FZR died on the motorway!! Electrical help needed.

[BASS-TREBLE]

Just got home from Auckland in the van, with my bike in the back.

Had a lovely ride from Tauranga to Bombay on wednesday, the thing is, I wanted to get to Westmere.

Here's the plot.
Stopped just out of Paeroa to have a leak, noticed a pretty strong sulfur smell in the air, must be fertilizers.

Filled up in Bombay, same smell, start to get worried.

20km further up the highway at 100kmh I lose all power, not mechanically, the tach reads 0rpm, same thing happens when I hit the kill switch. Check it but no its fine, pull in clutch and coast to a stop.

That smell is stronger and steam is coming out of the overflow tube.
Take off seat, battery too hot to touch.
Assume a short happened.
I quickly disconnected everything from battery and let it cool down.

My first thought is something with the relay activated cigarette lighter is playing up, but the fuse is fine.

All other fuses on bike are fine.

AA tootles along, old guy checks battery, 13.8V. I get told battery is fine.
Turn on ignition, battery is at 7V, so the battery it is.

Hook up jump starter pack, neutral light etc works but when starter pushed, it doesn't even try to crank over. Oil light lights up as usual.
Solenoid fried?

This is all I've figured so far, I'm off to get a battery now, probably need to get it ordered but I still have a stuffed bike.

I think its a short somewhere that isn't fused, but fucked if I knew.

Possibly the regulator/rectifier?

Any ideas welcome, I'm pretty confident doing stuff mechanically and electrically.

Have a good, wet, weekend everyone.

[paturoa]

Sounds more like over charing (the regulator is giving high voltage to the bat when charging), rather than a short. A short typically will blow the main or other fuse, or run the bat flat, but not cook the battery.

Suggest that you swap for a known good bat and try the following first before

1) put a volt meter meter across it when disconnected
2) connected to the fizzer and leave everything turned off - should be the same as 1)
3) turn on the ignition and should drop a couple of volts, try with and without the headlights turned on. If it drops a lot of volts then stop there.
4) start her up and check the volts with lights off, should be around 13.5 but NOT above 15v (ish) when idiling.
5) rev her and watch the volts, again should stay around 13.5 and NOT go above 15 (ish).

[mossy1200]

Hi there I have fzr and it is most likely the R/R.
They are a very weak component on fzr and the best fix is r6 unit.
The information for conversion can be found on http://fzronline.com/forum/index.php
If you cant find info then contact Duanne aka Sweeks and he will link you to the archives info.

Search through and there is plenty of conversion info.
Battery standing should be around 12.6volts
13.6 volts is the correct figure for the battery while charging at high revs without lighting load so you may be lucky and TCI unit should be ok.
Ignition on should be 11.5volts approx although mine is higher because it is race only.The fuel pump will draw current with ignition on so that drops the standing voltage.
R/R do kill the battery so ordering replacement is a good idea.

New rectifier
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-REGULATOR-RECTIFIER-YAMAHA-FZR-1000-FZR1000-1987-95_W0QQitemZ230362071570QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotorcy cles_Parts_Accessories?hash=item35a2a64212

[BASS-TREBLE]

Cheers mate. Will look into that.
Ugh, the TCI was replaced 4k km ago =(

[BASS-TREBLE]

Uh call me stupid, but wheres the R/R?

This is the alt cover removed. To me it looks like the 3 wires from alt are on left, the the 2 wires exiting are going straight to main wiring loom so should I remove this part too?

Cant see anything in behind this clearly outlining a RR by having a quick looksie with torch

[SPman]

I had to replace R/R on my FZR750, many years ago....

[mossy1200]

Uh call me stupid, but wheres the R/R?

This is the alt cover removed. To me it looks like the 3 wires from alt are on left, the the 2 wires exiting are going straight to main wiring loom so should I remove this part too?

Cant see anything in behind this clearly outlining a RR by having a quick looksie with torch
Its the bit all the wires are soldered onto.Best to convert it to external as per link and the instructions that come with it.

[BASS-TREBLE]

Thought so, Cheers


Your regulator/rectifier failed and allowed unregulated voltage through to the battery (overcharged). The sulfur smell was the battery acid vaporizing.

The battery is probably destroyed-one or more cells are fried. When trying to jumper it, the dead short in teh battery takes all the current it can get, so none available to power anything with a decent electrical demand (start solenoid etc.). but the weak battery voltage enough to light indicators lights (neutral and oil).

My bet is that you need to replace the regulator/rectifier unit AND the battery. If you are lucky, you didn't destroy any other components-tho the tach may be killed (read: zero)

[mossy1200]

Thought so, Cheers

Picture added to previous post.External is the go.Second hand r6 is the choice yzf600.They are cheep and reliable or the new one.
There are internal aftermarket replacements but have heard horror stories of fried TCI from some.

[BASS-TREBLE]

I already forked out $250 for the last TCI. Oh well, just hope for now.

Curently reading up about the External mod on here http://fzronline.com/wiki/doku.php?id=r6_voltage_regulator_conversion , It's the only one I could find.

[mossy1200]

Yeh thats the same process except the fzr600 regulator was small external.
You need to run three new cables down to alternator as the ac cables then come from regualtor with your dc cables.You can use the cables that currently go to the alternator for these two.
The flow chart will give you the test sequence for testing .They are the same figures for yours.

[BASS-TREBLE]

Yeh thats the same process except the fzr600 regulator was small external.
You need to run three new cables down to alternator as the ac cables then come from regualtor with your dc cables.You can use the cables that currently go to the alternator for these two.
The flow chart will give you the test sequence for testing .They are the same figures for yours.

Sounds good.
Where is a good place to mount the RR?
By fuses? On an engine bolt?
Also, should I solder and use shrink tubing? or crimps?


You wouldn't know the wattage/amp output of the FZR would you?
I have heated grips lying around but I was hesitant as I was told it has a weak electrical system, obviously.
Would be keen to use them.

[mossy1200]

Sounds good.
Where is a good place to mount the RR?
By fuses? On an engine bolt?
Also, should I solder and use shrink tubing? or crimps?


You wouldn't know the wattage/amp output of the FZR would you?
I have heated grips lying around but I was hesitant as I was told it has a weak electrical system, obviously.
Would be keen to use them.
I had heated grips on my 1987 fzr1000 genesis in 1993 without hassle.Unless you have fitted oversize lamps in headlight they will be fine.
VR upgrade will make your electrical as good as any bike.
There should be room under left side panel below seat for it from memory.
I used an ally offcut mounted to subframe assy and then mounted to that which gives you larger heat sink surface.
There is crimp lugs that have a heat shrink sleave(clear).I use these as they offer moisture protection and are very tidy.You can also get the spade terminals for new vr in the same style.
Electrical wholesalers such as Ideal Electrical will stock packs of twenty.they are handy to have and about twice the price of standard lugs.
Some vrs have only four terminals and use the vr mounting as ground so ensure you are mounting to metal.

[BASS-TREBLE]

Sweet, will look into getting those lugs.
I will get that vr of Ebay, unless anyone knows any others that will work, preferred from trademe. Or does any 5 plug work?

[mossy1200]

Sweet, will look into getting those lugs.
I will get that vr of Ebay, unless anyone knows any others that will work, preferred from trademe. Or does any 5 plug work?
best to stick with r6,r1,yzf600 or new.The conversion from 50volts ac to correct output voltage is critical.If another bike produces more or less acc in the alternator then the result on you bike will be to high or low.
These are the only models that I would try.
Conversion 75cents to dollar isnt to bad at the moment if you need to get the ebay item.

[pete376403]

Its worthwhile mounting the r/r where it can get a decent flow of cooling air -excess voltage is converted to heat and it needs to go somewhere. On my GS Suzuki (which have notoriously crap charging systems) I mounted the r/r on the frame downtubes just under the steering head. Use decent sized cable and soldered connections with heat shrink insulation. Unless they are well made, crimps add resistance to the circuit, which causes heat. And there is no place for electrical tape as insulation as it it peels off over time and leaves exposed live connections.

[BASS-TREBLE]

Good news!
Connected a charged batt, fuel pump primes, and she cranks over.

Last time that the TCI was stuffed, the fuel pump didn't prime. I didn't check spark but assume it's all good.

Now just need to organise a VR from ebay.

Probably mount VR by LHS rear subframe, I think there is sufficient airflow behind it from wheel arch etc .

I commute daily with my bike, will be using dad's BMW R11GS for now, I might need to change my riding style.

[mossy1200]

Good news!
Connected a charged batt, fuel pump primes, and she cranks over.

Last time that the TCI was stuffed, the fuel pump didn't prime. I didn't check spark but assume it's all good.

Now just need to organise a VR from ebay.

Probably mount VR by LHS rear subframe, I think there is sufficient airflow behind it from wheel arch etc .

I commute daily with my bike, will be using dad's BMW R11GS for now, I might need to change my riding style.
Disconnect the vr and the bike will run without it so you can check it out.
Battery will last 20mins without lights running if fully charged.

[BASS-TREBLE]

She runs like normal, friggen tach doesn't though!!

Also the lights didn't work, not even in dash, fuses all good.

Edit: just checked, high beam works, so the lights that were on at the time were obviously blown.

[mossy1200]

She runs like normal, friggen tach doesn't though!!

Also the lights didn't work, not even in dash, fuses all good.

I have just looked at exup wiring diagram and your bike is most likely wired the same.
The brown wire from rectifier runs up to the isolator switch secondary contacts.This then feeds the tacho,main headlight,indicators and dash lights so what you have appears to be normal without r/r connected.It seems this is done so the lights etc turn off with the run stop and start switch rather than flatten battery

[CookMySock]

Buy yourself a proper crimp too bro. Don't use the pressed steel repco/supercheap/bunnings ones.

Steve

[carver]

bloody yamaha's