Viffer has run out of electricity

[crynsie]

Went to start the viffer yesterday and nothing, nada. No dash lights, horn or headlights. (yes, the run switch was on)

Afetr much faffing around checking the ancillary fuses (10a ignitiion) and the main fuse (30a magnetic switch) by the battery all of which were ok. There was no sign of scorching on the RR leads or the RR unit (what a PITA to get to). The battery looks ok, with no bulging and no sign of crud on the terminals. The battery is a sealed unit so no chance of checking fluid levels.

I rode the bike the day before and there was no sign of any problems. It started ok with no sign of a struggling battery and the lights were strong and not dimming with revs.

I have ordered a new battery (which is 4 days away).

Any one have any ideas where the electricity could be disapearing?

TIA

[Hopeful Bastard]

I had a similar problem with my battery.. It was caused by a dodgy connection to the battery. So i just tightened the bolts up and away she goes no worries now..

[hmmmnz]

what model vfr??

[RDjase]

Check your earth lead to frame and engine

[notme]

Use the 4 days wait for a new batt to go buy a cheap multimeter, and start checking things out. That way, you might find a non battery problem and be able to return the new batt unopened and save some $$$$.

[crynsie]

Thanks all.

The connection to the battery was tight on both terminals. I did tighten them up to see if it made a difference, sadly no....

Not sure where the earth is, and I can't seem to find it in the owners or workshop manual.

It is a gen 4 (94 - 97) mine is a 95

Also not sure how to use a multimeter....is there a guide somewhere?


Si

[YellowDog]

Check your earth lead to frame and engine

+1 there. But you would notice the performance being all over the place.

The last something like this happened to me was when I parked my bike up for 2 days with the ignition in the 'Park lighting' position.

As it was daylight when I parked I didn't notice the lights were on :buggerd:

[notme]

Buy this:
http://www.jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp?ID=QM1500&keywords=multimeter&form=KEYWORD

Read this:
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=126868&d=1240107443

And if you need help just post here, there are a lot of people who are willing and able to help.

With the multimeter I have linked to, you can't really do anything wrong apart from if you plug the probes into the current measuring sockets on the meter. If you leave them in the voltage sockets you can poke anything on your bike and you will not damage yourself or the bike. Well, you might stick a probe into your eye i suppose.....
I will help you with the usage of the meter if you go get one and post back here. Very useful tool to have, and in your particular case $12 to potentially find a dodgy connection is cheaper than a new battery I'm sure.....

[RDjase]

+1 there. But you would notice the performance being all over the place.

The last something like this happened to me was when I parked my bike up for 2 days with the ignition in the 'Park lighting' position.

As it was daylight when I parked I didn't notice the lights were on :buggerd:

I have done the park light on trick too, One click past the lock position. Lucky my LC has got a Mag CDI and goes with a flat battery.

The earth lead is the black one off the battery - terminal. follow it from the battery to were ever it goes to, there may be another one that connects and goes to the engine as well. I had one that was coroded and broke off and being kick start only it wasnt under big loads so didnt notice any faults till the lights (and everthing) went out

Buy a cheap multimeter and have a play with it , great tool as electricity is awefully hard too see

[crynsie]

Thanks Allun,

I will look at getting one tomorrow and work from there...

I will put on safety goggles (OSH approved of course) to avoid the probe in the eye problem :)


Si

[YellowDog]

I still have the multimeter I bought in 1978 (they're a bit smaller these days). Fantastic for testing anything electrical before replacing the battery or dumping it for new.

[crynsie]

Sitrep...

It wasn't the battery :(

Bought a multimeter and checked that there was voltage going through the ignition fuse, so all ok there....

Anyone have any ideas what the check next????

I am really in unknown territory now...

[scumdog]

Check your earth lead to frame and engine

Wot e sed.

Shrink tube was holding wire in place but copper interior had broken from terminal.

[notme]

Think carefully about what you are testing - for instance with what scumdog says above, if you test for volts with a multimeter from battery negative post to the ignition fuse, you are not proving the whole circuit, only the positive side of it. To really test what the ignition sees, you need to test at the ignition, to really test what the headlight sees, you have to test at the headlight, etc.

So if you start from across the battery, then go further up the chain with the negative of the meter on the bike frame close to where you are testing with the positive you will find things like broken earths real easy :-)

[crynsie]

Well, finally fixed it :)

After going through the fuses again, decided to check the ignition plug into the dash.

This involved taking ALL of the panels off. What a f**king PITA!!!!!

Finally got to the dash and the ignition plug was a little bit out. I pushed it back in again and she was away. 3 hours later trying to get all the panels back on and in place, we have liftoff.

I found the earh lead behind one of the fairings, so it was a good time to check that as well, there was a little bit of white buildup, nothing major.

A BIG THANKS to all those who replied


Si