Damper rod bolt removal...

[R6_kid]

I'm currently going through the process of changing the fork seals on the TRX - it has conventional (RWU) forks. I'm at the point where I need to remove the damper rod bolt, the workshop manual says to us a T-handle and holder (yamaha workshop parts).

Does anyone have any tips or suggestions on how to go about this without those tools?

[Morcs]

Just run em down to treads for the bits you cant do?

[F5 Dave]

So can you get to the bolt with a decent allen bit? Go buy the bit if you don't have right size.

If you then want to hold the damper rod you can usually get away with reinstalling the springs & compressing the forks, perhaps held by brake mounts in a soft face vice (obviously don't clamp it somewhere dumb). The pressure of the springs should hold it tight enough. The holder tool is likely a hex on a long bar.

[HDTboy]

I've got the tools

[R6_kid]

I have the right size allen key (8mm) but I have to use the ball end, and it's starting to slip out if I don't also push down. I think I'll drop by cycletreads to see if they can help, but I was hoping to get this done at home.

On my old R6 forks I just used a long (very long) flat head screw driver, but I feel a bit more care is due this time round... ;)

[Yankee Doodle Dandy]

A ball end on a cartridge bolt is a good way to end up with a stripped bolt head.

[CookMySock]

Don't you just zap it with a rattle gun? Thats what I have seen done. Hold it on the job really tightly though wontcha.. if you fuck that up the only way it will come out is with a stick welder turned up high and bore it out.

Steve

[F5 Dave]

I said a Decent Allen bit. Ball ends are a stupid idea. Ok sometimes they are convenient but T handles with flat ends re better 9 x out of 10 (PS: it may be a dirty word but Supercheap have some quite good sets for ~$20, they are accurately made & don't burr).

But if you can go buy a long reach bit with a socket, cost about $10 & you'll always have it.

[JD Racing]

I'm currently going through the process of changing the fork seals on the TRX - it has conventional (RWU) forks. I'm at the point where I need to remove the damper rod bolt, the workshop manual says to us a T-handle and holder (yamaha workshop parts).

Does anyone have any tips or suggestions on how to go about this without those tools?

Yeah, don't do it, never start a job without the right tools to do the job.

[imdying]

I have the right size allen key (8mm) but I have to use the ball end, and it's starting to slip out if I don't also push down.In other words you do not have the right tool. Listen to F5 Dave. Buying tools is great therapy. And by jove you'll need it if you fuck up that bolt down that hole...

:bash::pinch::slap:

[R6_kid]

A rattle gun with an 8mm allen key bit did the job quite well...

The T-handle 'Yamaha Workshop Tool" is $125 and is basically a long extension rod with a T handle on one end and a 26mm bolt welded on the other.

[F5 Dave]

. . . The holder tool is likely a hex on a long bar.
Told ya. Made my first one for my RG as described. Don't bother these days, quicker just to leave the spring in.

[Yankee Doodle Dandy]

I haven't had an R6 forks apart but have had several Kawasaki Kayaba stuff and their cartridges have a 3/4" square "hole" at the top of the cartridge. You can just go to a hardware store and pick up some 3/4" square tubing and use that to hold the cartridge.

[hayd3n]

when i did my forks i used a rattle gun,
then once apart made a nice s/s tool with a 26mm head welded to the end
so i could put them back together w/o stripping the bolt

[Yankee Doodle Dandy]

A 3/8 air gun shoots them right as many said, but then you can run into issues when you tighten them.