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Magua
9th December 2009, 14:56
Removing the lower race from the steering head today, I believe I've fucked things. A little too enthusiastic with the wrecking bar and hammer.

Can this sort of mess be cleaned up? There's still a definitive lip and the race was by NO means easy to remove.

PirateJafa
9th December 2009, 14:57
That'll buff out.

Squiggles
9th December 2009, 15:04
Will require superglue and perhaps some bubblegum.

glegge
9th December 2009, 15:12
Pha, mearly a scratch.

but seriously, i presume if you clean it up with careful use of a round file, and some emery cloth, the new bearing shell wont fall out? if not - she'll be right.
if it will, there are liquid bearing retainers available.
or is this just a wind up to see how 'back yard dodgie mechanic' we are?

The Stranger
9th December 2009, 15:20
I would seek the advice of a decent engineer.
Sixpackback is on the shore and seems to know his shit.

R6_kid
9th December 2009, 15:31
What the fuck were you using? A jackhammer?

Is this on the CB200? You should be able to get tapered roller bearings, then you just have to make sure that you clean the seat up before you tap in the the outer part of the roller bearing.

SixPackBack
9th December 2009, 15:50
After replacing Pyro's head bearings on the weekend with a long screw driver and an axe [ I shit you not], I can only say 'I'm not surprised Magua'

Apparently Kiwi's like the problem solving that an absence of tools and facilities brings. My reply would be: would you want a chainsaw wielding freezing working working on your partners vagina?.......:devil2:

gatch
9th December 2009, 17:27
Removing the lower race from the steering head today, I believe I've fucked things. A little too enthusiastic with the wrecking bar and hammer.

Can this sort of mess be cleaned up? There's still a definitive lip and the race was by NO means easy to remove.

Jesus H christ ! Too right you've fucked it.

Judicious use of a little (1/8") die grinder and a CAREFUL hand may smooth it out.

hayd3n
9th December 2009, 17:39
nice butchers job

Pussy
9th December 2009, 17:43
Were you wearing your blue and white striped apron?..... :whistle:

kwaka_crasher
9th December 2009, 18:12
WTF did you use to drift the cups out? You're not supposed to use a chisel.

You just need to sand back the proud bits of the gouges from the cylindrical section where the cup is installed or you'll have difficulty getting the new ones in. Make sure the step is also free of proud bits.

The assembly is never going to fall out and won't significantly affect play or alignment unless you remove a lot of material.

God only knows what the lower yoke stem is going to look like by the time you're done though...

T.W.R
9th December 2009, 18:45
:crazy: plenty of weetbix for brekkie huh?

engineers burr remover to get rid of the lips of the gouges & high points of the bearing seat should do the trick.

Tip: next time spot weld the race in four points around it's circumference, this will shrink the race enough that it'll almost fall out when hit with a cylinderical drift.......literally a fraction of the effort required (just don't spot weld it to the frame tube) :rolleyes:

Yankee Doodle Dandy
10th December 2009, 05:48
In my country we have the saying "Not all butchers work with meat."

Robert Taylor
10th December 2009, 07:20
In my country we have the saying "Not all butchers work with meat."

Yeah! We have a special tool for removing headraces that avoids such butchery.

Yankee Doodle Dandy
10th December 2009, 11:26
Yeah! We have a special tool for removing headraces that avoids such butchery.
I have a special to for that too.

Its called a brain.

Ixion
10th December 2009, 11:33
Boy, remind me not to get on the wrong side of you when you're in a bad mood.

Just need to clean the burrs and gouges up.

Die grinder/Dremel is the dogs bollocks for that stuff, I can loan you one.

Do be careful and judicious with it but, cos it's real easy to grind metal off, a shit load harder to put it back.

When fitting the new races, chill them in the freezer overnight beforehand, and if you can, warm up the headstock (that'll mess up piant though, likely)

Magua
23rd March 2010, 11:05
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Honda-CB200-T-CB-200-1976-Steering-Head-Bearings_W0QQitemZ390159265147QQcmdZViewItemQQptZA U_Motorcycle_Parts_Accessories?hash=item5ad74ded7b #ht_1201wt_939

the 200t, does anyone know how it differs to the 200? I believe I've got a '74 model 200, but I don't see that they would have changed the steering head much, if at all, between the models?

The Stranger
23rd March 2010, 11:12
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Honda-CB200-T-CB-200-1976-Steering-Head-Bearings_W0QQitemZ390159265147QQcmdZViewItemQQptZA U_Motorcycle_Parts_Accessories?hash=item5ad74ded7b #ht_1201wt_939

the 200t, does anyone know how it differs to the 200? I believe I've got a '74 model 200, but I don't see that they would have changed the steering head much, if at all, between the models?

May I ask why?
Wouldn't you just pull the bearings and take them to someone like Auckland Bearing Services and they will almost certainly (always have in the past) have replacements in stock. They also have an excellent range of seals.

FROSTY
27th March 2010, 07:59
Old eyes n all that but it looks to me like the bearing outer shell is still in there-Most of it. Id be getting someone to look at it and do the tack weld bit. It may be things aren't as bad as they look

Teflon
5th April 2010, 07:41
Nice

Should be easy to get them out with a little bit of heat and a copper drift...

Robert Taylor
5th April 2010, 11:13
I hope when you onsell or trade this bike in you are going to be completely honest about this, excepting if its proffessionally repaired so that it is as new.....................

Owl
5th April 2010, 11:27
Thanks for sharing Magua! That's one more item I can put on the list of things I shouldn't touch and leave to professionals!:yes: