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pzkpfw
4th September 2009, 15:26
Hi,

Planning to do an oil + filter change on the weekend.

I've just noticed my manual says to use a proper wrench to put the new filter on, as apparently I won't be able to achieve the proper torque by hand.

Somehow I'm surprised by that. Should I be off to buy an oil filter wrench?

Cheers,

p.dath
4th September 2009, 15:30
If you already own a torque wrench then the oil filter attachment doesn't cost much. Plus it makes it easier taking off the old oil filter.

pzkpfw
4th September 2009, 16:24
"Oil filter attachment"?

Didn't even know there was such a thing!

p.dath
4th September 2009, 16:26
In my case I went into Cycletreads in Takapuna Auckland. I already have a torque wrench.

They sold me an attachment that goes on the end of the torque wrench (a socket style attachment), that then goes on the oil filter.

I use the torque wrench to remove and put back the oil filter.

pzkpfw
4th September 2009, 16:31
Awesome.

Will warm up the engine before the change, with a quick pootle somewhere to buy one.

Thanks,

YellowDog
4th September 2009, 16:38
I have always, always, always done it by hand.

Bugger to get off though (without shitting your pants), so a wrench attachment may well be a good idea.

ManDownUnder
4th September 2009, 16:43
Bugger to get off though (without shitting your pants), so a wrench attachment may well be a good idea.

Hammer a big screwdriver right through the old fucker and it becomes a t wrench, and you take it off.... (assuming there's anough room to swing the screwdriver right round...)

Put 'em on by hand. Lube the o-ring with motoroil, up till it touches then another 3/4 turn

The Pastor
4th September 2009, 16:45
do it up just tight enough - dont put mega force into it, then over the next few days check for leaks, if it leaks or weeps a bit, nip it up a touch more.

Remeber you have to undo it 5000kms later

Owl
4th September 2009, 17:02
I have always, always, always done it by hand.

Bugger to get off though (without shitting your pants), so a wrench attachment may well be a good idea.

I bought my filter tool off Kerry at Triplefourensics. I think it was about $15 or so and very handy.

kerry@triplefourensics.co.nz

Pussy
4th September 2009, 17:36
Put 'em on by hand. Lube the o-ring with motoroil, up till it touches then another 3/4 turn
Suzuki ones are meant to be done up 2 full turns after the "O" ring contacts

Madness
4th September 2009, 17:50
Don't waste yer money on a torque wrench if you're only gonna use it for the oil filter. Cheap torque wrenches are useful as a guide in some applications but when you have a "soft joint" such as that caused by the o-ring they're often a waste of time. The compression of the o-ring inteferes with the torque in the mechanical joint, for example you can tighten to the required reading, then leave the o-ring to settle for a while and the torque will then decrease. The application of oil (as you should) to the o-ring in itself doesn't assist a torque wrench's accuracy either. Similar problems occur with surface coatings on fasteners, such as hot-dip galvanised bolts, the galv tends to be thicker on one side of a fastener and tolerances vary widely.

Trust you're hand, tight but not too tight. :niceone: Oil filter wrenches can be handy but I'd only use one in bad access applications (fucking cages!).

johan
4th September 2009, 18:26
Tighten by hand, safety wire with hose clamp. Done.

Marknz
4th September 2009, 18:36
Suzuki ones are meant to be done up 2 full turns after the "O" ring contacts

Shit! That's good to know :niceone:

pzkpfw
4th September 2009, 18:44
Just out of interest - here's the bit I was quoting from the manual.

Owl
4th September 2009, 18:52
Just out of interest - here's the bit I was quoting from the manual.

Shit that's tight.:shit: Mine is a mere 11NM or 97lb/in.

Chooky
4th September 2009, 19:18
After replacing the filter, run it and check for leaks...:yes:

AllanB
4th September 2009, 19:25
As tight as you can by hand is fine, I bet that's all the Suzuki workshops do too. Oil filters are like vagina's, best well lubed and tight, but not too tight .........

CookMySock
4th September 2009, 19:29
I have always, always, always done it by hand.
Ditto. I've never had a filter leak or fail in any way whatsoever. I always need a strap wrench to remove them.

You don't need to run the engine before changing oil. That only loads the galleries with oil and it takes ages to drip down. Just dump the oil and leave the tray under for half an hour.

Theres sometimes a strainer that is worth checking now and then. I pulled the strainer on my bike after 20,000km (from new) and it was spotless.


Steve

The Stranger
4th September 2009, 19:44
Suzuki ones are meant to be done up 2 full turns after the "O" ring contacts

Hmm, it says that somewhere?
Most of the filters have a 2.5-3mm thread pitch and 2-3mm of O ring protruding below the filter body.
Oh well, good luck with that.

duckonin
4th September 2009, 19:53
Suzuki ones are meant to be done up 2 full turns after the "O" ring contacts

Yep you are 100% correct but after 5000k's try and get the buggar off..:whistle:

Only snig mine up to firm now, certainly not the Suzuki way, they tighten a mite by them selves anyway..

AllanB
4th September 2009, 20:33
A oil filter strap is about $10-$15 from SuperCheap and the likes - makes the removal of a tight one very easy ;)

Pussy
4th September 2009, 20:42
Yep you are 100% correct but after 5000k's try and get the buggar off..:whistle:

Only snig mine up to firm now, certainly not the Suzuki way, they tighten a mite by them selves anyway..

I've got the proper tool to fit/remove Suzuki oil filters... and it's a piece of piss! :niceone:

dipshit
6th September 2009, 11:20
Hmm, it says that somewhere?


Only in the owner's manual and workshop manual.