Second-hand bikes with 30,000km on the clock?

[KiwiNinja]

Hi, I'm going to be getting my full in a couple of months and will be upgrading to 600cc bike. Open to all models really in the mid-size class e.g. GSXR, R6, CBR600rr, Kawa ZX6R or Triumph Daytona 675.

My budget is about $8-9k and so might be looking at 2005/2006 bikes.

What do I need to be aware of with bikes with 30,000 - 40,000km on the clock? I don't want to buy a bike then realise I need to spend plenty of cash getting parts replaced and serviced.

cheers

[PirateJafa]

Bikes in that age/price range should not be needng ANY parts replaced yet, barring consumables (brake pads, tyres etc).

Look for nil crash damage, and look for any juicy extras - IE exhausts, power commanders, steering dampeners etc (all unnecessary, but they look blingy as hell!).

Edit: For example, I got my '05 Ninja 636 for 8.3k absolutely immaculate and stock, with just 9,000km on the odo.

[firefighter]

Your're going to be looking at sprockets, chain, tyres, and most importantly the service history. That shit adds up and it expensive/especially if you're me and live by the "if you buy cheap you buy twice" rule......(that means I spend the money not a tight bastard)

My latest purchase was sight-unseen (idiot, I know better) and the fuckhead pom I brought it off in chch said it was literally good to go, chain good, last service not many kms ago. Chain was fucked so that to me instantly means new sprockets too, service was only 3000 kms ago but over a year ago so needed one. Sparkplugs fucked.

Get a receipt history. Without it it's their word, and is usually full of shit. Make it a rule not to buy off a pom, second bad experience so it must be a genetic thing to be dishonest and cheap fucks who do'nt look after vehicles. In fact I do'nt know how they can give scotts shit about being cheap but whatever....

Buy off a pedantic prick like me who keeps all that shit as a personal record, so I know when it's been done so I can keep on top of the bikes servicing. Anything less and it's probably just a toy, and if you buy a toy (not a passion) it's probably left forgotten about and neglected or cheaply maintained. People who keep a good record of their maintenance are more likely to regularly clean their bikes too. If there is no receipt for something it did'nt happen. Period.

Also definitely look for money spent on it in the way of zorsts/suspension etc. It's expensive as hell to do, but does'nt make a fluff of difference to the sale price.

[Hitcher]

30,000km is not quite a year's riding, so in itself is no big deal. As long as the bike has been properly serviced at the requisite intervals, I would have no worries about its condition.

My bike has done about 40,000km from new in 15 months. Mrs H's Bandit has done almost 80,000km in about three years.

The prejudice that exists about "high" mileages on bikes is something that astounds me -- where "high" in many people's minds is anything over 10,000km.

Quite frankly I'd be more likely to buy a properly serviced three-year-old bike with 60,000km on its clock than I would a 12-year-old bike that had done less than 10,000km.

[Taz]

My bike had 90,000kms on the clock when I bought it. Haven't had to replace anything other than consumables and a couple of bearings and it's now up to 130,000kms.

[KiwiNinja]

Thanks for the comments. Looking at the 2nd hand bikes on trademe I would be looking at something like this...

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Motorbikes/Sports/auction-286168965.htm

Has a few scratches but I don't mind....don't want to be terrified taking the bike out of the shed just in case it gets rained on. It's my first mid-large bike afterall.

You all mention that it's good to have the extras but doesn't that mean an increased change that the last owner's been in the shed messing about with it?

By the way has anyone had a ride on both the GSXR 600 and GSXR 750? If I can find a good deal on a 750 I might go for that.

[kevfromcoro]

My bike has done 88,000... been well serviced
Runs like a swiss watch...
Mate of mine has a Strom thats done well over 100,000....
runs perfect.
as stated......
the service thing is a big plus.....................................

[PirateJafa]

Thanks for the comments. Looking at the 2nd hand bikes on trademe I would be looking at something like this...

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Motorbikes/Sports/auction-286168965.htm

Has a few scratches but I don't mind....don't want to be terrified taking the bike out of the shed just in case it gets rained on. It's my first mid-large bike afterall.

You all mention that it's good to have the extras but doesn't that mean an increased change that the last owner's been in the shed messing about with it?

You might as well go for something in the same price range that is still in mint condition. Plus has the extras.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Motorbikes/Sports/auction-284118097.htm

[Maha]

Hi, I'm going to be getting my full in a couple of months and will be upgrading to 600cc bike. Open to all models really in the mid-size class e.g. GSXR, R6, CBR600rr, Kawa ZX6R or Triumph Daytona 675.

My budget is about $8-9k and so might be looking at 2005/2006 bikes.

What do I need to be aware of with bikes with 30,000 - 40,000km on the clock? I don't want to buy a bike then realise I need to spend plenty of cash getting parts replaced and serviced.

cheers

I reckon you could pick this up for $9K.
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/CategoryAttributeSearchResults.aspx?search=1&mcat=0001-0026-1255-&sidebar=1&39=Sports&40=Triumph&153=675&9=0&9=0&24=0&24=0&51=0&51=10000
Or even better...
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Motorbikes/Sports/auction-285237166.htm

[KiwiNinja]

Seen those already. Not really keen on the Daytona cause it's been used on the track. Keen on the 2005 CBRs though...there's two up on Trademe at the moment. Love the window shopping!!

[miloking]

Seen those already. Not really keen on the Daytona cause it's been used on the track. Keen on the 2005 CBRs though...there's two up on Trademe at the moment. Love the window shopping!!

If you gonna get CBR go for the 06-07 model, there were some significant performance upgrades and weight savings done on it (also large front disc, better shock) not to mention some cosmetic upgrades as well....unless of course you get the 2005 realy cheap.

By the way good choice :)

(also waiting for retard comments about honda being gay any minute now....)

[SPP]

06-07 model, there were some significant performance upgrades and weight savings done on it (also large front disc, better shock) not to mention some cosmetic upgrades as well....unless of course you get the 2005 realy cheap...

2007/08 had the re-design, a cut above the 2005/06 (and the 05/06 is a great bike!). The kwaka 636 in the link above is worth a look!

[miloking]

2007/08 had the re-design, a cut above the 2005/06 (and the 05/06 is a great bike!). The kwaka 636 in the link above is worth a look!

there is no such a thing as 07/08 ...07 and 08 are two completely different bikes (talking about 1000RR not 600RR right?)

BTW OP this one is cheap http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Motorbikes/Sports/auction-286141269.htm

[AllanB]

You definitely want to physically look at the bike.

If it is a tidy clean example them it is safe to say if the owners took the time to keep it tidy then it will have been serviced as well (yeah there are always exceptions).
Rounded nuts and damaged screws indicate a hack has worked on it. Neglect with the chain etc also indicate this.
If they claim to do their own servicing ask the oil and weight etc used - if they don't know they are likely to be full of crap.

[SPP]

there is no such a thing as 07/08 ...07 and 08 are two completely different bikes
07 is identical to 06 (apart from black swingarm and diferent graphics)
dont get stupid trademe adds confuse you, as lots of 2007 have been registered as "08" and ...

Oh, you were referring to the 1000RR. My bad. I meant the 600RR.


... will be upgrading to 600cc bike. Open to all models really in the mid-size class e.g. GSXR, R6, CBR600rr, Kawa ZX6R or Triumph Daytona 675.

M...

[miloking]

you're referring to the 1000RR. My bad. I meant the 600RR.

Yeah appologies, i was confused too :)

[SPP]

...I was confused too :)

welcome to my world :niceone:

Like all others above. 30k is not too much if the bike has been looked after.

[TOTO]

forget those bikes with moped engines.

Here is what you should buy to be a real man - http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Motorbikes/Sports/auction-284063777.htm

you are a real man, aren't you ?

[miloking]

forget those bikes with moped engines.

Here is what you should buy to be a real man - http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Motorbikes/Sports/auction-284063777.htm

you are a real man, aren't you ?

+1 on bigger engine as 600 will get boring pretty quick (i got 1000 and starting to feel bored already)...but perhaps something that will also be able to turn :)

[scracha]

Litre bikes are for fat old men. You'll get bored of riding around in 2nd gear at 3000rpm pretty quickly.

Avoid Suzuki's. They're shite. Otherwise it's all good :-)

[miloking]

Litre bikes are for fat old men. You'll get bored of riding around in 2nd gear at 3000rpm pretty quickly.

Avoid Suzuki's. They're shite. Otherwise it's all good :-)


Oh realy, well the other day i had mine up to 10,000rpm in 5th :) and iam 27 a quite skinny, lol

[TOTO]

yea but you riding a gay honda. if you were riding a gixer the thing would have blown up.

p.s. and cracked the frame for no apparent reason

[PirateJafa]

forget those bikes with moped engines.

Coming from a Hornet rider... :rofl:

Come back when you can beat a 20-year-old 400cc. ;)


yea but you riding a gay honda. if you were riding a gixer the thing would have blown up.

p.s. and cracked the frame for no apparent reason

Cracking the frame is for wimps.

<img src="http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/3928/sdc105412tm4.th.jpg"> (http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/3928/sdc105412tm4.jpg)

[blackdog]

there is no such a thing as 07/08 ...07 and 08 are two completely different bikes (talking about 1000RR not 600RR right?)

BTW OP this one is cheap http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Motorbikes/Sports/auction-286141269.htm


forget those bikes with moped engines.

Here is what you should buy to be a real man - http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Motorbikes/Sports/auction-284063777.htm

you are a real man, aren't you ?

one of these bikes will sell quickly, one will not.

[miloking]

one of these bikes will sell quickly, one will not.

Ok do i hear a challange... do you want to put a bet on it ?:)

actualy thats too easy who would want a 300kg whale with zillion miles from last millenium :D

[Okey Dokey]

I see you asked about 600 vs 750 GSXRs. I have only ridden the 750, not the 600, but for the same size frame/ weight etc, I don't know why you wouldn't choose the extra cc every time. Also the 750 is the more "iconic" bike in the range, in my opinion.

Unless ACC levies are a serious issue. Maybe some 600 riders could comment on why they didn't go the 750?

Good luck with your decision; at least you are enjoying the shopping!

[SPP]

... Maybe some 600 riders could comment on why they didn't go the 750?...

Price :crybaby:

When I got mine the K8 GSXR750 (black) was my first choice, then K8 GSXR600 (black), then 08 ZX6R (green!), then 08 CBR600RR. I didn't want to go from 250 to 1000.

Unfortunately Suzuki guys in Auckland weren't moving much from RRP being newly released models at the time. $2k (I didn't have) more than cash price for CBR from Boyd Honda or 6R from Mt Eden.

[avgas]

Anything sub 100,000 is good by me.
Will not cost you any more than typical "new bike" as there are more wrecks to get parts from after a certain age. Makes things a bit cheaper.

[Okey Dokey]

Price :crybaby:


Fair enough, that is an obvious reason (but I didn't think of it...)

[KiwiNinja]

Thanks for the commentsl. Really I think I'll have to take a few for a test drive then it's just a waiting game until the right bike comes along.

ACC levies aren't an issue so I'll be jumping at a 750 if the right one comes along. But then you ask why not a 1000? I am mainly communting and woud rather drive a mid-range bike fast-ish rather than chug along at 3k revs hardly getting out of 2nd. Really like the Daytonas but hard to find one in good condition under $10k. The bike hunt continues...

[CRF119]

30,000 isnt much but that depends on how it was ridden and maintained. Its a bit of a gamble. What i would do is find a bike you like and serch the net for any factory problems it might have things that dont show up for years. Like my CBR900RR the engines are bullet proof apart from the cam chain tensioner fails and the gears jump out if its been abused, other wise they don't die. Mines sitting at 110,000km and im happy to keep it for another year or so.

In saying that my mate toasted his clutch on his 2008R1 within 15,000km.

Good luck.

[Richard Mc F]

actualy thats too easy who would want a 300kg whale with zillion miles from last millenium :D[/QUOTE]

ME ME ME my bloated old whale has 175000 km on the clock, my ancient ducati, you know the fragile unreliable ones has 95000 altough carjam says it is more like 105000, yes I have had the engine apart to replace the main bearings, result of accident damage by the previous owner, but then I am a slow old man, so slow old bikes suit me.

Bullshit aside a well maintained high km bike is betterer than some garage queen washed to within an inch of it's life without the benifit of carefull maintanence, I have seen such bikes with rooted chains, all the cables drier than a nun's, water blasted electrics, wheel bearings, head races etc, a maintanence nightmare in the making, bikes should be be treated like women, well lubricated, ridden hard and dirty.

See you on the road motherfuckers ( unless it's too wet cold or hot for you pussies, or you need to clean your bike again, I'll be riding)

[dipshit]

Maybe some 600 riders could comment on why they didn't go the 750?

$2k cheaper for a start. That's two grand I could throw at the suspension on the 600 instead to get a real nice handling bike.

Less hp sure. But then how much do you really need..??? The 600 is already capable of some fairly impressive performance figures that many supercars would be happy with and enough top speed to lose your licence without even trying. It doesn't matter what bike you have, you could still end up feeling like it could do with more hp. (like someone said about their 1000 a few posts back in this thread)

I believe there is more to the riding experience than just how much hp you have.

Like I was talking to a guy at a rally once that had an R1 and a VFR 400. He said he preferred riding the 400 more as he just loved the way it felt and road. That kind of blew me away at the time (owned a SV1000 then) and made me think about that a bit. Can remember one of the most fun and interesting bikes I had ever ridden was an RZ 350 that had a lot of setup and suspension work done on it and even though it didn't have a lot of hp - it was very rewarding to ride!

More than happy with the 600 with my 73 kgs onboard. Kind of the modern equivalent of what an RZ 350 was a couple of decades ago perhaps..???

Plus it is turning out to be quite easy on tyres and chains and gas etc so there is no reason not to just get on and ride.

[avgas]

Thanks for the commentsl. Really I think I'll have to take a few for a test drive then it's just a waiting game until the right bike comes along.
ACC levies aren't an issue so I'll be jumping at a 750 if the right one comes along. But then you ask why not a 1000? I am mainly communting and woud rather drive a mid-range bike fast-ish rather than chug along at 3k revs hardly getting out of 2nd. Really like the Daytonas but hard to find one in good condition under $10k. The bike hunt continues...
How confident are you on the bike. I know a few people that went from gutless heaps (GPX250's, FXR150's etc) to 600cc sport bikes and dropped them all within 2 weeks.
I 'commuted' in my 1000, didn't seem to bother it. Its better to pick bikes that don't have clip on bars if your going to commute more.

[KiwiNinja]

"clip on bars"?? What do you mean...

[Okey Dokey]

[QUOTE=dipshit;1129733949]
But then how much do you really need..???
I believe there is more to the riding experience than just how much hp you have.

I find the extra hp handy for when I have my ventura luggage on whilst touring, or carrying a pillion, and it gives the bike a more torquey and v-twin like feel, in that there is power throughout the range of gears. All that appeals to me.

[dipshit]

I find the extra hp handy for when I have my ventura luggage on whilst touring, or carrying a pillion, and it gives the bike a more torquey and v-twin like feel, in that there is power throughout the range of gears. All that appeals to me.


But then as you said... you haven't ridden a 600. And in particular a K8 and on.

Before shelling out for the 600, I did consider if I wanted to spend extra for the 750.

Some people that have ridden both say the difference in hp isn't as large as you would think. They both feel very similar in power delivery, only the 750 has a wee bit more everywhere. i.e... http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3525840#post3525840

And comparing a dyno of a K8 600 and 750 does show them to be very similar in delivery. Only the 750 has 12.5 more hp and 6 lbs-ft of torque...

http://www.motorcycle-usa.com/photogallerys/gsxr_comparos.jpg

Granted having a pillion on the back of my 600 (even a lightweight asian girl) does kill its acceleration. And these days I do go touring with only a toothbrush and change of underwear and motel accommodation pre booked with wotif.com :bleh:

But in the end I chose to spend that extra $2k on an Ohlins TTX instead of the 12 hp.

[Hiflyer]

"clip on bars"?? What do you mean...

Clip on bars are handlebars that have an obvious clip onto the forks, just below the triple clamp.
From experience, the ninja 250 has clip on's above the triple clamp, but generally a sprots bike will have clip on's below the clamp,

bikes which have "bars" like my hornet, have an obvious "bent steel rod" (that's what she said) above the triple clamp, with the throttle and brake and clutch assembly on the ends

Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong people

[miloking]

But then as you said... you haven't ridden a 600. And in particular a K8 and on.

Before shelling out for the 600, I did consider if I wanted to spend extra for the 750.

Some people that have ridden both say the difference in hp isn't as large as you would think. They both feel very similar in power delivery, only the 750 has a wee bit more everywhere. i.e... http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3525840#post3525840

And comparing a dyno of a K8 600 and 750 does show them to be very similar in delivery. Only the 750 has 12.5 more hp and 6 lbs-ft of torque...

http://www.motorcycle-usa.com/photogallerys/gsxr_comparos.jpg

Granted having a pillion on the back of my 600 (even a lightweight asian girl) does kill its acceleration. And these days I do go touring with only a toothbrush and change of underwear and motel accommodation pre booked with wotif.com :bleh:

But in the end I chose to spend that extra $2k on an Ohlins TTX instead of the 12 hp.

I didnt know that the difference is only 12hp, thats almost not worth it! i am sure you can make that up later with nice exhaust and PCIII etc. (and still enjoy the lower rego fees) but maybe you need to get smaller asian girl if its noticable on 600 :msn-wink:
....only thing to consider is the 2k spent on TTX wont have nearly any resale value as opposed to higher resalle value of 750 but who buys new bikes and thinks of resale value???

[dipshit]

....only thing to consider is the 2k spent on TTX wont have nearly any resale value as opposed to higher resalle value of 750

I won't be selling the 600 with the TTX on. It will be coming off and sold separately with the standard shock back on the bike.

[Okey Dokey]

[QUOTE=dipshit;1129736503]

Some people that have ridden both say the difference in hp isn't as large as you would think. /QUOTE]

Yes, and at suzukicycle.org the statistics for my '05 750 are 155hp and 163kg. The '08 600 is 125hp and 163kg. So is it only 12hp difference, or is it 30hp difference?

[dipshit]

Yes, and at suzukicycle.org the statistics for my '05 750 are 155hp and 163kg. The '08 600 is 125hp and 163kg. So is it only 12hp difference, or is it 30hp difference?


That would be Suzuki's theoretical at the crank hp. A 750 does not make 155 hp at the rear wheel. Typically the 750 puts out around 120 hp and the 600 makes around 105 - 109 at the rear wheel. So the difference is around 10 or 15 at the wheel.

[Okey Dokey]

How many 750s were tested to give you that figure? If Suzuki made up hp, the other manufacturers would jump all over them, surely.

Apologies to the OP, as this is getting a bit off your original question, but while I understand why someone would choose not to buy the extra 250cc (and BTW, I find the stock suspension more than adequate for road riding, so don't need to spend money there), but it seems to me that there is no justification to imply the 750 is not as good as it is.

[dipshit]

How many 750s were tested to give you that figure? If Suzuki made up hp, the other manufacturers would jump all over them, surely.

Well not many people pay much attention to manufacturer's alleged hp figures anyhow. Usually the first thing a magazine test will do is throw one on a dyno and measure actual rear wheel hp for themselves. 155 at the rear wheel is more 1000 territory from a couple of years ago. I can assure you, you will not find any standard GSXR 750's putting out 155 at the rear wheel.


but while I understand why someone would choose not to buy the extra 250cc

The difference between a 600 and a 750 is 150cc




but it seems to me that there is no justification to imply the 750 is not as good as it is.

Of course the 750 is a fantastic bike and the extra hp is nice to have. If I was a larger build and weighed more around 100 kg... then yes, I probably would have gone for the 750 over the 600.

But as it stands the 600 also makes a very competent road bike in its own right. Heck, you can be cruising along at 140 kmh and the tac needle is only halfway to the redline. People saying that a 600 is working too hard on the road is probably more a psychological thing.

[Okey Dokey]

The difference between a 600 and a 750 is 150cc



.....oops..... :)

[dipshit]

Hey, my 600 is lighter and makes more hp than the 1985 GSX-R750 (f) I used to own.

:Punk:

[Okey Dokey]

:o And my 750 is 30kg lighter than the 88 gsxr 750 my husband rides...and he is still faster than me!

[Pussy]

Hey OD... with regards to published hp figures... brochures typically quote crankshaft hp... the true and more reliable method is rear wheel hp.
The K6 sem fiddy is approx 130 rwhp, but about 145 at the crank.
I'll be able to accurately report the rwhp of my bike in a few weeks time when I get the PC111 dyno tuned

[scracha]

Apologies to the OP, as this is getting a bit off your original question, but while I understand why someone would choose not to buy the extra 250cc (and BTW, I find the stock suspension more than adequate for road riding, so don't need to spend money there), but it seems to me that there is no justification to imply the 750 is not as good as it is.
Aftermarket suspenders can make a ride fantastic, however if the bike's over 30K then perhaps budgeting on having the OEM shock serviced would be money welll spend.

600 vs 750......mmmm....not much in it with regards to PEAK horsepower....but the 750 pishes all over it on torque and that's what you use on the road. The 750 is a bargain. Shame it's a Suzuki though.

[Okey Dokey]

Hey OD... with regards to published hp figures... brochures typically quote crankshaft hp... the true and more reliable method is rear wheel hp.


I know, but I figured the 600 and the 750 would both be "exaggerated", possibly by a similar margin. But it still showed a greater than 12hp difference between the two. TBH, I'm already a bit sick of the whole discussion, but just felt the OP would benefit from hearing two sides (or more!) of the story. I was trying to make a point about the peak hp of the 05 models versus later years, as we were answering a question about bikes with over 30 000km. But now I find I wish I'd never discussed it...

However, it will be neat to hear how your bike goes :)

[dipshit]

Saw this thread today and it reminded me of the discussion we had here about the difference between the 600 and 750 GSXR...

http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showthread.php?p=4593938#post4593938

[rie]

would you bother taking the fairings off to inspect a potential buy? something i considered doing when i saw the shitty job some people had done to disguise damage on their bikes.

[Corse1]

Aftermarket suspenders can make a ride fantastic, however if the bike's over 30K then perhaps budgeting on having the OEM shock serviced would be money welll spend.

600 vs 750......mmmm....not much in it with regards to PEAK horsepower....but the 750 pishes all over it on torque and that's what you use on the road. The 750 is a bargain. Shame it's a Suzuki though.

Oh yeah the horsepower war,.....good to have more horsepower if you are racing and always at the top end of the rev range where you achieve the higher output.....
I agree every day riding the 750 will have more usable power/torque lower in the range. Too many people read HP figures as the be all end all...i have bigger balls than you:2guns:

Just ride both amd see for yourself

[j_redley]

And if ongoing road costs are an issue, remember that 600 is considerably less to register than a 750.

[Gibbo89]

And if ongoing road costs are an issue, remember that 600 is considerably less to register than a 750.

100 dollars more isn't too bad. i.e. 2 dollars a week. just depends on ur money situation i guess, a student might not want to pay 100 bucks more for 150cc but a full time worker will probably not care.