dogsnbikes
28th January 2010, 16:29
Its been a long 11 weeks and 4 days but finally my baby is home:yes:
what started out as a basic shim service(WHICH WERE SWEET)and the leak down test was better than 2 years ago so I have gained compression :lol: turned out too be a very long time apart and wallet draining exercise as the list shows
LABOUR, 7 hr
SCOTTOILER, MK7 Universal 1 ea
SCOTTOILER, Dual Inj Kit 1 ea
KEY CODE,TuneBoy , ECM unlock for remap 1 ea
MIRROR, CRG, folding BarEnd,"LS"Hindsight,3"BLK/GRY 2 ea
ADAPTER, CRG,Billet, BLK, for bar end ID 12mm-19mm 2 ea
WASHER,sump plug,M14 1 ea 2.25 2.25
OIL, Motul, 300v full synthetic, 15w/50 3.6 ea
OIL FILTER,injected,spin-on 1 ea
SPARK PLUG,NGK CR9EK 3 ea
HUGGER, 1050/955/595/509 1 ea
PIPERCROSS,02-06 Triples,air filter 1 ea
MATERIALS,anti-seize,cleaning fluids,spray lubricants etc. 1 ea
then the gut feeling I had about the stator came true so rather than just rewind the old one I decide to change the charging system from 955 to a 1050
so the list gets bigger
ROTOR, alternator (upgrade) 1 ea
STATOR, 104mm (Daytona upgrade) 1 ea
COVER, Alternator, (upgrade) 1 ea
AIR FREIGHT ex UK 81 pounds 1
AIR FREIGHT INSURANCE 1
Import Duties 1 ea
SEAL,Breather,Daytona 955i 1 ea
then I get a this
Hi Barry, time is running very tight due to a couple of complications with the old alternator rotor. Is proving to be a real beast to release from the crankshaft. I started work on the conversion yesterday afternoon and have spent a good part of today at it. Firstly, the rotor bolt was amazingly over tightened, 105Nm is the specification.....with a rotor strap, bike in top gear & rear brake applied it finally released with a huge strong bar. (it wasn't even loctited!). Normally a strap & 600mm strong bar is more than adequate to release the bolt.
Then came the rotor itself. Normally, being on only a taper shaft with a key way & woodruff key, the factory puller easily copes with releasing the rotor from the crankshaft tapered end.
However, the rotor puller threads on the centre of the rotor have been made under-size. This has meant that the normal puller is unable to get a good grip on the threads and pull the rotor. To make matters worse, the grip that the puller does get should be more than enough to withdraw the rotor.....but not in this case, they may have used a large amount loctite on the taper on assembly.
Next, I heated the rotor boss to 170deg cel and sweated penetrating oil into the taper & key way, then again used the factory puller.
I then tried a three arm puller.......but, there is not enough clearance behind the rotor to properly locate the puller feet.
Again I heated the rotor boss to 220deg cel and again applied penetrating oil and again fitted the puller, this time the puller came loose. I measured the threads of the rotor & puller and noted the sizing of the thread diameter on the rotor. They should be 38mm, they are 37.40mm. The thread of the puller is 38mm.
Using the thermal laser I was able to monitor the heat used.
I'm not wanting to heat the rotor boss any hotter as it will transfer too much heat to the crankshaft and cases. So far I've stayed in a safe temperature zone.
I'm totally at a loss as to why the rotor & rotor bolt are so tight? The rotor especially is a concern as it's proving extremely difficult to extract. I have to be so very careful as any rough treatment or incorrect loading could damage the crankshaft. The hugger arrived too, so have been fitting that & the Scottoiler while I work out what may next approach to the rotor will be.
Will let you know how I get on,In the meantime, don't worry too much, it's just a locked taper, it will eventually give in to me :)
WHO LOCTITES A ROTOR:angry:As you can see in pics the guilty rotor:mad:
Well she is all home now and the final few touches were added today,BIG THANKS TO OWL FOR THE PILLON PEGS AND BRAKETS
Gotta keep Mrs Dogs happy;)
what started out as a basic shim service(WHICH WERE SWEET)and the leak down test was better than 2 years ago so I have gained compression :lol: turned out too be a very long time apart and wallet draining exercise as the list shows
LABOUR, 7 hr
SCOTTOILER, MK7 Universal 1 ea
SCOTTOILER, Dual Inj Kit 1 ea
KEY CODE,TuneBoy , ECM unlock for remap 1 ea
MIRROR, CRG, folding BarEnd,"LS"Hindsight,3"BLK/GRY 2 ea
ADAPTER, CRG,Billet, BLK, for bar end ID 12mm-19mm 2 ea
WASHER,sump plug,M14 1 ea 2.25 2.25
OIL, Motul, 300v full synthetic, 15w/50 3.6 ea
OIL FILTER,injected,spin-on 1 ea
SPARK PLUG,NGK CR9EK 3 ea
HUGGER, 1050/955/595/509 1 ea
PIPERCROSS,02-06 Triples,air filter 1 ea
MATERIALS,anti-seize,cleaning fluids,spray lubricants etc. 1 ea
then the gut feeling I had about the stator came true so rather than just rewind the old one I decide to change the charging system from 955 to a 1050
so the list gets bigger
ROTOR, alternator (upgrade) 1 ea
STATOR, 104mm (Daytona upgrade) 1 ea
COVER, Alternator, (upgrade) 1 ea
AIR FREIGHT ex UK 81 pounds 1
AIR FREIGHT INSURANCE 1
Import Duties 1 ea
SEAL,Breather,Daytona 955i 1 ea
then I get a this
Hi Barry, time is running very tight due to a couple of complications with the old alternator rotor. Is proving to be a real beast to release from the crankshaft. I started work on the conversion yesterday afternoon and have spent a good part of today at it. Firstly, the rotor bolt was amazingly over tightened, 105Nm is the specification.....with a rotor strap, bike in top gear & rear brake applied it finally released with a huge strong bar. (it wasn't even loctited!). Normally a strap & 600mm strong bar is more than adequate to release the bolt.
Then came the rotor itself. Normally, being on only a taper shaft with a key way & woodruff key, the factory puller easily copes with releasing the rotor from the crankshaft tapered end.
However, the rotor puller threads on the centre of the rotor have been made under-size. This has meant that the normal puller is unable to get a good grip on the threads and pull the rotor. To make matters worse, the grip that the puller does get should be more than enough to withdraw the rotor.....but not in this case, they may have used a large amount loctite on the taper on assembly.
Next, I heated the rotor boss to 170deg cel and sweated penetrating oil into the taper & key way, then again used the factory puller.
I then tried a three arm puller.......but, there is not enough clearance behind the rotor to properly locate the puller feet.
Again I heated the rotor boss to 220deg cel and again applied penetrating oil and again fitted the puller, this time the puller came loose. I measured the threads of the rotor & puller and noted the sizing of the thread diameter on the rotor. They should be 38mm, they are 37.40mm. The thread of the puller is 38mm.
Using the thermal laser I was able to monitor the heat used.
I'm not wanting to heat the rotor boss any hotter as it will transfer too much heat to the crankshaft and cases. So far I've stayed in a safe temperature zone.
I'm totally at a loss as to why the rotor & rotor bolt are so tight? The rotor especially is a concern as it's proving extremely difficult to extract. I have to be so very careful as any rough treatment or incorrect loading could damage the crankshaft. The hugger arrived too, so have been fitting that & the Scottoiler while I work out what may next approach to the rotor will be.
Will let you know how I get on,In the meantime, don't worry too much, it's just a locked taper, it will eventually give in to me :)
WHO LOCTITES A ROTOR:angry:As you can see in pics the guilty rotor:mad:
Well she is all home now and the final few touches were added today,BIG THANKS TO OWL FOR THE PILLON PEGS AND BRAKETS
Gotta keep Mrs Dogs happy;)