Fuck fuck fuck - stripped sump plug

[p.dath]

Striped my sump plug today.

Day started innocently enough. Went to jump onto KB. Oh that's right, down for maintenance. Checked with a couple of friends to see if anyone wants to come for a ride. Nope. Went to check for rides online, oh that's right.

Decide to change oil filter and oil. It's not quite due yet, but I'm going to an AMCC track day on the 17th, and given I had some free time, would rather do it now and have fresh oil before for track day.

I usually get semi-synthetic, but when I went to get some from Cycletreads the fully Synthetic Mobil was only about $15 more. So what the hell, get the good stuff. Day looking good so far.

Start the engine while I poodle around getting out all oil drain tray and tools and bits and pieces. Engine is nice and warm by the time I'm ready to start. Kill the engine and get to work.

I'm thinking the sump plug is really stuck on tight. At last, it starts to become free, and then I have a horrible relisation. I'm looking down on things, so I'm actually rotating the plug clockwise, not anti-clockwise.

Crap. Well I still manage to unscrew the plug, so that's a good sign. As I unscrew it there is little sliver flecks of metal. And when it finally comes out I can definately see a big chunk of ther thread is munted on it.

I have a spare bolt with the same thread, so I test it on the sump housing. To some relief, it still seems to screw in fine, and hold some force. So I'm hoping the sump thread is fine, and just the plug is fucked.

Off down to Cycletreads. Bugger bugger bugger. None in stock. Can't get a new one till next week. Try a couple of other places, but they are all closed, or don't have the right sump plug in stock.


So unfortunately, no riding for me for the next week. Right in the middle of this perfect weather, and while I am on leave from work.

Crap.

[steve_t]

Bugger bugger bugger. U gotta watch out for that righty tighty stuff! Hope your sump thread is OK. Stink timing. Maybe some duct tape til u get a new plug?:dodge::buggerd:

[The Everlasting]

Damm that sucks.

Haha how long would duct tape hold,about a minute?

[Spyke]

I think if you were really desperate you could jam a cork in the hole.

[Katman]

I have a spare bolt with the same thread, so I test it on the sump housing. To some relief, it still seems to screw in fine, and hold some force. So I'm hoping the sump thread is fine, and just the plug is fucked.
.

If you've managed to discover a sump plug that strips it's thread rather than stripping the alloy casting, let us know. I'm sure apprentices worldwide would breathe a sigh of relief.

[Grumpy]

Not sure if it's one of those urban myths or not but I seem to remember someone telling me that a sparkplug is the same thread so if ever your stuck and you can break the ceramic bit off it's a quick fix. So, urban myth or true? I don't want to test it on my bike but am curious.

[hayd3n]

your sump may need a helicoil(it puts a new thread into your sump)
it would pay to remove the sump as there could be more swatf in there

[bsasuper]

Fuck, Fuck, Fuck

with language like this its no fuckin wonder ya stripped it :yes:

if the sump thread is stuffed, its easily fuckin fixed though:yes:

[sosman]

Fuck, Fuck, Fuck

with language like this its no fuckin wonder ya stripped it :yes:

if the sump thread is stuffed, its easily fuckin fixed though:yes:

With language like that... I started reading the thread......lol

[T.W.R]

read this thread

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/34997-Can-t-believe-this-shit?p=740828

[CookMySock]

The part of the hyo sump that has the drain bung has a strainer housing behind it. The upside is, if you fuck the sump plug you just buy a new strainer housing and bolt it on and you are out of jail free.

Steve

[vifferman]

If you haven't already got some, get some teflon tape from Mitre 10 or wherever, and wrap it around the sump plug anti-clockwise looking at the plug from the hex end. (It should be wrapping around in the opposite direction to the way it screws in, so that the 'tail' isn't leading when you screw it in). Give it about three turns of tape. This will stop it leaking and should help stop it coming undone, and will also mean you can tighten the plug without inflicting further damage.
As the Katman says, it's very unlikely it's the plug that stripped - more'n likely you stripped the threads in the sump, which means you will need a thread insert (Helicoil or the like), as the sump is alloy and the plug steel. You can get away with doing this with the sump in place if the new thread for the insert is tapped with lots of grease, then the sump is flushed out with kero or whatever to wash the swarf out.

Good luck.

[p.dath]

Damm that sucks.

Haha how long would duct tape hold,about a minute?

About as long as it would to drain the oil out of the engine while it is running with no sump plug in. :)


If you've managed to discover a sump plug that strips it's thread rather than stripping the alloy casting, let us know. I'm sure apprentices worldwide would breathe a sigh of relief.

Crap. The thread on the sump plug itself is definately munted. It's quite obvious looking at the plug. I was kinda hoping the sump might be okay. Looks like the job just got bigger.


your sump may need a helicoil(it puts a new thread into your sump)
it would pay to remove the sump as there could be more swatf in there

I'll look into the helicoil. I might just give the new plug I've got ordered in a quick try first. The next service after this one is a major one, and I wont attempt to do that one myself (got to change the spark plug as well, which is an absolute bitch on my bike). I might see if I get lucky, and that it will last till then.

Crap. The more I think about it, I really should get that helicoil. Trying to do things the quick easy way usually makes it take much longer.


If you haven't already got some, get some teflon tape from Mitre 10 or wherever, and wrap it around the sump plug anti-clockwise looking at the plug from the hex end. (It should be wrapping around in the opposite direction to the way it screws in, so that the 'tail' isn't leading when you screw it in). Give it about three turns of tape. This will stop it leaking and should help stop it coming undone, and will also mean you can tighten the plug without inflicting further damage.
As the Katman says, it's very unlikely it's the plug that stripped - more'n likely you stripped the threads in the sump, which means you will need a thread insert (Helicoil or the like), as the sump is alloy and the plug steel. You can get away with doing this with the sump in place if the new thread for the insert is tapped with lots of grease, then the sump is flushed out with kero or whatever to wash the swarf out.

Another quick question. THe sump plug has only ever had a metal washer on it. I've always experienced a tiny amount of leakage. Not enough to cause an issue. I got a new metal washer, but I was wondering if it should also have some kind of rubber o-ring to help it seal? But then I was wondering if rubber might break down with the heat.
Your thoughts?

[steve_t]

About as long as it would to drain the oil out of the engine while it is running with no sump plug in. :)

Another quick question. THe sump plug has only ever had a metal washer on it. I've always experienced a tiny amount of leakage. Not enough to cause an issue. I got a new metal washer, but I was wondering if it should also have some kind of rubber o-ring to help it seal? But then I was wondering if rubber might break down with the heat.
Your thoughts?

LOL. Glad u realized I was only joking about the duct tape ;)

Normally a sump plug gets a metal 'crush' washer which adapts well and does not leak. I'd hope a new one would be fine and stop your tiny leakage :niceone:

[jafar]

Get a dowty washer (sp) from a engineering store & try that, they are made for high pressure & will cope with the temperature in your sump.:sunny:

[The Lone Rider]

I have had this happen recently... the fix I used (and it's still working well) is to simply tap the sump to the next size up. Which for me was going to an imperial size. Once tapped and fitted with a new bolt (with plumbers tape around the thread) and filled the sump with oil, and then drained it. Then put the bolt back in with a crush washer and filled all up again with oil.

Places like repco stock crush washers.. I believe they are different than just "normal washers"


Learnt most of this with the help of TWR and a bit of research online.


Further solution is not to strip it again...

Really bad damage you will either have to replace the sump, or remove it and see if you can weld up the hold, then drill and tap it.

[OutForADuck]

dude sorry to hear that...

Vifferman is onto it... you need a helicoil and someone that knows what they are doing. The leak you have had up until now is probably related to a cross thread anyway, so you might find that a new washer and helicoil will fix that along the way.

If you go down the fix in place and flush route, just make sure you also change the oil after a very short run, the Kero is hard to completely remove first time and will thin the first oil you put through.

Sorry to hear your off the road dude.... but not a big one to fix in the great scheme of things.

[crazyhorse]

Striped my sump plug today.

......Decide to change oil filter and oil.

I had this happen to me - decided to do it myself under the guidance of my personal instructor (yeah right), and someone had already had a problem with it in the past. So here I was, no way to fix it at home, so had to trailer it to the bike shop next available working day and had a helicoil installed. So yip, I know all about it going wrong :)

[Katman]

And when you helicoil the sump make sure you drill it at precisely the right angle. (If you do it in place you will most likely need the bike lying right over on it's side).

Get the drilling process even a few degrees out and you will end up with a constantly leaking plug.

[Danae]

Next time lie down next to the bike when removing the plug. It gets your orientations right so you can more easily see which way to turn the spanner

[vindy500]

Or use a socket set on the L setting :)

[crazyhorse]

Next time lie down next to the bike when removing the plug. It gets your orientations right so you can more easily see which way to turn the spanner

Why not turn the bike upside down - make it much easier to work on :rofl:

[p.dath]

And when you helicoil the sump make sure you drill it at precisely the right angle. (If you do it in place you will most likely need the bike lying right over on it's side).

Get the drilling process even a few degrees out and you will end up with a constantly leaking plug.

I think your comments have convinced me not to do the Helicoil myself. I suspect that each time it isn't done right it will get much harder to fix properly next time.

[Pussy]

Why not turn the bike upside down - make it much easier to work on :rofl:
If you do that, you won't even have to remove the sump plug... just drain the oil from the filler cap... sorted! :niceone:

[YellowDog]

Hey Dath Vader, I think you got away very cheaply from your blonde moment.

[crazyhorse]

If you do that, you won't even have to remove the sump plug... just drain the oil from the filler cap... sorted! :niceone:

Yeah, that's exactly what I was thinking too LOL............. :killingme

[FROSTY]

Dude hangon DONT panic.The sump plug has a lot of threads as does the sump. loss of say half a thread isn't the end of the world. You MAY get a replacement sump plug. from waitamata hydraulics, supersheep auto's or Ripco. or action wreckers may have one.bring the darn thing over here I might have one in one of my boxs of bits.
I'm not saying you WON"T need to do ahelicoil Im saying you may not. Bring the plug over here and let me have a looksee for ya.

[p.dath]

Dude hangon DONT panic.The sump plug has a lot of threads as does the sump. loss of say half a thread isn't the end of the world. You MAY get a replacement sump plug. from waitamata hydraulics, supersheep auto's or Ripco. or action wreckers may have one.bring the darn thing over here I might have one in one of my boxs of bits.
I'm not saying you WON"T need to do ahelicoil Im saying you may not. Bring the plug over here and let me have a looksee for ya.

I'll take a pictuire later on. I'd say a small number of the threads on the plug are completely gone, and I'd say a chunk of them a sheared off (not as "high" you might say above the bottom of the thread that they used to be).

[dipshit]

Or use a socket set on the L setting

That's what I always do for sump bungs. A ratchet set to loosen so you can't go wrong. And a torque wrench for doing it up again.

[Pussy]

And a torque wrench for doing it up again.
Yep 16.5 ft/lbs (or 23nm) for Suzuki ones....

[YellowDog]

Anyone use those magnetic sump plugs?

I like the idea however I was just wondering if the potential metalic debris would be attracted to a magnet?

[gatch]

I have had this happen recently... the fix I used (and it's still working well) is to simply tap the sump to the next size up. Which for me was going to an imperial size. Once tapped and fitted with a new bolt (with plumbers tape around the thread) and filled the sump with oil, and then drained it. Then put the bolt back in with a crush washer and filled all up again with oil.

Places like repco stock crush washers.. I believe they are different than just "normal washers"


Learnt most of this with the help of TWR and a bit of research online.


Further solution is not to strip it again...

Really bad damage you will either have to replace the sump, or remove it and see if you can weld up the hold, then drill and tap it.


If you haven't already got some, get some teflon tape from Mitre 10 or wherever, and wrap it around the sump plug anti-clockwise looking at the plug from the hex end. (It should be wrapping around in the opposite direction to the way it screws in, so that the 'tail' isn't leading when you screw it in). Give it about three turns of tape. This will stop it leaking and should help stop it coming undone, and will also mean you can tighten the plug without inflicting further damage.
As the Katman says, it's very unlikely it's the plug that stripped - more'n likely you stripped the threads in the sump, which means you will need a thread insert (Helicoil or the like), as the sump is alloy and the plug steel. You can get away with doing this with the sump in place if the new thread for the insert is tapped with lots of grease, then the sump is flushed out with kero or whatever to wash the swarf out.

Good luck.

As frosty pointed out, a couple of threads may not be enough to cause concern. If however a new plug and crush washer doesn't seal up your sump, then either of the above options are the go. Getting it done by engineers however will entail the removal of the sump, because as Katman mentioned, if you a more than a degree or so out, the crush washer will not"crush" and you will leak..


Anyone use those magnetic sump plugs?

I like the idea however I was just wondering if the potential metalic debris would be attracted to a magnet?

Aluminium won't stick to the magnet, any powder coming off the engine internals will though, these are common place in aeronautical engine and gear cases, and are used as an indicator of component wear.

[The Lone Rider]

Getting it done by engineers however will entail the removal of the sump, because as Katman mentioned, if you a more than a degree or so out, the crush washer will not"crush" and you will leak..

I had it done by an engineer at work. We didn't take the sump off... we just lifted the bike and crawled under it. It was a last minute fix though - mine was leaking pretty bad.

[p.dath]

I had it done by an engineer at work. We didn't take the sump off... we just lifted the bike and crawled under it. It was a last minute fix though - mine was leaking pretty bad.

I suspect the difference would be needing an expert with a drill who was careful enough to not only leave no debry in the sump but also get the perfect angle, or take the sump off and have someone drill it using a drill press so they can get the angle perfect - which should only need an average engineer. :)

[scumdog]

Got my cuzzy to make a custom longer sump plug from a bolt - as somebody mentioned earlier it is often the threads nearest the outside that get munted, the ones further in are often left undamaged - hence why I got the longer sump-plug (complete with O-ring grove under the head of it, used a neoprene O-ring and never leaked a single drop, ever).

[FROSTY]

SOOO--what happened--did it go in oK usuing the copper washer??
The other way to do it is to use a Helicoil SLOWLY cutting the thread. The secret is to do it a thread at a time and use grease so the swarf gets stuck to the tap tool

[kwaka_crasher]

Don't helicoil - go up to the next nearest size where the ID is sufficient to clear the OD of the existing thread.

[p.dath]

I gave Frosty a visit yesterday, and he gave me lots of good advice (thank you Frosty!). I ended up going to Repco this morning, and buying another sump plug. However when I screw it in I can't get it up to the correct torque before it starts slipping. So that means the sump thread is damaged worse than I had first hoped.

Taking the sump off on my bike would take someone of my abilities a long time. The exhaust headers effectively have to be removed to get to the sump. And to get to the exhaust headers is probably going to be hard as well.

So reluctantly, I pushed the bike around to Cycletreads this morning (puff puff!) and spoke to Andrew. They are going to take the sump off for me and send it away to an engineering company in Albany. He's warned me that my model of my bike has a habit of cracking the case where the sump plug goes when the sump plug is overtightened, and they wont be able to see if it is cracked till they take off the sump. If it is cracked then its going to need to be welded up before a helicoil can be put in. And the cost of getting it welded and having a helicoil put in is almost the same cost as getting a brand new sump.
Hopefully it will just need the helicoil.

So it looks like the bike could be off the road anywhere from 2 to 6 weeks. I hope I get it back in time for the AMCC trackday on the 17th. Worst case I guess I'll relinquish my spot so someone else can have it, and go help the marshals.

I was going to get Cycletreads to do my next service, as it is a bit of a major. So while they have the bike in lots of bits getting the sump off I've decided to get that next service done early (since that involves taking the bike to bits anyway).


And you know the absolute worst? I forgot to put the beers I bought yesterday in the fridge. Now I have warm Steinlager Pure to console my misery. Warm beer. Really.

[Leyton]

Yeah thats good news dude :)

Taking the sump off and doing a top job is a good plan. They heat the sump up to just past cherry red to see if there are any cracks in it. If I was doing this I would drill and retap into a bigger size.

If it happend again, then a heli coil would be the go.. then if again I would machine up a new hole all threaded and ready to rock, and weld it in place :)

Providing that I still had my workbench that I had to sell WAHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!

[p.dath]

They heat the sump up to just past cherry red to see if there are any cracks in it.

You be brave to heat an aluminium part up to red heat? Wouldn't it simply melt?

[Leyton]

You be brave to heat an aluminium part up to red heat? Wouldn't it simply melt?

Nah you would not do it with that no. Sorry thought it was metal :)

Yes it would simply melt LOL and not stay red for long hehe

[Leyton]

You be brave to heat an aluminium part up to red heat? Wouldn't it simply melt?

Yikes! Yeah it would not stay red for long :) Sorry thought your sump was metal :P Was not reading! LOL

Leyton

[Leyton]

This thread is playing up.. I accidently posted the same thing two times. Then I deleted one, and it deleted both. And then I added one, and now I see the other? Aye ?

[quickbuck]

Good stuff... Shame a simple job has turned into a major!

If it is cracked, and they are going to weld it up, then I would actually putting a bit of weld in the hole and then re tapping it to original size, as opposed to helicoiling the sump.
Thing with helicoils is they have a bad habit of coming out if there is a slightest bit of corrosion underneath them.

Oils that are involved in the combustion process can become quite acidic... so the chances are....

Of course there is always the option of looking for another Sump for your bike somewhere.... The CBR engines went through a few models, so there is bound to be a brocken one somewhere.

[p.dath]

Of course there is always the option of looking for another Sump for your bike somewhere.... The CBR engines went through a few models, so there is bound to be a brocken one somewhere.

Just looked into that. Trouble is, they didn't want to sell just the sump (makes the rest of the engine worthless), and a brand new sump from Honda is a lot cheaper than a second hand engine.

[vifferman]

Aye ?
Nay.

(I think you meant "Eh?")

[quickbuck]

Nah you would not do it with that no. Sorry thought it was metal :)

Yes it would simply melt LOL and not stay red for long hehe

CBR's have been around a while.... But they are far more high tech than the Model T Ford.
The sump IS made of Metal, but it is an Aluminium Alloy of some composition..... Likely to be 6000 Series if you can weld it.
Then you can weld almost anything these days ;)

[quickbuck]

Just looked into that. Trouble is, they didn't want to sell just the sump (makes the rest of the engine worthless).
A shame the CBR motors are so reliable then isn't it....

If it was something else, there is a very good chance of finding one that has gone CLACK!

[steve_t]

And you know the absolute worst? I forgot to put the beers I bought yesterday in the fridge. Now I have warm Steinlager Pure to console my misery. Warm beer. Really.

You have to remember to do the REALLY important things at least! Warm beer? Bleh... crazy Poms:sick:

[FROSTY]

that totally sucks dude.

[peasea]

I think if you were really desperate you could jam a cork in the hole.

Or a tampon perhaps?

Some years ago a guy I know was working on his dragster. He had a habit of being a bit heavy handed and in front of his missus (and a shed full of helpful types) he leaned on a power bar and snapped a bolt. His missus brought the place down with this classic line (which I should apply to this sump plug issue).........."Ya fuckin' fuckwit, ya fuckin' fucked it!"

[peasea]

Got my cuzzy to make a custom longer sump plug from a bolt - as somebody mentioned earlier it is often the threads nearest the outside that get munted, the ones further in are often left undamaged - hence why I got the longer sump-plug (complete with O-ring grove under the head of it, used a neoprene O-ring and never leaked a single drop, ever).

Ya have to put oil in it dude!

[peasea]

I gave Frosty a visit yesterday, and he gave me lots of good advice (thank you Frosty!). I ended up going to Repco this morning, and buying another sump plug. However when I screw it in I can't get it up to the correct torque before it starts slipping. So that means the sump thread is damaged worse than I had first hoped.

Taking the sump off on my bike would take someone of my abilities a long time. The exhaust headers effectively have to be removed to get to the sump. And to get to the exhaust headers is probably going to be hard as well.

So reluctantly, I pushed the bike around to Cycletreads this morning (puff puff!) and spoke to Andrew. They are going to take the sump off for me and send it away to an engineering company in Albany. He's warned me that my model of my bike has a habit of cracking the case where the sump plug goes when the sump plug is overtightened, and they wont be able to see if it is cracked till they take off the sump. If it is cracked then its going to need to be welded up before a helicoil can be put in. And the cost of getting it welded and having a helicoil put in is almost the same cost as getting a brand new sump.
Hopefully it will just need the helicoil.

So it looks like the bike could be off the road anywhere from 2 to 6 weeks. I hope I get it back in time for the AMCC trackday on the 17th. Worst case I guess I'll relinquish my spot so someone else can have it, and go help the marshals.

I was going to get Cycletreads to do my next service, as it is a bit of a major. So while they have the bike in lots of bits getting the sump off I've decided to get that next service done early (since that involves taking the bike to bits anyway).


And you know the absolute worst? I forgot to put the beers I bought yesterday in the fridge. Now I have warm Steinlager Pure to console my misery. Warm beer. Really.

I think most of us can forgive the stripped sump plug (it happens to the best of us from time to time) but warm beer?

You need rooting.

[gatch]

2-6 weeks !

What the fuck are they going to be doing ! Unless they are absolutely run off their feet, should only take a few hours, unless they snap all your extractor bolts as well..

[p.dath]

2-6 weeks !

What the fuck are they going to be doing ! Unless they are absolutely run off their feet, should only take a few hours, unless they snap all your extractor bolts as well..

If the sump needs welding, then it will become cheaper to buy a new sump. If there are not in stock in NZ then it will have to come ex-Japan. Hence worst case, 6 weeks.

[The Stranger]

Striped my sump plug today.


Fricken noobs!
Leave the techy stuff like undoing bolts to the experts.

[hayd3n]

question have you tried a longer bolt?>>>>>>>>>>>>>???

[p.dath]

question have you tried a longer bolt?>>>>>>>>>>>>>???

Only to verify that the sump thread seemed ot be okay. The sump thread is not sufficiently "long" enough to take a bolt much longer than the original.

[LBD]

That's what I always do for sump bungs. A ratchet set to loosen so you can't go wrong. And a torque wrench for doing it up again.

Yeh...but ratchets work both ways...now which way?


Don't helicoil - go up to the next nearest size where the ID is sufficient to clear the OD of the existing thread.

This is by far the best and easiest option. (Assuming it is not cracked).... Get the next size up diameter plug and a tap to suit. And a block of dripping..? Push a good amount of the dripping into the hole, say egg cup full or so.. Sit old plug in hole and heat gently for a few moments with a cig lighter to melt the dripping, then cool with a cold wet cloth. Remove the plug and you should have a dam of dripping. Tap the hole out to new size, then use cig lighter to melt the dripping which will carry out the cuttings as it melts. (Does not work well on a hot day)


Now...bare with me....Is it a socket or an allen key plug and what size socket or allen key fits?

Someone mentioned Pom in the thread when discussing your other drama....warm beer. If you are a Pom then that explains everything....down under evrything turns the other way....and jap bikes are built in the northern hemisphere with thread directions to confuse down under lads...

[dipshit]

If the sump needs welding, then it will become cheaper to buy a new sump. If there are not in stock in NZ then it will have to come ex-Japan. Hence worst case, 6 weeks.


And don't let NZ dealers rip you off either. Compare their price with getting one from the US... http://www.mrcycles.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=128885&category=MOTORCYCLES&make=HONDA&year=2000&fveh=3049 ($119 USD)

[dipshit]

Yeh...but ratchets work both ways...now which way?

:scratch:

Set it to loosen so it is turning anticlockwise when standing up normally before you crawl under your sump. It will only work in the one direction you have set it to.

[The Lone Rider]

question have you tried a longer bolt?>>>>>>>>>>>>>???

Helicoil is not neccesarily the answer (in reply to "red" with the message simply stating -helicoil!-)


But don't let a little fact like fixing my sump without one, and it being like new, get in the way of your opinion.

[quickbuck]

Helicoil is not neccesarily the answer (in reply to "red" with the message simply stating -helicoil!-)


But don't let a little fact like fixing my sump without one, and it being like new, get in the way of your opinion.

Not the only answer at all.
There is a multitude of options... Including fitting an over sized stainless steel insert.

Yup, don't let the fact I work on engines with the lightest spec of Magnesium available (in 1965) persuade your opinions either ;)

[LBD]

:scratch:

Set it to loosen so it is turning anticlockwise when standing up normally before you crawl under your sump. It will only work in the one direction you have set it to.

Okay , so I went and bought a set of sockets and a ratchet from my local repco store...nice chrome kingcraft one. Held the rachet in my left hand with the square thingy facing me. I followed your advice and set little lever so the square thingy only turns anticlockwise, then with a lot of effort, I got my sump plug to turn...can you guess the rest?

I am giving you the benifit of doubt and assuming your post is an attempt at cynicism......

[dipshit]

Okay , so I went and bought a set of sockets and a ratchet from my local repco store...nice chrome kingcraft one. Held the rachet in my left hand with the square thingy facing me. I followed your advice and set little lever so the square thingy only turns anticlockwise, then with a lot of effort, I got my sump plug to turn...can you guess the rest?

Are you really that fucking stupid...???



Really...???

[kevfromcoro]

havent read all of this thread.. but it seams to be going on for a long time...
just pull the engine out if you have to.. and take it to an engineer.
get it fixed properlly... and pay the cash..
end of story......

[Leseid]

Seeing this is a fastener that will need removing often a heli-coil might be a bit of temporary fix. Personally I would drill out the stripped sump casting, tap a 'M' size up or two with the same tread pitch. Then all you need is a larger bolt and crush washers for the new tap size.

Then just tell your mates it was an intentional modification so you could drain your oil 200ms faster than before.

The trick is to check your socket wrench is loosen mode before you take it to the fastener.

[p.dath]

An update for those following the thread.

The sump case where the sump plug screws into has cracks. So using a helicoil, or drilling it out and re-tapping it are not an option.

So now investigating weather getting a new sump or getting it welded and helicoiled is cheaper.

It is starting to look cheaper to get a new sump but could take a long time to get into the country, while getting it welded is more expense but can be done much more quickly.

[quickbuck]

Shouldn't take too long to get one out of Japan.

And Look at THIS (http://page2.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/b105348733) Works out to about $450 plus GST and shipping.

[p.dath]

Shouldn't take too long to get one out of Japan.

And Look at THIS (http://page2.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/b105348733) Works out to about $450 plus GST and shipping.

That looks like an entire motor ... A site I was looking at a couple of days ago was selling the sump brand new for US$119 (then you have to add freight and insurance). Just waiting on pricing for NZ distributors.

[hayd3n]

Helicoil is not neccesarily the answer (in reply to "red" with the message simply stating -helicoil!-)


But don't let a little fact like fixing my sump without one, and it being like new, get in the way of your opinion.

wtf??????????????????
yes but your plan was a very time consumig job you would need to remove the sump to weld/tap hole
a helicoil wouldent take long you could use the exiting plug + new crush washer and you would find out if the sump is cracked yourself,
1/2 hr of your own time would save a couple of hundred, getting the fairings removed headers taken off ,and sump removed , just to get the sump sent away for testing,
sumps dont hold pressure so the crack in the sump is int just going to piss everywhere

[kevfromcoro]

Dont understand why your crankcase has cracked.....
You may of over stressed it .... screwing things into it,
If you can get it of.. go and get it welded. and fixed.... PROPERLLY.
Dont fuck about.. you are missing all the good riding weather.

[quickbuck]

That looks like an entire motor ....
It is the entire motor.... Cheap as chips.

[Miscreant]

havent read all of this thread.. but it seams to be going on for a long time...
just pull the engine out if you have to.. and take it to an engineer.
get it fixed properlly... and pay the cash..
end of story......

For gods sake man. Look at the balls up he made removing just one bolt.
Can you imagine the utter carnage if he removes the engine?
The possibilities are limitless.

[quickbuck]

For gods sake man. Look at the balls up he made removing just one bolt.
Can you imagine the utter carnage if he removes the engine?
The possibilities are limitless.
You have given out too much Reputation in the last 24 hours, try again later.
:lol:

[LBD]

Are you really that fucking stupid...???
Really...???

......I'm definately not as stupid as you are gulible....twice in one thread.....Do you really think any one is so dumb as to need a blow by blow instruction on undoing a bolt and how to use a ratchet?....FFS.....pdath made a simple mistake that any one could do....I for one would not be taking him by the hand and saying now this is how you undo a bolt....

Pdath... good luck getting it sorted hope you are on the road before summers over

[Miscreant]

......I'm definately not as stupid as you are gulible....twice in one thread.....Do you really think any one is so dumb as to need a blow by blow instruction on undoing a bolt and how to use a ratchet?....FFS.....pdath made a simple mistake that any one could do....I for one would not be taking him by the hand and saying now this is how you undo a bolt....

Pdath... good luck getting it sorted hope you are on the road before summers over
Whooosh.

So pdath made a simple mistake right. Anyone could do it. Sure they could.
Just as a surgeon could replace the wrong hip or amputate the wrong leg. Simple mistakes really.

Dipshit's advice wasn't about how to undo a bolt but a strategy a professional may use to mitigate risks of making a mistake in the first place, in a field the op is apparently deficient. It's about knowing what can go wrong and how to manage that, not about undoing a bolt.

Dipshit 1, LBD 0.

[The Stranger]

Dipshit 1, LBD 0.

Dipshit 1, LBD 0, p.dath -10

[LBD]

Whooosh.

Dipshit's advice wasn't about how to undo a bolt but a strategy a professional may use to mitigate risks of making a mistake in the first place, in a field the op is apparently deficient. It's about knowing what can go wrong and how to manage that, not about undoing a bolt.


Don't tell me let me guess....you are either a risk asessor...or insurance asessor.....or complience officer....or managment consultant...or OHS auditor?

[Owl]

You have given out too much Reputation in the last 24 hours, try again later.
:lol:

I did it for ya!:laugh:

[quickbuck]

I did it for ya!:laugh:
Cheers. :)

[p.dath]

At last, I finally got my bike back today with the sump plug socket repaired. Needed to be welded and a helicoil installed. My wallet is $120 lighter for the experience, but now I'm just keen to get back out on the bike!

[Latte]

At last, I finally got my bike back today with the sump plug socket repaired. Needed to be welded and a helicoil installed. My wallet is $120 lighter for the experience, but now I'm just keen to get back out on the bike!

Probably just enough money to make you think _very_ carefully next time, without pissing you off too much at the expense. Have fun - it's always good to get back on after time away from the bike.

[steve_t]

At last, I finally got my bike back today with the sump plug socket repaired. Needed to be welded and a helicoil installed. My wallet is $120 lighter for the experience, but now I'm just keen to get back out on the bike!

$120 is pretty cheap really :niceone:

[p.dath]

$120 is pretty cheap really :niceone:

Yeah I thought it was ok. The helicoil was about $70 or $80 when I looked into the price of it originally.

The bike had a pretty full tank when I took it in, but thought I had better check just in case. Opened it up, nope, can't see anything n the tank at all. Started tapping down the side of the tank with my finger, nope, can't find the petrol line in the tank.
So I'll be taking the bike directly to a petrol station in the morning.

I had a service done as well, and I guess they drained the tank and forgot to put petrol back in it. Doh!

Glad I checked my fuel tank!

[LBD]

Yeah I thought it was ok. The helicoil was about $70 or $80 when I looked into the price of it originally.

!

Yes the price does sound reasonable...and the weekend is here, hope you have some good weather and get some riding in....and there is still a couple of months of summer left.

[p.dath]

Yes the price does sound reasonable...and the weekend is here, hope you have some good weather and get some riding in....and there is still a couple of months of summer left.

For those following this thread I'm pleased to say I've just done my next oil change (they said to do it after 1,000km because of the machining). Check the ratchet lots of times to make sure it was definitely set correctly. Sump plug came out no issues. So glad to say I learnt my lession.

I have to say, it was much more satisfying to work on the bike this time. Only took me a fraction of the time it usually does. Might finally be developing basic servicing skills!

Might even offer to do my next one at a NASS training night for others interested in learning (and there is bound to be others more experienced who might be able to give me some further tips).

[hayd3n]

wahoo !!!!!!!!!!!!!

[The Stranger]

Might even offer to do my next one at a NASS training night for others interested in learning

how not to remove a sump plug.

[p.dath]

how not to remove a sump plug.

Haha. Yes, I'd like to be able to ride home afterwards.

[crazyhorse]

For those following this thread I'm pleased to say I've just done my next oil change (they said to do it after 1,000km because of the machining).
First I've heard of this. I've probably done over 2k since mine was repaired at the bike shop - and they never said I had to do another one so soon.......

[p.dath]

First I've heard of this. I've probably done over 2k since mine was repaired at the bike shop - and they never said I had to do another one so soon.......

I think they were being cautious, "just in case". The sump plug shouldn't be moving during normal riding, so there shouldn't me much opportuntity for metal filings to get into the oil.

[p.dath]

how not to remove a sump plug.

Are you instructing at the RRRS course on March 21st? it would be good to meet you ...

[quickbuck]

I think they were being cautious, "just in case". The sump plug shouldn't be moving during normal riding, so there shouldn't me much opportuntity for metal filings to get into the oil.

If your sump plug moves during ANY riding, let alone NORMAL, you will not be riding for much longer......
And you think shingle is slippery stuff......

[carver]

I stripped my old GSXR one....

It happened when i was putting the bolt back in..
it stripped so easy, i am sure it was a bit fucked before.
F1 put it right, helicoil is the way to go