EXC Magic fork settings

[Pornstar]

Please can someone tell me them, the front end almost has a mind of its own on corners, washy.
current settings are comp 16 out reb 14 out. i weigh 85kg. have just put bar clamps to the foward position to try to get more over the front, but am yet to try it out. any help would be appreciated.

[noobi]

Go back to what the manual recommends, then go from there.
I don't pretend to know what I'm talking about when it comes to suspension.
But i think most bike are sprung from the factory for around the 80-85kg mark.
Something i do sometimes is go for a loop and come back and see if i have used all the fork travel, you can tell by how much of the fork tube is still dirty.
If you haven't used it all you can go softer on the compression, usually only 2 or 3 clicks at a time, but make sure the forks settings are the same on each side, and if the ground is really bumpy you need more rebound, to keep the wheel on the ground, so I think that's out on the rebound clicker.
If the front wheel is washing, it could be many things, tyre being a big one. You should think about getting someone to watch what the front wheel is doing

[Pornstar]

Cheers for the input, tyres are or were new and perfect for the terrain, will try goin back to stock and go from there. once my rib and wrist heal that is.

[K6K]

It think stock the 300's springs are rated at 75 - 85kg including gear. I weigh 85kg but with gear I am easily over 90 so I went 1 up on the springs which is rated at 85 - 95.
I am still using the stock "sport" settings which have been pretty good but I really should do a bit of experimentation to fine tune it.
One cause of the front end issues could be rebound and it is fairly easy to try a different setting so you may as well give it a go!
Front end washing (pushing, understeer) can be the forks returning to home position too fast. When you are leaning over in a corner and the forks compress over a bump the return travel will push the tyre to the outside of the corner. - to reduce this add more rebound (harder '+') to slow down the forks return and reduce that force.
Going to far with this will produce the opposite condition:
Front end tucking (dropping into the corner, can be packing down over multiple bumps also) can be too much rebound so the forks are not returning to home fast enough - to reduce this back off the rebound (softer '-')

[secondfield]

Hey Pornstar, as a brief aside, how are you finding the exc compared to your 450? The reason I ask is that I am looking at one here in aussie to ride for a while ... wouldnt mind your opinion on the comparison..

[Pornstar]

First of all to K6K, thanx a heap, sounds like gold advice and will be impleminting it as soon as. and as for second fields question, Its complicated, I totally loved my CRF the shear warp speed thrust of it, but have noticed the little exc will still keep up with an rmz 450LO in a short burst sort of race, the bloody rear brake can fade to wood if pushed(could need new oil). handleing for the most is sweet, pds shock feels fine, just have to dial the front a bit. I have way more confidence in the motor not flaming out doing log crossings etc. yes i would recomend one, they are a tough machine, I call mine my fork lift, due to its industrial appearance(2006 model). now I totally love my EXC2t.

[Sunday Casual]

Hey there,


What the others have said regarding compression, rebound and tyre choice is correct (to the best of my knowledge haha). I think you will benefit from softening the compression and adding more rebound dampening - This is what I would do if I found my front end washing.


That point aside, it could be something to do with where your forks are sitting in the tripple clamps. If your forks are too high up in the clamps the bike will be prone to diving and tucking of the front end. If your forks are too low in the clamps, there could be issues of the front end washing in corners and you're really fighting to get it to where you want to go.


I feel that if you combine the info the others have given you and the info I just gave it may solve the problem. So all up, softening the compression of a few clicks (maybe 4) and add more rebound dampening (maybe 5) and slide those forks up in the clamps, there are lines at the top of your fork tubes that will indicate the level, just make sure they're level or you may experience more difficulties.


If that fails, you should take them to "Suspension Tech" - Norm Cobb has done wonders with my suspension and he has a genuine interest and great knowledge around it. Just Goggle 'Suspension Tech' and you should be on your way..


Hope this helps.

[Pornstar]

WOW! un believeable, I ask for some genuine help and I get total gold, and not a single KTM basher, how refreashing. hopefully goin a bit harder on the rebound and a little softer on the comp will help, as i said i have also put the bar clamps foward too, forks are on the 2nd marker ring. Now this gives me a starting point and direction. thanks a heap guys.

[javahead]

... take them to "Suspension Tech" - Norm Cobb has done wonders ...

Totally agree. Norm transformed my 08530EXC, so much better balanced front-rear, less tiring to ride and much more in control. I sent him my 09's shock and forks before even riding it. He knows his stuff and is very reasonable for what you get. My EXC was set up for 75 kg rider weight ex-factory, and I'm 95ish in full kit, so needed harder springs as well.
I find after a few hours riding the front pumps up and starts to climb out of ruts on corners. Bleeding them correctly helps. KTM PowerParts bleeders are good quality if you don't already have any.

[Sunday Casual]

Totally agree. Norm transformed my 08530EXC, so much better balanced front-rear, less tiring to ride and much more in control. I sent him my 09's shock and forks before even riding it. He knows his stuff and is very reasonable for what you get. My EXC was set up for 75 kg rider weight ex-factory, and I'm 95ish in full kit, so needed harder springs as well.
I find after a few hours riding the front pumps up and starts to climb out of ruts on corners. Bleeding them correctly helps. KTM PowerParts bleeders are good quality if you don't already have any.


I was much the same as you, I sent my forks and shock into Norm within the bikes first 5 hours, told him to do exactly what he had done to my 2008.


I am about 100 kg all geared up, therefore we had to go up about 3 spring rates from standard. Because of this, all the shocks internals were all messed up and it was handling like shit so it was off to Norm to see what he could do. He knew exactly what the problem was and I had it back within 4 working days - he did an awesome job and I highly recommend him!

[Reckless]

I must put a vote in for Danger ( from KB) PM him or call him Proride Suspension. here http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/member.php/2794-Danger He owns a Ktm and knows them inside out.
He did wonders for my Cr250 and the Ktm200 which was sprung way wrong for my 100kg.
First thing I did was correct springs front and rear and get him to modify the front for my style of riding.
He gives you spec and records sheets and his pricing is good!

[Pornstar]

Cool ta, if the new settings still aren't doin it i shall give him a go.

[browny]

all great advice and youre probly sorted but i had similar problems and all i did was raise forks by about half an inch in triple clamps. gives you a smaller turning radius, worked for me. cheers

[kezzafish]

got my forks back from danger last week and have had a good couple hoons on them to check em out... he knows the WP forks really well and has sorted mine. The forks on these bikes seem to squat quite a bit under your own weight so give you less travel and can seem a bit harsh. You want to firstly get the right springs for your weight and secondly get danger to do his little revalve trick on them and they'll be mint. bike sits up properly and your comp/rebound adjustments actually do what you expect them to do

[Pornstar]

Cheers Kez