Dirt-bike handlebars on and FXR150?

[Damien_Toman]

I bent my right handlebar on may FXR150 (crashing). I was thinking of removing the FXR handlebars and fitting dirt-bike bars (I have a spare set with mountings from my motocross bike - CRF250R). Has anyone done this? Would I need to drill my FXR150 top triple clamp (I have a drill press). The bar mountings would be closer than normal but could work. I want to do this. Maybe start tomorrow over the long weekend. Any issues? I would really appreciate your advice. I have been practicing at bucket racing (mostly crashing) but not raced in 25 years :no:. I need advice and opinions on this. I like the high bars on some of the CB125T's :apumpin:

[Henk]

The only thing I can think of is that you might want to make sure your throttle cable and brake line are going to be long enough to reach the new bars before you start drilling holes. Other than that I can't see any issues.

[Damien_Toman]

The only thing I can think of is that you might want to make sure your throttle cable and brake line are going to be long enough to reach the new bars before you start drilling holes. Other than that I can't see any issues.

Thanks Henk. Yes, I was wondering about that. The top tripple clamp is also quite thin for handlebar support. I'd still like to do it. It will be hard to check cable lengths without going for it! Anyone done it?

[Damien_Toman]

Been out to the garage and had a closer look. See photo below. I discovered that the CRF250R mounts screw into the FXR bar fasteners! That was a very pleasant surprise. If I thread the CRF mounting bolts further, this will work well without drilling the FXR triple clamp. The nuts from the original bar fasteners will still work. As Henk said, I still need to check cable lengths. This is looking good! :yeah: The dirt-bike bars will give great flexibility on bar position to suit riding preference and style: high, low, forward and back in-close to the body. I think I need any advantage I can create :Punk:

[Henk]

Damien

If you don't want to keep switching bars across from bike to bike and want to play with handlebar heights a combination of these might be the way to go.

http://www.cycletreads.co.nz/products/497-bar_mounts_and_clamp_kits_for_oversize_bars/2244-zeta_rx_clamp_kit.aspx

http://www.cycletreads.co.nz/products/497-bar_mounts_and_clamp_kits_for_oversize_bars/2375-zeta_option_lower_bar_clamp.aspx


There are other clamps available for a bit less dosh.

http://www.cycletreads.co.nz/products/497-bar_mounts_and_clamp_kits_for_oversize_bars/2922-renthal_bar_mounts.aspx

[Voltaire]

I recently made up new clutch cable for my FXR150 ( Dellorto's former one).
Just the ones you get from the bike shop ( Cycletreads) and cut and solder the nipple on.

[Damien_Toman]

Damien

If you don't want to keep switching bars across from bike to bike and want to play with handlebar heights a combination of these might be the way to go.

http://www.cycletreads.co.nz/products/497-bar_mounts_and_clamp_kits_for_oversize_bars/2244-zeta_rx_clamp_kit.aspx

http://www.cycletreads.co.nz/products/497-bar_mounts_and_clamp_kits_for_oversize_bars/2375-zeta_option_lower_bar_clamp.aspx


There are other clamps available for a bit less dosh.

http://www.cycletreads.co.nz/products/497-bar_mounts_and_clamp_kits_for_oversize_bars/2922-renthal_bar_mounts.aspx


I bought fat bars and a raised mounting kit for the CRF250R so I could install a Scotts steering damper under the bars. So, the bars and mounts in the photo are currently ready for use on the FXR. Yes, there are good kit options if I make the change to dirt-bike bars - thanks for the links.

[Damien_Toman]

I recently made up new clutch cable for my FXR150 ( Dellorto's former one).
Just the ones you get from the bike shop ( Cycletreads) and cut and solder the nipple on.

Good. Hope I don't need to make new cables.

[Henk]

Not sure what the bend and sweep on your bars will be. If they are CR lows you should be OK. If you get stuck I found a set of low rise dirt bike bars in the garage the other day, never been used and not sure what I bought them for.
Give me a yell if you want to try them. was going to cut them up for the steel until I found some other crap I could use.

[Damien_Toman]

Thanks for the offer. Mine are the standard CRF250R bars and I'm prepared to cut them if I need to.

The thread on the CRF bar mounts seems to be M10x1.25 - tested at Supercheap. My 10x1.25 die does not screw on to the thread - stops about half-way through the die. Should I be worried? I don't want to damage the existing threads and this die looks like it will affect the existing thread.

I'm a total newbie on taps & dies and just have a cheap kit.

[Henk]

Could be a weird thread size. I've got a pitch gauge here if you want to borrow it. With taps I just bought the sizes I needed but got good ones, the cheap sets looked like they were made out of cheese. M5, 6 and eight will do mosth things on jap bikes. I've only bothered with intermediate taps since all I ever do is clean up threads. M6 helicoil kit can come in handy as well.

[avgas]

I recently made up new clutch cable for my FXR150 ( Dellorto's former one).
Just the ones you get from the bike shop ( Cycletreads) and cut and solder the nipple on.
Would be interested to know how long it lasts - I used to do this for the RG.....they only last 2 weeks max, gave up in the end and bought one. They must do something special with it when they do the nipple, Mine kept getting gutted

[bucketracer]

You have to splay the wire out. The solder is only there to stop the wire straightening back up and pulling back through the nipple.

Some handy hints on making cables:- http://www.dansmc.com/solder_cable.htm

.

[Damien_Toman]

Good cable tips.

Here is the CRF250R handlebar mount. To extend the threading will be hard as the diameter above the thread is slightly larger than the threaded area and the metal seems very hard. Might need to find similar already threaded all the way. I'll have a look through Henks previous links.

[Voltaire]

Would be interested to know how long it lasts - I used to do this for the RG.....they only last 2 weeks max, gave up in the end and bought one. They must do something special with it when they do the nipple, Mine kept getting gutted

me too....
The brass nipple that came with it was too small, so I made another on the lathe.
And yes I bent the strands back on themselves to make a 'cone' shape and soldered them into the tapered hole, filed it all up.
You get good at this stuff when you have 30 year old bikes...:blink:

[Voltaire]

They probably fit thru a rubber bush arrangement on the dirt bike.
I don't like your chances of threading the shaft as its probably hardened.
if you put the shaft in a vice maybe you can unscrew the stud, then fit a short threaded one.
on 10 mm the pitch should be 1.5 mm.

[Damien_Toman]

I didn't expect the stud to be un-screwable! That's worth a try. I'll let you know..... Tried it. It won't budge so I have cut off the stud and re-drilled the mount. I'll look for the right drill size and then thread it to M10x1.25 and all should be well :)

[Henk]

The aftermarket mounts and KTM mounts come with a T bolt thing that feeds through an unthreaded hole. Trick would probably be to get another top clamp and butcher that. On the other hand if you drill a clearance hole you always have the nut on the bottom if you decide to go back to standard.

[Damien_Toman]

I considered a non-threaded hole but I would have had to drill a 16mm indent so the Allen bolt head would not hit the bar and that would have weakened the mount too much, I think - I'm going to be putting some pressure on those bars during braking.

So, I drilled a 9mm hole, tapped it to M10x1.25 (had to buy a new set of taps & dies as mine did not have tapered taps and are therefore only suitable for cleaning rather than cutting fresh threads). As seen in photos, I can screw a longer bolt in (need to get those) araldite the threads in place on the mounts so they stay there, then cut off the head of the bolt with the Dremmel and use a new nylock nut to secure the bars. I will also need to make spacers for the mounts to clear the top of the forks, or, I could drop the forks in the tripple clamps - not sure how well it would steer with the raised front end. I also prefer to keep the bike as low as possible.

[Damien_Toman]

Anyone raised or lowered their FXR150 forks? What difference did it make to the handling, if any?

[UNSTABLE]

Anyone raised or lowered their FXR150 forks? What difference did it make to the handling, if any?

Most of us, (Rick, Gav, myself at least...) have dropped the front end (the reverse of what you want to do) to get a bit more steering. I don't think raising the front would be a terribly good thing to do as the steering is already a bit lazy on FXR's. You would end up with a bit of a chopper on your hands...

I thought about going the route you have with MX bars but they would just end up too high for my liking.

[Max Headroom]

Damien, have you tried straightening your FXR 'bars? The lovely Mrs Headroom has binned her FXR a few times and bent the 'bars, and i've simply used a length of pipe and bent them back again.

That was after I'd done a price-check at the local Suzuki dealer . . . . :gob:

[craisin]

most people would be thinking clip ons for racing

[quallman1234]

How bad are your clip-on's? If they are buggered i'm sure you could still cut and weld a new piece of tube on to them?

[Morcs]

If you are going to have risers fitted, would highly recommend FZ1 bars.

Dirt bike bars are not ideal. They dont have very long flat areas to mount all your switches etc, and are generally just too wide.

I have FZ1 bars on my FZ6. Are the most comfy bars ive ever tried. They have a flat profile with a sweep back toward the rider, giving a comfy yet still sporty-ish riding position. $90 from a yammy dealer.

[Damien_Toman]

Most of us, (Rick, Gav, myself at least...) have dropped the front end (the reverse of what you want to do) to get a bit more steering. I don't think raising the front would be a terribly good thing to do as the steering is already a bit lazy on FXR's. You would end up with a bit of a chopper on your hands...

I thought about going the route you have with MX bars but they would just end up too high for my liking.

I'm going to give the dirt-bike bars a try but as you suggest I will not raise the front, I'll just make spacers for the bars. I agree that lowering the front would probably help and provide faster steering for tight circuits. Thanks for the advice.

[Damien_Toman]

Damien, have you tried straightening your FXR 'bars? The lovely Mrs Headroom has binned her FXR a few times and bent the 'bars, and i've simply used a length of pipe and bent them back again.

That was after I'd done a price-check at the local Suzuki dealer . . . . :gob:

Yes, I heated the bars with a blow-torch and had a go - see photos. It straightened a bit but I still want to try my dirt-bike bars. They will be lighter, I will have greater opportunity for adjustments to suit how I ride and I'm prepared to cut them narrower if I feel that helps. I'll go back to standard if I don't like it. Hey, I like trying different things. :scooter:

[Damien_Toman]

How bad are your clip-on's? If they are buggered i'm sure you could still cut and weld a new piece of tube on to them?

That's an option if I need it but the bend is not too bad and I've managed to straighten it a little. I've just decided to have a go with the high bars that I have lying around not being used. I use ProTaper fat bars on my CRF250R and will never go back to these standard bars for dirt riding. Yes, I've seen FXR bars that have been cut and welded successfully. I don't have welding equipment and don't know how to weld so these are all factors..... Thanks for the advice. :ride:

[Damien_Toman]

If you are going to have risers fitted, would highly recommend FZ1 bars.

Dirt bike bars are not ideal. They dont have very long flat areas to mount all your switches etc, and are generally just too wide.

I have FZ1 bars on my FZ6. Are the most comfy bars ive ever tried. They have a flat profile with a sweep back toward the rider, giving a comfy yet still sporty-ish riding position. $90 from a yammy dealer.

Yes, I like that sweep-back toward the rider style. That's what I'm after. I think the CRF bars will hold the switches and levers and my GPS unit :rolleyes: - great for checking speeds around sections of the track for each lap. The FZ1's sound great but I already have these bars so they cost me nothing, except for adjustments to the mounts - now well underway.

[DELLORTO]

the left bar on my old fxr was slightly bent, it didnt seem to make a difference........but if you like the mx bars go for it!!! give it a try, you might start a new trend!:woohoo:


you should come to taupo racing this weekend! give the fxr a good run

[Damien_Toman]

With the bar bent, my thumb hits the tank on full lock. When I raced years ago that would fail scrutineering as a tank slapper could leave you with broken thumbs! A tank slapper is probably unlikely with these small bikes on a small circuit but you could still hurt your thumb going down. I've straightened it a bit but I'm determined to give the MX bars a go :bash:

I will do Taupo on another occasion - probably next time it's on. This time the bike is not quite ready and I'm also still a bit sore (right shoulder and left thumb!). I am also hoping to have old race tyres for 14 Nov. practice at Mt Wellington while waiting for new slicks (due mid December). I am not going out again on the tyres I've got - even the side wall on the front tyre is perishing - see photo.

Have fun and stay on :Punk:

[Damien_Toman]

Progress! Mounts drilled, threaded with M10x1.25, threaded bar cut to size (allowing for deep 12mm threaded nuts for spacers to clear forks) and araldited into mounts.

[Henk]

Definitely making progress.
I'm slowly getting there as well. Hopefully have eveything done by the two hour. Work getting in the way of life.

[DELLORTO]

Definitely making progress.
I'm slowly getting there as well. Hopefully have eveything done by the two hour. Work getting in the way of life.

what are you doing to your bike?

[Henk]

what are you doing to your bike?

Taking things away.
Hopefully I haven't removed anything critical.

[Damien_Toman]

Looking forward to seeing it.

[Henk]

It's looking a bit sad at the moment. I seem to have trouble putting things back on straight. Geting there though, I think I can put the angle grinder away for now. Main things left to do are to get the GSXR wheels butchered and get busy with the paint. I have someone who knows what he's doing to do the work on the wheels thankfully.

[Damien_Toman]

Yes, I've stayed with the original wheels, at this stage, as fitting 250cc wheels sounds like it requires machining, fitting and possibly new bearings and brake disc work.

Henk, you were right in your early post that I might need longer throttle and clutch cables. I do:argh:! I've made a start and will take some photos of making the new cables:sweatdrop.

Using threaded 12mm nuts as spacers - see photo.
How the bars look so far - see photo.

[Henk]

as fitting 250cc wheels sounds like it requires machining, fitting and possibly new bearings and brake disc work.


Surely does take some maching, just spent a day and a half at a mates workshop getting the gixer wheels modified.

Rear wheel
Found bearings that go straight in but you still need to make a brake side spacer and a new spacer for inside the wheel between the bearings. Still have to get a couple of seals as one of the bearings isn't a seal type, made the spacer OD to suit readily available seals. Also need to take 12mm off the disk carriers.

Front wheel
Machined the wheel to take bearings as the closest thing I could find had a 1mm bigger OD, spacer for inside the wheel and spacers for both sides of the wheel, made these the same width for ease of fitment even though it puts the wheel 0.4 mm off center. Also had to machine 2mm off the disk carrier to stop the disk bolts running into the caliper mount. Haven't heard of anyone else doing this so suspect there are a few bikes out there with the wheel more on the piss than mine is by quite a bit.

Two sets of wheels done at the same time to make it easy to switch from slicks to wets. Two sets of spacers made in case I get stupid and lose one.

Took much longer than I thought to get it all done, Engineer mate that did most of the work was suprised at how quickly it went.

[Damien_Toman]

Great information. You should do a complete write-up on the project when you are done. Would be really valuable to the rest of us. I might even start taking bits off mine! :rockon:

[Henk]

Most of the mods I've poached off here.
Wheels, hmurphy pipe mod, rip out all uneccesary electric string (including dash) chop anything off the frame that doesn't look like it needs to be there any more, glass tail piece and number board from Hazzard and thats about it. Still may have to move the seat unit around a bit, may have it mounted a bit high. Will put some pictures up when it's all done, you're more than welcome to take it for a stroll at some stage to see if it's an improvement on stock.

[UNSTABLE]

Front wheel
Machined the wheel to take bearings as the closest thing I could find had a 1mm bigger OD, spacer for inside the wheel and spacers for both sides of the wheel, made these the same width for ease of fitment even though it puts the wheel 0.4 mm off center.

How did you centre the wheel? FXR's out of the box have the wheel 4mm or so offset in the forks... but they are in line with the rear...

[Henk]

Measured edges of the wheel to the forks on both sides and then did the same with the GSXR wheel. Maybe an oops moment. Will find out next saturday I guess.

[Max Headroom]

I've just fitted a TZR front wheel to Mrs Headroom's bucket to match the existing TZR rear wheel. I measured the distance from the rim to the slider on both sides and made the spacers to centralise the wheel as required. The exercise also involved new bearings and a new adapter plate to mount the FXR brake disc.

I've also checked the front-to-rear alignment and re-machined the TZR rear wheel & spacers to locate the rim in line with the front wheel. The rear hub setup it had when purchased was quite lop-sided, with the chain alignment and rear wheel skewed to the left side of the bike.

Time will tell if it was worth the effort.

[Henk]

Stringline on the bike today. The wheels are in fact 4mm out, going to be easier to shunt the front over at the moment than to move the rear across (machine another 4mm off the disk carriers, make new spacers, space the sprocket out 4mm) where the front just needs a couple of spacers made, thankfully the 2mm I took off the disk carriers isn't going to cripple me, at worst I can always run the wheels backwards and use the side we didn't molest in the lathe. At verry worst I may end up runing with the wheels out of line, hopefully wouldn't make the handling TOO weird.

[Damien_Toman]

Most of the mods I've poached off here.
Wheels, hmurphy pipe mod, rip out all uneccesary electric string (including dash) chop anything off the frame that doesn't look like it needs to be there any more, glass tail piece and number board from Hazzard and thats about it. Still may have to move the seat unit around a bit, may have it mounted a bit high. Will put some pictures up when it's all done, you're more than welcome to take it for a stroll at some stage to see if it's an improvement on stock.

I'd love to try it out next time. Might encourage me to do more to mine.

[Damien_Toman]

How did you, and your team mate for the 2-hour, find the handling on the 14/15 Nov practice and race days?

[Henk]

How did you, and your team mate for the 2-hour, find the handling on the 14/15 Nov practice and race days?

Handling was OK. Seemed to stick better with slicks although that might be a mental thing the 4mm offset on the GSXR wheels seems to make no difference. Definitely a bit better now that it has forks that aren't bent. Managed to get the left peg down into the infield without the skateboard wheels so grip wasn't a problem in the dry at least.
I think most improvement will be gained by growing bigger kahunas and getting my head around the fact that I can fire it into corners faster and get on the gas earlier on the way out and probably learn some better lines. Still think I can gear it down a bit further, but it will have to be with rear sprocket not front unless I can find a handy cross reference somewhere that lets me spec a 12 tooth front.
All up a good fun weekend, I'll probably never be one of the fast guys but I'm having a huge time battling with the other guys about my pace. That held with the old bike as well as the FXR, the new bike is just a bit easier to play with since I know where I'm starting from. To be honest I'm enjoying playing with it in the garage almost as much as riding it and I figure that I might as well try and turn it into a proper little race bike even if I'm never going to be fast.

[Damien_Toman]

I run a 12-tooth front sprocket. My brother had that fitted before I picked up the bike in Kaiapoi. Not sure what it is. Needed a washer/spacer I think.

This doesn't look too slow to me: see photo of Henk on the new, under development, FXR150.

[Damien_Toman]

See photos. Examples using brass pipe and also brass solid rod. I bent some copper sheet to make a solder bath that melts very quickly with the blow-torch. The cable end should be stronger than a bought one, I reckon. :woohoo:

[Damien_Toman]

The clutch cable is a bit short too but it works if I run it under the tank. I may decide to make a longer cable for it too.

The brake hose is also short but might just be OK. I have placed a bid on a braided brake line that would be much better.

[Damien_Toman]

I recently made up new clutch cable for my FXR150 ( Dellorto's former one).
Just the ones you get from the bike shop ( Cycletreads) and cut and solder the nipple on.

Yes, I have now bought that "universal" clutch kit and might need to use it. Great price at Cycletreads. Pity they did not have an equivalent universal throttle cable - made my own with cable from the bike breakers about 50 metres away from Cycletreads (down the alleyway). Good place for parts.

[Damien_Toman]

The clutch cable is a bit short too but it works if I run it under the tank. I may decide to make a longer cable for it too.

The brake hose is also short but might just be OK. I have placed a bid on a braided brake line that would be much better.

...... Won the bid :). Still to pick up.

[Henk]

Curious about the braided line. Let me know what you think of it once you've tried it. The front picks on mine are a bit wooden in any case and I suspect braided lines might give me more power but even less feel.

[Damien_Toman]

The line is now fitted. I need to finish bleeding it and securing it to the forks. I would expect a more precise fell with the braided line - less spongy.

[woodyracer]

The line is now fitted. I need to finish bleeding it and securing it to the forks.

looking good damien, are you going to come to royshill to test them out??

[Damien_Toman]

I'll probably wait till I have my new slicks before trying out far-away circuits like Roys Hill. I'll definitely have the new slicks for the Taupo bucket GP :) - after Christmas. Henk has loaned me some used ones for the next Mt Wellington (19-20 Dec) meeting if mine don't arrive in time. You going? Which bike/number do you ride? At Mt Wellington?

[woodyracer]

I'll probably wait till I have my new slicks before trying out far-away circuits like Roys Hill. I'll definitely have the new slicks for the Taupo bucket GP :) - after Christmas. Henk has loaned me some used ones for the next Mt Wellington (19-20 Dec) meeting if mine don't arrive in time. You going? Which bike/number do you ride? At Mt Wellington?

im dellorto {max} i forgot my old password and email {:crybaby:}

[Damien_Toman]

Hi Max. You were going well here on the Honda 125 at Mt Wellington:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/dty1/4146637972/sizes/o/
I should be working on my bike rather than sitting in front of the computer!
Regards

[woodyracer]

Hi Max. You were going well here on the Honda 125 at Mt Wellington:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/dty1/4146637972/sizes/o/
I should be working on my bike rather than sitting in front of the computer!
Regards

yer thanks, the bike realy seems to fit me, since ive got rid of the fxr my lap times around mt wellington have gone from a 36 sec lap to a 31 sec lap, so im very happy with the bike.

you better get back to work on the bike then :scooter: -Max

[Damien_Toman]

The FXR150 now with the dirtbike bars and slicks. Looking forward to Mt Wellington at the weekend. Still working on XR jetting.

All the photos:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/dty1/sets/72157623369534798/detail/

[woodyracer]

The FXR150 now with the dirtbike bars and slicks. Looking forward to Mt Wellington at the weekend. Still working on XR jetting.

All the photos:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/dty1/sets/72157623369534798/detail/

i like you handle-bars.....great idea, when i had a sat on your bike it felt very natural. One good looking fxr damien, done nay engien mod? or is it still stock?

[Damien_Toman]

Stock everything except the new bars and a new (old) XR carb just added. Not tested it with new carb on the track. Still working on jetting. Exhaust still standard. I'm interested in ideas about opening it up a bit if that is likely to help. A wider down-pipe maybe? Taking out restrictions inside? I now have a welder - just need to practice with it! :)

[Damien_Toman]

The only thing I can think of is that you might want to make sure your throttle cable and brake line are going to be long enough to reach the new bars before you start drilling holes. Other than that I can't see any issues.

Well, of course, you nailed it! I needed a new throttle cable, new front brake line and I needed to modify the clutch cable (the metal right-angled bend had to go). It was all worth it though. I just did the clutch cable yesterday.

[woodyracer]

get some made up pipe from custom chambers and weld it together with a pit bike muffler then your good.

[Damien_Toman]

Sounds interesting. Any sources for a suitable pitbike muffler? Would it feel much more powerful than the standard exhaust? I'm not worried about weight at this stage - I still have speedo, ignition key, starter motor and battery.

[Damien_Toman]

Curious about the braided line. Let me know what you think of it once you've tried it. The front picks on mine are a bit wooden in any case and I suspect braided lines might give me more power but even less feel.

The braided line has a better feel, it is more precise and is not so spongy - just as I expected.