The most amazing chain lube ever

[dpex]

It's called Prolan, and it's Lanolin suspended in something else. Utterly amazing shit.

You know what it's like after a chain-lube with the normal canned stuff. Shit everywhere, right?

Not with this stuff. Just the lightest of spray on the chain does the job. It's highly penetrative and, most importantly, it STAYS on the chain. Imagine having to lube your chain only every 5,000Ks!

It's a rust preventer. A coating for mags...Coat your mags with the lightest spray and then the shit which gets on comes off with a hose, no scrubbing.

Check it out at www.prolan.co.nz

Cleverest shit I've found since finding alcohol..

[paturoa]

Just spent a bunch of pingas on an auto chain oiler for the road steed. How would it go for the dirties?

[ezirider]

which product would you use on a motorcycle chain? the heavy grade liquid and just put it in a spray bottle?

[Tank]

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[peasea]

You young'uns have it soooo easy, everythings in an aerosol these days isn't it? When I was a boy.............we had a product from Duckhams that came in a can large enough to hold your whole chain. It looked a bit like soft candle wax. You plonked your chain in, sitting on top of the goop, then placed the can on the gas hob (much to mum's delight) and heated it until the goop was liquid, then gently lifted your chain out with a length of wire or something.

This shit really got into (and onto) your chain and made refitting your chain a bit of a greasy hassle. Heaven help you if you spilled any in the kitchen too, which I can recall doing more than once.

Ahh, those were the days.

(So glad they're gone, I gotta belt now and that works just fine.)

[tri boy]

You young'uns have it soooo easy, everythings in an aerosol these days isn't it? When I was a boy.............we had a product from Duckhams that came in a can large enough to hold your whole chain. It looked a bit like soft candle wax. You plonked your chain in, sitting on top of the goop, then placed the can on the gas hob (much to mum's delight) and heated it until the goop was liquid..........

While burning some of mum's best butter knives on the hob while you waited.<_<

[peasea]

While burning some of mum's best butter knives on the hob while you waited.<_<

Was that you looking through the window?

[tri boy]

I was the store boy selling ya mum new knives every second week:cool:

[scumdog]

I was the store boy selling ya mum new knives every second week:cool:

Actually, his mum did a lot of spotting.....:shifty:

[hayd3n]

which product would you use on a motorcycle chain? the heavy grade liquid and just put it in a spray bottle?

2nd that:whistle:

[Owl]

2nd that:whistle:

+1:rolleyes:

[NordieBoy]

Wonder how liquid the liquid is?

Fill up the Scotty with it?

[Pixie]

I was told by a Lanox (aussie lanolin lubes) product specialist that lanolin lubes are good as water resistant lubes,but have a low film strength,so are not good lubricants for chains and gears.

[merlin]

Which grade are you using? And how are you applying it?

[mowgli]

You young'uns have it soooo easy, everythings in an aerosol these days isn't it? When I was a boy.............we had a product from Duckhams that came in a can large enough to hold your whole chain. It looked a bit like soft candle wax. You plonked your chain in, sitting on top of the goop, then placed the can on the gas hob (much to mum's delight) and heated it until the goop was liquid, then gently lifted your chain out with a length of wire or something.
Ah, yes those were the days. We had a big old tin of chassis grease and a kerosine cooker out in the shed. I still remember fumbling around the shed and walking into greasy chains hanging from the rafters.

These days I have a Loobman (http://www.loobman.com/) fitted (see photo). It's really a poor man's Scott Oiler but it works a treat.

[Juzz976]

Yeh its good stuff, I've been using it last few months, maybe 4000k.

By the feel, smell and taste I would guess its just a mixture of 2 or more hydrocarbons where one is a gas at room temp, the other a Solid and mixed together under pressure a liquid solution.
When not under more than atmospheric pressure the smaller chained one evaporates leaving the waxy film.

[pritch]

I still remember fumbling around the shed and walking into greasy chains hanging from the rafters.

That sounds seriously kinky :whistle:

[dipshit]

lanolin lubes are good as water resistant lubes,but have a low film strength,so are not good lubricants for chains and gears.

It's strange how unclear chain maintenance is. Some people say you only need to lubricate the O-rings and that the grease inside around the pins is sufficient... others, like myself, have reckoned that you need to keep lubricant on and underneath the rollers as well, where you have metal to metal contact with the sprockets etc.

I had always used a motorcycle chain oil or wax... but recently have got sick of the amount of chain sponge that builds up around the front sprocket cover and engine casings. Especially after seeing how chain sponge could destroy the water pump seal on my particular bike... http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2534746&postcount=19

Have now decided to change tactics completely and try cleaning the chain with kerosene more regularly and only applying a silicone lubricant spray.

I wonder just how important film strength is to a O-ring motorcycle chain?

[peasea]

Ah, yes those were the days. We had a big old tin of chassis grease and a kerosine cooker out in the shed. I still remember fumbling around the shed and walking into greasy chains hanging from the rafters.

These days I have a Loobman (http://www.loobman.com/) fitted (see photo). It's really a poor man's Scott Oiler but it works a treat.

I'll pass on the info to those I know with chains, at the mo' they're just using aerosol lubes, dunno how good they are. I know technology marches on but I would guess that chassis grease would be a better chain lube than anything in a spray can. I could be wrong though. Still, whatever you use, chains (like anything else) wear out sooner or later and some riders will swear by one product and so one........

Interesting that you can recall "those days" you old fart.

[peasea]

It's strange how unclear chain maintenance is. Some people say you only need to lubricate the O-rings and that the grease inside around the pins is sufficient... others, like myself, have reckoned that you need to keep lubricant on and underneath the rollers as well, where you have metal to metal contact with the sprockets etc.

I had always used a motorcycle chain oil or wax... but recently have got sick of the amount of chain sponge that builds up around the front sprocket cover and engine casings. Especially after seeing how chain sponge could destroy the water pump seal on my particular bike... http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2534746&postcount=19

Have now decided to change tactics completely and try cleaning the chain with kerosene more regularly and only applying a silicone lubricant spray.

I wonder just how important film strength is to a O-ring motorcycle chain?

I'm willing to bet if you talk to the chain maker, the lube maker and the bike maker you'll get three different stories. Do you go through many chains? What sort of k's would you expect from a good chain and would varying lubes make that much difference?

Cheers.

[sinned]

This topic has been done to death on this and most other bike forums. A simple Google search 'motorcycle chain lubrication' provides heaps of information and this site (http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/motorcycle-chain-lube/) comes up high and provides advice that summarised says - lub your chain.

Then ride the bike. Nothing else really matters.

[dipshit]

I'm willing to bet if you talk to the chain maker, the lube maker and the bike maker you'll get three different stories.

Yep, this so often seems to be the case.



Do you go through many chains? What sort of k's would you expect from a good chain and would varying lubes make that much difference?

My last bike (SV1000) had 26k kms on it from new with the chain still looking resemble without needing adjusting too often. It was starting to develop a tight spot though.

Will see what happens with the 'keep it clean' and use a dry type of lubricant approach instead.

[dipshit]

This topic has been done to death on this and most other bike forums. A simple Google search 'motorcycle chain lubrication' provides heaps of information and this site (http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/motorcycle-chain-lube/)

And lots of contradicting information as well. This product (http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/motorcycle-chain-lube/dupont-teflon-chain-saver/and) is one of their favourites and used by a lot of other riders as well. Unfortunately it isn't imported into NZ. I have been trying to find a very similar product here.

[sinned]

And lots of contradicting information as well. This product (http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/motorcycle-chain-lube/dupont-teflon-chain-saver/and) is one of their favourites and used by a lot of other riders as well. Unfortunately it isn't imported into NZ. I have been trying to find a very similar product here.

You are right about contradicting information. However, the contradictions are related to opinion on the form of the lubricant as no one seems to be able to provide any hard facts. Facts are somewhat easier to find relating to chains which are lubricated and those which are not. And those facts support a fairly simple principle - keep the chain lubed and it will last many times longer than one that is run dry. If the chain is kept wet/lubed it doesn't seem to matter if oil from a aerosol with stick on properties or oil from an automatic oiler that sprays all over the place is used.

On a long ride (400 - 700kms) the chain will dry out - well that is my experience anyway. So if you only do day runs of up to 600kms most spray on stuff will do the trick. If you do much longer runs then a Scott or similar oiler is of value as the chain doesn't dry out - which is when it wears.

I lube my chain with a variety of stuff in cans and on a long run wind up the Scott oiler once I hit 400kms. When I get home from these runs I have to clean the oil off. On short runs the bike stays clean and gets a nice spray of sticky stuff from a can before the next run.

The lub product is less important than the act of lubing the chain on a regular basis.

[dipshit]

If the chain is kept wet/lubed it doesn't seem to matter if oil from a aerosol with stick on properties or oil from an automatic oiler that sprays all over the place is used.

Well then you have the two guys that set out on some Australian outback roads with two identical bikes. Both with new chains and sprockets - only one of them had an automatic oiler. The guy with the oiler finished the trip with absolutely rooted chain and sprockets. The other rider didn't use any oil on the chain at all and his chain and sprockets were fine at the end of the trip. (it was dusty conditions and the rider with the oiler basically ended up with grinding paste)

So maybe just enough of some kind of lubricant to keep the O-rings clean and supple... with the links and rollers basically dry and not attracting road grime... may work also..??

Which takes me back to my original question. Is lubricant film strength on the sprocket teeth and rollers important for an O-ring chain... or is just looking after the O-rings important?

[sinned]

Which takes me back to my original question. Is lubricant film strength on the sprocket teeth and rollers important for an O-ring chain... or is just looking after the O-rings important?

Given the apparent lack of research you will most likely never know the answer to that question. Keep asking the question on KB if you are seeking emotive opinion.

[awa355]

Which takes me back to my original question. Is lubricant film strength on the sprocket teeth and rollers important for an O-ring chain... or is just looking after the O-rings important?[/QUOTE]

Both areas involve friction between touching parts and so wear is always going to happen. On an O ring chain I always felt I was lubricating the chain to slow down wear on the teeth and chain rollers and the sealed O rings would look after themselves.

Chainsaw chains use a chain oil with an additive to stop it flying off the chain. I wonder how it would go on a bike chain. Certainly, the bike chain wouldn't be rounding a sprocket at the speed a saw chain turns the chainbar sprocket. Or would it?

[TygerTung]

I have been using fish oil lately as it is very sticky and it smells nice.

What do you think about that?

[awa355]

I have been using fish oil lately as it is very sticky and it smells nice.

What do you think about that?

Your wife rides pillon as well eh?

[davebullet]

Chainsaw chains use a chain oil with an additive to stop it flying off the chain. I wonder how it would go on a bike chain. Certainly, the bike chain wouldn't be rounding a sprocket at the speed a saw chain turns the chainbar sprocket. Or would it?

I use Penrite chainsaw bar oil in my Loobman. Seems to do the trick. Less fling off than a spray can (but that could be because the loobman puts a small amount evenly over a period of several minutes) rather than dumping a heap in one go like a can.

[TygerTung]

Your wife rides pillon as well eh?

Nah she doesn't really ride on the back very much.

[Pixie]

It's strange how unclear chain maintenance is. Some people say you only need to lubricate the O-rings and that the grease inside around the pins is sufficient... others, like myself, have reckoned that you need to keep lubricant on and underneath the rollers as well, where you have metal to metal contact with the sprockets etc.



You are correct.The wear that causes elongation(wrongly referred to as "stretch"),occurs between the pins and bushes.This is taken care of by the factory internal lubrication held in by the O rings.
The rollers experience some wear on their inner surface when rotating on the outer surface of the bush.And the rollers and sprocket teeth wear due to contact between each other.These last two types of wear need to be lessened by external lubrication.This lubrication also keeps the O rings in good condition.

[Pixie]

You are right about contradicting information. However, the contradictions are related to opinion on the form of the lubricant as no one seems to be able to provide any hard facts. Facts are somewhat easier to find relating to chains which are lubricated and those which are not. And those facts support a fairly simple principle - keep the chain lubed and it will last many times longer than one that is run dry. If the chain is kept wet/lubed it doesn't seem to matter if oil from a aerosol with stick on properties or oil from an automatic oiler that sprays all over the place is used.



My 91,300 km and counting on a,autolubed with cheap motor oil,chain confirms what you are saying.(Bandit 1200)

[sinned]

My 91,300 km and counting on a,autolubed with cheap motor oil,chain confirms what you are saying.(Bandit 1200)

91k is the highest I have heard of. I have noticed that some bikes with auto oilers have chains which, in my opinion, have insufficient oil on them - they look dry. My guess is the oiler is wound down to stop splatter. My chain is kept wet and that means I need to wipe some splatter off after a decent ride. It will interesting to see how the chain wears on the busa.

[888]

how do you clean your chain, with kerosense? Do you wipe off the excess prolan after applying? I use prolan on just about every exposed metal surface but have yet to try on chain...

[mattian]

how do you clean your chain, with kerosense? Do you wipe off the excess prolan after applying? I use prolan on just about every exposed metal surface but have yet to try on chain...

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php?t=102858&highlight=Chain+cleaning

[888]

I am really interested in hearing more about your use of Prolan as chain lube. I am currently using the Yamalube product, but it leaves a fair amount of splatter everywhere (even after wiping off). I'm tempted to just try using wd40, but Prolan might be a better option. How many k's have you ridden with just prolan, and how often have you re-applied it?

[mattian]

I am really interested in hearing more about your use of Prolan as chain lube. I am currently using the Yamalube product, but it leaves a fair amount of splatter everywhere (even after wiping off). I'm tempted to just try using wd40, but Prolan might be a better option. How many k's have you ridden with just prolan, and how often have you re-applied it?

I don't know anything about Prolan but don't go using WD40 on an O-ring chain..... apparently it dissolves the O-ring grease inside the chain.
If its any help to you, I use silkolene Chain Gel in a spray can.Its non fling and forms quite a stiff wax-like coating. I get it from Super cheap autos. they have quite a selection of synthetic and semi-synthetic chain lubes. Just make sure you read the label and, if it says O-ring safe then its good as gold.

[NordieBoy]

don't go using WD40 on an O-ring chain..... apparently it dissolves the O-ring grease inside the chain.

No it doesn't.

[mattian]

No it doesn't.

Oh ok... sorry. I was always told that WD40 acts like a de-greaser and can corode away some of the grease sealed inside the o-ring chain.

[NordieBoy]

Oh ok... sorry. I was always told that WD40 acts like a de-greaser and can corode away some of the grease sealed inside the o-ring chain.

The operative word there is "sealed".
If it gets in there you have other problems.

WD-40 themselves recommend it for o-ring chains.

I chopped up a chain well past it's use by date off my XR250 race bike and it'd only been lubed with WD-40 and there was still plenty of grease on the pins.

[bully]

wd40 ftw! :)

[888]

Prolan works fantastic as a chain lube...so far. After trying several brands and getting tired of the goop build up and splatter, I cleaned the chain today and applied Prolan. After 30 ks of riding, no splatter, and the chain is still shiny with lube. I have been using Prolan on the bike, with no rust after a full year of getting blasted by Hokitika salt rain. I reckon Prolan is the best product out there for just about any metal protection. It works great on my firearms as well. GO PROLAN! Oh yeah, I also sell Prolan products in my store.....

[george formby]

You young'uns have it soooo easy, everythings in an aerosol these days isn't it? When I was a boy.............we had a product from Duckhams that came in a can large enough to hold your whole chain. It looked a bit like soft candle wax. You plonked your chain in, sitting on top of the goop, then placed the can on the gas hob (much to mum's delight) and heated it until the goop was liquid, then gently lifted your chain out with a length of wire or something.

This shit really got into (and onto) your chain and made refitting your chain a bit of a greasy hassle. Heaven help you if you spilled any in the kitchen too, which I can recall doing more than once.

Ahh, those were the days.

(So glad they're gone, I gotta belt now and that works just fine.)

I've still got a tin of that somewhere. I remember my Dad leaving it on the stove, wandering off & letting it catch fire. What a mess, what a laugh!

[peasea]

Prolan works fantastic as a chain lube...so far. After trying several brands and getting tired of the goop build up and splatter, I cleaned the chain today and applied Prolan. After 30 ks of riding, no splatter, and the chain is still shiny with lube. I have been using Prolan on the bike, with no rust after a full year of getting blasted by Hokitika salt rain. I reckon Prolan is the best product out there for just about any metal protection. It works great on my firearms as well. GO PROLAN! Oh yeah, I also sell Prolan products in my store.....

No bias there then, eh?

[Bender]

You young'uns have it soooo easy, everythings in an aerosol these days isn't it? When I was a boy.............we had a product from Duckhams that came in a can large enough to hold your whole chain. It looked a bit like soft candle wax. You plonked your chain in, sitting on top of the goop, then placed the can on the gas hob (much to mum's delight) and heated it until the goop was liquid, then gently lifted your chain out with a length of wire or something.

This shit really got into (and onto) your chain and made refitting your chain a bit of a greasy hassle. Heaven help you if you spilled any in the kitchen too, which I can recall doing more than once.

Ahh, those were the days.

(So glad they're gone, I gotta belt now and that works just fine.)


Haha yes - I had a bit of a slop factor with it once as I moved towards the garage, "balancing" the molten mass by holding the side of the tin with pliers.

Mum, God bless her, took it with the resigned good grace that she applied to all the other crap her four sons dished out to her during our teenage years.

[Toaster]

It may be just that he liked the product so much he now stocks it. Makes good sense to me.

[Alpha Solo]

So which Prolan product is the one to use?

[888]

Prolan sell their medium grade lube in a can, that is what I am using on the Scorpios chain. Just remember to shake the can so that the product is mixed up, and wait a couple of hours for the carrier to evaporate. Prolan also works as a cleaner as well; instead of degreasing the bloody chain with kero, just give the chain a good soaking with prolan while scrubbing with a toothbrush. Spin the chain while wiping off the excess with a paper towel and the chain is good to go. Afterwords I go over any parts of the bike that need protection, I even wipe down the exhaust pipe with Prolan. Zero rust after almost a year exposed to the Hokitika rains. I love this product: MADE IN NZ!!!

[jasonzc]

So which Prolan product is the one to use?

hahah this still havnt been aswered properly........ so medium grade in can as suggested by 888?
im in the market for new lube.. since mine goes EVeryWhere.

and how much does it cost and where can we get some from? in aucks region?

Sorry if this was answered b4, im a baddd reader. :P

thanks!

[Owl]

http://www.prolan.co.nz/distributors.html#

[ezirider]

Says on their website they are going to be at CD Field Days 18th March 2010 Site 43.
Might pay them a visit and grab some.

[Owl]

Says on their website they are going to be at CD Field Days 18th March 2010 Site 43.
Might pay them a visit and grab some.

Bay Engineer Supplies apparently sell it. Next to QEC Rangatikei St.

[Owl]

Ok, I've been using Prolan "Heavy" for the last few months and it really is good!

Here's what I found.

Positives:

1. It lasts quite a while +700km no problem.
2. It is very fling resistant - more like a dry wax.
3. Chain doesn't need to be warm before application.
4. Much cheaper than any chain lube/wax in a can and can be purchased in bulk.
5. Highly resistant to water/cleaning products, so no need to re-lube chain after cleaning bike.
6. Prolan is awesome for cleaning off existing Prolan on the chain.
7. Sprocket cover does not build up in a gunky mess.
8. Rollers don't stick and remain movable.
9. Has many other uses, including rust protection, waterproofing, protecting electrical connections etc.
10. It's not sticky/tacky.
11. Can be applied with a brush.

Negatives:

1. Doesn't like foreign lube, so chain should be thoroughly cleaned/dried (kero) before first application.
2. Application is messy and product drips/runs before the carrier dries. Ground mat essential.
3. It's a little more difficult to apply than "lube in a can", because it's a trigger bottle.
4. You tend to use more product than needed.

Overall I rate this product and will continue to use it. Now that I've got beyond the first WTF:shit: messy application that is!

[Spukey]

I'm really surprised that someone hasn't come up with a universal retrofit upgrade to driveshaft kit.

You remove the chain and bolt on the driveshaft kit and wallah, no more chain lubrication to worry about.

Might start work on making these myself.

[Owl]

Some of us like to get our hands dirty:yes:

Shafts are for cars!

[Ocean1]

3. It's a little more difficult to apply than "lube in a can", because it's a trigger bottle.

Haven't seen it in a squirty bottle. Can be got in an aerosol and in a light and heavy grease form also.

And yes, it's just sheep squeezings, but it has some surprising qualities. Outstanding lubrication ain't one of them, but it's not bad, and with O-ring chains the main objective is rustproofing.

[Owl]

Haven't seen it in a squirty bottle. Can be got in an aerosol and in a light and heavy grease form also.

And yes, it's just sheep squeezings, but it has some surprising qualities. Outstanding lubrication ain't one of them, but it's not bad, and with O-ring chains the main objective is rustproofing.

Yeah I've seen the aerosol and purchased the heavy grease/anti-seize, which I also find very good.
The liquid form comes in 3 grades light, medium, heavy and comes with free squirty bottle. After 2 months, I've only used 300ml and I'm using it for all sorts of things, so it's going further than first thought.

[imdying]

I'm really surprised that someone hasn't come up with a universal retrofit upgrade to driveshaft kit.

You remove the chain and bolt on the driveshaft kit and wallah, no more chain lubrication to worry about.

Might start work on making these myself.How big a shaft do you think we'd need for 160RWHP? Some performance cars use carbonfibre driveshafts for strength and weight reduction... and there's a guy in NZ who does a pretty awesome job of making these (tubes, not driveshafts... that's where you'd come in and make your millions).

[dipshit]

Have now decided to change tactics completely and try cleaning the chain with kerosene more regularly and only applying a silicone lubricant spray.

I've been very pleased with the results of just using a silicone spray lubricant on my chain.

Hardly ever have to adjust it these days. (maybe a bit of a tweak every 6000 ks or so)

Certainly adjusting the 600's chain far less often since switching to a silicone spray from conventional chain lubes.

[Owl]

Hardly ever have to adjust it these days. (maybe a bit of a tweak every 6000 ks or so)

Certainly adjusting the 600's chain far less often since switching to a silicone spray from conventional chain lubes.

Hmmmm, I've adjusted mine once in 35,000km:p

[Scouse]

Hmmmm, I've adjusted mine once in 35,000km:pSpeed Triples are like that it must be because they use a good quality chain to start with.

[fi5hy]

Wynn's Viscotene all the way best I have used yet

[Mully Clown]

I'm really surprised that someone hasn't come up with a universal retrofit upgrade to driveshaft kit.

You remove the chain and bolt on the driveshaft kit and wallah, no more chain lubrication to worry about.

Might start work on making these myself.
I saw a bike with a fully enclosed chain at a classic bike show recently. Must've been something along the lines of this http://auto.howstuffworks.com/1966-suzuki-t10.htm/printable

I think an enclosed belt-drive would be the ideal drive system.

[TygerTung]

No it doesn't.

I often use WD-40 when I am wanting to dissolve the grease from the wheel bearings on pushbikes when I am servicing them. It does dissolve grease quite effectively.

[NordieBoy]

I often use WD-40 when I am wanting to dissolve the grease from the wheel bearings on pushbikes when I am servicing them. It does dissolve grease quite effectively.

Yes it does. That's why chains are sealed, so nothing can get to the grease and if it did and dissolved it, then it'd have to get back past the seals before it caused a problem.

[pkplex]

Just popped over to farmlands and got me a cheeky can of prolan medium grade stuff, will see how it goes :)

[Owl]

Just popped over to farmlands and got me a cheeky can of prolan medium grade stuff, will see how it goes :)

I stopped using it years ago. While it was clean and kept the chain rust free, it just didn't lube very well and chain life was rather short overall.

[pkplex]

I stopped using it years ago. While it was clean and kept the chain rust free, it just didn't lube very well and chain life was rather short overall.

Well it seems to smell nice at least! :)