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View Full Version : Lining a garage. Best way to go?



Molly
13th September 2009, 14:54
My new Versatile garage is up at last so I now want to line it. Was thinking of 6mm ply. It's got 100mm spacing between the uprights and the're 2400 high. Garage is 7x6.

Any thoughts? Also, where's cheapest for ply in Christchurch? Anybody any ideas?

Thanks.

Ocean1
13th September 2009, 15:12
My new Versatile garage is up at last so I now want to line it. Was thinking of 6mm ply. It's got 100mm spacing between the uprights and the're 2400 high. Garage is 7x6.

Any thoughts? Also, where's cheapest for ply in Christchurch? Anybody any ideas?

Thanks.

100mm spacing? Not, say 1000mm?

Ply will be 1220 x 2440, good for height but a 20% loss on width. unless... you've got dwangs at 1200 high?

One of the advantages of ply is that it's strong enough to take most loads from all of the crap you're now going to hang all over your new cave. Not 6mm though, you want 9mm or even 12mm construction ply. And a bucket of white acrylic paint.

yungatart
13th September 2009, 15:25
We went the real budget way, and used cover sheets of ply...they had some marks on them, but a lick of paint and nobody is any the wiser.
Best of all, i t was free!

vifferman
13th September 2009, 15:35
If/When/if? I fix the leaks in my gargre, the wife wants it lined in strandboard, like her sister's gargre. That or ply - whatever's cheapest. Makes hanging stuff on it easier, although I suspect the new! Improved gargre will be lacking in shelves and cupboards groaning with accumulated shit.
It's all useful shit, I tellsya!
Like the rimu veneer carefully moved from Roundabouta nearly 10 years ago, because at $165 (then) a sheet, it's too good to turf. One day :rolleyes: I'll make summat from it...

Crisis management
13th September 2009, 16:10
Ply will be 1220 x 2440, good for height but a 20% loss on width. unless... you've got dwangs at 1200 high?


Wot he said...and...
Add extra vertical (studs) or horizontal (nogs/dwangs) framing to get the best out of your ply...10mm minimum and have a search on Tardme for cheap ply, there's usually lots around.
Nail it at 200mm centres on the edges and 300mm crs on intermediate framing with 40mm flat head nails (gib clouts are cheap & effective).
Keep the bottom edge 10mm off the floor, prevents damp spreading.

p.dath
13th September 2009, 16:15
Don't forget to biff some powerpoints in first! And a power point in the roof can be handy as well (especially when your trying to hang a light down to see something in an awkward place - also good if you want to put in an automatic garage door [need power point for motor]).

Laava
13th September 2009, 16:27
Don't forget to biff some powerpoints in first! And a power point in the roof can be handy as well (especially when your trying to hang a light down to see something in an awkward place - also good if you want to put in an automatic garage door [need power point for motor]).
Consider putting in batts for insulation. Also you must put building paper in if it does not have it already. It is designed to absorb condensation and then release it during the day. If you do not have it in there condensation can cause problems. Upside is that your bikes and things will stay drier and way less prone to rust!
If you have nogs at 1200mm then you should use 12mm ply and go horizontally with it to avoid a whole lot of extra nogging and pissing about. Berware tho as some sheets are 1220 and some 1200. You can probably get 3m long sheets as well to save on waste

Swoop
13th September 2009, 16:53
Berware tho as some sheets are 1220 and some 1200. You can probably get 3m long sheets as well to save on waste
Plywood is 1200. MDF is 1220.

slowpoke
13th September 2009, 16:54
What's all this talk of ply, clouts, centres and shit....ya need some posters man!
May I suggest a selection of strategically placed tits, bums and bikes. And don't suffer any of the fools who say you won't be able to hang anything off it, who in their right mind would want to cover up tits, bums and/or bikes?

Kickaha
13th September 2009, 17:58
Try a few places and ask if they have any cover sheets as they are normally far cheaper

painting it all white makes a huge difference as well

I'll try a guy at placemakers who sells the shit and let you know, he's got me a few before

Got a couple of full cover sheets of mdf if you want it for shelving or something cause I aren't going to use it, little bit fluffy but should clean up

If you're going to spend a bit of time in there I'd recommend pink bats as well

ynot slow
13th September 2009, 18:13
Had a mate who lined his garage,he put 9mm plywood covers where he wanted to hang ladders etc,other walls he had nothing to hang on the walls he used 5mm chip,or hardboard what ever is cheapest.

Subike
13th September 2009, 18:49
cheap insulation after using building paper is pollystyrene fruit boxes from the local veg shop. these can be cut to fit cost nothing and are better than batts.
But do put you power points, twice as many as you think you need.
Ensure that you have power points that can take 60amps, you dont want to be using a welder or heavy grinder sander drill on a std 30 amp power plug, that will see your garage turn to ashes really fast, and ensure that the fuse in the house is the right strength for the same reason.
I recomend you also put a cold water tap somewhere handy, that day you burn your hand on a hot exhaust will be worth the trouble.
Use 12mm mdf fore the bottom 1200 of the walls 8mm for the reast except for the wall which will be behind your bench. Construction ply is best for that, as you will want to put storage for tools and other things on this wall.
And as previously stated, power plug in the centre of the roof, I recomend four light fittings for neon tube lighting. on seperate switches.
Have a fire extinguisher permanetly mounted beside the entrance door.

All sound too much?
Not if you want to work on your ride in comfort, be safe, and have your insurance company happy, make sure they know of the mods, because you will use it as a workshop, and if you dont tell tehm, they can witdraw from any clain you may make for injury, burglary fire or water damage.

jono035
13th September 2009, 19:12
If you're lining it with ply or something do you need to put any building paper up as a moisture blocker?

Molly
13th September 2009, 19:27
Shit. Lots of good tips and advice there thanks. Who ever said there are more questions than answers....

I'll print this lot off at work and refer to it during the work.

Thanks again everyone.

Swoop
13th September 2009, 21:06
Ensure that you have power points that can take 60amps, you dont want to be using a welder or heavy grinder sander drill on a std 30 amp power plug, that will see your garage turn to ashes really fast,

Use 12mm mdf fore the bottom 1200 of the walls 8mm for the reast except for the wall which will be behind your bench. Construction ply is best for that, as you will want to put storage for tools and other things on this wall.
Err? I think a sparky might be best to chat with regarding the power points. Having a large fuse for a welder power outlet will probably entail a few specifics to keep insurance companies happy.

Also, keep the MDF sheets off of the floor. Moisture will transfer into the sheet and you will end up with a wall like a soggy weetbix.

mossy1200
13th September 2009, 21:31
Err? I think a sparky might be best to chat with regarding the power points. Having a large fuse for a welder power outlet will probably entail a few specifics to keep insurance companies happy.

Also, keep the MDF sheets off of the floor. Moisture will transfer into the sheet and you will end up with a wall like a soggy weetbix.

im a sparky and standard switched socket is 10amp rated.
House pole fuse is 60 amp on the pole.
2.5mm tps cable will hold 20amps even on cable lenght of 80metres.
One plug cicuit is large enough for garage unless you plan to run large single phase welder then 4mm cable with 32mm rcbo protection for earth leakage breaker as per new wiring regulation reguarding human protection on all exposed 3pin sockets.PM me if you want further information etc or you have quotes that you would like double checked.
Ply or mdf can be installed sheets running sideways for more economic install.
Building supplier will trim the sheets to 1200 each if they are 1220 which will mean sideways the two will reach your 2400 stud height.
Its a garage so use false stud and gib screws to meet each sheet.Your shed should already have building paper between studs and outside clading or steel.

Winston001
13th September 2009, 21:55
Why bother Molly? My "spare" gargre is unlined and I like having all the dwangs as ready-built shelves or nailpoints. If I want a proper shelf I just whack a wide piece of mdf onto a dwang.

Granted, lined is nice but honestly it's not as practical.

And are you sure about 1000mm centres? Not 900? Hope there is plenty of crossbracing for windload.....

Put water in. You'll never regret it. :yes:

Tony.OK
13th September 2009, 22:03
im a sparky and standard switched socket is 10amp rated.
House pole fuse is 60 amp on the pole.
2.5mm tps cable will hold 20amps even on cable lenght of 80metres.
One plug cicuit is large enough for garage unless you plan to run large single phase welder then 4mm cable with 32mm rcbo protection for earth leakage breaker as per new wiring regulation reguarding human protection on all exposed 3pin sockets.PM me if you want further information etc or you have quotes that you would like double checked.
Ply or mdf can be installed sheets running sideways for more economic install.
Building supplier will trim the sheets to 1200 each if they are 1220 which will mean sideways the two will reach your 2400 stud height.
Its a garage so use false stud and gib screws to meet each sheet.Your shed should already have building paper between studs and outside clading or steel.

Versatile sheds only use paper in the roof, nothing on the walls.

As others have said, you definately should put paper up before lining, (against the steel cladding if ya can), especially if you live somewhere cold otherwise you'll end up with rotten framing before ya know it.

mossy1200
13th September 2009, 22:07
Versatile sheds only use paper in the roof, nothing on the walls.

As others have said, you definately should put paper up before lining, (against the steel cladding if ya can), especially if you live somewhere cold otherwise you'll end up with rotten framing before ya know it.

Thats fairly poor.Would sugest the top area of inner lining is left open at top of wall maybe 50mm to allow moisture to escape.Wouldnt use mdf and use ply.
MDF soaks water and swells up.Assume the studs are not treated either.

The Stranger
13th September 2009, 22:07
Ensure that you have power points that can take 60amps, you dont want to be using a welder or heavy grinder sander drill on a std 30 amp power plug, that will see your garage turn to ashes really fast, and ensure that the fuse in the house is the right strength for the same reason.


Seriously, where did you get these figures from?
Can you please post photos of your grinder sander drill?
That's one serious mother of a power tool to draw in excess of 30amps

AllanB
13th September 2009, 22:12
Versatile sheds only use paper in the roof, nothing on the walls.

As others have said, you definitely should put paper up before lining, (against the steel cladding if ya can), especially if you live somewhere cold otherwise you'll end up with rotten framing before ya know it.

This is correct. I paid extra for Versatile to put building paper on mine when it went up new years ago. I came home and it was finished but no paper........ got my money back but f-all else. In retrospect I should have pushed more - if it happened now they would be removing all exterior linings and putting the paper up and relining with new cladding as per the contract we signed.
Ah hindsight....I must have been a lot nicer back then.;)

It nice to have new shed.

Oh - try Bunnings - they often have cheap pallet loads of ply 'seconds' in their drive through. 9 mm (or more) should be fine.

jono035
13th September 2009, 22:17
Versatile sheds only use paper in the roof, nothing on the walls.

As others have said, you definately should put paper up before lining, (against the steel cladding if ya can), especially if you live somewhere cold otherwise you'll end up with rotten framing before ya know it.

Yeah, I seem to recall my grandfather, uncle and boss complaining of the same things about steel garages with no paper...

Mossy: Useful to know there is a friendly sparky floating around, I'm an EEE myself and would love to pick your brain some time if you don't mind...

mossy1200
13th September 2009, 22:20
Yeah, I seem to recall my grandfather, uncle and boss complaining of the same things about steel garages with no paper...

Mossy: Useful to know there is a friendly sparky floating around, I'm an EEE myself and would love to pick your brain some time if you don't mind...

No worries just pm me.

Molly
14th September 2009, 19:35
Thanks again chaps. Wonder if I should put the odd vent in the lining boards to stop moisture build up. Cheers for the electrical advice etc. Mossy.

Why don't you all come round for a beer and BBQ and you can take care of it for me???

Wonder what the spark will cost.

mossy1200
14th September 2009, 20:01
Thanks again chaps. Wonder if I should put the odd vent in the lining boards to stop moisture build up. Cheers for the electrical advice etc. Mossy.

Why don't you all come round for a beer and BBQ and you can take care of it for me???

Wonder what the spark will cost.
Thats a long way for BBQ.You would have to have CDs cause its not bad beer.
Im gunna get some bad rep on that comment.

Molly
14th September 2009, 20:51
Havin' a Sol at the moment. That local stuff's piss....

Incoming!

Brett
16th September 2009, 10:20
Ply is a good option, but definitley use at least 9mm so that it can hold decent mass.