Back brake issue.

[Pratz]

My back break sometimes doesn't work all of a sudden..
it will work then slacks off big time when I need it. Is that normal??
I noticed when I let it sit for a while the brakes are back to normal
what can I do to fix it...
any suggestion?

[slofox]

If you have a back BREAK, then you are in serious trouble and need medical help ASAP...:whistle:

If however, you are referring to the back BRAKE, then it sounds as though you are having major fade problems...

How long has it been happening? Is this a recent thing or has it been creeping up over time?

Check the obvious, like for instance...

Is the fluid OK - reservoir full etc? Are the pads worn? Is the disc OK? Are the brake lines all good? Any fluid leaks? Does the brake pedal feel squishy?

If all above looks fine, then you might have a problem with the internals of the system - at which point, I would be getting professional help myself. Not good to have brakes fail at a critical moment...:crazy:

[CookMySock]

Give you back break a break and try using your front break more. ;)

Steve

[Pratz]

If you have a back BREAK, then you are in serious trouble and need medical help ASAP...:whistle:

If however, you are referring to the back BRAKE, then it sounds as though you are having major fade problems...

How long has it been happening? Is this a recent thing or has it been creeping up over time?

Check the obvious, like for instance...

Is the fluid OK - reservoir full etc? Are the pads worn? Is the disc OK? Are the brake lines all good? Any fluid leaks? Does the brake pedal feel squishy?

If all above looks fine, then you might have a problem with the internals of the system - at which point, I would be getting professional help myself. Not good to have brakes fail at a critical moment...:crazy:

hahha..ya I meant back brake.. *cringe*
I got the bike manual. Its a recent thing, started today whilst riding and twice. :D the break pedal feels squishy nd loose then goes back to normal after I let it rest.

bugger... I'm screwed when it comes to the mechanics of the bike.
any1 know a decent bike mechanic in auckland?

[Pratz]

Give you back break a break and try using your front break more. ;)

Steve

ya I did that, its the next logical thing to do when I'm left with the front brakes only.l
Thanks for the advice.

[paulmac]

Sounds like it needs bleeding. Ring your local zuki dealer and ask for an estimate to do this. Should'nt cost too much. ie: under a hundy !

[Mom]

You need to speel (spell - this is correct) words right to get sensible answers on here.

Break = smash something, to break it, to make it broken.

Brake = the mechanism that some vehicles use to slow down and stop.

In answer to your question no this is not normal. All of a sudden is a concern. Letting it sit and then braking comes back means you need to take it to a workshop and get someone to look at it. In fact if it has failed at all and you dont know what to do, and dont have anyone to actually help you the sooner you do this the better.

[FJRider]

If its been a while since work was done on the back brake (pads/seals etc) it may well be time to do it.

If the pads are getting thin ... the rotor may be nearing max travel out and sticking ...or leaking thru the seals ...

get it checked out ... checks are (usually free) good ...

[Pratz]

You need to speel (spell - this is correct) words right to get sensible answers on here.

Break = smash something, to break it, to make it broken.

Brake = the mechanism that some vehicles use to slow down and stop.

In answer to your question no this is not normal. All of a sudden is a concern. Letting it sit and then braking comes back means you need to take it to a workshop and get someone to look at it. In fact if it has failed at all and you dont know what to do, and dont have anyone to actually help you the sooner you do this the better.

Sure thing...thanks for the advice

[CookMySock]

I bet you its just low on brake fluid. If it is, just top it up and it will self bleed over the next few days.

Steve

[JMemonic]

Ok some good advice and some crap.

The brake system is supposed to be sealed but we will dispel that myth immediately its not, next brake fluid is hydroscopic it is possible for it to absorb enough water to form stream pockets as the water boils in the lines, not nice I can tell you. The fluid should be changed out approximately every two years, you will seldom ever find this done though.

Changing the fluids is an easy job that can be done at home with minimal tools, I am sure someone local could help you out with this, also if you can learn to do you oil change and filter at home another easy task. Anyhow change the fluid, be sure you use the correct fluid there is a range available then test the brakes if that has not solved the issue then its time to get it to a workshop.

Oh and you never need to top up brake fluid unless you have a leak, if you do you will need to drain it when the pads are replaced, if you have a leak you need to get it serviced.

[Hitcher]

any suggestion?

Yes. Learn the difference between breaks and brakes.

[Pratz]

Ok some good advice and some crap.

The brake system is supposed to be sealed but we will dispel that myth immediately its not, next brake fluid is hydroscopic it is possible for it to absorb enough water to form stream pockets as the water boils in the lines, not nice I can tell you. The fluid should be changed out approximately every two years, you will seldom ever find this done though.

Changing the fluids is an easy job that can be done at home with minimal tools, I am sure someone local could help you out with this, also if you can learn to do you oil change and filter at home another easy task. Anyhow change the fluid, be sure you use the correct fluid there is a range available then test the brakes if that has not solved the issue then its time to get it to a workshop.

Oh and you never need to top up brake fluid unless you have a leak, if you do you will need to drain it when the pads are replaced, if you have a leak you need to get it serviced.

thank you , thank you, Thank you for the advice.
I'll get it checked by someone local I think =)

cheers for that.

[JMemonic]

thank you , thank you, Thank you for the advice.
I'll get it checked by someone local I think =)

cheers for that.

No worries, if there are any maintenance evenings local(ish) I really could not emphasis the value of learning how to do oil changes, chain lube and tension, and what to look over the bike for will save you over a few years hundreds of dollars, and possibly nasty surprises when its at the mechanics.

If there are no maintenance nights check around you local KB'ers to see if anyone would be willing to mentor you in the basics. Hell pay a few beers and I am sure you will find someone.

[CookMySock]

Oh and you never need to top up brake fluid unless you have a leak, if you do you will need to drain it when the pads are replaced, if you have a leak you need to get it serviced.So what happens when the pads and the discs wear?

Steve

[JMemonic]

So what happens when the pads and the discs wear?

Steve

If the rotor is that badly worn on a bike that its more than about 5ml of fluid in the time you are doing your flush every two years there is more to worry about than a little fluid, you would want to get a little metallurgy done one the materials used to make the disc.

And if you are keeping that fluid at home chances are it wont be sealed in the container thus it would be absorbing water happily for you.

[quickbuck]

Sounds like it needs bleeding. Ring your local zuki dealer and ask for an estimate to do this. Should'nt cost too much. ie: under a hundy !

HOLY COW!
I'm going to start a Brake Bleeding Business in Auckland!
Will do both ends with fluid for half that!

Of course a Full Brake Service will cost a bit more... With pads and all....

[paulmac]

Don't know or seen the bike so sweeping generalisation !! If I said $20 and they go to a shop and it costs 120 cause the pads are fucked then I look like a twat !! interweb thingy and all !! If they were in the naki then I'd tell em to come see me !!

[imdying]

Shame tags are limited to 25 characters... we can't put 'People who correct obvious spelling mistakes after the OP has acknowledged it are stupid faggots with too much time on their hands, doubly so for idiots like Mon and Hitcher who didn't even add any useful advice' :rolleyes:

If it works fine, but the pedal goes all the way down randomly, and there are no obvious fluid loss (i.e. no visible leaks, and the fluid level doesn't go down), then it is possible that you have a master cylinder that is bypassing internally.

The first thing you should do is rebleed it with fresh fluid, and see what happens.

Should that not correct the problem, then you need to isolate the problem by using a brake hose clamp on the hose when it happens next. If clamping the line up near the master doesn't make the pedal firm again, then your master cylinder needs a rebuild, if it does, then either you have not bled it correctly, of there is a surely a leak.

As master cylinder rebuild kit is fairly easy to fit if you have some fine pointed circlip pliers to remove the piston retaining circlip with, but if you get that far down the track come back for some more detail on how to do the job.

[imdying]

So what happens when the pads and the discs wear?Braking systems are generally designed so that the volume of the reservoir is sufficient to allow for a fresh set of pads to wear fully. He is correct, you should never have to top up a brake fluid reservoir on an in service vehicle.

[CookMySock]

Braking systems are generally designed so that the volume of the reservoir is sufficient to allow for a fresh set of pads to wear fully. He is correct, you should never have to top up a brake fluid reservoir on an in service vehicle.I see. Point taken and conceded. That might be a useful first-glance method of checking pad wear, unless some helpful person has topped it off.

I encourage people to work on rear brakes, as they are perfectly straight forward, and it's a little hard to get in trouble with them. I do worry in this instance though, as the OP seems to rely somewhat on them, rather than the primary front brake.

Steve

[imdying]

Yeah for sure, if only you work on your bike, and you've run at least one set of pads down to have an idea of the pad wear to fluid level relationship, then it could be used as a useful wee indicator. Probably more so on a car where the pads are harder to see, pretty easy to get a visual on a bike pad :)

You are correct, they are very simple to work on, you can't go far wrong if you have access to the right tools and a little common sense :yes:

[sharky]

PM me and I'll check it out for you if you like. Not sure where you are but I'm in Torbay.

[Pratz]

Yeah for sure, if only you work on your bike, and you've run at least one set of pads down to have an idea of the pad wear to fluid level relationship, then it could be used as a useful wee indicator. Probably more so on a car where the pads are harder to see, pretty easy to get a visual on a bike pad :)

You are correct, they are very simple to work on, you can't go far wrong if you have access to the right tools and a little common sense :yes:

"little common sense" funny, I wish I had a clue.

PM me and I'll check it out for you if you like. Not sure where you are but I'm in Torbay.

thanks for volunteering to help man, a mate just offered to have a look at it. See what he says..hopefully its not a huge issue ay. cross fingers xx