View Full Version : Exhaust canister modification/repair?
R6_kid
8th December 2009, 13:10
For a second time my TRX850 has managed to rumble its way through a set of rivets on the front end of the exhaust canister and from the sounds of things it's destroyed my half-assed exhaust packing too.
About a month after having the bike it had managed to destroy 5 of 6 rivets, I drilled out the last one and used stainless steel blind rivets to put it back together but the holes in the sleeve were a little worn and now the thumping beast has worked them loose so that the front end of the exhaust isn't sealing any more.
I think the best plan of attack is to cut 2cm out of the sleeve and internal perforated pipe, re-drill the holes, fit new exhaust packing and secure it all back together new rivets.
Can anyone suggest a place in Auckland that will be able to do a professional job reasonably cheap?
The exhaust is an Over Racing 2-into-1 Alluminium pipe and Over Racing don't sell any parts for them anymore.
Taz
8th December 2009, 13:12
Custom Chambers
imdying
8th December 2009, 13:15
Bin it and buy a new stainless muffler is probably the best long term solution. How about sleeving the inside of the sleeve with some batting like they do on a carbon can?
R6_kid
8th December 2009, 14:51
A new exhaust is on the cards at some point but I'll need it to at least not be leaking when it goes for it's WOF just before Christmas.
Could you explain what you mean about putting in batting? It currently just has cheap fibreglass packing in it.
nallac
8th December 2009, 15:21
The Vance and hines on my Buells has done the same thing,
ben thru two sets of rivets(had previously had xtra holes drilled with more rivets,so about 14 rivets around it in total,Looked like crap) since i've had it .
On monday i took it in to a local sheetmetals shop(Mahurangi sheetmetals)
and got them to weld a ali strip around the front covering the worn/slotted holes on the sleeve and weld up the holes in the stainless inlet pipe and redrill and rivet it.
looks good hopefully it works good....
If not the next step will get them to weld a few nuts on a strip and weld that inside the inlet pipe and bolt it instead of rivets.
Gonna go put it on now and see how it works....
The Buell also spat out most of the cheap packing i had installed...
I'm going to try again with the cheap matting (hopeful of it working better with a solid pipe) if it doesn't work i will pack it with cheap steelo pads to take the bark out a bit.
Oh i thought of slicing 20mm of the front but the buells front mount would have to be modified,
then have to shorten the perfed baffle, thats easy enough to do
but quickest to go the route i ended up doing.
R6_kid
10th December 2009, 14:44
It turns out my exhaust is completely stuffed...
Well, packed full of new fibreglass packing. When I drilled the rivets out there was no fibreglass to be seen, instead a few 'rocks' of what was previously pink batts (I know, I know!) and that was it. What was left of the original (proper) packing that I put back in had been reduced to two circular patches about an inch and half in diameter.
$36 for two rolls of exhaust packing from cycle treads, and $7 for a tube of exhaust/muffler sealer to sort out the gaps at the bottom. The holes in the outer sleeve were completely rooted so I spun the lower end cap about 5 degrees and checked that it would all still fit up on the bike - it did, so I re-drilled the holes, fitted new packing, applied the sealant and then riveted it all back up.
I really wish my old man had an electric rivet gun - stainless steel blind rivets aren't exactly easy to pop! :niceone:
The Stranger
10th December 2009, 14:53
It turns out my exhaust is completely stuffed...
Well, packed full of new fibreglass packing. When I drilled the rivets out there was no fibreglass to be seen, instead a few 'rocks' of what was previously pink batts (I know, I know!) and that was it. What was left of the original (proper) packing that I put back in had been reduced to two circular patches about an inch and half in diameter.
$36 for two rolls of exhaust packing from cycle treads, and $7 for a tube of exhaust/muffler sealer to sort out the gaps at the bottom. The holes in the outer sleeve were completely rooted so I spun the lower end cap about 5 degrees and checked that it would all still fit up on the bike - it did, so I re-drilled the holes, fitted new packing, applied the sealant and then riveted it all back up.
I really wish my old man had an electric rivet gun - stainless steel blind rivets aren't exactly easy to pop! :niceone:
So you using SS rivets into Ali?
Won't that just cause the holes to flog out quicker?
Maybe better to sacrifice the rivets as they are easier to replace than the holes?
PS. I think we still got the air riveter here, but too late now I guess.
R6_kid
10th December 2009, 15:03
Yes the canister is alluminium. If it fucks out again I'll have to get a new sleeve made up, or better yet just get a new exhaust. Can't make it around this arvo but I'll see you first thing tomorrow.
kwaka_crasher
10th December 2009, 17:24
So you using SS rivets into Ali?
Won't that just cause the holes to flog out quicker?
Maybe better to sacrifice the rivets as they are easier to replace than the holes?
PS. I think we still got the air riveter here, but too late now I guess.
They'll certainly cause the holes to corrode a hell of a lot faster. At least if the SS rivets themselves don't fatigue and fall out first.
Go back to alluminium alloy rivets.
vifferman
10th December 2009, 17:52
And use stainless steel wool for packing.
gatch
10th December 2009, 20:46
They'll certainly cause the holes to corrode a hell of a lot faster. At least if the SS rivets themselves don't fatigue and fall out first.
Go back to alluminium alloy rivets.
Galvanic corrosion cell.. Or somethin like that.
+1 on the ally rivets.
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