Do you have mechanical knowledge? Help me with a car mystery please.

[Maki]

My car behaves in a way that seems inexplicable. I would be most grateful to anyone who can make sense of what it does.

It is a Nissan Primera 1990 2.0 automatic.

It runs fine and almost always starts. The only time it gives me any grief is if I have started it cold, moved it a few metres, turned it off, left it for a while (hours or days) and then tried to start it again. It hates this and it will take quite a long time turning the engine over before it starts and then it runs very badly until it warms up slightly.

Do any of you people with mechanical knowledge understand what is going on here?

Bling will be awarded for a good answer.

[Virago]

When it does it, does the motor sound "different" when cranking over on the starter?

[cs363]

My first guess would be dodgy coolant sensor.

[YellowDog]

It sounds like a thermostat/auto choke issue.

[Conquiztador]

Typical flux capacitor problem (The Korean ones). Only solution is to push the car back to the initial spot and it will start straight away. It has to do with the inferior quality of the Asian metal that is very sensitive to the earths magnetic poles.:msn-wink:

[Usarka]

Happened to a mate of mine in his subaru.

Something along the lines of an auto-choke type system flooding the engine because it was turned off too quick.

Might be a starting point (excuse the pun).....

[mashman]

Could just be a lazy spark plug telling you to fuck off and let him sleep in on such a cold day... :msn-wink:

[Virago]

It sounds like a classic case of "valve lock".

I understand that the 2.0l Nissan motor uses hydraulic valve lifters. If started from cold and then turned off straight away before the engine oil has warmed, the valves can stick open. This prevents cylinder compression, and the motor won't start. When cranking over, the lack of compression is quite audible.

It's a bloody annoying quirk. It can be managed to a certain degree by regular oil changes, using the correct (10W/30) oil. The only real solution - don't start it from cold and then turn it off immediately. Always run it for a couple of minutes.

No, I'm not a mechanic - but I've got a 2.0l Bluebird...:laugh:

[Maki]

When it does it, does the motor sound "different" when cranking over on the starter?

Yes, its sounds weak and wheezy, not like normal when it turns over more strongly.

[Maki]

It sounds like a classic case of "valve lock".



Brilliant, genius. Bling awarded. Amazing how fast that got answered.

[Virago]

Yes, its sounds weak and wheezy, not like normal when it turns over more strongly.

Okay, see my post above...:niceone:

[cs363]

Just for clarification, what series engine does your car have?

Nissan make quite a few 2.0 litre engines, is it a twin cam or single cam?

[Maki]

Twin cam. I am sure the car has the top of the line engine for 1990.

Virago's explanation makes perfect sense because the engine feels like it has no compression.

[KrazyGixxerBoy]

It sounds like a classic case of "valve lock".

I understand that the 2.0l Nissan motor uses hydraulic valve lifters. If started from cold and then turned off straight away before the engine oil has warmed, the valves can stick open. This prevents cylinder compression, and the motor won't start. When cranking over, the lack of compression is quite audible.

It's a bloody annoying quirk. It can be managed to a certain degree by regular oil changes, using the correct (10W/30) oil. The only real solution - don't start it from cold and then turn it off immediately. Always run it for a couple of minutes.

No, I'm not a mechanic - but I've got a 2.0l Bluebird...:laugh:

Yeah, what he said! I had similar issues with my Primera in the past....got rid of it and bought a Mitsi!

[SMOKEU]

I've never had any of those issues with my SR20DET. Do a fault code check on the ECU.

[NDORFN]

The only time it gives me any grief is if I have started it cold, moved it a few metres, turned it off, left it for a while (hours or days) and then tried to start it again.

Have you considered teaching your dog to get the paper in?

[ready4whatever]

I've had auto choke issues with my Mazda B2200 ute. I've had a wrx and a forester and didnt have any issues with the subarus. Its how they've been treated i guess

[cs363]

Twin cam. I am sure the car has the top of the line engine for 1990.

Virago's explanation makes perfect sense because the engine feels like it has no compression.

Probably an SR20 series then, haven't heard of them having problems like that but I guess anything is possible! Normally they get noisy if anything, as Virago implied they are very sensitive to the correct oil viscosity and of course sludge/dirt etc may cause issues.
Using a flush when you change the oil is probably not a bad idea, but good quality oil of the right type/weight is what they like.
Here's a couple of pics of the SR20 head with valves in and removed, also a pic of the blighter in question, just so you know what we're actually talking about. (The lifters sit in the holes visible on the far side of the head (pic with rocker arms removed) this system uses shims to match the height of the valves to the rocker arm guide - of each pair of valves one is shimmed to match the other valve with the rocker arm guide on it and then the HVLA (hydraulic valve lash adjuster) takes care of the clearance)

[Maki]

So thats what the inside of the engine looks like, thanks for the pics. I will just make sure to let it run for at least a few minutes next time I need to take a trip to the mailbox.

Thanks all.

[Supermac Jr]

check the battery

[Maki]

check the battery

How could this possibly have anything to do with the battery???

[White trash]

It sounds like a classic case of "valve lock".

I understand that the 2.0l Nissan motor uses hydraulic valve lifters. If started from cold and then turned off straight away before the engine oil has warmed, the valves can stick open. This prevents cylinder compression, and the motor won't start. When cranking over, the lack of compression is quite audible.

It's a bloody annoying quirk. It can be managed to a certain degree by regular oil changes, using the correct (10W/30) oil. The only real solution - don't start it from cold and then turn it off immediately. Always run it for a couple of minutes.

No, I'm not a mechanic - but I've got a 2.0l Bluebird...:laugh:
Aha! Thanks for that, my P10 TE did it a couple of times and it had me fucked. Mr Me's P11 has also done it twice.

To get mine running I just kept cranking the thing with my foot flat on the gas. Starts always after about 30 seconds of no compression cranking. Luckily the V8 doesn't have that issue :)