Blasted Triumph

[cc rider]

1936 Triumph L2/1 (250)

Am (finally) ready to teardown the trump again & get the frame, front end & maybe wheels blasted & coated.
Looking at black powder coating frame & front end & black paint the wheels.
I'm happy with the condition of the frame considering it's original state. I had some welding done to replace a missing section of the frame's cross member under the tank. The frame that came with the bike is rather butchered. Sourced another 250 frame, complete with what I think may be a 500 front end.
I'm looking at using Baking Soda Blasting. Have had stuff sand & bead blasted before, but not tried this. It may be a bit gentler on the old bones.
Not sure if the wheels are worth the trouble & expense. They're pretty rusted & may well have more rust then metal keeping them circular. I don't know how to tell if they'll be too pitted after the blasting, rendering them shyte. would prefer not to have to do too much filling. I know the rust inhibitor can fill some flaws. Is it a try it & see situation?
My other alternatives are to buy 'new' old rims or have some fabricated. I'd prefer to find some original British 19" rims. I'll be re-spoking whatever I end up with.

Questions??
Has anyone every had components Baking Soda blasted?

Is there anything I should do to frame etc before & after blasting?

I'll be doing the teardown tonight, so will flick some pics up then.

Any advice guys will be appreciated as I'm doing this project with no manual, a photocopy of an incomplete parts catologue, plus a few pics off the internet. Oh & bugger all knowledge, but heaps of enthusiasm :D

If nothing, it will be unique :crazy:

cheers
CC

spose a pic of the shrimp will help

[YellowDog]

I know a guy at an ex-customer of mine who completed his restoration a couple of years ago. Leaks oil likee hell but his project was certainly a success. Rides it to work on dry days.

He's down near Howick. I'll ask him if he will be happy to let you borrow his manuals.

Re: baking soda for blasting, it is indeed a softer process however is not as thorough as sand. You'll be surprised about the ancient quality of the rims. Give them a spray of pledge and wipe clean to see just how pitted they are.

I'll PM you about the manual.

http://www.vintagebike.co.uk/Bike%20Directories/Triumph%20Bikes/images/Triumph-L2-1-35.jpg

[Dodgyiti]

The frame should get etch primed the same day or day after blasting, you can just buy a spray can of it but rust will set in within hours. The etch primer will hold it until you are ready to coat it.
Never seen results from soda blasting- let us know how that goes. I like vapour blasting for ali casings and parts, gentle and gets right in. I had my engine done, and cleaned up the gearbox myself... no contest, the gear box when hot blead out residue and the engine looks great still, only wish I had got both done for a few extra $$

[avgas]

I love threads like this - Please update us. Photos etc.
Old is always good. I even like old honda's

[cc rider]

Right, am in the middle of deflowering the rear wheel. Got the old tyre off on my own. Bloody hell :sweatdrop
Axle looks ok. What do ya reckon about the rims, guys?
Baking Soda Blasting lined up for frame, front end, tank, tool box & rims (though I reckon they might need garnet).
Don't need to get parts powdercoated straight away, as Soda leaves a film over the surface.
But will try to get p/coated as soon as I can afford it.
Have a few pics of the proceedings thus far. Tyre removal technique leaves a bit to be desired, I know

[cc rider]

Thanks Yellowdog, shyte is that what my bike'll look like :laugh: Not seen a proper pic of one.
Ta for PMs, will clean up rims a bit tomorrow & talk to blaster dude.



Never seen results from soda blasting- let us know how that goes. I like vapour blasting for ali casings and parts, gentle and gets right in. I had my engine doneMe either Dodgy, but have been recomended this place, as he does hotrods etc. I'll see if I ask nicely, that I can take pics of process.
Is vapour blasting similar to water blasting?
The ex had the shovel cases garnet tumbled, came up a treat. Makes cleaning very easy.


I love threads like this - Please update us. Photos etc.
Old is always good. I even like old honda'sShall do. My trump is 65 years older then my hondas & a lil less for me.

CC

[YellowDog]

Great idea removing tyres bare footed.

Like having 4 hands :)

The rims look fine apart from a couple of heavy rust places.

They'll need grinding down as smooth as possible.

If they don't hold up then that will make that decsion for you.

Good luck.

[cc rider]

Haha! It's so damn hot here (35), it was either no boots or no pants. I am nothing if not a lateral thinker.
I've got 3 rear rims & 1 front. Not planning on getting them chromed. Just powder coated. Will get best of, coated & maybe when I can, a pr chromed. Would kinda like to give it a flat tracker feel. Or will that just look dicky?

Thanks mate

Have more pics in my albums

[Dodgyiti]

Vapour blasting uses high pressure water yes like waterblasting so it is as gentle as can be without introducing media like sand or silica.
The rims look a bit worse for wear. Powdercoating may not be the answer. If you 2-pot paint them you can use a hard filler to smooth out the rust pitting to get a smoother finish as powdercoating will sink into the pitting and will actually highlight it.
Try and get the spokes out first before you get too carried away, there will need to be good solid metal around the mounting holes and you will not know that until they come out. I saw a nice 500 rigid Trumpy that had black rims with the bodywork colour as the rim centre- something like that will help distract the eye from imperfections if you so choose.
If you haven't already, put the rims on an axle in the vice and check they are true/ish before fully stripping them, any buckles should be removed at this early stage as any twisting will crack powdercoating when truing them once spoked.

[cc rider]

Thanks Dodgy. Was starting to thinking fill n' paint too. So here's the rear (best of 3) rim & hub after a clean & stripe. I'll sand them down tomorrow night.
The hub has a couple buckles & not exactly the interference fit it once was. I hope to have it repressed tonight.
Wheel is true. Did that when I bought it. Had to use extensions on the wire cutters to remove the spokes & holes look ok.
Engine & gearbox out later tonight.
Thanks for the encouragement Yellowdog

[redangel]

wow CC, you have your work cut out.
Back in 71 I found a 38 in an old barn up Rotorua, bought it for 30.00 go it going, you could hear me coming from 5 miles a way lol
Stipped it down and rode it for some time, until my 1st T150 came along, sold it to a local Trumpy lover, he rebuilt it and gave it to a museum

I was about to powder 1 of my T150's this week, but was advised not to, as if for any reason the coating cracks, water can get in under the coating and slowly start lifting and rusting away, a good 2 pot will last the distance on a frame, but then others also swear by PC.
The rims are a hard one, if it were mine, I may be inclined to have them bead blastered, then fill out all imperfections and repaint with a 2 pot isocynic coating, cant spell for shite.
Awesome to see pics of your progress, do keep them coming.
Good luck with you rebuild

[cc rider]

Hmmm.... does seem like a bit of a project, aye. But all good fun.
The hard part for me is not always knowing if the parts people try to sell me are either original or suitably interchangable. I know I'll never be rebuilding to original. Happy to do my own thing. But I have ended up with some parts that sure ain't L2/1 bits. May have to have a sale after it's finished. Including a few 500 front ends & a BSA rear guard I think. lol
I'll go with PC at this stage for the frame & front end. Have a good place I've used before for the harley. The coatings you can get these days have a bit more flex to them & are less prone to cracking. Plus it'll have a rust inhibitor on & the PC is UV rated.
Am getting the rims garnet blasted, again have someone who has done previous stuff.
More pics tomorrow night, redangel. Thanks for your interest.

cheers
CC

[YellowDog]

There's some excellent advice and solutions there. The rims are not great. I just wonder what these processes will cost and whether it wouldn't be a lot cheaper looking for better condition spares.

[Zuki lover]

It sure looks like a mission. good on you girl, not sure I would have the patience to take on such a project. You're an amazing woman :niceone:

[Dodgyiti]

There's some excellent advice and solutions there. The rims are not great. I just wonder what these processes will cost and whether it wouldn't be a lot cheaper looking for better condition spares.

:laugh: You been to a swap meet and seen suitable rims in better condition than these ones?

[cc rider]

Thanks guys. Yeah, all 3 rear wheels were from swappies. As was the bike itself. There's a few swaps coming up soon. So may have a squizz around for (betta) rims. I'm on a very tight budget though, so if I can't get wheels sorted soon, I can go on with the rest of the rebuild & come back to them.
If it would be of any interest to anyone, I think I'll blog about the rest of the bike, since it doesn't really pertain to the blasting subject. It may get boring other wise.
There's a sand blaster behind my bike shop, I'll show him the rim & see what he thinks.

cheers
CC

[YellowDog]

:laugh: You been to a swap meet and seen suitable rims in better condition than these ones?

Fair comment :)

I'm more used to taking years to complete such a project and keeping the need for a better set of rims (and other parts) in the back of my mind until they eventually show up, which stimulates me into doing a bit more work.

[cc rider]

Hub all reshaped. Running true. Pics of frame & front end later tonight. Hopefully stripped, if it doesn't rain.
May have to get fabricated rims one day. Like you said YellowDog, in back of mind. About to go see how the front wheel looks.
cheers
CC

[Motu]

I had a 350 version many years ago....and I never got it together.The factory was bombed in WWII,and the tooling for the singles destroyed....but if you own one you probably know that.Lots of ''other'' Triumph parts fit,so some mix and match can be done.Keep us posted with all progress....no matter how small,because they will be important to you,even if not to others.

[cc rider]

Cheers Motu, do you have any pics or info on it? I figure some of the very early (1937/8) Tiger series parts might be interchangable. Haha! Just realized, I probably have some :rolleyes:
I do appreciate the support. Yes, getting the last engine bolt out of the frame did put a rather big grin on the face. It's good having folk to help out with answers & feedback, even if it is over an ocean.
Engine & gear box have more bolts in them then the ex's harley. lol
Ya can't really see in these pics, but I've had new engine & gearbox mounts fabricated. They still need to be tidy'd up & painted. The gearbox is a 350 (turns over). The one I got with the bike was a piece of shyte, long story.
So tonights pics are some of the frame & tank (a few dents, but nothing serious.). Dismantling the front end & wheel are Tues jobs.
There's a bearing joint next to my bike shop, so will see if they can help with axle/hub bearings. Won't buy yet, just see what they have.

[Pedrostt500]

I have found POR15 a great product, get rid of any loose paint and rust, then paint the POR15 on, it seals the metal from oxygen so stops rust dead in the painted areas, though it needs a top coat of a UV proof paint, as POR15 has no UV protectin, would be ideal for the insides of your rims, use cheap brushes as when it sets it goes rock hard, also wear latex gloves as its a bastard to get off your skin.

[Dodgyiti]

+1 on that whole post, good stuff, tough as nails but don't get it on your skin, he says after the first time using it on a car floorpan underneath splashing it around willy-nilly:o

[jellywrestler]

Bead Blasting is fine, I'm BB my Vincent stands this morning and its taking me about twenty minutes a stand even after scraping the paint off where possible before, I mention the time as its certainally not digging into it at all.
I'd stay celar of sand of course although with the right operator sand is ok just you can't be guaranteed the right operator!
Soda or Vapour blasting comes into its own with soft alloy so its overboard for a steel frame whereas beads will be enough to ensure the rust is gone but not too harsh.
A good bead blaster will have the facility to etch prime it pretty well straight after too, if they can't offer this eservice they're not onto it
good luck, I took my Vincent off the build bench yesterday, after 6 years restoring it and have a couple of hours fitting the fuel lines and stands and then a bit of riding to do.

[jellywrestler]

I have found POR15 a great product, get rid of any loose paint and rust, then paint the POR15 on, it seals the metal from oxygen so stops rust dead in the painted areas.
On the contrary I was dissapointed with the POR15. I bead blasted my bits, cleaned with their product and stuck it into the hot water cupboard till painting time, painted as per their instructions to the letter. I made an error when appyling the top coats of two-pack, on the por tiecoat (the correct product for between por and two pack) and had to strip it all off.
Thought it would be a hard job but no, i peeled 6 sq inches of it off in one go with a knife! and the metal had signs of rust. The only thing i can put it down o ista maybe my spray system had water in it, or a inferior product.
Bead blasting a proper clean and a good etch primer is what I'd recommend.
Thenm again ask ten different people abot paint and you'll get ten different answers...

[cc rider]

I have found POR15 a great product.... would be ideal for the insides of your rimsGood one Pedro, ta. I'll see if they have the product over here & read up about it.


Bead Blasting is fine, I'm BB my Vincent stands this morning...
I'd stay celar of sand of course although with the right operator sand is ok just you can't be guaranteed the right operator!
Soda or Vapour blasting comes into its own with soft alloy so its overboard for a steel frame whereas beads will be enough to ensure the rust is gone but not too harsh.
A good bead blaster will have the facility to etch prime it pretty well straight after too, if they can't offer this eservice they're not onto it
good luck, I took my Vincent off the build bench yesterday, after 6 years restoring it and have a couple of hours fitting the fuel lines and stands and then a bit of riding to do.Sand blasting was out before I even start. I'm kinda keen on trying the Soda. Have been given a good quote for frame, front girder, tank, tool box etc. The rims, should I be able to use them, will probably be garnet blasted.
Had a customer in the bike shop today who turns out to be a local blaster. He's coming round to see the bike next wk. He can etch prime as well.
Ordered some bearings for the rear hub. Just some heavy duty roller bearings, they'll do for now. I didn't have to change the axle size etc, so if I come across something more traditional, it won't require any mods.

Heaps of great info jelly, thanks mate. Hope you got out on your Vincent. Had the trump since 2005 (very slack I know), never did anything with it, except have some brackets made. Been scavenging parts at swapmeets etc.

Thanks for the link YellowDog. That particular rim only had a 3 stud hub, I have 8, but am contacting the seller. Looks like a lolly store, aye. :yes:

More pics on Tuesday... ready for blasting.

cheers
CC

[reofix]

Did you know ... 100% of the reinforcing steel in NZ is manufactured from scrap!! All contributions gratefully recieved... :)

[cc rider]

...well, German steel is good quality <_<

Oh & how's the boxer going?


Luckily my vintage gem is not currently in EnZed ;)

[cc rider]

parts off to baster next week... I hope :)

[cc rider]

Bit of an update.

I've been slack with the "shrimp's" restoration. I'm moving over soon & have been busy sorting & packing.

Frame, front end assembly & tool box off to blasters. Getting baking powder blasted. As it's being done as a joby, I don't know if it'll be back before I move to NZ.

The tank needs a couple dents popped. What are the chances of finding someone who can beat, blast & paint all in the one place?

Not getting rims blasted at this stage as I would rather get the opinions of some of you guys, if you don't mind having a look. I don't want to waste my time/money if getting repos would be smarter.

I'll have to box up the rest of the bike this wknd as I move on the 12th april.
I'm hoping to ship it as parts & not as a bike import like the hondies. Shipping belongings & bikes in a few mths, once settled. (I hope)
I have one last chance to find parts the day before I leave here. There is a bikes only swappy down the road from my place.

It'll be cool to show you guys the bike in person, if anyone is interested that is. Not much to it, but I think it'll scrub quite nice.

cheers
CC

[cave weta]

back before I move to NZ.

The tank needs a couple dents popped. What are the chances of finding someone who can beat, blast & paint all in the one place?





Bring your tank with you if you have room - I can blast, beat and paint here

[cc rider]

Thank you for the offer Stu, but I'll have wait to bring it with rest of the bikes. I don't know what paint design I want yet. I'll prob be towards the end & I have a hell of along way to go. lol

[Pedrostt500]

The down side of sand blasting, is that it hardens the steel, on thin panels like car doors boots and bonnets it can streatch the metal, often does.

[cc rider]

Cheers Pedro. Yep, that's why I'm going with Baking Soda. Tank is in a pretty good state except for a couple small dents. I's the only part that couldn't get blasted with the rest. I need to decide what I want to do about the tank selector holes too.

[cc rider]

Update

I've been over here in NZ for a fews mths now, so needless to say unable to do anything on the trump. I have made a few good contacts.
I won't be restoring it any further until after I move perm & dependent on space.

On the plus side, I did a bit of sand blasting the other day. On a Bown saddle seat that weta is working on. Was good to have a go.
Interesting wee bike.