CRC and header pipe screws

[magicmonkey]

When I was cleaning the bike I thought it would be a good idea to spray some CRC on the screws for the header pipes. They're rusted to hell and I want to arrest and rust and replace them with screws which will actually work at some point in the future, after I'd applied CRC quite liberally for a while to work into the threads and loosen the rust. Slight problem though, whne I came into work this morning I noticed smoke coming from the engine which made me panic for a while, until I realised it was the header screws and the CRC was smoking. There's obviously some sort of reaction happening here but is that something which might cause problems? ie. does CRC become corrosive at high temps or is this just a bit of smoke which I shouldn't worry about?

I'm pretty sure it should be ok but I just wanted to double check with people more knowledgeable than me :)

[The Pastor]

its just burning off, its like when you spill oil on ur exhaust pipe.

[Pussy]

When I was cleaning the bike I thought it would be a good idea to spray some CRC on the screws for the header pipes. They're rusted to hell and I want to arrest and rust and replace them with screws which will actually work at some point in the future, after I'd applied CRC quite liberally for a while to work into the threads and loosen the rust. Slight problem though, whne I came into work this morning I noticed smoke coming from the engine which made me panic for a while, until I realised it was the header screws and the CRC was smoking. There's obviously some sort of reaction happening here but is that something which might cause problems? ie. does CRC become corrosive at high temps or is this just a bit of smoke which I shouldn't worry about?

I'm pretty sure it should be ok but I just wanted to double check with people more knowledgeable than me :)

Nowt to worry about!

[imdying]

Replace them with studs, not more screws.

[FROSTY]

MM-try penatrating oil rather than CRC.

[magicmonkey]

Sweet :) I didn't really think there would be too much to worry about but smoke from the engine always makes me a kinda worried!

[ManDownUnder]

Sweet :) I didn't really think there would be too much to worry about but smoke from the engine always makes me a kinda worried!

Not a bad approach to have mate.

[magicmonkey]

MM-try penatrating oil rather than CRC.

I was planning on CRCing it for a few weeks (at the weekly clean) and then hitting it with a penetrating oil when it comes time to actually remove them. I haven't got any replacements yet as it was just a passing thought as I was cleaning the bike, might get down the hardware store and pick some up this weekend though...

[FROSTY]

I was planning on CRCing it for a few weeks (at the weekly clean) and then hitting it with a penetrating oil when it comes time to actually remove them. I haven't got any replacements yet as it was just a passing thought as I was cleaning the bike, might get down the hardware store and pick some up this weekend though...
CRC might do the job but you have the best chance usuing the other stuff.

[magicmonkey]

CRC might do the job but you have the best chance usuing the other stuff.

cool, will do :) I need to add some of that stuff to my tool box anyway, it's notably lacking in that department!

[Pussy]

Inox is good stuff

[glegge]

Just a note, when you go to replace them, you can get bolts that are made for exhaust manifolds and the such, they resist corosian and the temperature, so if you where to replace them, it may pay to investigate getting some of these.
dont ask me what's so special about them, but i just know from turning a few of them that they come out much easier than the old standard bolts used in older cars/bikes and last longer.
they probably have a certain % of some different metal in them or something - or a coating. who knows. (someone here will i'm sure)

[magicmonkey]

Just a note, when you go to replace them, you can get bolts that are made for exhaust manifolds and the such, they resist corosian and the temperature, so if you where to replace them, it may pay to investigate getting some of these.
dont ask me what's so special about them, but i just know from turning a few of them that they come out much easier than the old standard bolts used in older cars/bikes and last longer.
they probably have a certain % of some different metal in them or something - or a coating. who knows. (someone here will i'm sure)

I don't suppose you have any idea where I'd pick those up in Welly do you?

[glegge]

I don't suppose you have any idea where I'd pick those up in Welly do you?

i must confess i have never bought any 'after market' ones, only genuine replacements for cars i have worked on in the past.

If you know the length thread and diameter, you could try the likes of schrodico(sp?) on tory street, 2 francis place. (looks like they are called tony's now)

it may pay - in discussions with them, to ask about bolts/studs for exhaust manifolds and let them tell you whats available, but i'm sure there are some special ones, but i'm just not sure of the details sorry.

[magicmonkey]

i must confess i have never bought any 'after market' ones, only genuine replacements for cars i have worked on in the past.

If you know the length thread and diameter, you could try the likes of schrodico(sp?) on tory street, 2 francis place. (looks like they are called tony's now)

it may pay - in discussions with them, to ask about bolts/studs for exhaust manifolds and let them tell you whats available, but i'm sure there are some special ones, but i'm just not sure of the details sorry.

sweet, just found them on street view. I was intending to pop down to repco and get a new spark plug on my lunch break but this place is even closer :)

[magicmonkey]

i must confess i have never bought any 'after market' ones, only genuine replacements for cars i have worked on in the past.

If you know the length thread and diameter, you could try the likes of schrodico(sp?) on tory street, 2 francis place. (looks like they are called tony's now)

it may pay - in discussions with them, to ask about bolts/studs for exhaust manifolds and let them tell you whats available, but i'm sure there are some special ones, but i'm just not sure of the details sorry.

Just popped in there and while they don't do spark plugs, he's a really helpful chappy, told me to come in with the bits I want replacing and he'd match them up. Also found a place that sells nuts and bolts so I can replace all the rusted ones with decent ones, awesome!

[CookMySock]

If the exhaust has studs, then replace the nuts with blind ones, like these.

http://www.edsmotorsport.co.uk/ekmps/shops/edsmotorsport10/resources/Image/blind-nuts2.jpg

Fit them with some coppercoat, and you or the next owner will never have problems getting them off.

Steve

[magicmonkey]

well, I now have nice, shiney, new stainless steel bolts for my headlight and the header pipes; it set me back $5.30 and I can relax knowing that they will probably be the last thing on a chinese GN to rust :)

The bolts were a bit odd though, each pipe had one bolt and one stud. One of the studs came out without any problems, the other one is a bit more stubborn and released the nut before the block. I'll try popping 2 nuts on there and tightening them together then undoing them both at the same time but I'm not 100% sure that'll work. Does anyone know of any tricks that might help if that doesn't work?

[peasea]

well, I now have nice, shiney, new stainless steel bolts for my headlight and the header pipes; it set me back $5.30 and I can relax knowing that they will probably be the last thing on a chinese GN to rust :)

The bolts were a bit odd though, each pipe had one bolt and one stud. One of the studs came out without any problems, the other one is a bit more stubborn and released the nut before the block. I'll try popping 2 nuts on there and tightening them together then undoing them both at the same time but I'm not 100% sure that'll work. Does anyone know of any tricks that might help if that doesn't work?

Apply a little bit of heat where the stud meets the head, don't go mad though. When you fit the new bolts add some anti-sieze compound to the thread. You can buy this at most auto or engineering outlets, copper slip is ok but there are plenty of others. It pays to have a tube of a/s compound handy, it does no harm on spark plug threads etc.

[Flip]

The copper coat the anti seize stuff is great stuff. It will stop the threads corroding together. Used in the marine industry for just such purposes. Good advice from peasea.

[gatch]

I use nickel based anti seize for high temp areas, the spiel is it retains its properties at a higher temp etc, never noticed a difference personally, work pays for it..

[magicmonkey]

Well, the old '2 nuts' trick did the job and provided me with a handy euphamism for later use ;)

I think I'll pop out and get some of that anti-seize stuff a bit later, I doubt I'll ever need to get them off again but it'll be nice for the next owners to be able to sort them out easilly when I sell it

[roadracingoldfart]

Just keep in mind that Copper and Alloy dont mix at all , use a Nickel compound .


PS; Stainless is not ideal for an exhaust stud as the stuff hates being heated and cooled lots of times. H/T studs and a brass deep nut is always easily removed at a later date and freely available from most Repcos and the likes of Schrodoco (Tony's ) .


Paul.

[scumdog]

Just a note, when you go to replace them, you can get bolts that are made for exhaust manifolds and the such, they resist corosian and the temperature, so if you where to replace them, it may pay to investigate getting some of these.
dont ask me what's so special about them, but i just know from turning a few of them that they come out much easier than the old standard bolts used in older cars/bikes and last longer.
they probably have a certain % of some different metal in them or something - or a coating. who knows. (someone here will i'm sure)


More $$$ but I use stainless Allen-head bolts (16 of them) on the exhaust flanges on my hot-rods, never had them stick, another not so costly idea is smearing the threads of the bolts with 'Kopper-Kote' or similar anti-sieze compound.

EDIT: I see similar info above, hadn't read whole thread.