12V50/35 Switch.

[StatX]

I've swapped the light on my CB250 Nighthawk from a Lamp at 50/35W to a Halogen at 35/35W, Should this cause problems with the bike's running(i.e. bike cutting out when the handlebars are turned left or right)? My understanding is that a 35/35W bulb will chew less energy/second...

Any input is much appreciated.

- S

[CookMySock]

It should draw less current and create less heat. Can't see a problem with that.

Does the bulb fit snugly into its' mounting? Is the light pattern nice and clean?

Steve

[StatX]

I basically took the Halogen's Lens and Housing and used the one from the CB250 to mount it. So it's still using its own parts. It seems to be fine (Not sure about the angle as I've nothing to reference it with) and it mounts snugly. The only issue I can assume is the wiring. I've soldered it myself.

It was having a few issues with the old light however, I'm just wondering if the switch might have compounded the issue. It's like it's losing power for a few seconds and the bike starts cutting out and dies - we're talking the bars are moving 1-3cm, if that and it starts dying...

It's been suggested to me that it might be a short (haven't bought a multimeter to test it yet). Is there anything else that might be doing it?

Oh, and the guys at Haldane's think it's got the wrong battery but apparently the guys at Botany Honda got it from the parts list for my bike - Not sure if that'd make too much of a difference.

- S

[CookMySock]

It's been suggested to me that it might be a short (haven't bought a multimeter to test it yet).I'd say that would be very possible. I wouldn't be soldering anything, rather I'd use quality automotive crimps for the correct size wire, and buy yourself a quality crimping tool (not a $12 pressed-steel one.)

edit: like this one http://www.voltelectronics.co.nz/tools/crimping-tools/automotive-crimp-tool.html

Leave the engine off so you can hear and see any sparks, and wriggle the bars and wiring loom gently gently until it faults, and then make smaller and smaller movements until you find the exact spot something is shorting.

Steve

[vifferman]

... and before you do that, look for likely spots for a short or break - where the wiring might be bent or crushed, and at the ends where connectors are, or any plugs or joins along its length. It's not going to just randomly crap out in the middle, but somewhere that the bars' movement is stressing the wiring.

[NinjaNanna]

did you unplug any connectors when you did the job?

Assuming you did I'd use some spray contact cleaner from Jaycar or Dick Smith, to give all of the connectors a bit of a clean.

Best bet is you've either got a wire shorting out to due to being rubbed raw or you've got a dirty/corroded connector stopping the power getting to where it needs to be.

[StatX]

Alright, thanks guys, I'll look for that and see how it goes.

I only unplugged the light that used to be in there and took out its connector. I'll post up some results when I get them :P