View Full Version : CRF250R vs CRF450X
Mr. Rock
14th January 2010, 20:09
Got a bit of an issue I hope someone can help me out.
Currently I have a CRF250R (07) but it's a bit to service hungry for my wallet.. Was thinking of jumping on a 450X of about the same age (05) because if I researched properly they should be cheaper to run than a R (correct me if I'm wrong).
I have a bit of riding time under my belt on the 250R how much more power etc am I looking to get if I went to a 450x?
cheese
14th January 2010, 21:01
much heavier, you'd get much more tired hauling it through the track. I'd suggest learn how to service the bike you have.
Mr. Rock
14th January 2010, 21:49
I have taken a bit of the engine apart but the hondas seem to have annoying security bolts and I have not been able to find a service manual for the 250R :-(
Mr. Rock
14th January 2010, 21:51
I'm not overly concerned about it being heavier. More concerned about how manageable it will be..
barty5
14th January 2010, 21:59
no one can A 450 is a lot heaver and being a x willl be heaver again the power will be more mellow than the R. Take a bit to get use to and can ba hard work it the tight stuff but once you get use to it they are great i love my 450
Mr. Rock
14th January 2010, 22:00
Guess what I'm trying to ask is.. How much more power would the 450 have and how would it deliver it compared to the 250?
Rupe
14th January 2010, 22:26
Guess what I'm trying to ask is.. How much more power would the 450 have and how would it deliver it compared to the 250?
why don't you go to one of the maramarua rides they have 450x demos, had a sit on one and it felt it was made of lead standing still.
B0000M
14th January 2010, 22:29
the 450 has a whole lot more power overall than the 250, but 450R's feel more heavy and are more heavy than a 250R, and then X models are another 20kg heavier again... so you'd be going up by about 30kg, plus the added inertia weight, the whole thing would just feel HEAVY
mechanicly the engines are exactly the same, however the X models have a less aggressive cam, ignition maps, jetting, exaust, heavier flywheel, heavier casings, side stand, battery, starter.. etc etc. so maintenance wise they actually require the same care.
the reason honda stipulates different maintenance schedules is mostly because of how the 2 models are most likely to be ridden. the R models are made as a race bike, and therefore the maintenance schedules are spaced out as if the bike were ridden like a race bike. the X models being aimed at a trail market, which generally means a lot more relaxed riding style, everything takes less of a hammering and therfore doesnt need as much attention.
im not sure what you are referring to with 'security bolts' ?? ive had a few apart and am yet to find anything that joe average couldnt take apart
unless you're a gun rider, or weigh over 100kg, i wouldnt reccommend a 450 to anyone as a trail bike, and in a lot of cases as a mx bike either.
keep in mind also with a 450 theres a stronger pulse on the power, so chains, sprockets and tyres will last even less time = more maintenance
CRF119
15th January 2010, 09:19
If you can ride your 250 near the limit for a whole trail loop or race make the jump to the 450. Or if you are just a heavy person say 90kg upward just go to the 450.
I went from my 02 CR125 to my 08CRF450R no problem. (Im only a light weight to)
There are no safty bolts on the Hondas not sure what you are on about there.
Maybe head towards a KTM 2 stroke if you want esier maintainence. (probobly not cheaper)
The money you save on engine parts with the 450 you will spend on chain, sprokets, fuel and tyres. Every 50 hours i spend $300 on the best qulity chain and sprokets.
barty5
15th January 2010, 09:31
you running xring chain cause i get way more hrs per chain than that
IIIRII
15th January 2010, 11:27
Theres almost exactly 7kg difference between a 250 4t enduro (105 av) and a 450 4t enduro (112 av) regardless of what manufacturer
And about 12kg between a 250 4tmx and a 450 4t enduro (100/112)
So its about 12 kg heavier.
Mr. Rock
15th January 2010, 12:18
Right.. So maybe the jump to a 450 doesn't sound like the best idea.. If I'm only trail riding the 250 do you think I could service less? And the security bolts I found wer in the carb like a star with a bit in the middle instead of a Phillips screw (I personally didn't have anything to undo it with guessed it was Honda specific).
B0000M
15th January 2010, 12:20
kerb weight of a crf450x is 128kg
http://www.motorcycledaily.com/08september04_crf450x.htm
kerb weight of crf250r is 103kg
http://www.otorohonda.co.nz/new_bikes/motocross/crf250r/
Mr. Rock
15th January 2010, 12:52
Well when I say doesn't sound like the best idea I mean kinda doesn't sound like I'll save money.. Any ideas on how to make this riding more affordable? Maybe a 250x? Tho I am hessitant I'll get bored with less power than my r..
Pornstar
15th January 2010, 12:55
I just got an exc 250 2t, and can see the pluses already, no clutch cable to lube, no linkages to grease, can do a top end with one arm tied behind your back. Also light and managable power. never flames out. my last scoot was a CRF 450, loved it, but yea, the costs of a 450 were noticeable, tyre eaters.
B0000M
15th January 2010, 13:18
Well when I say doesn't sound like the best idea I mean kinda doesn't sound like I'll save money.. Any ideas on how to make this riding more affordable? Maybe a 250x? Tho I am hessitant I'll get bored with less power than my r..
what is it that you are destroying thats costing so much????
the only regular maintenance you need to do on a crf is oil changes, oil filter changes every 2nd time, keep your chain lubed, keep your suspension linkages greased, then theres a top end every 80-100 hours, and a bottom end probably every 200 hours.
(edit) forgot to mention cleaning the air filter every ride, - or more if its a real dusty day. and check valve clearances every 20-30 hours (or when it gets hard to start)
dont take whats in the manual as gospel, they are dreamers and nobody actually changes pistons and rings every 7.5 hours!
Ride it till the red
15th January 2010, 13:49
dont take whats in the manual as gospel, they are dreamers and nobody actually changes pistons and rings every 7.5 hours!
Aint that the truth! Oh the money they would make if people did!
At the end of the day it's not a cheap sport, but maintaining your bike regularly is certainly cheaper than fixing it when things go wrong due to lack of maintainence!
CRF119
15th January 2010, 14:39
Why are you pulling your carb apart? thats the last thing a novice needs to be touching. Do more harm then good. Maybe honda where thinking with those secerity screws.
Mr. Rock
15th January 2010, 23:37
What was killing me was planning for top ends and bottom ends cause I was told top @ 40 and bottom @ 100 so twice as much as you reccomended!! I like your service advice better haha!
And taking the carb apart to clean it check jets and there numbers, floats etc. Me and my mate (more my mate) did it cause he has rebuilt a handful etc then that's when Honda offered the re jet upgrade :-D good times.
Back to servicing.. How come everyone is recommending 40hrs for top end mainly bike shops who know my riding and ability.. Make money off me?
B0000M
16th January 2010, 06:19
well 40 hours if youre a real hard out racer. But i assume youre not from your posts. I know people with 300+ hours on their original bottom end!
Rupe
16th January 2010, 07:01
What was killing me was planning for top ends and bottom ends cause I was told top @ 40 and bottom @ 100 so twice as much as you reccomended!! I like your service advice better haha!
And taking the carb apart to clean it check jets and there numbers, floats etc. Me and my mate (more my mate) did it cause he has rebuilt a handful etc then that's when Honda offered the re jet upgrade :-D good times.
Back to servicing.. How come everyone is recommending 40hrs for top end mainly bike shops who know my riding and ability.. Make money off me?
For my kxf250 it's top end every 80hrs, bottom 200+hrs, oil every 5hrs, oil filter every 10hrs, air filter EVERY ride, valve check at top end rebuild unless it's hard to start. I don't touch the carb unless it needs cleaning (which it shouldn't if your on to it with your air filter). Pretty much everyone I know would be the same, so I guess you should too, unless you're James stuart.
Blagger
16th January 2010, 07:06
Those "security bolts" sound like T-Drives - they're common on chainsaw and roadsaw air filters.
Take a sample one down to an engineering supply shop and they'll fit you out with a driver. I just bought one for the same reason, Kincrome (sp?) I think.
They are in T-spanners or as sockets to fit your half-inch drive set.
Blagger
16th January 2010, 07:09
Those "security bolts" sound like T-Drives - take a sample down to an engineering shop or tool warehouse and they can fit you out with a T-spanner or socket to fit your half-inch driver set.
I just bought one, Kincrome I think.
Blagger
16th January 2010, 07:10
Damn spaz...
CRF119
16th January 2010, 08:49
The sercurity screws pull the carb apart in the middle. To check jets and float only the bottom and very top needs to be removed.
Mr. Rock
16th January 2010, 09:24
Those "security bolts" sound like T-Drives - they're common on chainsaw and roadsaw air filters.
Take a sample one down to an engineering supply shop and they'll fit you out with a driver. I just bought one for the same reason, Kincrome (sp?) I think.
They are in T-spanners or as sockets to fit your half-inch drive set.
sweet sounds good. will do that if i come across anymore :)
The sercurity screws pull the carb apart in the middle. To check jets and float only the bottom and very top needs to be removed.
the carb was pretty dirty when i got the bike so was wanting to clean the slide and everything inside just so my mind was at ease :)
well 40 hours if youre a real hard out racer. But i assume youre not from your posts. I know people with 300+ hours on their original bottom end!
this is sounding hopeful..
so by the sounds of these ideas if i keep my 250r not listen to the manual cause im not racing. service less and do it myself. i will cut my costs. still have my bike and not have to change what i am riding!
Pornstar
16th January 2010, 10:08
The sercurity screws pull the carb apart in the middle. To check jets and float only the bottom and very top needs to be removed.
I agree, pretty sure you will be opening a can of worms that will need a honda factory line robot to re asemble.
Mr. Rock
16th January 2010, 10:36
I agree, pretty sure you will be opening a can of worms that will need a honda factory line robot to re asemble.
bahahaha and i bet there not easy to come by ether!
carver
16th January 2010, 15:31
I have ridden both the 450X and 250R
The benifits of the X are electric start and a real tractor like power.
The X felt good on a tight trail once i had played with the suspension.
the 250 was a blast to ride, but i would hate to stall it up a clay hill, cause if it dont start the first time, it wont start for a while!
B0000M
16th January 2010, 22:30
the 250 was a blast to ride, but i would hate to stall it up a clay hill, cause if it dont start the first time, it wont start for a while!
im yet to see this problem with any crf- i thought it was a yamaha issue only
carver
17th January 2010, 21:07
Ah, the 250 i rode had 13 carb mods and had been raced
IIIRII
17th January 2010, 22:06
im yet to see this problem with any crf- i thought it was a yamaha issue only
LOL
Ask Jt
flyingcr250
17th January 2010, 22:24
LOL
Ask Jt
ha ha ask him about clutches too :devil2:
jt119
17th January 2010, 22:49
mine was a f...ing pig to start when i got it $300 in carb mods sorted that. all it gets is new oil and filter every second ride and a clean air filter each ride ive just clocked 120 hours and vales are fine and it gets abit of a hard time its been under water afew times drain carb kick it over with the plug out put it back in and it starts fine its been boiled more times than i can count and still goes fine its just fryed the clutch but at 120 hours its done ok with some of the places its been
Mr. Rock
18th January 2010, 10:23
mine was a f...ing pig to start when i got it $300 in carb mods sorted that. all it gets is new oil and filter every second ride and a clean air filter each ride ive just clocked 120 hours and vales are fine and it gets abit of a hard time its been under water afew times drain carb kick it over with the plug out put it back in and it starts fine its been boiled more times than i can count and still goes fine its just fryed the clutch but at 120 hours its done ok with some of the places its been
is this 120hrs on ur 250r without a new piston!?
jt119
18th January 2010, 12:44
is this 120hrs on ur 250r without a new piston!?its had one piston at 50 hours
Mr. Rock
19th January 2010, 07:32
its had one piston at 50 hours
WOW! well sounds like im going to not do the top end as much! any of you heading to raglan rocks this weekend or the trail ride on the sunday?
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