Maintenance fluids

[Old Steve]

My bike will be delivered day after tomorrow, can't wait.

However, I would like to know what maintenance fluids KiwiBikers recommend. What do you use for your:

Engine oil: My manual recommends API SF or SG SAE 10W-40, however, I would prefer to use a semi-synthetic genuine 4T motorcycle oil as the spec for a car engine oil don't address the smaller sump capacity of a motorbike engine, the higher specific power output of a motorbike engine and the higher thermal loads.

Chain oil: Presume something tacky, light weight, and applied frequently.

Brake fluid: My manual calls for Dot 3 or 4. I would prefer to use DOT 4, but what experiences have long term riders had?

Cleaning fluids: What polishes, chrome cleaners, wheel cleaners do you recommend.

Now, sorry if this subject has been done to death elsewhere. But although I am logged in, when I try to search the site advises me that this function is unavailable to me as I' an NOT logged in.

[Mully]

Is your bike brand new? If so, check with the dealer about what oils you are allowed to run to aovid voiding the warranty.

If not - umm, what bike is it?

I like the chain "wax" stuff - it seems (to me) to stick better.

AFAIK, Dot 3 and Dot 4 are much of a muchness. I'm sure someone here will correct me if I'm wrong.

[Old Steve]

I've chosen a Hyosung GV 250, the cruiser. It's four years old and has 9,000 km on the dial. I'm a sixty-two year old on my 6L, so I chose something which will be like an armchair to ride and is large enough for other motorists to see coming - hopefully.

The manual recommends API SAF or SG SAE 10W-40 engine oil, DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid, Tellus 22 fork oil (which is a zinc based anti-wear hydraulic oil). They make no mention of a chain lube.

I like the chain "wax" stuff - it seems (to me) to stick better. What's the brand name? And do you heat it to put it on or does it go on from a stick?

[CookMySock]

I've chosen a Hyosung GV 250, the cruiser. It's four years old and has 9,000 km on the dial. I'm a sixty-two year old on my 6L, so I chose something which will be like an armchair to ride and is large enough for other motorists to see coming - hopefully.GOOD ON YA old chap! :clap:


The manual recommends API SAF or SG SAE 10W-40 engine oil, DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid, Tellus 22 fork oil (which is a zinc based anti-wear hydraulic oil). They make no mention of a chain lube.Basically, you just have to deal with oil changes, and they should be done quite regularly - 5,000km I think. Because the oil is tossed out so regularly you don't really super-dooper oil in it. Being quite a modern bike, I don't think you will have the oppotunity to touch brake fluids and fork oils. You should use a proper motorcycle engine oil though.

If you really want to look after your chain and sprockets, get one of these automatic oiler gadgets. They drip oil on your chain and keep it perrrrfectly moist.
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Parts-for-sale/Chains-sprockets/auction-273427542.htm


Steve

[The Pastor]

the higher specific power output of a motorbike engine

.


I've chosen a Hyosung GV 250, the cruiser.

ok, you may be an old bugger, but you used the word high power and hyosung. You've lost your mind!

[The Pastor]

But for serrious reply.

Oil - a cheap motorbike oil will do ok, I get mine from the bike store for around $35 for 4L. Change oil and filter every 5-7000ks.

Chain oil - this is 100% up to you, needs to be applied every 600ks, i use an aresol can because its easy. (watch for fling off onto tyre)

fork oil - any cheap fork oil will do - replace every 10 000ks or so (its an easy job)

brake fluid - check out this site http://stason.org/TULARC/vehicles/motorcycle-ducati/5-Should-I-use-DOT-3-4-or-5-brake-fluid-when-replacing.html i use dot 5.1 as its real easy to get and its cheap. just dont stick in dot 5

[Slyer]

For brake fluid you can't really go wrong apart. Dot 3, 4 and 5.1 will all work. Do NOT use Dot 5 as it will destroy your brakes. Brand doesn't matter much.
For oil use Semi or Fully synthetic Motorcycle oil aroundabout 10W-40 as specified. Car oil will ruin your clutch, definitely don't use car oil.

For the chain lube and cleaners etc just use whatever the bike shop stocks. I've had good experiences with S100 brand care products.

Enjoy it mate!

[The Pastor]

i think mineral oil is better, esp for a hyosung

[CookMySock]

i think mineral oil is better, esp for a hyosungIt doesn't make any difference, except the gearbox behaves slightly different. It's a personal preference thing, so once he has had the bike for an oil change or two, I'd suggest he tried semi-synthetic and see if he liked it. The gearbox just feels different.

Steve

[The Pastor]

The price difference for no improvement/ benefit is what i was getting at

[CookMySock]

The price difference for no improvement/ benefit is what i was getting atI agree, Rene, unless you like how the gearbox behaves when you use it. It's a personal preference thing.

Steve

[Slyer]

I'm pretty sure synthetic provides better lubrication...

[Old Steve]

Actually, let me put this mineral/semi-synthetic oil discussion to rest. I worked for 25 years in one of the major oil companies, the last 9 of those were in their international lubricants technical centre.

The performane, ie. the ability of the engine oil to clean the engine, carry dirt in suspension, resist oxidation, prevent wear and prevent foaming, depends on the additives in the engine oil - this is why you should use only the highest spec oil.

The major difference between mineral and semi-synthetic oil (and fully synthetic) is a function called VI (viscosity index). VI is a measure of how the oil thins out when hot and thickens when cold, a higher VI number means the oil changes viscosity less as temperature changes. A straight mineral oil has a VI about 95 to 100, the VI can be improved to about 120 by adding additives called a VI improver to the oil but these tend to be shear instable (break down in service) so the viscosity of the oil drops over it's service life. A semi-synthetic engine oil may have a natural VI of about 130 or 140, or even higher depending on the type and quantity of synthetic added, and will be more shear stable throughout it's service.

An oil with a higher VI will stay thinner when cold, thus giving quicker circulation at start up and reduced engine wear (most engine wear occurs at start up when it takes a fraction of a second for the oil to circulate and reach the areas where it's supposed to prevent wear). This high VI oil will also give better gear box feel when cold as the oil film between the gears will not be as thick - though there will be enough of an oil film to provide lubrication and prevent wear.

An oil with a higher VI will also thin out less at higher temperatures, maintaining a better oil film between moving parts and preventing wear at high temperature and in high shear areas. The gear box will feel better at high temperatures because of this thicker oil film at the elevated temperatures - albeit a thinner oil film than at start up, but a thicker oil film than a mineral based engine oil will give.

There is also the effect of the type of synthetic component used. A poly alpha olefin (PAO), a synthetic oil commonly used to produce semi-synthetic engine oils, is a polar molecule having an electric charge at one end. This attracts the PAO molecule to the metal surface keeping a film of lubricant on surfaces in preparation of when the engine will start turning. This is the case with Castrol's Magnetec - just a simple PAO used in the engine oil but a brilliant marketing idea by Castrol.

Here endeth Engine Lubrication 101

[Slyer]

That was interesting thanks.

Owned RM.