GSX750F banging noise? [Archive]

sammcj

12th January 2010, 06:54

Hello and Happy New Year to all the wise KB'ers out there!

I've purchased myself a 98 Suzuki GSX750F Katana from 200BUSA here on KB.
Really nice machine and BUSA was very helpful.

Here lies the problem (I thought I'd pick everyone's brain at once to see if this has happened to someone before):

There is a noise that sounds a bit like something making a thumping / thudding noise against the tank between 2.5 - 5K RPM.
Obviously it's not something banging against the tank and it's something echoing up through the tank / faring.

The noise is:

-Regular
-Not there with the clutch in
-Worst under load, but travels evenly with the rev's
-Can't hear it after around 4-5K (Probably just due to engine noise)

BUSA and I thought it was the worn front sprocket, perhaps with one tooth that was extra worn / chipped BUT:

-The front sprocket IS worn and needs to be replaced but as T.W.R. wisely said not worn enough to be making a noise like that.
-I had a think about it and if it was the sprocket surely it would be faster in a high gear at the same RPM - but it's not.
-The engine / gear box runs mint, very smooth and rev's nicely.

The owner before BUSA must have put some horrid greasy rubbish on the chain which has covered anything near the chains path in grime which I've cleaned off, I've cleaned the chain (which is much newer than the sprockets are is in good order) with meths and will lube properly when it's back on.
I am replacing the sprockets tonight as I have already bought them and pulled the damn thing apart.
I've googled the hell out of the problem / noise and have come back with nothing.
I'm guessing the sprocket isn't going to fix it and I'm quite worried as I don't have the funds for anything big at the moment.

Any ideas O wise ones?

MSTRS

12th January 2010, 07:14

More info reqd. Can you feel it as a vibration? Does it in/de-crease with revs? Is it only when moving?
The clutch in could be a clue.

CookMySock

12th January 2010, 07:16

Engine mount loose?

Steve

sammcj

12th January 2010, 07:17

More info reqd. Can you feel it as a vibration? Does it in/de-crease with revs? Is it only when moving?
The clutch in could be a clue.

I could probably feel it every so slightly if I think about it, not really though?
It slowly gets faster with the revs, starting just a bit faster than once per second and moving up to 2-3.5x per second.
It's only when moving but haven't tried it on the stand with the clutch engaged (probably not a good idea?)

sammcj

12th January 2010, 07:18

Engine mount loose?
Steve

Very good point, might be a bugger to find, I'll look over tonight after the sprockets are back on (wish us luck!)

one fast tl1ooo

12th January 2010, 07:24

Maybe 200busa left a little guy under the tank with a little hammer.:lol:

CookMySock

12th January 2010, 07:25

If you don't find anything external, I'd be really tempted to whip its covers off and make sure you don't have a sticky valve stem. It's a shot in the dark, but one that would pay dividends if you were right.

Steve

T.W.R

12th January 2010, 07:30

Just reading what you've said in PMs and posted in the thread, personally I suspect it's elsewhere in the transmission unfortunately.

Especially when you say it disappears when the clutch is engaged (I presume you've done this while on the move?)

Chains & sprocket make noise when they're poked: tight spots, unlubed, broken or damaged teeth (easily spotted...apart from the obvious the damaged teeth scar the chain links, collapsed or disintergrated rollers, damaged chain: twisted etc

If the noise is being made by the external parts of the transmission (sprockets & chain) then it'd be constant regardless of the clutch being engaged whilst moving. IMHO I'd be looking at the main driveshaft bearing (that's why i said to check for any weeps around the seal) It isn't a major job to replace the bearing just awkward to remove the old one. seeing you've just got the bike from 200BUSA I'd be at him to get it fixed (he'd have suspected that it was the bearing I guarantee).

With the chain removed you can manually turn the drive sprocket/main shaft and you'll feel if it's notchy or not.

MSTRS

12th January 2010, 07:36

I could probably feel it every so slightly if I think about it, not really though?
It slowly gets faster with the revs, starting just a bit faster than once per second and moving up to 2-3.5x per second.
It's only when moving but haven't tried it on the stand with the clutch engaged (probably not a good idea?)

Only when moving narrows it down a bit. Now you have the problem of further narrowing...(it could be something in the front wheel or discs - but unlikely).
A tight spot on a chain can make a noise, but is more usually a thumping vibration through the frame. The tight spot is not always the chain, but a sprocket out of round. The front sprocklet is probably too small for that to be a problem unless your chain is adjusted too tight to start with.
If the back wheel is off the ground when on the main stand, give it a go.

sammcj

12th January 2010, 07:37

Just reading what you've said in PMs and posted in the thread, personally I suspect it's elsewhere in the transmission unfortunately.
IMHO I'd be looking at the main driveshaft bearing (that's why i said to check for any weeps around the seal) It isn't a major job to replace the bearing just awkward to remove the old one. seeing you've just got the bike from 200BUSA I'd be at him to get it fixed (he'd have suspected that it was the bearing I guarantee).

BUSA seemed like a decent sort, he said he was 90% sure it was the sprocket and if there were any problems at all to bring it back for him to have a look at so I don't think he'll have any qualms looking into this.

sammcj

12th January 2010, 07:40

Only when moving narrows it down a bit. Now you have the problem of further narrowing...(it could be something in the front wheel or discs - but unlikely).
A tight spot on a chain can make a noise, but is more usually a thumping vibration through the frame. The tight spot is not always the chain, but a sprocket out of round. The front sprocklet is probably too small for that to be a problem unless your chain is adjusted too tight to start with.
If the back wheel is off the ground when on the main stand, give it a go.

The rear sprocket is worn looking like it's teeth are almost point in towards the bike.
The noise actually is a thump or a thud, I guess I should update my post to say that. - pretty hard to explain in words!

MSTRS

12th January 2010, 07:43

The rear sprocket is worn looking like it's teeth are almost point in towards the bike.
The noise actually is a thump or a thud, I guess I should update my post to say that. - pretty hard to explain in words!

New sprockets! And chances are the chain will also need replacing.
Always replace all 3 bits at the same time...they wear together.

sammcj

12th January 2010, 07:46

New sprockets! And chances are the chain will also need replacing.
Always replace all 3 bits at the same time...they wear together.

Yep, One of the few rules I do know... but.. (I always have a but!)

It looks like the chain is in good condition, I think it's been replaced recently and that's whats caused the sprockets to die really fast, I've been though every link to make sure none are more stiff than the next and to make sure every roller is spinning freely without dents or wear, I had a mate look over it yesterday and he thought it'd be a waste to replace it since it's in good condition and is very expensive.

sammcj

12th January 2010, 07:53

Especially when you say it disappears when the clutch is engaged (I presume you've done this while on the move?)

I just re-read that post.
It disappears when the clutch is IN, i.e. when you're not in gear

MSTRS

12th January 2010, 07:58

I just re-read that post.
It disappears when the clutch is IN, i.e. when you're not in gear

You mean when the gearbox is not turning?
Can you put the bike on its main stand, start the engine, put the bike in first and let the clutch out. Now the wheel is spinning, what do you see/hear? Pull the clutch in and see/hear what happens.

T.W.R

12th January 2010, 07:58

I just re-read that post.
It disappears when the clutch is IN, i.e. when you're not in gear

Check the bearing :yes:

sammcj

12th January 2010, 08:04

haha this is getting messy, the sound:

IS there when accelerating normally.

If I'm riding down the Street and I can hear the noise, I put my hand in the clutch and the noise goes away even if I rev the bike.

Can you put the bike on its main stand, start the engine, put the bike in first and let the clutch out. Now the wheel is spinning, what do you see/hear? Pull the clutch in and see/hear what happens.
When I get the sprockets on tonight I'll put it on the stand and let you know.

vifferman

12th January 2010, 08:12

sammcj

12th January 2010, 08:17

Usually, if the noise disappears when you pull the clutch in while moving, then it's not the chain'n'sprockets (good test for that).
Also, you said it's only between 2.5k rpm and 5k - does the bike have a flapper valve in the airbox? If so, disable it and see (hear?) if the sound disappears.

I just googled flapper valve and was greeted with a lovely range toilets :laugh:
I'll rip the air box out tonight also, will it be pretty obvious what to look for? (I'm guessing something a bit like the flap on a carbie?)

vifferman

12th January 2010, 08:24

I'll rip the air box out tonight also, will it be pretty obvious what to look for? (I'm guessing something a bit like the flap on a carbie?)
If there's a flapper valve, you'll see a metal diaphragm thingo (technical term) somehwere on the airbox, with a rubber tube going into it from the intake manifold, and an arm disappearing into part of the airbox.
It's designed that at low revs it forces the airbox to breathe through a smaller orifice so there's less intake noise. When the throttle's wide open and/or at certain revs (usually around 5- 5.5krpm) above the range they test noise emissions, the flapper valve stays open.
If it has one, pulling the vacuum tube off (and plugging the end of the hose so your bike doesn't run lean!) will disable it and mean the flapper's open all the time.

Squiggles

12th January 2010, 08:27

Put it on the stand and try to identify where its actually coming from... Work from there

vifferman

12th January 2010, 08:28

Put it on the stand and try to identify where its actually coming from... Work from there
That's a good idea. Be aware though that with the bike in gear and no load on the rear wheel, there'll be a lot more flapping around of the chain than normal.

sammcj

12th January 2010, 08:34

Put it on the stand and try to identify where its actually coming from... Work from there

1st priority as soon as sprockets are on.
2nd is check engine mounts and airbox 'flapper valve'

sammcj

12th January 2010, 09:17

Spoke with sportzones mechanic, he thinks it could be the clutch plate / cover.
He seemed to think that if it was the gb baring or shaft I'd know about it.

avgas

12th January 2010, 09:43

take all the plastics off and go for a ride and see if it still exists. I had a similar problem and all it was 1 of the fairings 'tapping' the frame at certain revs. Solved with a small bit of rubber.

MSTRS

12th January 2010, 09:51

Spoke with sportzones mechanic, he thinks it could be the clutch plate / cover.

There's 2. One on the right, has the oil filler and level window in it ...which would heamorrage oil if it was 'loose'. And one on the left where the actuator mechanism is located (also doubles as the front sprocket cover)...just check/tighten the 5? allen head bolts holding it on. But I doubt that'd be the source.

sammcj

12th January 2010, 09:59

Already have the LHS one to do the sprocket, bolts were tight as when I took it off and spring etc all looks fine in there.

So I'd have to drain my oil to do the clutch? (take it thats what a wet clutch is!)

take all the plastics off and go for a ride and see if it still exists. I had a similar problem and all it was 1 of the fairings 'tapping' the frame at certain revs. Solved with a small bit of rubber

Will do.

Funny thing: I could be imagning it but I swear its worst when I lean to the left and quieter when I lean to the right - BUT I haven't riden her enough to say that for certain yet.
I now have a power bar so the sprocket change should go ahead tonight.

MSTRS

12th January 2010, 10:18

Already have the LHS one to do the sprocket, bolts were tight as when I took it off and spring etc all looks fine in there.

So I'd have to drain my oil to do the clutch? (take it thats what a wet clutch is!)

Will do.

Funny thing: I could be imagning it but I swear its worst when I lean to the left and quieter when I lean to the right - BUT I haven't riden her enough to say that for certain yet.
I now have a power bar so the sprocket change should go ahead tonight.

That is probably your head moving to that side of the bike when you turn..meaning that a turn to the left suggests that the source of the noise is on the left. It brings us back to chain, sprockets or final drive bearing

sammcj

12th January 2010, 13:39

Do you think it's worth me doing the oil and filter when I get home, or hold off incase I have to drain it for whatever reason?

MSTRS

12th January 2010, 13:58

Nah. Just wait.
unless the old oil is the cause :devil2:

sammcj

12th January 2010, 14:03

Nah. Just wait.
unless the old oil is the cause :devil2:

heh, Pretty unlikely I'd say unless someone dropped a ring in there when they last serviced it :P

quickbuck

12th January 2010, 14:59

Okay. I would say it is the fact you are running a new chain on old sprockets.

The fact the noise goes away when you pull the clutch in is due to the front sprocket all of a sudden being driven, and not doing the driving.
They never wear on that side of the teeth, so it will still be new.

Replace all three, and if the problem still exists at least you have eliminated the problem of premature wear of the chain.

sammcj

12th January 2010, 17:08

I just thought I better clear something up as this could swing the wrong way since I didn't give any background info in my first post - 200busa only said he thought it was the sprockets or chain, he is without question not a dodgy sort out to rip anyone off or the likes, he did say to me several times if I had any issues with the sprockets or fixing the issue to contact him and he'd help out / sort something out, I don't want anyone thinking his a bad guy or done a dodgy sale, He has been nothing but helpful since I first met him, this post was in no way a negitive post - I'm just trying to tackle this one myself or at least as far as I can!

Update:

I'm waiting on a mate to turn up to help me remove the front sprocket (back one is now on)
I've spun the front sprocket without the chain on it and it's as smooth as silk, no play, no rough bits etc...

I'll update again in an hour or three!

MSTRS

12th January 2010, 17:19

How many kms has that new chain done on the worn sprockets? More than a few hundred, and I'd be replacing it as well.
The problem is that the 3 parts (front, rear and chain) all wear together, and with any one part that is well worn and replaced, the new part is simply subjected to hugely accelerated wear by the other worn part/s. I've seen chains for instance, that should last 40,000+kms being rooted after 4,000. And that with a visually 'good' front sprocket.

sammcj

12th January 2010, 17:22

Not too sure, it looks very new.

Thing is, chain is very expensive - the sprockets only cost me $70~ I'd rather replace the sprockets and note that the sound has gone away or lessened; then I will replace all three when the first thing wears out.
I've checked every link in the chain to issues and they all seem good.

MSTRS

12th January 2010, 17:36

quickbuck

12th January 2010, 17:51

Fine for what you are doing. Either you will solve the noise/vibration issue, or not.
Assuming you do fix it, and if the chain has done more than just 'a few' kms, then replace it quick smart. Otherwise you will be doing the sprockets again too. Real soon. Instead of enjoying many '000s of kms.

Concur with this.... Thing is if you continue to wear the chain premaiurly, and the worst happens... you will have it at least take out your side cover, and may well take out your leg.... apparently those are worht more than a couple of hundred dollars.....

Katman

12th January 2010, 17:52

Your problem may be due to the fact that you bought a Teapot instead of a Katana.

98tls

12th January 2010, 18:16

Havent read all the posts so someone may have already suggested it,wondering if possibly a spring post or plate retainer in the clutch has come lose,not sure of the clearence between cover and plates in that model bike but thinking it could be rubbing on the cover when clutch is engaged.

sammcj

12th January 2010, 19:39

w00t took her for a VERY short spin up the road carefully... looks like all the noise is gone and it's a lot nicer to gear!
I cannot confirm this yet, but I'm 95% sure.
While I've got all the covers off I'm doing and oil and filter change.

CookMySock

12th January 2010, 21:14

So tell us what you changed, you gonk.

Steve

sammcj

12th January 2010, 21:17

So tell us what you changed, you gonk.

Steve

Both sprockets and cleaned chain thoroughly, front sprocket was actually a bit more f!@#ed than it appears in the photo!
I guess I was getting worried over nothing, I find it does pay to be prepared for the worst.

Never changed a sprocket before tonight either, what a newbie.

CookMySock

13th January 2010, 06:51

Uh yeah I thought it looked kinda chewed. Good shit bro. Sorted! I'm glad it was something simple.

Steve

shafty

13th January 2010, 07:23

Both sprockets and cleaned chain thoroughly, front sprocket was actually a bit more f!@#ed than it appears in the photo!
I guess I was getting worried over nothing, I find it does pay to be prepared for the worst.

Never changed a sprocket before tonight either, what a newbie.

Well done that Man! :sunny:

MSTRS

13th January 2010, 07:43

Good to hear nothing serious.
Now - check the mileage on that chain...

sammcj

13th January 2010, 18:30

Mint, still got the covers off while doing a few other things, she should be up and running again tomorrow!
She's looking good, very tidy under the tank etc...

In the haynes manual it says "With the bike on the center stand the chain should have 20-30mm movement top to bottom" (From the center of the lower track).
I've got it set to about 30-35mm - seems pretty damn tight to me! - MSTRS what do you run on your GSXR?

MSTRS

14th January 2010, 07:32

About 25mm. You need to rotate the wheel and measure chain movement at various points as it turns. This way, you find any tight spots and, if so, make the tightest point have the 25mm of play.

quickbuck

14th January 2010, 08:11

About 25mm. You need to rotate the wheel and measure chain movement at various points as it turns. This way, you find any tight spots and, if so, make the tightest point have the 25mm of play.

Also ensures your sprockets are concentric.... Believe me, I have seen some that are not in recient times.... Had us scratching our heads. It ias 1mm out, and hell it made a difference!

MSTRS

14th January 2010, 09:21

Also ensures your sprockets are concentric.... Believe me, I have seen some that are not in recient times.... Had us scratching our heads. It ias 1mm out, and hell it made a difference!

Tell me about that.
Case in point. A mate of mine was having trouble setting the chain on his RF900. Got the bike round to mine, put it on the paddock stand, and proceeded to try setting the slack. An hour of fiddling later, I gave up. Turns out he had got the shop to fit a new chain and sprockets a few months ago. Big mistake - he didn't check what they'd done. New chain and rear sprocket only. He's done only 6000kms and his chain and new sprocket are fucked. We marked the tight spots on the chain BUT they keep changing because a sprocket is out of round, coupled with accelerated wear on the chain. He left here with a chain that varied between 25mm and near-on 45mm play, plus an instruction for the bike shop. REPLACE THE LOT.

sammcj

14th January 2010, 18:54

Any tips for a silly bastard on starting a flooded engine?
Tried the trick of full throttle and winding over for 10-15sec - no go.

quickbuck

14th January 2010, 19:28

Any tips for a silly bastard on starting a flooded engine?
Tried the trick of full throttle and winding over for 10-15sec - no go.

Leave it in the sun for a while... Oh, wait, sun is going down...

Then next step is to do as you did. You will be right on the 750 re fouled plugs, as they will eventually burn off the wet plugs.
250's on the other hand, you are best to pull the plugs and get them cleaned.

Question is, how did you manage to flood it?
These have a vacuum tap that won't actually allow fuel to run unless you are winding the bike over.... OR, did you leave it on "prime", and play on the bike?

I guess if you were winding it over excessively with full choke might have done it....
Not like you can do on the Honda's either, and that is wind it over with the kill switch set to the OFF position.

sammcj

14th January 2010, 19:33

So I should be trying with the Choke on?
Should I leave her sitting with the choke on or off?

I did it with the prime setting because I'm a food and was playing around, had the tank off checking air filter etc...
Looked at a plug and it was wet.

Dang, was hoping to put her all back together tonight, don't really want to if I might have to take her apart again!

sammcj

14th January 2010, 19:35

I guess I could take each plug out and clean them, worth doing or not worth the time (bit of a bugger to get to)

quickbuck

14th January 2010, 19:57

I guess I could take each plug out and clean them, worth doing or not worth the time (bit of a bugger to get to)

Okay, while it is all apart, pull all the plugs and give them a clean to get all the wet fuel off. Worth doing.

Now, note this bit for next time you want to start your bike after having it apart:

Put the fuel tap to PRIME only if you have drained the fuel out of the Carbs. Then only PRIME it until the bowls are full. (Can check this with a screw driver and a turn of the drain screw).
Else, start engine by having Fuel set to ON (Or RES) if it is low.
Now for the procedure proper:
1) Sit on Bike
2) Kick Stand Up
3) Turn on Key
4) Apply Full Choke
5) Pull in Clutch
6) Check bike is in Neutral
7) Press Starter (Note: I didn't say apply throttle), until engine fires but no longer than 10 seconds.
8) Wait for revs to climb above 2500 before reducing Choke (Can let the clutch out in Neutral at this point too).
9) Ride off when engine is stable with no choke.

Note, all your gear should be fitted before starting your bike, but many take short cuts re this....

Hope this helps (and I thought of everything).

sammcj

14th January 2010, 23:50

She's running like a kitten!

-Took plugs out and cleaned them again
-Left her sitting for 2 hours
-Apply full choke
-Start with no throttle
-Reduced choke but held throttle to keep her idling around 1600 for 20 seconds
-She was idling nicely!

Thanks again for your input, I believe when I had the tank off I may have set it to prime when fiddling around.

sammcj

15th January 2010, 16:59

I can see why the owner before last had a 45 tooth sprocket on the rear, I think when I do the chain I'll definitely replace the new 47 with a 45...

Do you ever need to 'align' the front discs / brakes? (sound warped)

MSTRS

15th January 2010, 17:14

2 teeth up on the rear sprocket will alter your top speed down by about 10kph, but give you better acceleration. Did you pop a wheelie?
Discs do warp. Check by raising the front wheel off the ground, and give it a spin. The unscientific method is to look at the disc/s from the front, and note whether they appear to move side-to-side. If they do, you need to get them properly checked, using a springloaded micrometer attached to the fork leg/s.
Otherwise, to check when riding...gently pull in the front brake lever. If warped bad enough, you will feel the brake grab/let go/grab/let go. Also, you may feel the lever 'pulse' under your fingers. Heavy braking at higher speeds will cause the front end to shudder.
If the discs are this bad, they need to be replaced. Straightening discs is no recommended, as a rule. Prepare for a wallet raping...

sammcj

15th January 2010, 17:25

I think she possibly rev's a little too easily now but I probably just need to harden up and get used to it!

Yeah both the front and back wheel make contact with the brakes when you spin them by hand but they all feel pretty even, its like they need to release just a little more when they're off?

MSTRS

15th January 2010, 17:43

If the wheel/s spin freely, then no problem. Otherwise, go for a ride...couple of kms...pull over and stop using one or other brake...now - quick - feel the OTHER disc/s...hot? or not?...repeat ride/stop/use other brake/feel disc/s...hot or not? If the pads are binding, the affected disc will be hot, without using it to stop.

sammcj

16th January 2010, 10:21

Can you just get the discs machined slightly like you do in a car?

Ah I believe the term for the issue is 'brake dragging' did some reading and some times a brake flush is some times the fix.

MSTRS

16th January 2010, 11:39

Machining is not an option (will go below minimum thickness before the warp is removed)
If it's just drag, then remove the calipers, pop the pistons out, clean everything, fit new seals, reassemble, new fluid and bleed. Recommend this.
Or put new pads in...sometimes the bores in the calipers get a bit 'weathered' towards their outer limits for piston travel, causing them to stick. The new pads are so much thicker, that the pistons are back in a clean part of the bore.

sammcj

16th January 2010, 13:12

Thanks for the great advice (as usual!)

I'll pull the buggers apart, clean them up and do the fluid.

I'm really enjoying working on this bike, learning a lot! :)

sammcj

18th January 2010, 19:47

Just took her for a spin over the hills and back through sumner then town.
I took it easy but she went bloody well!

quickbuck

20th January 2010, 21:29

Good to hear it is all up and running....
Now all going well, you won't have to pull all the plastic off again for ages.....

sammcj

20th January 2010, 21:30

you won't have to pull all the plastic off again for ages.....

Think again, new front visor coming next week!

arghh.....

quickbuck

21st January 2010, 19:08

Think again, new front visor coming next week!

arghh.....

Oh, man... I feel for you.
I did heaps of miles on my 1997 600 Teapot, and hardly ever pulled it to pieces.

I did have to pull it completely apart after one of the Brass Monkey Missions, and Oh boy, what a mare!
Once I was going to take out the little fan that used to stay on after the key was turned off (Californian Model), but couldn't ever be bothered pulling it to bits again.

To be fair, i was using it to commute from Auckland to Bulls, so didn't really want to spend time with it in pieces (it was only 3 years old at the time).
Did well that bike to be fair. Everything I asked of it. Just a little under powered, and a little too heave for a 600... So got my current CBR to replace it.

No bad memories with that bike, so long as I rode it within the envolope.
Never had any reliability issues... once i replaced the stuffed battery....

sammcj

22nd January 2010, 11:47

That's really reassuring to hear, I'm glad I made a wise purchase, even if I am going to get called a teapot rider from time to time :cool:

quickbuck

22nd January 2010, 11:56

That's really reassuring to hear, I'm glad I made a wise purchase, even if I am going to get called a teapot rider from time to time :cool:

Could be way worse ;)

sammcj

22nd January 2010, 11:59

quickbuck

22nd January 2010, 12:45

Indeed.
I'm doing my first ever long trip next month.
Christchurch to Oturehua (http://www.otagocentralrailtrail.co.nz/accommodation_advertising/oturehua_tavern/index.html), Then 3 days later: Back to Christchurch :headbang:

Way Cool!
You are making me miss the Mainland now! (Was from Ashburton myself)

There are some really neat roads around there.......
Have a great trip....
Oh, best thing about GSX's... SACS!
No need to worry if your radiator fluid is going to freeze over night! Especially handy if you are at Iderburn Dam on Queens Birthday weekend.
Got to love Oil Cooled motors for that.

sammcj

22nd January 2010, 12:51

Oh I didn't realise they employed SACS tech, rad.

My old man has the tavern there so hopefully I'll park her up in the garage anyway :D

FruitLooPs

1st February 2010, 18:36

Yes your bikes based off the 1st generation long stroke gsxr 750 oil boiler (SACS) engines. Very few differences internally, and identical externally except cable clutch I believe possibly.

If you want reference for what bad noises are from these engines i've got a couple of video clips. One from my gsxr 750 when it bent a conrod (no vacuum petcock + leaking carbs = fail bigtime) and one of a 1100 with stuffed output bearing (fairly common failure for these 750/1100's not that much fails on these engines when cared for really).

http://www.youtube.com/user/TherealGotgixers#p/a/u/0/xP2cbTJrzqE bad output bearing

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FO5wh_fJS44 and a tiny wee man hiding in my engine tapping away with his hammer ;)

They use them in 3/4 midget sprintcar races, with only 2nd/3rd in them and rev the nuts off them so they must be pretty strong :D Enjoy the bike, it should be really good to you :)