Front brake reservoir

[gazmascelle]

Spent a good part of this afternoon working on my CBR, decided to top up the brake fluid last of all. after topping her up noticed brake fluid is seeping past the cap slowly so decided to remove it to check the seal.. and fucked one of the screws :brick:

anyone know where I can get one of those tapered screws in the manawatu (or maybe even wellys) this weekend? not really keen to ride her with brake fluid leaking, even if it is slowly..

[_STAIN_]

just carefully put a shallow hacksaw cut across the head and use a flat blade screwdriver, do not over tighten or you wreck the seal.

[YellowDog]

I hate it when that happens.

If you can get someone to hold it firm for you, you can really put some pressure on to the screw and get it out.

[gazmascelle]

hacksaw would be good but the screw is flush with the cap so dunno how i could do that with this sucker. Guess thats what happens when you try to rush things.. might have to sort it out monday

[kwaka_crasher]

hacksaw would be good but the screw is flush with the cap so dunno how i could do that with this sucker. Guess thats what happens when you try to rush things.. might have to sort it out mondayHuh? You take the screw out, hacksaw the slot, put the screw back in. Get another one and replace it at your convenience. Or use an impact driver - they'll often remove a screw with a damaged drive.

Or do you mean you fucked the screw trying to remove it? If so, remove the other one, measure the thread (most likely M4) then drill the head off the fucked one with a drill that matches the thread size. The head will come off leaving the thread behind then you remove the cap & wind the threaded piece out. You don't have to use a countersunk head screw to replace it temporarily - just use a hex head one and washer. The seal prevents the egress of any fluids of gases.

[F5 Dave]

That is risky if you cannot grasp the thread you are left with it stuck in there. Countersunk bolts can leave very little above deck.

If a mate has a dremel with a tiny cut off disc you can cut a slot carefully without damaging the lid if you are lucky (& then likely only cosmetically that could be fixed).

The other thing I've done is to use a small sacrificial sharp wood chisel & on an angle; dig a channel near the circumference. Then use a sacrificial screwdriver to tap at 45 degrees in anticlockwise direction. Has worked well a number of times.

Push when using posidrive screwdrivers.

[quickbuck]

Spent a good part of this afternoon working on my CBR, decided to top up the brake fluid last of all. after topping her up noticed brake fluid is seeping past the cap slowly so decided to remove it to check the seal.. and fucked one of the screws :brick:

anyone know where I can get one of those tapered screws in the manawatu (or maybe even wellys) this weekend? not really keen to ride her with brake fluid leaking, even if it is slowly..

Umm, a bit late now, but City Honda was open on Saturday.... they were bound to have one.

Another way to get them out is to get your #2 screw driver bit out of the Supercheap drill set, and put it into a 1/4" Socket.
Attach your Speed Brace and carefully apply a bit of downward force and torque..... Oh, and magic stuff called "Screw Grab" is a god send......

[gazmascelle]

thanks everyone.. got the bugger out using a clamp to apply pressure to the cap (in theory this would have taken some pressure off the screw?) and unscrewing with a modified flat head driver :2thumbsup

spoke to someone at city honda today, got replacement screw sorted.

[kwaka_crasher]

That is risky if you cannot grasp the thread you are left with it stuck in there. Countersunk bolts can leave very little above deck.

No, it's not. There's always at least as much thread sticking above the reservoir body as the thickness of the seal, and the seals are pretty thick and do not have a countersunk face.

[F5 Dave]

Pretty thick? Like 2mm at most & the bolt could easily take a corner off leaving a hard to grasp piece that could be corroded in, you have to be careful not to gark the surface while you twist.

Still, sounds like he got it out & while a good theory about clamping it as it is compressing rubber, but I'd inspect the seal as that could well damage it.

[kwaka_crasher]

Pretty thick? Like 2mm at most & the bolt could easily take a corner off leaving a hard to grasp piece that could be corroded in, you have to be careful not to gark the surface while you twist.

Well, I've done it more times than I care to remember - once the tension comes off the thread as the head is removed any corrosion bar the most extreme becomes insignificant. It's quick and easy but if you want to fuck around with a dremel risking damage to the cap, go for your life. You won't catch me doing anything the hard way.

[sefer]

Lol, did the same thing today, and lack of tools (and the fact the screw is not truely fucked with my attempts to get it out) means it aint going anywhere....