View Full Version : Anyone got a blind bearing puller they are willing to lend?
birdhandler
8th May 2010, 12:23
I need to remove a 30mm bearing race from the steering head none of my usual brtal methods will work :angry:
I live in papakura, auckland
Any help would be appreciated
Thanks :yes:
Arc welder is the only way to get those muvvas out
paturoa
8th May 2010, 12:32
Arc welder is the only way to get those muvvas out
How would a alloy frame handle that?
paturoa
8th May 2010, 12:33
Can't you get a rod onto it from the other end of the stem?
Is this any help?
http://www.garagenight.tv/ep-5-replacing-steering-head-bearings/
R1madness
8th May 2010, 12:39
Yep Ikons arc welder idea is spot on. Run a bead of arc weld around the bearing surface and let it cool. This will shrink the bearing allowing it to just about fall out. Just make sure you disconnect the battery, cdi, fuel injection controler before arc welding.
CookMySock
8th May 2010, 14:25
Yep Ikons arc welder idea is spot on. Run a bead of arc weld around the bearing surface and let it cool. This will shrink the bearing allowing it to just about fall out.This is an old trick and it works very well.
Smash the inner race out any way you are able. Larger hammer and and solid punch works quite well. You must wear substantial safety goggles doing this - the punch and bearing will shed chips of glass-hard high speed steel.
Once you have the inner race left, use a small welding rod and lay a continuous bead around the inside of the bearing outer. Do it in one go.
Thirty seconds later you should have the bearing outer in your hand. Weld on the bearing inner - don't touch anything else with the rod tip. It's quite curious to see it happen.
Steve
birdhandler
8th May 2010, 15:01
thanks for the advice
does this work with a mig welder ?
Garage night is great will check bac periodically
Cheers
Ocean1
8th May 2010, 15:24
does this work with a mig welder ?
If you can get close enough to aim properly and get an actual weld bead (although it don't need to be pretty).
Doesn't need much, three 10mm stitches spaced around the ball/roller face will do it.
No hurry to pick it out either, wait for it to cool some.
PS: smear some crayon over any exposed surfaces around the bearing to stop the splatter sticking.
Squiggles
8th May 2010, 17:02
grind em out :shutup:
CookMySock
8th May 2010, 17:11
grind em out :shutup:Generally used when you cant get in there with the grinder. Also used to remove clutch thrust bearings.
Steve
This is an old trick and it works very well.
Smash the inner race out any way you are able. Larger hammer and and solid punch works quite well. You must wear substantial safety goggles doing this - the punch and bearing will shed chips of glass-hard high speed steel.
Once you have the inner race left, use a small welding rod and lay a continuous bead around the inside of the bearing outer. Do it in one go.
Thirty seconds later you should have the bearing outer in your hand. Weld on the bearing inner - don't touch anything else with the rod tip. It's quite curious to see it happen.
Steve
Sorry DB but bearings are not made of high speed steel and why do you want to smash a inner race of a taper roller bearing out, the inner is not retained in the bearing and just falls out.
Just be carefull laying the weld you don't weld the inner race into the steering head.
Um, OP , do you mean remove the inner race of the sterring head bearing from the steering stem on the triple tree? Or remove the outer race from the recess in the steering head? I read it as the latter but now I'm not sure.
grind em out :shutup:
I have seen a very keen young fitter take a grinder to a mill shaft bearing and turn a 5 tonne $20,000 shaft to scrap doing this.
Besides where are you going to get a grinder with a wheel smaller than 30mm, unless you mean a die grinder in which case you have a lot more patience than I do.
Um, OP , do you mean remove the inner race of the sterring head bearing from the steering stem on the triple tree? Or remove the outer race from the recess in the steering head? I read it as the latter but now I'm not sure.
Good point. I am assuming that its a "30mm" outer stuck in a hole and not the inner stuck on a shaft.
CookMySock
8th May 2010, 19:41
Sorry DB but bearings are not made of high speed steel and why do you want to smash a inner race of a taper roller bearing out, the inner is not retained in the bearing and just falls out.Split hair much? In this case it falls out. Doesn't matter what they are made of. Take a large and heavy hammer, a solid punch, and a bearing, and bash it hard, and you will get shards. Wear safety glasses or pay the price.
Steve
Split hair much? In this case it falls out. Doesn't matter what they are made of. Take a large and heavy hammer, a solid punch, and a bearing, and bash it hard, and you will get shards. Wear safety glasses or pay the price.
Steve
Don't take a BFH (big frecking hammer) to anything you dont want to bugger. The bearing shell is a lot stronger than the steel the steering tube is made of. Back in the old days you might have been able to split a shell but the metals used now days are very tough and strong.
birdhandler
9th May 2010, 11:13
To clarify its the outer race thats pressed into the steering head and I got the dimesion wrong its 55mm not 30mm
I got the outer lower race off with a dremel cut off wheel there a great little tool
Thanks for your advice
any idea why the welding trick works?
Ocean1
9th May 2010, 11:20
any idea why the welding trick works?
The heat expands the shell, but because it's constrained by the headstock most of that expansion becomes internal shear, within the shell itself.
When the shell cools the contraction is unconstrained, so it shrinks more than it expanded. wolla.
Actually doesn't need to be an arc welder, any method of heating the shell (quickly) and not the headstock will work. It's just that a stick is easy to aim and control in there.
proturn
9th May 2010, 11:22
Hi I am in Drury and should be able to give you some assistance call me on 09 2948102 after 9.00am Ron
The weld goes in hot and the weld shrinks as it cools. It also anneals the bearing shell which softeners and allows the weld to shrink the shell.
Don't forget to disconnect the battery and put the negative terminal as close to the weld as possible. Your electronics don't like stray earth currents.
One last thing try a good hard punch, and grind the end so it has say a slight 15 deg slope on it. You might then just be able to catch the side of the shell and get it out the normal way. Its worth a crack before you try the welder.
proturn
9th May 2010, 11:37
HI the above are good to some extent but if the inner race is stuck on the stem be carefull not to get too heavy with the hammer or you will be buying more than new bearing. if this is the bottom bearing inner which would be pressed on the base of the stem then heat will increase the bearing size allowing it to fall off if on the other hand you are talking about the outer races in the head stock they may have been fitted with the new Locktite materials and heat will release them also. Give me a call on 09 2948102 on Monday after 9.00am I am in Drury and could assist if required to remove the bearing as we have a engineering business and get challenges like this all the time so dond destroy the bike to remove a little bearing as many before have done out of frustration!!!
Squiggles
9th May 2010, 21:32
unless you mean a die grinder in which case you have a lot more patience than I do.
yep, took me a while last time :lol:
Max Preload
10th May 2010, 00:01
I've never seen a taper roller bearing cup in a headstock that couldn't simply be drifted out. And I've seen shitloads. Just like wheel bearings on non-driving wheels of cars.
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