a smoother motor from running redline than Mobil 1...
I'm not doubting you, Zapf, but how can "smoother running" be quantified without resorting to subjective "feels like" statements?

F'rinstance, I've had a lot of people say that running full synthetic in their bikes that they get "more power" (by the Seat-O-The-Pants-ometer), and smoother, easier gear changing, but I'm still sceptical that any "better, faster, smoother, more powerful" claims aren't just wishful thinking. I know personally that changes I've made to jetting, exhausts, etc. are very hard to verify objectively. It's easiest when they result in noticeably crapper running. So, I'd like to try synthetic engine oil (did once, when it was relatively cheaper than it is now), but I'd need something more than anecdotal evidence to justify it to my wallet.

[Motu]

well.... its a common conclusion from guys on SDU that if you have a oil pressure sensor on your motor you'll read lower pressure if u are running Mobil 1. Mobil 1 might be good for small motors... but not big motors....

and I do get a smoother motor from running redline than Mobil 1...
I spend almost as much time on an oil specific site as I do on this forum....well,maybe a 1/10 of the time ok? These guys are totaly anal about oil and will talk forever about pro and cons of different oils,never seen any mention of low oil pressure for Mobil 1,it get's practicaly no bad rep at all.Anyway - pressure or flow...which would you rather have?...and why?...

[tl_tub]

I can’t give advice, but I used Mobil 4T in the 250 Katana and even with scored (enough to dig your nail into) cylinders I never had a problem. Never lost any oil, always had great compression, and was always happy with the operation of the clutch under high rev take-offs. It isn’t cheap, but I prefer the piece of mind that comes from using a top shelf product from a company that invests huge amounts of money in R&D. :2thumbsup

[oldfart]

Has anyone really noticed a real difference in oil brands etc. I've seen so much writen & stated by various sources over the years, but can anyone categorically state that so & so ran his kamakooza V1000 on Suds brand oil & the thing blew up after x km while so & so ran his on greasy spoon full synth oil & it did 10 guzillion kms.
Most of what I've seen written is from anyhing but independent sources. Over the years, (& I'm talking 35 here), I've used Duckhams, Castrol, Bel-Ray. Motul, Putoline etc & many various types & viscosities & never really noticed much difference. I'd venture that as long as the oils reputable brand, & your only using it for street, (even if you think your Mr Gung-ho street racer), then how often you change it & the filter probably has more importance. For racing ???

The reality is, non of us flippin know & anything anyone of us says is full of it

[Zapf]

vifferman, yep I agree. Its my 5 years of personal experience with my cage... so doesn't apply to bikes... and just to clearify... "Redline" is a brand of oil :) Redline oil (http://www.redlineoil.com/)

Motu, know what u mean. I have seen it too... and most people stay out of the topic... cause it goes on forever.... I rather have pressure & highest film strength for oil in my turbo motor. Cause I run either 15W50 for winter or 20w50 for summer, flow is not an issue when the engine is warmed up. The normal exhaust temp for that car is around 650 degrees, and when going hard can reach 800 degrees. So the need the pressure to get the oil into the turbo bearings..... :msn-wink:

[Rback]

I have used Mobil 1 in all my bikes and cages and have never had any problems. In our TQ we ran Mobil 1 and never had clutch slip. Plus the motor would get so hot that the exhaust would be red hot to the last baffle plate on the supertrap muffler, and when I took the rocker cover off there was no burnt oil/carbon on the head. Tried other oils but always went back to mobil 1.

[speedpro]

well.... its a common conclusion from guys on SDU that if you have a oil pressure sensor on your motor you'll read lower pressure if u are running Mobil 1. Mobil 1 might be good for small motors... but not big motors....
and I do get a smoother motor from running redline than Mobil 1...

The smallest motor I've ever used it in was 1100cc(ish). OK the McIntosh is only 1075cc but it's turbo'd and gets hot enough to make any oil on the outside of the engine smoke even after a cool down lap.

Gear shifting and clutch action on my bucket got noticeably better after I started using Motul Transoil, other than that I haven't ever noticed any differance in gearbox action with different oil.

Agree with comments regarding redline oil, mate uses a straight 60 racing oil in his drag car and has never had an oil related problem, apart from it escaping a bit now and then.

They're all good, just some are gooder than others.

[RiderInBlack]

Use ether Castrol 4T (minerial) or GPS (syn) depending on my mood:whocares: but ownly use oil made for a 4stroke bike & change with filter every 5000Km - 6000Km. Only time will tell if I'm doing the right thing.

[John]

Use ether Castrol 4T (minerial) or GPS (syn) depending on my mood:whocares: but ownly use oil made for a 4stroke bike & change with filter every 5000Km - 6000Km. Only time will tell if I'm doing the right thing.
Yea mate, that 4t Active stuff is pretty good - I was running it in the ZZR no problems, go steal some motul 5100 when you feel like being rich - and see if you notice the difference very well.