PDA

View Full Version : NC30 suspension options



racefactory
3rd December 2009, 00:59
Just wanting to learn a bit about basic options on suspension for bikes which are getting a little old now such as NC30's, ZXR's, CBR's and the like.

Every NC30 i've rode had forks that bottomed out under braking hard even with weight off the arms, body fastened onto the bike.

What are the options, costs and places for bringing bikes of such age back to proper operation again?

Thanks.

koba
3rd December 2009, 06:26
Just wanting to learn a bit about basic options on suspension for bikes which are getting a little old now such as NC30's, ZXR's, CBR's and the like.

Every NC30 i've rode had forks that bottomed out under braking hard even with weight off the arms, body fastened onto the bike.

What are the options, costs and places for bringing bikes of such age back to proper operation again?

Thanks.

Ride an NC21, that will make you very happy with what you have!

T.W.R
3rd December 2009, 06:29
Have a read

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php?t=21099

Robert Taylor
3rd December 2009, 06:57
Just wanting to learn a bit about basic options on suspension for bikes which are getting a little old now such as NC30's, ZXR's, CBR's and the like.

Every NC30 i've rode had forks that bottomed out under braking hard even with weight off the arms, body fastened onto the bike.

What are the options, costs and places for bringing bikes of such age back to proper operation again?

Thanks.

Easy, fork springs that arent from the bic biro factory ( ! ) allied with well calibrated and installed Race Tech emulators. Give it some spring rate and damping! High quality aftermarket rear shock with ride height adjustment, these bikes ride too low in the rear.

racefactory
3rd December 2009, 11:11
Easy, fork springs that arent from the bic biro factory ( ! ) allied with well calibrated and installed Race Tech emulators. Give it some spring rate and damping! High quality aftermarket rear shock with ride height adjustment, these bikes ride too low in the rear.

How much are we looking at for the springs and fitting?

Any suggestions for a rear shock that's not going to cost an arm? Fitting for this? Or is it a self jobbie?

Robert Taylor
3rd December 2009, 17:36
How much are we looking at for the springs and fitting?

Any suggestions for a rear shock that's not going to cost an arm? Fitting for this? Or is it a self jobbie?

All information that you require has been pm'd to you

lostinflyz
3rd December 2009, 19:05
How much are we looking at for the springs and fitting?

Any suggestions for a rear shock that's not going to cost an arm? Fitting for this? Or is it a self jobbie?

magic shit happens when you pay a few pennies for bits and bobs like suspension and brakes ect. Robert has custom built a shock for my race bike and its god. Ive had a nc30 riding on a stock shock and theres no way round it, its a dog. and not a nice dog, its a cross between a poodle for being so horribly undersprung and short and a st bernard for having the feeling of racing a motorcycle while riding a horse. Somehow. Particularly the earlier models with the none external resivours.

Ive also had a bike that ran a TZ250 shock in the rear. It was ok, undersprung quite a bit, but was bloody long so it helped it actually steer. at least until it lunched itself (oil resivour too close to the rear exhuast i think)

The ohlins in my bike is magic as i said. its height adjustable so ive got it dialled out to max (i.e. basically rubbing on the swingarm.). This is the single biggest improvement you can do in the rear, well that and a good spring rate.

Ive got an R6 front end (07) in the front of mine which is the shit. But unless you can find some rvf clamps and bits might be hard to fit, but its quite cheap change ( it cost me like 800 bucks for the forks and brakes (radial calipers)). I have just made up a vfr for a mate with rs250 (honda, not aprilla) forks and they seemed quite nice. All replacement bits Both f&R need to be reprung though.

Basically spending money = better bike. First and foremost jack the rear up and fit springs (f&R). This really should be done on every bike you ever touch (not neccasarily the jack up bit). You'll find you can brake twice as hard, hit the throttle twice as hard and steer twice as quick. its amazing.

After that its a case of fitting emulators or replacing bits. Do you have an 89 or later model NC30. The forks are different between the original year and following. the original nc30 forks have horrid springs that you simply cant get enough preload on to work properly, without ripping them apart and fitting some spacer blocks.

To the guy with the NC21, the rear shocks in those are awesome for ridiculously bumpy roads, just dont try turn ahaha. I loved my old nc21. Except when i adjusted the forks to be nice and firm and suddenly it decided that the front should stop moving and the rear would be all the suspension you'd ever need. Well it stopped good at least. haha

in the end while what robert will have PM'd you sounds like a lot of money, it'd be money well spent, on road or track. Listen to him, he does kinda know what hes doing.

Go crazy. Ive got several (well actually several, several)grand worth of high end shocks, forks, brakes and custom bits all over my bike. there just soooooo pimp when there sorted and you've got proper go fast bits on what was really quite a go fast bike.

Im staring at brand new ductile iron brake tech rotors and carbon pads for mine, and while i am staving as they cost me all my money so i cant eat, i have the biggest damn smile in the world right now.