Ok to EPOXY glue & KENAD-IT to attach rear brake lever and fairing stay?

[Zapf]

Hello guys, should it be ok to Epoxy glue to attach and then use KENAD-IT to re-enforce a broken rear brake lever and a broken front fairing stay (metal bit that holds the front fairing/screen/mirror up)?

and will it be ok for warrent?

thanks

[Mr Skid]

Hello guys, should it be ok to Epoxy glue to attach and then use KENAD-IT to re-enforce a broken rear brake lever and a broken front fairing stay (metal bit that holds the front fairing/screen/mirror up)?

and will it be ok for warrent?

thanksCable ties and/or hemp rope are the only approved methods for this type of repair. It might pay to reinforce any repairs with a couple of ice block sticks for peace of mind.

[2_SL0]

Cable ties and/or hemp rope are the only approved methods for this type of repair. It might pay to reinforce any repairs with a couple of ice block sticks for peace of mind.

A true quality repair, if I do say so myself. :niceone:

[Quasievil]

KENAD-IT to re-enforce a broken rear brake lever

Im not sure on this one, maybe better to buy a new one dont ya reckon ?? whats the state of it ? piccie

[SPman]

A true quality repair, if I do say so myself. :niceone:

In true KK fashion :niceone:

[XTC]

Cable ties and/or hemp rope are the only approved methods for this type of repair. It might pay to reinforce any repairs with a couple of ice block sticks for peace of mind.
But the thing is that Mr Shid is not joking.... :killingme I've seen his bike :msn-wink: :laugh:

[JohnBoy]

i would reconmend that you replace them.
if you cant get the parts for a while (ie: 2 week back order from Japan) then maybe you could bodgie them until they arrive.

[Jackrat]

:brick: :brick: no no no no no,bloody hell NO.
What happens when it fails ??,an it will.
You gonn'a put your feet down an pray !!
Mate,buy a new one,PLEASE.
I don't want to read about what happens if you don't. :mad:

[geoffm]

Hello guys, should it be ok to Epoxy glue to attach and then use KENAD-IT to re-enforce a broken rear brake lever and a broken front fairing stay (metal bit that holds the front fairing/screen/mirror up)?

and will it be ok for warrent?

thanks

Brake lever would fail. Apart from which, having the brake lever snap off at the wrong moment would ruin your day.
Why not get them welded? If I was bakc in Akl, I would do it for you.
Geoff

[Ixion]

Brake lever would fail. Apart from which, having the brake lever snap off at the wrong moment would ruin your day.
Why not get them welded? If I was bakc in Akl, I would do it for you.
Geoff

Even welding on a steel brake lever I would hesitate about. On an alloy lever definately not.

[Ixion]

Cable ties and/or hemp rope are the only approved methods for this type of repair. It might pay to reinforce any repairs with a couple of ice block sticks for peace of mind.

Goodness. You, Sir are clearly a bodger from way back. Every good back yard mechanic knows that the correct material for this is No 8 fencing wire, reinforced with a bit of concrete reinforcing rod nicked from the construction site down the road . Cable ties indeed . :killingme

[Drunken Monkey]

Hello guys, should it be ok to Epoxy glue to attach and then use KENAD-IT to re-enforce a broken rear brake lever and a broken front fairing stay (metal bit that holds the front fairing/screen/mirror up)?

and will it be ok for warrent?

thanks

I wouldn't recommend using glue + knead-it on any 'critical' component, especially the brakes. Where is the break in your rear brake lever? If it's the foot pad part of the lever broken off from the main shaft, you could replace it with a bolt. Mt Eden M-C do an after-market branded replacement which is only around $50 instead of the $100+ for the OEM.

Find an alloy welder to repair the top fairing mount.

[Drunken Monkey]

Even welding on a steel brake lever I would hesitate about. On an alloy lever definately not.

As for steel, that all depends on the weld. I think some people are a little over-suspicous/paranoid of welding. A good welder could probably make a stronger join than the rest of the component. I saw an engineering doco on some bridge parts where that was the case - the weld where 2 components joined was able to bear larger loads than the individual components themselves. It's all about how good the job is.

Don't know much about alloy welding, so I'll stick to the paranoia with you on that one. My experience is: still not softening, a bit more flame, still not softening, a bit more flame, still not softening, a teensy bit more flame, *blob*, oh bugger I've melted the whole f'n thing now.

[Ixion]

As for steel, that all depends on the weld. I think some people are a little over-suspicous/paranoid of welding. A good welder could probably make a stronger join than the rest of the component. I saw an engineering doco on some bridge parts where that was the case - the weld where 2 components joined was able to bear larger loads than the individual components themselves. It's all about how good the job is.

Don't know much about alloy welding, so I'll stick to the paranoia with you on that one. My experience is: still not softening, a bit more flame, still not softening, a bit more flame, still not softening, a teensy bit more flame, *blob*, oh bugger I've melted the whole f'n thing now.

A good welder working with good steel can make a join that's stronger than the original metal. Thing here is the lever has (presumably) been snapped. That means the metal surrounding the break has been majorly stressed. What that has done it it's crystalline stucture is any mans guess (also I don't know if gear levers are heat treated at all. They werent in the old days, but who knows nowdays.) It's more complex (and thus more dodgy) than a nice clean saw cut join

TIG welder can get good results in ali, but same caveat re stress loading by whatever broke it With gas when I was doing it regularly I could get pretty good results. Secret is to preheat, and remember that ali is hot short. As you say, boof, and it all collapses. And a *good* flux. But I really wouldn't want to do it on a part as critical and stressed as a brake lever. If necessary (vintage bike or something) I'd fabricate a new lever from scratch and weld in the cut off splined bit.

[Zapf]

ok... so by the sounds of it no on the lever hur :P

Any good welders on here would do a fairing stay? I think its either alum or some alloy.

TS, where are you getting yours welded?

tkns.

[FROSTY]

Brugar engineering dude.But before ya spend hard earned coiin go visit a couple of wreckers. -Could be they have identical bits off a different model in stock and possibly cheaper than the weld job.

[Zapf]

Brugar engineering dude.But before ya spend hard earned coiin go visit a couple of wreckers. -Could be they have identical bits off a different model in stock and possibly cheaper than the weld job.

thanks,

Also the the bolt that connects the footpeg to the rearsets, is bent. As a result the footpeg is on an angle.

would it be ok to?

1.) bent the bolt back? how?

2.) get new bolt from engineering shop, any recommendations?

thanks

[Ixion]

thanks,

Also the the bolt that connects the footpeg to the rearsets, is bent. As a result the footpeg is on an angle.

would it be ok to?

1.) bent the bolt back? how?

2.) get new bolt from engineering shop, any recommendations?

thanks

If it's just an ordinary bolt, safe course would be to get a new one from the bike shop. Engineering supplies may not want to sell a single one.

But myself, I'd probably bend it back. Either remove it and straighten it in a vice . Or do the simple thing. Give the footpeg a couple of ruddy good kicks. Usually works.

[Zed]

Hello guys, should it be ok to Epoxy glue to attach and then use KENAD-IT to re-enforce a broken rear brake lever and a broken front fairing stay (metal bit that holds the front fairing/screen/mirror up)?

and will it be ok for warrent?

thanksIf I was you Zapf I wouldn't bother with these repairs on my *new* wheels, I'd buy brand new replacements. I would want my *new* bike to remain looking new! Surely it can't be a financial issue? If you can afford to buy a brand new Gixxer750 you should be able to afford these small replacement parts.

By the looks of your other thread there is a fair bit of cosmetic damage. I'd seriously consider an insurance claim to get it back into *new* showroom looking condition...but that's just me! :niceone:

[Zapf]

If I was you Zapf I wouldn't bother with these repairs on my *new* wheels, I'd buy brand new replacements. I would want my *new* bike to remain looking new! Surely it can't be a financial issue? If you can afford to buy a brand new Gixxer750 you should be able to afford these small replacement parts.

By the looks of your other thread there is a fair bit of cosmetic damage. I'd seriously consider an insurance claim to get it back into *new* showroom looking condition...but that's just me! :niceone:

its true about what you say... I am trying to curb my habit on spending more and more $$$ on bikes. Its like a big black hole. Hence :crybaby:

[NhuanH]

If I was you Zapf I wouldn't bother with these repairs on my *new* wheels, I'd buy brand new replacements. I would want my *new* bike to remain looking new! Surely it can't be a financial issue? If you can afford to buy a brand new Gixxer750 you should be able to afford these small replacement parts.

By the looks of your other thread there is a fair bit of cosmetic damage. I'd seriously consider an insurance claim to get it back into *new* showroom looking condition...but that's just me! :niceone:

I struggled to get my Gix750 back to new condition after I put it down :wacko:

Mind you, it was a bit older, whopping 8000kms on it.... :whistle:

Still :cry: about it now, loved me that Gixxer.

[sAsLEX]

If it's just an ordinary bolt, safe course would be to get a new one from the bike shop. Engineering supplies may not want to sell a single one.



I have had good service from EDL fasteners even though I only ever get a couple of bolts at a time, turned up on my bike once got talking to the guy and he just gave me some samples!!!!

[750Y]

Pah!! rear brake lever? who needs it! just cut a strip of tread off an old car tyre & glue it to the bottom of your jandal... :laugh:

[Krusti]

ok... so by the sounds of it no on the lever hur :P

Any good welders on here would do a fairing stay? I think its either alum or some alloy.

TS, where are you getting yours welded?

tkns.

Give us a pic and I'll make one out of an old wooden fence baton....I'll even paint it for ya for free...:D

Pine or Totora extra...:killingme

[2_SL0]

Pah!! rear brake lever? who needs it! just cut a strip of tread off an old car tyre & glue it to the bottom of your jandal... :laugh:


Harden up, forget the jandel, glue it to your foot. As for repairs my fabricating skills are world wide famous in Hunua, I can take something thats not broken and break it for you. :whistle:

[Ixion]

Harden up, forget the jandel, glue it to your foot. As for repairs my fabricating skills are world wide famous in Hunua, I can take something thats not broken and break it for you. :whistle:

Glue. Pah, soft that's what the younger generation is. Don't know what the world's coming to. In my day we nailed the ruber on with six inch nails. Through the foot and clenched over on top.