Shinko tyres?

[kermitt]

ive seen some good deals on this brand but dont know anything bout them, has anyone had any good/bad experiences with this brand?

[Sidewinder]

ive seen some good deals on this brand but dont know anything bout them, has anyone had any good/bad experiences with this brand?

like all things in life, things that are cheap are shit!

[Subike]

I use stinkos on my XS1100. its a very heavy bike, and it makes the shitkos work hard. I have had no problems with these tyres, but I would not use them on a light or small bike as they are more a heavy duty tyre in my opinion.
Really good for the tractors out there

[Sidewinder]

shinko's are the control tyre in ozzy for motards last i herd

[one fast tl1ooo]

BAD ... REAL BAD. When i got my tl1000 it had one on the back.. One good thing.. It would wheelspin at 200kph in the wet.. No 2 it would break sideways aswell.. that not so good... :lol:

[Sidewinder]

BAD ... REAL BAD. When i got my tl1000 it had one on the back.. One good thing.. It would wheelspin at 200kph in the wet.. No 2 it would break sideways aswell.. that not so good... :lol:

sounds like fun? what model shinko

[EJT]

Had some on my first bike (Hyosung). Ok in the dry but not the best in the wet. Very long lasting though. Was up to 15k and still heaps of tread. On a 250 admittedly.

[Sidewinder]

Had some on my first bike (Hyosung). Ok in the dry but not the best in the wet. Very long lasting though. Was up to 15k and still heaps of tread. On a 250 admittedly.

yea but it make sence to put shit rubber on a shit bike from factory tho

[CookMySock]

They are ok when hot and dry, but are emphatically NOT to be trusted in the wet.

I have had a two go faulty. One developed a bulge and one split at the join.

Steve

[Juzz976]

The cheap ones are not so great in the wet and cold and even when they are dry and warm up not so great. Although I had some older style shinkos that were ok.

I found the cheapo Kenda to be better and same price, softer compound so they wont last as long as the shinko but I found the shinko looses traction enough that it will probably reduce their life anyway.
Feel alot safer on hard leans with the kenda - noting they needed more scrubbing in time.

Shinko do a range so pay more get more too as they do make some good tires.

[PeterJ]

I have got one on the back of my RF at the moment, as someone else said alright when hot and dry, in the rain it is ok as long as you ride sensibly( just as you would normally) got to be easy on the throttle when leaned over!.

They are good for the money that you pay for them. Seems to be lasting forever. As long as you are aware of them in the rain they are fine.

[Sidewinder]

I have got one on the back of my RF at the moment, as someone else said alright when hot and dry, in the rain it is ok as long as you ride sensibly( just as you would normally) got to be easy on the throttle when leaned over!.

They are good for the money that you pay for them. Seems to be lasting forever. As long as you are aware of them in the rain they are fine.

you realy need to get out more dude:shifty:<_<:shifty:<_<:shifty:<_<:shifty:<_<

[dogsnbikes]

ive seen some good deals on this brand but dont know anything bout them, has anyone had any good/bad experiences with this brand?

Like any tyre depends on your use I have shinko's on my Bold'or and the main riding is commuting between Wanganui and Wgtn for that they are perfect wet or dry never had a problem

would I put then on the Daytona? No because I am stoked with my pilots and have the perfect combination for our I ride the daytona

if you have ever used Yokohama tires in the past and enjoyed them your enjoy the shinko's as they are the same tyre just renamed,its the name shinko that make's the tyre sound bad:innocent:

[AllanB]

They are ok when hot and dry, but are emphatically NOT to be trusted in the wet. One developed a bulge and one split at the join.

Steve

What are you drinking tonight Steve - he's talking about tyres not your love life!

[Sidewinder]

What are you drinking tonight Steve - he's talking about tyres not your love life!

gay love? sory or was that hyosung and or shinco? get confused there all so simlar

[scott411]

shinkos are good for the money you pay for them, we have sold them to a wide range of different bikes and they seem to last well, and the owners have been happy,

if you are after all out perfromance look at something else, but for a economy sports touring tire they are pretty good value for money

[avgas]

Shinko's are a great tyre. Warm they stick like shit to a blanket and cold they are a shit load of fun (anyone who say's else doesn't have the skill).
When you get used to them they are surprisingly predictable. My thou was great for kicking the back out - what a hoot.
They also offer great value for money.

Shinko's would have to be the best wet weather tyre I have used.

[avgas]

if you are after all out perfromance look at something else, but for a economy sports touring tire they are pretty good value for money

When warm, I would argue they are better than Bridge-stones and Pirellis.
You can quote me on that if you wish.
-Stew

[T.W.R]

shinkos are good for the money you pay for them, we have sold them to a wide range of different bikes and they seem to last well, and the owners have been happy,

if you are after all out perfromance look at something else, but for a economy sports touring tire they are pretty good value for money

+1 :yes:

Got a R009RR on the rear & a Advance 005 on the front of the GS. The rear has just clocked up 14500kms.... hasn't had an easy life but it's survived well, not totally predictable when it decides to break loose but controlable all the same. haven't had any issues in the wet with it but if you push hard in the wet you need your head read anyhow.
The front tyre isn't that confidence inspiring though and feels a bit vague without a lot of feedback.... think due to the fact the chevrons run the opposite direction to the majority of front tyre patterns

[Mishy]

+1 :yes:

. haven't had any issues in the wet with it but if you push hard in the wet you need your head read anyhow.
The front tyre isn't that confidence inspiring though and feels a bit vague without a lot of feedback.... think due to the fact the chevrons run the opposite direction to the majority of front tyre patterns

Yeah, I'm with you on the wet thing !

As far as feel and confidence go, that's what you get with a quality tyre, not with the bottom of the price range - simple and inarguable.

[oldrider]

I am running Shinko tyres on my Tiger, a few new brand teething problems but so far they are proving great value! :niceone:

[Elysium]

They're crap tyres for road bikes. Have one my front wheel on the VTR and can say the grip on rough road is poor and they also take long to warm up.

[PeterJ]

you realy need to get out more dude

Huh?..............

[dogsnbikes]

They're crap tyres for road bikes. Have one my front wheel on the VTR and can say the grip on rough road is poor and they also take long to warm up.

If your running mismatched rubber on any bike,it will handle like shite:bash:The fact it was on a VTR only enhances the problem :yawn:

[davebullet]

The only person I've ever heard rate shitko tyres is the guy in Bikerider magazine (every month). Infact his tread never seems to wear in the ad from month to month (which must mean no grip).

Don't go cheap on tyres. It won't help your confidence and could lead to a bin which good tyres and confidence might save you from. A bin = much more costly than $200 extra on quality rubbers.

[meowmix]

The more expensive Shinkos are great for drags, but like the rest of the line, rubbish in the wet (in the traditional "Sliding is bad" sense).
They just haven't advanced in compounds as much as the other brands, but are reasonable when used right. Make sure to heat them thoroughly before taking corners at any sort of lean, and they take a while to heat. Be prepared to slide in the wet, controlling it isn't an issue it happens that much.
I know mismatching tyres is devil talk but if you have a nice expensive sticky in wet and dry type front, slapping a Shinko on the rear will yeild very fun results, at a low cost.

As long as you don't stack, of course.

[idleidolidyll]

ive seen some good deals on this brand but dont know anything bout them, has anyone had any good/bad experiences with this brand?

Kermit: there's nothing like trying something yourself.

I'd read all about people's opinion of Shinkos but in fact it seemed very few had actually tried them. I used to race Yokohamas in the distant past and won a lot of club races on em plus a few good finishes in bigger events. Shinko took over from Yokohama so they started where Yoko left off.
That being the case I discarded the unauthoritative opinion and put a set on my BMW F800S. I put on the 'touring' version as the Beemer is my two up/distance bike.

The first thing you'd notice is that the rear profile is strange. The front seems OK but the rear has an odd flattened out profile but with a nice curve at the edges. It makes them slow steering and they need a bit of effort to get leaned over.
After a while I understood what this was all about: where other brands go for multi compounds, the Shinko touring rear just puts a bigger strip of rubber on the ground when the bike is vertical or not leaned too far: that gives it reasonable wear characteristics.
I took the bike out with a few of my harder charging friends and, after I'd sorted out the right tyre pressures for the day, the bike and my riding style, I started getting into the swing of them.
I'm not gonna tell you they are the sportiest, stickiest tyres you can buy because they're not: they are touring tyres. However, I was more than surprised at their grip and rideability.
In the end I'd probably see what deals I can get on multi compound tyres next time but the Shinkos are actually as good as many name brand touring tyres out there. They were good in the wet, dry and handled well with good feel. It's just that I prefer sport tyres.

The only minus really was that when the rear tyre WAS worn out, it went 'off' very quickly and I'd never try to take one past it's wear limits or to near canvas as I have with Metzlers, Pirellis etc.

If you are not thinking about playing Casey Stoner on the bike; these tyres are very good value for money and if the sport version is as good as these are; I might be tempted to try those teardrop Shinkos next time.

[motorbyclist]

now I can't speak for heavy bikes, but if it's a small machine and you want something reliable in an emergency albeit at higher cost-per-km, don't buy the shinko and save instead on the repair bill.

same for kendas.

and anything else made of nylon.

this includes those "cheng shing" things on my little h100 - they're the factory tyres from 1986 and still warrantable after 35000km, but are shit even when dry (but that might be due to age;))

[kermitt]

thanks guys i guess on my budget ill have to give em a try and if they aint that good theyl be an trademe soon.

[CRM]

Just doing a trip down the Island on my WeeStrom - on Shinko E705's - and noticed a few cracks starting to develop under the treads :gob:. Should I be worried? Anybody else had this problem with the E705s?

[nico]

i guess every one to their own i run shiko's 005 rate them very well yes they are a hard compound take a lil warming up get fantastic milage out of them i dont muck about wet or dry never felt like they arent doing the job, there is probally better but for the price good . just my option ask insanty rules how i ride lol

and the milage i got from the vfr 17thu on front 15 thu on rear

[nico]

thers also many threads on here and vfrd.com about shinko's i like em so i use em the saying go's different strokes for different fokes,

[Stone_Duck]

Up front I have not ridden on Shinko's but have considered them.
My 5c worth (now that copper isn't currency), is that like many things, is that you get what you pay for, but to moderate that you do not buy supersport tyres for commuting. I have read about guys in the GSX-R/R1/R6 brigade bad mouthing then & tourers that love them. Decide what you need them for & what you can afford and go from there, but don't expect ultimate traction & ultimate mileage on a budget price.
Personally I live on the front end feel for confidence I have gone for Conti Sport Attack front & Road Attack rear & love them , I am hoping they wear out about the same, these were $550 fitted.

[oldrider]

Just doing a trip down the Island on my WeeStrom - on Shinko E705's - and noticed a few cracks starting to develop under the treads :gob:. Should I be worried? Anybody else had this problem with the E705s?

Should you be worried?

Yes you should, what pressures are you running in your tyres?

How many km have you done on them?

You should be covered for replacement by the importer, if it has gone too far!

[CRM]

Should you be worried?

Yes you should, what pressures are you running in your tyres?

How many km have you done on them?

You should be covered for replacement by the importer, if it has gone too far!

I bought the bike with the Shinkos on it, and either didn't notice the cracks (they are just at one part of the tyre) or they have developed in the last 2000km since I've had the bike. The pressures seem okay - about 33. Looking at other forums it seems like there is a fault with these that Shinko will fix, but no idea where the previous owner bought them. In the meantime I'm just keeping speed down a bit and not riding hard - heading up to Auckland today so may pop in to Cycletreads and see if they can help me.

I'm really not impressed my the feel of the front tyre in particular - it's as if you're wearing a gumboot - reliable but not much feedback from the road which doesn't make for confident riding.

[oldrider]

I bought the bike with the Shinkos on it, and either didn't notice the cracks (they are just at one part of the tyre) or they have developed in the last 2000km since I've had the bike. The pressures seem okay - about 33. Looking at other forums it seems like there is a fault with these that Shinko will fix, but no idea where the previous owner bought them. In the meantime I'm just keeping speed down a bit and not riding hard - heading up to Auckland today so may pop in to Cycletreads and see if they can help me.

I'm really not impressed my the feel of the front tyre in particular - it's as if you're wearing a gumboot - reliable but not much feedback from the road which doesn't make for confident riding.

Have a look here for some interesting stuff on your Shinko's! http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?p=11586075#post11586075

I will give you the local importer's contact details if you want them PM me.

[motorbyclist]

Have a look here for some interesting stuff on your Shinko's! http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?p=11586075#post11586075


apart from the obvious handling questions of running that profile tyre, does that rider realise that if he actually rides on gravel (and judging by the bash plate and tyres he at least like to think he might) his modifications mean he's liable to put a rock through his rocker cover and there's now nothing to stop stones from other vehicles chipping the chrome on his forks?

:bash:

[oldrider]

apart from the obvious handling questions of running that profile tyre, does that rider realise that if he actually rides on gravel (and judging by the bash plate and tyres he at least like to think he might) his modifications mean he's liable to put a rock through his rocker cover and there's now nothing to stop stones from other vehicles chipping the chrome on his forks?

:bash:

True!

There are a few others on there who have done something similar but I think he has got his front one on back to front for braking grip and grip clearing!

He did say he was now able to put the mudflap back on to protect his engine!

He doesn't appear to have done much gravel or off road riding so whatever he encounters will be all new to him, will he know any difference!

You go gravel you expect stone bruises here and there, better on the bike than on your bum! :whistle:

[CRM]

Have a look here for some interesting stuff on your Shinko's! http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?p=11586075#post11586075

I will give you the local importer's contact details if you want them PM me.

I phoned Road & Sport in Hamilton yesterday while I was on the road coming up from Opotiki as they are listed as Shinko dealers. They phoned the distributors who said that this has been an issue on some of these tyres but it was just cosmetic and not dangerous :confused:. So I kept going and it hasn't got any worse so i guess I'll just keep using them till they wear out. They're not ideal for road use but they are supposed to be 25/75% offroad/onroad so I guess that's what you would expect.

[Muppet]

like all things in life, things that are cheap are shit!

You got that right. I'm just not prepared to put cheap tyres on a motorbike.

[geoffc]

Hi CRM. It is my view that your tire is showing a fault called delamination. It is misleading & not correct to state that it is just cosmetic. It can progress and get worse leading to total failure of the tire. I worked in the Tire industry for a number of years. Get the issue sorted quickly, it is not safe.

[DarkLord]

Stinkos are the stock tyres on the Hyo GT250Rs.

Horrible tyres, half plastic.

Must be gotten rid of at once.

[gammaguy]

Just doing a trip down the Island on my WeeStrom - on Shinko E705's - and noticed a few cracks starting to develop under the treads :gob:. Should I be worried? Anybody else had this problem with the E705s?

maybe there is a reason Suzuki specify Radials,and the Shinko you fitted just happens to not be?

yez gets whats yez pays for.

[StoneY]

My brother has Shinko's on his Trophy 1200, daily commuter and weekend tourer is the prupose

While he didnt get the super cheap version he didnt get the top one either, but seems to have a good tread, slightly harder compound than I myself prefer, but hell he gets around, never lets go, rides every day any weather

I run Pilot Sports on my ST4 and Pilot Roads on my GSXR with road2 version on back (hard center strip)

Moving to Conti Sports on next set for ST tho

Each to thier own, my brother cant see why I spend 3x the cost of his entire setup on each of my front tyres, but thats why we are bikers isnt it? Individuality

:apint:

[awa355]

ive seen some good deals on this brand but dont know anything bout them, has anyone had any good/bad experiences with this brand?

Shinko as far as I know, was known as Yokohama. I had one fitted to the rear of my CBF 250F about 4000 ks ago and thought at the time, it diid not have a lot of tread depth. It has stuck to the road like shit to a blanket. Even in the wet. This week I am replacing it as the tread is worn down across the centre. Plenty of meat on the sides but the centre is where the tyre does its gripping under brakes. Am really disappointed in the wear rate but for grip it has been great. The 250 is only a light single and I'm not aggressive at all so the mileage has been disappointing.

A foot note; Have been told that I may well have been sold a fairly new partly used tyre ,scrubbed up and looking like new. Not sure but that would explain the low tread depth and short life. Apparently some Hyosung 250 owners would upgrade the originals before wearing them out. The dealer who sold it said that new tyres these days dont come with a deep tread depth when I queried this. I should've looked a bit harder.
A friend wanted a 16" front for his FJ 1200 and a Shinko was the only brand he could locate.

[Guitana]

Personally I get the best tyre for the type of riding I do alot of, a bit of touring and some fast weekend riding on the tukkas. Whatever you do dont settle for the cheapest the most important thing on a bike between you and the road is the rubber on your rims! It has to suit your riding style and the type of bike your'e riding. Spend the extra hundred and get some quality you wont regret it!

[avgas]

If your running mismatched rubber on any bike,it will handle like shite:
Not entirely true. I have had some truely great combo's.
ZXR400 ran lurvely on battleaxe front with pirelli rear. hell of a lot better than if i had the same tyre on both.
98 955i was nice with pirrelli front and battleaxe rear.
05 955i is lower and sportier and was nice with avon rear with battleaxe front.

[simonnn]

You can get a lot better tyres foir very little more

[CRM]

Hi CRM. It is my view that your tire is showing a fault called delamination. It is misleading & not correct to state that it is just cosmetic. It can progress and get worse leading to total failure of the tire. I worked in the Tire industry for a number of years. Get the issue sorted quickly, it is not safe.

Seems you are very correct and Shinko will not be getting any of my business...

I did a trip last week to Cambridge (from Whangarei) - a fair bit of open road reasonable speed stuff and I start hearing this sound like a flapping piece of material. I stop and check and everthing looks fine so I turn up the iPod and keep going. When I get home this is what I find...193482193483

So if they tell you it's just cosmetic show them these pics. Fortunately the tyres are not that confidence inspiring anyway so I wasn't pushing it. I'm thinking Michelin Anakees...

[Crasherfromwayback]

Nothing wrong with them! The motard slicks are good enough to win on too.

[pritch]

Not entirely true. I have had some truely great combo's..

There are problems with that though. What if you find out real sudden like that your combo isn't any good?
Even if you find out in non-dramatic fashion that the combo isn't great, you now have to buy yet another tyre.

I was just reading recently that the biggest difference between tyres is carcase design. There's nothing about that on the sidewall, that only leaves guesswork. Good luck!

Tyres are just too expensive and important to take chances. I'd rather have better tyres than I need than need better tyres than I have got.

[Crasherfromwayback]

Tyres are just too expensive and important to take chances.

I reckon tyres are really cheap. Compared to fairing panels and loss of limb/life!

[quickbuck]

Two very different points of view that really amount to the same thing......

Tyres - Not worth mucking around with experiments.....

[puddytat]

Tyres are just too expensive and important to take chances. I'd rather have better tyres than I need than need better tyres than I have got.

Cant fault that logic....

[CRM]

Seems you are very correct and Shinko will not be getting any of my business...

I did a trip last week to Cambridge (from Whangarei) - a fair bit of open road reasonable speed stuff and I start hearing this sound like a flapping piece of material. I stop and check and everthing looks fine so I turn up the iPod and keep going. When I get home this is what I find...193482193483

So if they tell you it's just cosmetic show them these pics. Fortunately the tyres are not that confidence inspiring anyway so I wasn't pushing it. I'm thinking Michelin Anakees...

Just an update... I sent the tyre to Whites (the Wholesalers) and they have kindly agreed that it was faulty and are sending through a new replacement. So big ups to them :clap:.

I've got new Michelin Anakee 2's on it and just done a trip to Hamilton and back and they are superb (but twice the price of Shinko's :eek5:).

So if anyone wants to buy a set of Shinko's for a V-Strom (new rear and near-new front) give me a holler :yes:

[tmkaos]

I have a Shinko on the back of my Yamaha FJ1200. With me on it and a full tank I'm pushing 370kg, and the Shinko hasn't given me any grief. Good grip wet or dry, and I can lay her over and scrape the centre stand without worrying about it. I'd buy another. :-)

[oldrider]

My rear Shinko 705 has finally bit the dust at 3323 miles, the de lamination has finally failed me a warrant!

The importers Whites and Shinko have acknowledged that there is a problem with these tyres on the big venture bikes!

Shinko are developing a new tyre to suit the weight and power of the big bikes on which they will keep me posted, so I will keep KB posted. (and vice versa I hope)

Apart from the rear tyre delamination, I found everything else about the 705 to be just what I want for my bike and am really sorry to have to replace it.

I will put either a Tourance or a Anakee (whatever is available) to replace it and leave the front 705 on until I find out how they run together! Here's hoping they go well!

I don't rate either of the above tyres as much as Pirelli scorpion ST's but all of them are way over priced for what they are anyway. IMHO.

I have to say I have found both Whites and Shinko to be extremely helpful and customer focused at all times and I look forward to dealing with them again, soon!

[Bannockbiker]

I have just had a rear tyre issue where 5 of the tread blocks have delaminated from the casing. The bike started shaking around - no wonder. It was fitted in Dunedin when there was no other stock - never again - will stick to Anakees or Tourances for V-Stroms. The tyre was fitted to a DL1000 V-Strom, and less than half worn.

[NordieBoy]

I have just had a rear tyre issue where 5 of the tread blocks have delaminated from the casing. The bike started shaking around - no wonder. It was fitted in Dunedin when there was no other stock - never again - will stick to Anakees or Tourances for V-Stroms. The tyre was fitted to a DL1000 V-Strom, and less than half worn.

It was a bias ply one wasn't it.
Shinko are replacing them with radials for no charge.

The radials have not had any such issues.

[AllanB]

So Shinko means Shit?

[NordieBoy]

So Shinko means Shit?

The same way Honda means Homo.

[nallac]

The same way Honda means Homo.


So thats a YES......

[NordieBoy]

So thats a YES......

And the way Buell means Spuell...




It's the best I can do alright...

[Winston001]

The same way Honda means Homo.

That's the one. :niceone: The OP has a Honda as well. Should have stuck to BMW or Ducati. :rolleyes:

[NordieBoy]

Just got another Shinko 705 for the back of the DR650 and a front and rear of the same for the TT350 on the way.

www.bits4bikes.co.nz has 20% off Shinko's this month.

:woohoo:

[Drew]

I run the top end Shinko on the front of my RF900. It has great grip wet or dry (don't get me wrong, it's no Supercorsa), and the most positive feed back I've ever experienced.

Jay Lawrence will also attest that they are bloody good.

Interesting fact. Shinko had been running very old equipment and churning out ten year old Yokahama technology for at least a decade. Continental howerver, having trouble producing the demanded numbers went in and retro fitted the Shinko factory with new plant. In a deal that they could have a certain amount of use for the facility to bump their output.
Since then Shinko have been able to produce a modern tyre economically and are therefore getting close to the level Yokahama were compared to other brands in the nineties before they moved to concentrate on car tyres.

[Owl]

I run the top end Shinko on the front of my RF900. It has great grip wet or dry (don't get me wrong, it's no Supercorsa), and the most positive feed back I've ever experienced.

Would that be the 003 or 010?

[Drew]

Would that be the 003 or 010?

Dunno, the tread pattern looks like a Pilot sport kinda. I bought it because I was broke and anything would be better than what I was taking off. Now I'll be buying them again because they are good value and stick like hell.

[Owl]

Dunno, the tread pattern looks like a Pilot sport kinda. I bought it because I was broke and anything would be better than what I was taking off. Now I'll be buying them again because they are good value and stick like hell.

Sounds like the 005:shit:

[Drew]

Sounds like the 005:shit:

I don't think they are still using the Yokahama names are they?

But seriously, I'm a convert. The Shinko on the front held up to me racing the Cliffhanger road race hill climb WAY better than the Bridgstone 016 on the rear, which over heated like a bastard and slid around all over the place. To qualify that a bit, I came second in the event to a 2010 R1.

[sil3nt]

Have a shinko 006 on the back of my NC30. Almost as bad as my IRCs i had on my GPX. Fine in the dry turns to shit in the wet.

[driftn]

Shinko's cant be that bad as Drew said he came second up the hill climb with one on the front of his rf also there is not many people can catch him over the Rimutakas, and if they really were that bad would the California super bike school in oz be running them on all of there gsxr's?. I have even considered trying them out on my zx6 this coming winter series.

[sil3nt]

What type of shinko though? I am sure they make more than one tyre! I only have experience of the 006.

The RF900 can run quite a few different shinko tyres

http://www.bits4bikes.co.nz/parts/suzuki/821.aspx scroll to the bottom

[Drew]

Shinko 010 Apex.

It's friggin mint I tells ya.

There are I'm sure a host of shinko tyres I wouldn't touch with a fourty foot pole, but these critters a good.

[avgas]

Shinko's are a great tyre....
Funny me saying this years ago.
And all the others out there hating on me for it.

Eat your words bitches!

[Owl]

I may have to try them out one day.......just as soon as I get through my supply of cheap proper tyres.:D

[ynot slow]

I may have to try them out one day.......just as soon as I get through my supply of cheap proper tyres.:D

Same old story,good value according to some,shit to others,and my 2c is that for another $100 set I can have PR2 over 005?.At moment prices for $499 set fitted for Pirelli is better value than Shinko.

[Drew]

$499 set fitted for Pirelli is better value than Shinko.
Pirelli, but what model tyre?

If I had my choice of tyre it's supercorsas. They are the shit as far as I'm concerned. But I needed a tyre quick, and I was broke so the Shinko went on and I don't regret it at all.

Tyres are definitely cheaper than fairings, and the pain in ones wallet is nothing compared to that of falling off. But through total lack of options I discovered that the Shinko 010 is a GREAT tyre. Wears well, sticks well, and gives heaps of feed back when you're punting it through the turns.

So if you can't stretch the extra $50, (and most the time I know I can't), you are pretty safe with these.

Disclaimer, I haven't ridden on a rear Shinko yet. I know it'll be better than the BT016 I've got now, but the way I ride is hard on rear tyres so I'll have to let you know.

[R1madness]

Hey Drew try the rears as well mate. They are fine. I have gone thru 3 sets of them on my GSXR1000. Last well, grip well wet or dry, good feel.

[NordieBoy]

Rode the TT350 with the Shinko 705's in anger(ish) for the first time yesterday.
Clay, gravel, trialsing up rivers, tree crossings, shale slopes, sunny, pissing rain...

Similar to trials tyres*, if there's something to grip on, they'll find it.

They did it all. With bells on.




*But the trials tyres take grip to a whole new level of insanity of course.

[Drew]

Hey Drew try the rears as well mate. They are fine. I have gone thru 3 sets of them on my GSXR1000. Last well, grip well wet or dry, good feel.

All going well, I'm racing the RF on them this weekend at round one of the winter series this weekend.

[R1madness]

Go back and read my post from the early pages mate. They WILL NOT provide you with the outright grip of the super corsas but ride smooth and let them warm up well and you will be fine. Try 32psi front and 28 rear cold. Yea i know its much higher than the pirellis run at the rear but they dont behave like them in terms of flex and heat. I found them to be springy at 30f & 27R.

[Drew]

Go back and read my post from the early pages mate. They WILL NOT provide you with the outright grip of the super corsas but ride smooth and let them warm up well and you will be fine. Try 32psi front and 28 rear cold. Yea i know its much higher than the pirellis run at the rear but they dont behave like them in terms of flex and heat. I found them to be springy at 30f & 27R.

I said exactly the same thing about grip levels, but I maintain that the feed back from them is so good they can be held closer to their limit in confidence. I know to run them higher in pressure too, they are a road tyre.

Should all go to plan, I will be racing on them purely to get word out that they are not shit. I know they are pretty good, but I'm having trouble convincing some others. So I'll take the whale out wearing a pair and see what happens at the track.

If it's dry and cold like most of the Vic club rounds are, then the harder road compound will work in my favour too. I'm not implying there's any chance I can win a superbike race on a Shinko shod RF900 (I couldn't manage that on a 190Hp gixxer built for Chris Haldane even), but I hope to surprise a few people.

[R1madness]

Yep as a club level tire they are good as anything. Infact most people would prob benifit from them because they are VERY perdictable when they do push. So many people cant see past the brand name. Shinko used to be Yokohama before the Kobe (japan) quake in the early 90s which bestroyed their motorcycle tyre plant. Check out some of the tread patterns like 003s and 005s easly recognisable to us guys froom back then.... Yokos won 250 proddy and F3 as well as good finishes in 250GP and 600 prody. Some of the F1 (superbike now) guys even ran the yoko slicks here in NZ back then and the new stuff is VERY similar in its behaviour they just stick better.

[Kickaha]

Shinko used to be Yokohama before the Kobe (japan) quake in the early 90s which destroyed their motorcycle tyre plant.

Shinko used to be Shinko, they bought the molds and technology off Yokohama but are a totally separate company

Wasn't that RSV4 Aprillia that got tossed away at Ruapuna a while back on them :whistle:

[R1madness]

Shinko used to be Shinko, they bought the molds and technology off Yokohama but are a totally separate company

Wasn't that RSV4 Aprillia that got tossed away at Ruapuna a while back on them :whistle:

Yea it was an RSV4factory. He was doing low 1.33s on them, not bad for a club racer when the lap record is 1.30 flat.... actually that time would have put him about 6th at the nationals... Problem was he was practising sliding wheelstands out of the dipper, (never recommended) and decided to use 2nd gear rather than first like he had been doing all day and went out without the warmers on beforehand (unlike the rest of the day). I talked to him a lot about the crash and he blaims being tired (last session of the day) and cocky for the crash. NOT the tires.

[Kickaha]

Yea it was an RSV4factory. He was doing low 1.33s on them, not bad for a club racer when the lap record is 1.30 flat.... actually that time would have put him about 6th at the nationals..

Next time you talk to him can you ask where I can buy a stop watch like that

[hayd3n]

i manage to pull stoppies on my shitco so ill buy it again

[Drew]

Next time you talk to him can you ask where I can buy a stop watch like that

They all work like that, you just have to adjust them. This is achieved by hitting the "stop" button before the rider reaches the same point on the track, at which you hit the "start" button.

[racefactory]

Shinko is fine, knee down and stoppies no worries. Can not say the same for shitty Bridgestone Cyrox! Not sure about rain though, anyone?

[ducatilover]

Shinko is fine, knee down and stoppies no worries. Can not say the same for shitty Bridgestone Cyrox! Not sure about rain though, anyone?
The Shinko on the back of my CB400 can skid up in second out of hairpins in the dry and it isn't recommended to full throttle in anything under 4th in the wet and even then....That's with 55rwhp :facepalm:

The worst part about that is, I don't even ride that fast or hard.

[NordieBoy]

The Shinko on the back of my CB400 can skid up in second out of hairpins in the dry and it isn't recommended to full throttle in anything under 4th in the wet and even then....That's with 55rwhp :facepalm:

Fine in the wet for me and 25hp.
<img src=http://sports.nelson.geek.nz/motorsport/mybikes/Trips/20110508%20Wet%20NADS/slides/20110508-152642-0019.jpg>

[ducatilover]

Probably a sliiiiiightly different Shinko on yours...:innocent:

[NordieBoy]

Probably a sliiiiiightly different Shinko on yours...:innocent:

Still quite roady...
<img src=http://sports.nelson.geek.nz/motorsport/mybikes/TT350/20110507%20Screening/slides/20110509-105540-0002.jpg>

[ducatilover]

I can't remember what model name mine is, but, it's the second one I've had, the first was on a VT250 Spada and it really wasn't very nice at all :facepalm:For the record I didn't buy either of them...

[NordieBoy]

I can't remember what model name mine is, but, it's the second one I've had, the first was on a VT250 Spada and it really wasn't very nice at all :facepalm:For the record I didn't buy either of them...

:love: I loved the Shinko's I ran on my VT250 :o

[ducatilover]

:love: I loved the Shinko's I ran on my VT250 :o
I'm sure they have done a decent tire. I found the IRC RX-01 to be heinous crap, but, some people say they are great, might be a riding style thing? I like my Sport Demons and am going to try Maxxis Supermaxx next :yes:

[pc10]

they are crap had one on the rear of a fireblade i owned did only 800ks and had 6inch strips of rubber pealing off it

[R1madness]

I guess like all tyres it comes down to buying the right compound and construction for your bike and riding style. To tar all tires from one manufacturer with the same brush is to say that suzuki only make crap bikes because you did not like the chineese made GN250 or that all kawasakis are made by suzuki because of their tie up with the DRZ/KLX model range from a few years ago. Sure some Shinkos are not suitable but i can point you to any brand and say that their tyre is shit because the wrong compound or construction has been suggested by the retailer (in an effort to increase their margin) or purchased by the bike owner (in an effort to save 50 cents). Compare tyres that are the right ones and i am sure that you will be (happily) suprised by the Shinkos.
Oh and no i dont get an extra margin for selling them, in fact i made less on Shinkos than any other brand but they offer good value for money (for most people)

[racefactory]

A very good review of the 006's... Shinkos are really all the average person needs for the road. Label bashers need to give them a chance.


Shinko Tires - Test/Review
OK, this brand has been somewhat controversial, so I decided to try them just to see...

The truth is that in recent years I've been "economically challenged" (read: mostly broke).
I needed new tires, and since my current bike (1994 VFR750) takes a 170 rear on a 5" rim, RTO's (180 race take-offs) were essentially not an option.

What's the least expensive decent tire I can get?
I decided the retreads (forget the name) were out of the question; I wanted to at least have the security of tires manufactured as cohesive units.

A bit of research over the last few months (anticipating the need for replacements) revealed a brand I had not previously heard of, the Shinkos.
Rumor has it that Shinko is a major/huge Korean industrial manufacturer, that purchased the technology, molds, rubber compound chemistry, etc. from Yokohama when they ceased production of motorcycle tires.
*I have not been able to substantiate this*.
Yokohama has long been a major player in the tire game, including various forms of motor racing.

The Shinko's price was significantly less than the next-best-thing; they'll have to do.
Besides, I'm a curious type, and consider myself objective, pragmatic and realistic.
I'm not especially brand loyal for bikes or anything else - I simply demand function. I want things that work.

A little history:
I've been riding street/sportbikes at a very high level for more than 25 years and around 1/2 million miles.
Almost every bit of it has been very hard & fast, in some very demanding situations, including Autobahns, Alps, Nurburgring, Spa and other racetracks.
I've likely ridden more miles 2-up, and more miles in rain than most riders have ever ridden all together.
Even 2-up and in rain I usually ride as hard as I can get away with.
I don't have a "Mellow" setting...

I ridden many Dunlop models, from K91's, K291's, K391's, etc. up to modern Qualifiers, D207's (various types) etc.
I've mostly used (& absolutely prefer) Metzelers, with extensive experience on ME77's, ME33, ME99, ME88 and newer models including Rennsports.
On my R1 (no longer own) I used primarily Pirellis (manufactured alongside sporty Metzelers nowadays), including Diablos, Diablo Corsas and SuperCorsas.
I've also had a few Michelins and Continentals in the mix, as well as any number of OEM fitments.
Bottom line - I've used everything from cheapo rim protectors, average/commuters, serious Touring tires, and many sport/supersport tires including DOT race rubber.
I've been known to slide both ends, usually intentionally, and leave blackies at will - I can push most tires as hard as they'll take.

It is with all of this in mind that I decided to take on the Shinkos.
I've got a good background of experience and knowledge for comparison.

Most importantly, I've reached an age and mindset that I'm no longer as concerned with tiny differences and perceived advantages - I just effing ride the damn thing as hard as the bike and tires will take.
I don't make excuses, and I'm somewhat amused by all the concern about "needing" the stickiest tires available, when most riders can't use the grip they have, and couldn't tell the difference anyway.
I've lately been riding my 14 year old $300- rat-bike, on Metzeler Z6 RoadTecs, alongside kids half my age on R6's with racing tires, and scraping hardware and boots doing it!

So, back to the Shinkos.
I had wanted to get the 009 Raven sport-touring model, Shinko's hardest compound/longest wearing, but when it came time (& my strained budget allowed...), I needed tires NOW.
My local FBS (friendly bike shop) had the 006 Podiums (sport tire) the next day, and I couldn't wait any longer.
They were about $200 altogether, mounted & balanced (wheels off the bike).
Link to info: http://www.shinkotireusa.com/product...php?category=1

Initial Impressions:
For break-in, I frankly wasn't all that cautious.
I'm not sure why, perhaps due to the bike's forgiving nature (although not as communicative as a real sportbike) I just didn't feel like tip-toeing.
I set the front pressure at 31, rear as 33; a little low (I usually run 33/36) to better ensure some heat build-up to speed up the process.

I rode a total of 180 miles on a 70ish degree day, almost entirely twisties.
The first 8 miles were surface streets at 40mph, and a slab section at about 65.
A 5 minute stop to fuel up (I'm always thinking about heating/cooling cycles), and immediately into some tight, slowish twisties (Skyline).
Fairly gentle on the tighter bits and the tires were fine.
After about 7 miles of twisties (15 miles total) I started to pick up the pace - cornering deeper (lean angle) but still gentle on the throttle.
At about this point I experienced a couple of minor slides; 1 each from the front and the rear.
To be fair, I was probably pushing a little harder than advisable on brand new tires with only 15 miles.
I noted an interesting characteristic to the slides - smooth, predictable and very easily recovered. Not the least bit sudden.
I've long admired Metzelers for their recoverability when just over the limit, the Shinkos seemed very comparable, although this was at a much lower speed/aggression level due to the newness.

As the day went on I steadily picked up the pace. (Apiary to 47, then 202 towards Astoria).

I later noted that the front end was extremely stable; maybe too stable...
Rock solid in a straight line, completely unaffected by whatever convolutions the road surface threw at them.

They delivered decent feedback; a little wooden compared to SS tires (not unexpectedly), but not quite as numb as the (excellent) Metz Roadtecs.
Feedback was probably on par with any other good "Sport" tire.

It did seem however, that the front tire might be heavy.
I got the sense that a big part of the rock solid stability came from increased gyro-effect from extra weight.
I'd be curious to get an actual weight comparison to other comparable front tires out there.
Turn-in/turn initiation was light and smooth, with deeper turns ramping up very nicely - they rolled in very predictably.
However, in quick left/right transitions, the front didn't want to snap from side to side as quickly as I intended.
I made a riding adjustment to anticipate this and give a solid countersteer to all turns, especially slalom stuff.
They just need a firm hand when ridden aggressively.

A couple of relevant thoughts: I didn't measure it, but by my calibrated eyeballs, the rear tire appears noticeably wider than the Metz Z6 that had just come off.
This alone will cause slower steering.
I had also made a couple of significant changes to the bike's geometry.
I had previously been riding with the Gen-Mar handlebar risers, which raise the bars 3/4'' (about 20mm), however this is accomplished by raising the the fork stanchions in the triple-clamps by the same amount.
I've long been a fan of raising fork tubes to quicken steering, but this is substantial for this bike, in fact a little too much.
So I removed the risers at the same time as the tire change, but decided to leave the stanchions raised about 3mm, instead of perfectly flush as stock - a slight increase.
Effectively lowering the fork tubes compared to what I was used to actually make the steering angle (rake) shallower and would tend to slow the steering.
That, and the lower tire pressure both may have contributed to the front end feeling a little too stable for my tastes.
To be honest, I'm probably a bit more discerning than most riders; most people probably wouldn't even notice it.

However, I've decided to raise the fork tubes back to a total of 10mm showing, in order to split the difference (coincidentally, the exact amount that worked best on the R1).
In the interest of testing, I'm not going to alter the tire pressures or suspension settings for now until I've had a chance to observe the tube height adjustment.
I suspect that increasing the tire pressures and maybe front spring rate (preload) may help minimize the heavy feeling front end.

On my ride I did some exploring and found a delightfully twisty ribbon of asphalt out near Astoria (Olney) that frankly reminded me of Christmas ribbon candy or tinsel draped over the X-Mas tree branches.
As I tend to do, I picked up the pace until I was fairly attacking an unfamiliar road, on unfamiliar and brand new tires (about 60 miles at this point).
Again, a couple of minor but gentle slides and the same heavy feeling front end.

I rode down the coast and came back in on 53.
I decided to hammer 53 (who can resist?!), at least the tighter bits before the junction of 26.
I worked the throttle hard (the V4 has great useable torque that allows early acceleration).
The rear tire gave no real surprises, and surprising grip when I was actually trying to break it loose (good and warmed up by now).
I only got a couple of minor twitches when I was expecting more.
I noted that the front end gave good (if not great) grip, and had lightened up somewhat, no doubt aided by making the rear end squat under throttle, which further confirms my suspicions about necessary adjustments.

I let the tires cool down for about 15 minutes during refueling, latrine break, etc., then slabbed 26 back to (??-the road that leads back to 202/Jewell).
I took 202, 47, through Vernonia then Timber Rd, crossed 26, through Timber, then back to Gales Creek, and a lap around Hagg Lake.
A moderate/quick pace, but not really pushing it.
The front end seemed a little lighter, or maybe I had simply gotten used to it and subconsciously adjusted.
Grip was very good throughout.

I picked up the pace again on some of my favorite backroads that I don't know the name of, and over Bald Peak and home.

There is a favorite little dip into a rising 90-degree right, with a bend to the left over the crest that I like to hit hard.
A few years back a left a big unintended blackie until the crest, on the R1 wearing SuperCorsas (I had a witness behind me who shall go unnamed, but he may remember the construction workers that almost attacked us with shovels when they saw it!).
Admittedly the R1 (tuned for max torque by EDR) made it easy, but the Shinko wouldn't break loose under the VFR's torque.

I hammered Bald Peak from the Newberg side back to Scholls fairly hard, and the tires worked admirably.
During the entire day they did not want to stand up under as much trail-braking as I dared with new tires, and I get the impression they won't.
Overall grip was just fine, even on sketchy concrete-y and gravelly surfaces.
To be honest, I still held a bit in reserve and didn't really punish them due to being brand new and still working out the mold release agent.
I would say 6-7/10ths for the most part, with occasional 8-8.5/10ths.
The chicken strips are about 1/4" on both sides front & rear - not bad for first ride.
I absolutely did not notice any truly insufficient grip when really asking for it and fully warm; the few tiny slides I noticed I attribute to pushing a cold, brand new tire a little harder than perhaps I should have, but I wanted to know how they would behave when slid - Very well, I'd say.
A couple more heat cycles to fully condition them and I'll hit it harder just to probe their limits a bit more.

I'm also curious about wear.
I do see just a tiny bit of worn edges on the front tread blocks at the end of the day, but to be fair I've always been one to work the front end hard, and for that reason I focused my aggression on the front.
We'll see how it goes.

All in all, I'd say a perfectly adequate, if not inspiring, set of tires, with more than adequate grip for most, at a very reasonable price.
I think for the target market these represent a very good value and have more capability than most buyers will need.

[warewolf]

Rumor has it that Shinko is a major/huge Korean industrial manufacturer, that purchased the technology, molds, rubber compound chemistry, etc. from Yokohama when they ceased production of motorcycle tires.
*I have not been able to substantiate this*.
Yokohama has long been a major player in the tire game, including various forms of motor racing.From http://www.shinkotireusa.com/about.php:


Established in 1946, the Shinko Group began as a manufacturer of bicycle tires and tubes in Osaka, Japan that today has become a burgeoning manufacture of rubber products.

In 1998 the Shinko Group purchased the motorcycle tire technology and molds from Yokohama Rubber Co., and began production of these products under the Shinko Tire brand. With manufacturing based in South Korea and design based in Japan, the company has seamlessly combined Japanese engineering and design principles with South Korean production and quality control standards. Today Shinko Tires produces approximately 200,000 motorcycle tires per month.

[sil3nt]

A very good review of the 006's... Shinkos are really all the average person needs for the road. Label bashers need to give them a chance. No mention of wet weather though. Which is where i think the 006's are shit.

*edit*
Just found the second part to that dudes review


The 006's lasted almost exactly 5000 miles until the rear was worn to about 1mm, with the front showing practically no tread at all in the strip about 2/3's out from the center (closer to the edge than the middle).

The tires were excellent in rain during the first 3000 miles or so, but wet grip dropped off noticeably during the last 1000ish miles.
Even with seemingly adequate remaining tread the tires seemed a bit sketchy in rain.
From http://www.sportbikes.ws/showthread.php?t=106588

[Drew]

Even with seemingly adequate remaining tread the tires seemed a bit sketchy in rain.

That'd be due to less movement in the rubber, not creating enough heat to remain as sticky.

I think it's pretty across the board of tyres that this occurs. Perhaps to a lesser extent with some though.

[racefactory]

Well I just got a motard with 005 front and 006 rear and I am liking them a lot.

With the torque of the motard the rear tyre becomes loose out of corners nice and predictably. Had the front slide around in the wet on the lean. Haven't tested yet how much braking the front can take before locking. These are really all you need for the roads, people are kidding themselves thinking they are too good for them.

Motorcycle USA tested them on a CBR1000RR and the difference in laptimes from the Pirelli Supercorsa SC World SBK tyre was 5 seconds at 1.28 behind 1.23. Less than 2 seconds behind Pilot power 2cts and other road sport tyres. Plastic Korean shit? Yeah right...

[ynot slow]

But the biggie is the mileage from them,I got over 15000(on bike when bought)and 18000km from my PR2,replaced last May at 25060,replaced at 43175km a week or so ago.Thought the PR2 would get through winter but they really wore quickly in last month.So chucked on a set of full bore out of curiosity,after 400km they seem ok,and although when new and riding in rain no sliding,obviously at $150 set cheaper than PR2-3 or similar I don't expect to get distance anywhere near 18000km,but 10000 will be fine,by then I'd saved up for PR3 lol.

[racefactory]

To my knowledge, Shinko are some of the longest wearing tyres of the sports touring category out there though. I've heard of people putting mad mileages on them.

They may not have top race tyre grip but they are all you need for the road as I found out today, even on a tired and worn out set. If you are on a budget I wouldn't feel bad about getting them at all. Today with a friend, fooling around on the new motard shodding the 006 and 005, I proceeded to get the knee down around a local roundabout... no problems whatsoever. Even raising the knee to peg scraping and they still held very comfortably. Impressive considering the large ground clearance of a motard and how fast you need to go to knee down. Predictable, the tyres losing feedback as the bars start to flop inwards. In fact I'm keen to replace this rear with another Shinko now.

[ducatilover]

Knee down doesn't need that much grip or lean angle.... I can knee down with crap rubber too. Doesn't mean you're fast, or the tire is good.

[racefactory]

Bet you will really struggle on a Bridgestone Cyrox, that's a fact. Not all tyres can, especially on a motard.

[ducatilover]

Bet you will really struggle on a Bridgestone Cyrox, that's a fact. Not all tyres can, especially on a motard.

Most probably, but, I got my knee down on a GN with standard rubber :blink: Just a matter of being a fuck wit and riding style.
Over that now.

[Drew]

Bet you will really struggle on a Bridgestone Cyrox, that's a fact. Not all tyres can, especially on a motard.

Cyrox on an RGV was no problem for knee draggin. But dragging a knee does not mean you are going fast.

[racefactory]

Cyrox on an RGV was no problem for knee draggin. But dragging a knee does not mean you are going fast.

I'd have to see that to believe it sorry. Cyrox CY16 was it?

[Drew]

I'd have to see that to believe it sorry. Cyrox CY16 was it?

Dunno what model it was. We're talking ten years ago here.

But I can promise that it was fine...in the dry. I wouldn't put one on a big bike though.

[racefactory]

Wow Cyrox was out 10 years ago? You must have plenty of experience with drifting!

[ducatilover]

There's a Shinko on one of my spare ZZR600 rims, it looks rather nice, not sure how well it performs. I'll check at some stage today as to what model it is.
Can't beany worse than those stupid IRC that it's been blessed with :facepalm:

[Drew]

Wow Cyrox was out 10 years ago? You must have plenty of experience with drifting!

Doubt it's still the same tyre now as it was then. Funky xxxxx like tread pattern. Looked the bizzo, and was all I could afford to put on my brothers bike when mine had been stolen. I thought it was pretty good, used to give it a damn good thrashing over the Wainui hill daily on my way to work.

[Mountie]

Have had two sets of 705's on my 800 GS and have to date had no issues with these tyres.Commuting and high mileage touring, Wet,dry metal and sealed roads. Front can get a little vague when being pushed very hard. Will buy them again when the current ones wear out. Very good tyre for the price.

[NordieBoy]

Have had two sets of 705's on my 800 GS and have to date had no issues with these tyres.Commuting and high mileage touring, Wet,dry metal and sealed roads. Front can get a little vague when being pushed very hard. Will buy them again when the current ones wear out. Very good tyre for the price.

Also handle boggy fields, wet papa clay hills, rock strewn riverbeds and more.
Wet grass is an issue though.

[FatHead]

ive seen some good deals on this brand but dont know anything bout them, has anyone had any good/bad experiences with this brand?

I just removed a Shinko from the back of my GTR1000 did 23k but was prone to going flat. Was a bit unsure of foot even in the dry.

Overall Hated them will never have them again and cant wait until the front one has done so I can replace it.

[NordieBoy]

I just removed a Shinko from the back of my GTR1000 did 23k but was prone to going flat. Was a bit unsure of foot even in the dry.

Overall Hated them will never have them again and cant wait until the front one has done so I can replace it.

For the record, which model Shinko?

[FatHead]

I think it was a 777 or something like that, has really put me off the brand because there was not ever anything in the holes the leaks were coming from 1 was a hole and the other 2 were slits like the rubber had just split. S'pose you get what ya pays for. I just dont need that hassle when I am commuting 600k a week

[NordieBoy]

I think it was a 777 or something like that, has really put me off the brand because there was not ever anything in the holes the leaks were coming from 1 was a hole and the other 2 were slits like the rubber had just split. S'pose you get what ya pays for. I just dont need that hassle when I am commuting 600k a week

Yeah, I had a Honda once. Gutless thing. Never again.


I paid less than $200 for my pair of Shinko 705's, got 9,000km from the rear, 25,000km so far from the front and am doing 460km per week on average.

[FatHead]

SOunds like a bad run for that rear, I recon I would have had 30k out of the rear had it not been run flat so often. The tread was wearing really funny and was pumping them up before each trip there for a bit so they got a bit chewed out (which in the end I was doing on purpose so I could replace the useless things. Loving the new Conti Milestone that I replaced it with far more stable from the get go and a lot better in the wet that the Shinko ever was.

[NordieBoy]

Never had any problems in the wet myself...
<img src=http://sports.nelson.geek.nz/motorsport/mybikes/Trips/20110508%20Wet%20NADS/slides/20110508-152445-0018.jpg>

[Morcs]

I loved the Shinko E705's I put on my KLR. Good on road and gravel too. and they cost me like $140 a set so couldnt complain. cranked right to the edge on the gas they earn they nickname of deathslides though :)

[Pete88]

Hi Morcs did you ever try Shinko's on your 636. I've been offered some for mine (05) at $500 fitted. I'm told by the dealer they're great value and excellent in the wet.

Not sure but struggling to find good tyres in Christchurch. Any help would be gratefully received.

Pete

[racefactory]

Hi Morcs did you ever try Shinko's on your 636. I've been offered some for mine (05) at $500 fitted. I'm told by the dealer they're great value and excellent in the wet.

Not sure but struggling to find good tyres in Christchurch. Any help would be gratefully received.

Pete

All depends on what type of Shinkos. 006 is a lot different to the 003 and what not.

I think the salesman is taking you for a ride regarding wet performance. I had a 006 rear and 005 front on the motard at the track in pouring rain and couldn't believe how shit they were compared to sticky supersport dry oriented bridgestone tyres that have barely any tread at all. One would think the heavily grooved 006 and 005's would be good on rain but the rubber compound is really a lot more relevant for performance, wet or dry. It was just constantly being in state of slide with both the front and rear, enough that onlookers thought there was something wrong with the tyres. Was brilliant for slide control though... one thing I along with other users have acknowledged is that you really can feel them slide well... it's very predictable, enough to let you power slide the rear wheel out of corners with confidence. Having said all this though, the Shinkos I used were probably extremely old and that most likely has a lot to do with the large difference in wet grip.

Granted with a heavily treaded tyre the risk of aquaplaning diminishes significantly but you are going to have to hit some serious speed in decent standing water to ever test that!

[george formby]

I loved the Shinko E705's I put on my KLR. Good on road and gravel too. and they cost me like $140 a set so couldnt complain. cranked right to the edge on the gas they earn they nickname of deathslides though :)

That is a pertinent heads up. New 705 rear going on the TDM any day now. MT 90 a/t on the front.
Ahhhh, finally, the gravel beckons.:banana:

[NordieBoy]

That is a pertinent heads up. New 705 rear going on the TDM any day now. MT 90 a/t on the front.
Ahhhh, finally, the gravel beckons.:banana:

Did you get the radial or bias?

[george formby]

Did you get the radial or bias?

Radial I believe.

[george formby]

Did you get the radial or bias?

Don't keep me in suspenders Nordie, I'm waiting for a pearl of wisdom... Is their much difference?

[NordieBoy]

Don't keep me in suspenders Nordie, I'm waiting for a pearl of wisdom... Is their much difference?

The radial won't de-laminate like the bias could.

The radial says so on the side, the bias says nothing.

[Pete88]

I think I'll pay the extra and get some reliable rubber. Dunlop roadsmarts seem like a good investment for a sporty road tyre. Anyone have any experience with them?

Pete

[Beren]

I have a Shinko Apex on the back of the Bandit now - for what it's worth it seems like a pretty good tyre... but I am only on a 250 so not exactly doing a lot of high speed on it. It certainly handles better than the old rear that was on the bike when I bought it.

[GrayWolf]

Had a chat with Andrew at TSS over wear rate, load etc on the MT and tyre options. Have been happy with the grip of the BT023gt, but since 'stage 2ing' the bike, I think it is wearing tyres faster... 'Full power' below 3k in first 3 gears now, plus overall, around 6-8% increase in HP and torque. To get the MT-01 through Euro emission regs, it ran lean, and closed the Exup below 3k in first 3 gears (makes it quiet enough to pass) but reduced low rev power by around 30% at the same time.
Issue.. weight 265kg wet, 110kg rider, low revving long stroke V twin (110kph @ 2500rpm), maybe 120-ft lbs of torque.. power pulses and weight simply scrub tyres away.
Decided to give the Shinko Verge 016 2X (dual compound) a try, this has a very stiff carcase, (which when I was riding the old FJ1200, I found was preferable to the modern 'elastic' sports/sport tour tyre carcases on a big heavy bike of that type). the Shinko is MUCH stiffer than the 023, this should reduce tyre distortion. I'm aware they need a lot more warming up than other tyres, but then I think thats comparative to the style of riding, an MT is certainly not a highly flickable, scrape your knee, footpeg, etc etc bike.. more akin to an FJR/ST1300/BMW LT for handling characteristics.

Generally, my riding style is 'fast touring' which suits the bike design, but dont have much chicken strip left on the BT023's, so the Verge will be 'ridden'. On leaving the shop the bike felt very different, the 023 was knackered, but the Shinko felt like it was 'perched' and as I leaned into the first slow corner at Ewan bridge (heading towards the city) it felt almost like it wanted to 'tip in'... May be due to much less 'tyre flex'... Going over the Taka's for a coffee later, so will scrub it in, and possibly get to see it's wet weather handling......

http://www.shinkotireusa.com/tire/016-verge-2x

[SNF]

I have Shinko's on my bike. Personally put on nearly 10,000 km's on them wet and dry and I've never had a problem, seem to grip fine although I'm more cautious in the wet. Will find out what exact model. Then again I ride a small bike (250) And I commute and ride for fun rather than serious track action. I find them good for the riding I do.

[GrayWolf]

Decided to give the Shinko Verge 016 2X (dual compound) a try, this has a very stiff carcase, (which when I was riding the old FJ1200, I found was preferable to the modern 'elastic' sports/sport tour tyre carcases on a big heavy bike of that type). the Shinko is MUCH stiffer than the 023, this should reduce tyre distortion. I'm aware they need a lot more warming up than other tyres, but then I think thats comparative to the style of riding, an MT is certainly not a highly flickable, scrape your knee, footpeg, etc etc bike.. more akin to an FJR/ST1300/BMW LT for handling characteristics.

Generally, my riding style is 'fast touring' which suits the bike design, but dont have much chicken strip left on the BT023's, so the Verge will be 'ridden'. On leaving the shop the bike felt very different, the 023 was knackered, but the Shinko felt like it was 'perched' and as I leaned into the first slow corner at Ewan bridge (heading towards the city) it felt almost like it wanted to 'tip in'... May be due to much less 'tyre flex'... Going over the Taka's for a coffee later, so will scrub it in, and possibly get to see it's wet weather handling......

http://www.shinkotireusa.com/tire/016-verge-2x

Did around 70km's+ on it today. Halfway of the Taka's, Heywards, greys road, Wellington, then home.
The Verge has a 'steeper profile than the 023, so yes it feels like it was 'tipping in' on first ride. Will see how the Shinko wears compared to the 'flatter' profile 023. Didnt push it, was riding speed limit and a bit lower as I was with a canam. Once I'd adjusted for the different profile, found the tyre was fine for handling. I did 'give it a little' on the way back down the Taka's on a couple of corners, the Shinko gave me no concern for predictability or grip. Rode home on a wet road, Welly to Hutt, tyre felt fine...

So first impression on 'gentle riding' seems good.

UPDATE:
put another 300k+ on it yesterday, (Sunday) including wet riding.
Rode the backroad from Martinboro' to the Gladdy, then looped round back to Carterton, and over the Taka's again.
Was on the same pace as usual, (100kph and a bit) :cool::devil2: and only around 1cm of chicken strip left. So dry grip seemed easily comparable to the BT023, but with the 'sportier profile' the bike did tip in easier.
It did take a bit more time to reach a good temperature (by feel), but not sure if that is only due to the harder middle compound, or if the softer compound would give it's full grip without? Typical of Shinko's, it spun up on bald tar patches under throttle (main highway Carterton to Featherston) but then if you are riding balls out in the wet??? :spanking: I would guess if ridden with this trait in mind for wet/slippery roads you should have no drama's. Will be interested in how it performs after 4-5k is put on it. On average, got around 8-9k out of the 023's.

So far I am satisfied with the Verge's performance....