DR650SE muffler options [Archive]

DR650gary

10th May 2010, 22:19

Hi all, new to the site. Bought a DR650SE for myself and a DR200SE for my wife. Looking for a exhaust alternative for the 650 and wondered if a DRZ400E can would do the job.

I also ride a ZRX1200S and my wife rides a Cagiva Raptor 650. Bought the DR's to open up our riding options. Have lowered the DR200 by dropping the preload on the rear shock and pulling the forks through the clamps 20mm. Makes the ride doable for her as she is only 5'1".

First off road pics, ride to the dams behind Shannon.

NordieBoy

11th May 2010, 07:10

Any can for the GSXR1000 (01-02) would be good. The 400 can would probably be more restrictive than the stocker.
Are you looking for performance or sound?

dino3310

11th May 2010, 11:57

welcome aboard Gary
the 400 muffler is to restricting on the 650 i tried one once and it made me 650 run crappy. theres a few good after market ones around but can get expensive, theres mod's you can do to improve yours and no doubt nordie will inform of them after you answer the 'performance or sound' question.

DR650gary

18th May 2010, 22:07

Hi guys and thanks for the responses. New to this forum so a bit rusty on the followups so my apologies for the tardiness.

I am looking for noise a bit, performance a bit more and weight reduction as well, if that is possible. Not too keen to impact on the DR's reliability, but I do run a Yoshimura titanium system on the ZRX and do like my rides to sound like a motorcycle. Would also like to give a bit more to the DR200, yes I know it is a 200, and I grabbed an older DR200 muffler to start the mod rather than damage the stocker currently fitted. Hop that all makes sense and doesn't read like a novel.

dino3310

19th May 2010, 16:16

:lol: stock DRs do sound pretty gay

Box'a'bits

19th May 2010, 17:47

:lol: Stock DRs do sound pretty gay... Gotta love those DRs
Mate, you really need to proof read before you post...:shifty:
So, you coming out then? :laugh::laugh::laugh::bleh:

dino3310

19th May 2010, 18:46

Mate, you really need to proof read before you post...:shifty:
So, you coming out then? :laugh::laugh::laugh::bleh:

:lol: good one Luv

DR650gary

19th May 2010, 19:13

Bit the bullet and grabbed the Pro Circuit T4 that was on Trademe last week. Seemed a good option and I keep the stock stock for the future, in case the future buyer likes the quiet sound. Any advice on mods for the DR200 exhaust would be greatly appreciated. I have a spare so I can keep the stocker stock as above.

Thanks

tig99

19th May 2010, 20:45

You could try a GSXR1000 muffler. Brother has a Dr650 with muffler dyno jet kit and opened airbox. It made a heap of difference, from a mild bike to a bit of a town nutter.

wysper

19th May 2010, 21:17

DR650gary

20th May 2010, 08:32

I paid $450 for it. Not cheap but seemed a very fair price. Any other option required a mid pipe to be fabricated and that would have been a few bucks so this seemed a good option. Will fit on arrival and post a comment. Took the front pipe off the DR200 and cleaned the weld up. There was a ridge and a small lump that may have had an impact on exhaust flow so now it's gone. Anyone done that to the DR650?

NordieBoy

20th May 2010, 08:40

There was a ridge and a small lump that may have had an impact on exhaust flow so now it's gone. Anyone done that to the DR650?

Anyone not done that to the 650?

From...
http://www.photostorage.nelson.geek.nz/sports/motorsport/mybikes/DR650/20070427%20Header%20Weld%20Grind/slides/20070427-164734.jpg

To...
http://www.photostorage.nelson.geek.nz/sports/motorsport/mybikes/DR650/20070427%20Header%20Weld%20Grind/slides/20070507-173208.jpg

Over 60% more area now.

DR650gary

20th May 2010, 14:12

Right, motivated, off to the barn now. Will post before and after, unless they are pointless.

DR650gary

20th May 2010, 15:41

From this

208305

To this

208306

Not as clean a job I admit and...Bugger, top stud

208307

Stud remover or weld a nut on? Not much visible so probably drill and try to extract, then end up redrilling and tapping. Bugger.

wysper

20th May 2010, 16:07

Anyone not done that to the 650?

Over 60% more area now.

Yeah I haven't. What do you do? Do you need to weld it or something? Sorry I am pretty useless at this sort of thing, barely can tell a weld from a rivet. :shit:

NordieBoy

20th May 2010, 17:43

Yeah I haven't. What do you do? Do you need to weld it or something? Sorry I am pretty useless at this sort of thing, barely can tell a weld from a rivet. :shit:

Borrow a round end carbide burr and use it in your die-grinder.

Simple really.

Grind the crap out of the weld.

:D

DR650gary

20th May 2010, 18:07

And don't be a pratt like me and break the stud. I neglected to heat it at all first as the first one came out so easily. More fool me. If you haven't got a carbide tip, you can buy a packet of 10 bits from Supercheap for about $8 and throw them on your electric drill. Electric, not battery as it will take a while. I chewed through three of the bits, although they are not the best quality.

Now got a little bit of popping on deceleration. I am sure I didn't have that before, although the one stud mount could have something to do with that.

gav24

20th May 2010, 21:08

I neglected to heat it at all first as the first one came out so easily. More fool me.

Heat what? the stud? Do they break unless you give it a blast with the blow torch, I thouht CRC overnite would be good enough? I am about to get started on this mod and dont want the hassle of a broken stud...
As for the Popping, I currently run a modified airbox, hi flow foam filter, Procircuit T-4 can (with spark arrestor), and Dyno jet kit, Doesnt matter what I do to the carb settings (so far) it pops like crazy if you really use the engine breaking. Sometimes its cool, but occasionally a bit embarrasing... usually cool!

NordieBoy

20th May 2010, 22:26

I just undid them. No heating.

DR650gary

21st May 2010, 08:17

The DR200 had studs with nuts on. One came off easily, one came out with the nut. On the DR650 they are cap head bolts. The first one was a breeze, the second one was seized but after WD40 and time started to move. Got to 7 1/2 quarter turns on the ratchet before it broke. I would suggest heat if it doesn't start straight away. Mine is a 2007 and the bolts seem well rusted.

DR650gary

21st May 2010, 16:39

A day to forget. Went to my M/c mechanic mate and so we drilled a pilot hole, but as it was a caphead bolt rather than a stud it was a mission. So he decided to try the "weld the nut on" trick. So, after that failed a few times, back to the drilling, but now with a lovely cover of weld. Finally through with a 3/16th drill and out with the stud extractor. After that broke back to the "weld the nut on" trick. Now parked at my engineer mate's workshop for extra activity tomorrow. There is a small hole at the bottom of the hole the bolt/stud goes into. I am unsure why it is there but can only assume that it is what lets the water in to rust the bolt in place. It is the top stud but impossible to get into the thread from behind, but after this is all done, I may put a wee drop of silicon there to seal the hole.

Bugger.

DR650gary

22nd May 2010, 18:50

Back from the engineers, broken bolt firmly in place. He has managed to anneal the extractor a bit so I may be able to drill it out. Will try tomorrow and if unsuccessful, head off and another plan.

Bugger!

dino3310

22nd May 2010, 19:38

bloody bugger alrite mate

DR650gary

23rd May 2010, 18:11

Thought "bugger it" and jumped on the bikes for a quick trip to Wanga Vegas (or should that be Whanga Vegas) for lunch. Me on the ZRX, wife on the Raptor 650, a mate on his Sprint and one of his colleagues on her Harley. Not too bad with the heated grips on and we were able to test the P.H.S. walkie talkie controls as well. Communication ok to around 75kph then too much wind noise.

Lovely day for riding though.

DR650gary

24th May 2010, 19:02

All done. Managed to drill down a bit through the stud extractor (about 8mm) then tap it out through the bottom of the broken bolt. Then drilled out the bolt and after many hours I am ready for the helicoil kit tomorrow. Will be able to keep the same size (8mm) bolt with the stainless helicoil in place. Anyone able to advise if the standard fitting is a caphead bolt or stud with a nut?

Thanks

NordieBoy

24th May 2010, 19:55

DR650gary

24th May 2010, 21:51

Caphead standard.

Thanks. What do you think about sealing the hole with grease or silicon?

NordieBoy

25th May 2010, 09:02

Thanks. What do you think about sealing the hole with grease or silicon?

I'd rather use high-temp anti-seize on the bolt..

DR650gary

25th May 2010, 10:52

I'd rather use high-temp anti-seize on the bolt..

I think you are right. I will use a nickel based one and with the stainless helicoil, should never seize again.

New Pro Circuit arrived today. 2.5 kgs as opposed to 6.3 kgs for the standard. Hopes it makes a difference when I am pushing it up those sand dunes!

Cheers

DR650gary

25th May 2010, 18:14

All finished, thank god!

Painted the header nice and flat black and fitted the Pro Circuit pipe. I certainly won't be sneaking up on anyone. Will remove the cap and adjust mixture tomorrow.

gav24

25th May 2010, 20:35

Keep us all posted on the final carb settings you get too, with that pipe, I have the same and a Dyno jet kit. I put the flame arrestor cap back in as it helped reduce the popping on overrun... Sounds good though!

NordieBoy

25th May 2010, 20:45

All finished, thank god!

Painted the header nice and flat black and fitted the Pro Circuit pipe. I certainly won't be sneaking up on anyone. Will remove the cap and adjust mixture tomorrow.

What paint did you use?

DR650gary

25th May 2010, 21:01

What paint did you use?

Paint can is labelled "VHT", "Flame Proof Coating 1350 degrees". Supplied by Pioneer Equipment, Penrose. Either Supercheap or Warehouse i think. Have used it before and it lasted quite well. I used flat black but may go for aluminium next time. The secret for me was heating the piece before painting ( I ran a hot air paint stripper through it) and curing it slowly, ie: motor on for a few minutes then off. Did that a few time then left it fop the night. It will wear off but it looks good for a time. If I don't get a stainless header in the future, I may consider ceramic coating it...just for fun.

NordieBoy

26th May 2010, 09:36

If I don't get a stainless header in the future, I may consider ceramic coating it...just for fun.

You've got a stainless header.

DR650gary

26th May 2010, 10:01

You've got a stainless header.

I did wonder, but the corrosion in some areas was dreadful. I actually meant one of the oversize ones I saw on Keintech.com but was hoping I could get one made here for less than $US179 plus the freight. Have looked longingly at a few larger items o/seas but the freight was prohibitive. I cleaned it up with a soft wire brush then 800 wet & dry but thought nice black would look good for a week or 2.

NordieBoy

26th May 2010, 15:08

Not so much corrosion as very high temp dirt.

DR650gary

26th May 2010, 16:06

Yeah, it scrubbed up OK but will never be nice and shiny again. It looks OK black and when that wears off will try aluminum.

Moved the mixture screw out 1 1/2 turns from stock. Turned the carb sideways and drilled out the cap, carefully, then flicked what was left out with a small flathead screwdriver. Still pops a little on over run and deceleration but that saves phoning ahead to get the garage door opened..:msn-wink:

Seemed a little more responsive but that may be in my mind. Impossible to really tell without a dyno and I'm not that bothered. New exhaust looks good, weighs less and sound nicer.

Cheers

NordieBoy

26th May 2010, 18:13

They scrub up fine.
This was about 50,000km old before I scrubbed it up.

http://www.photostorage.nelson.geek.nz/sports/motorsport/mybikes/DR650/20080510%20Header%20shine/slides/20080510-152732-000005.jpg

NordieBoy

26th May 2010, 18:17

Moved the mixture screw out 1 1/2 turns from stock. Turned the carb sideways and drilled out the cap, carefully, then flicked what was left out with a small flathead screwdriver. Still pops a little on over run and deceleration but that saves phoning ahead to get the garage door opened..:msn-wink:

Have you popped the snorkle and put a 1mm thick washer under the needle clip?

If you havn't then there won't be much performance increase at all. You've just made it louder.

DR650gary

27th May 2010, 09:07

Have you popped the snorkle and put a 1mm thick washer under the needle clip?

If you havn't then there won't be much performance increase at all. You've just made it louder.

I think removing the weld ridge made a difference to both bikes. Not so much as faster but did seem to rev more freely. Snorkel? I assume that is the rubber tube on the top of the airbox. Is there an obstruction in the tube? Is it there to allow high water riding, or just because they can? Thanks

NordieBoy

27th May 2010, 09:49

Snorkel? I assume that is the rubber tube on the top of the airbox. Is there an obstruction in the tube? Is it there to allow high water riding, or just because they can? Thanks

That's the one. The bottom edge of it is only a couple of mm higher than the top of the airbox and it really restricts the intake.

wysper

27th May 2010, 11:44

That's the one. The bottom edge of it is only a couple of mm higher than the top of the airbox and it really restricts the intake.

man, I gotta stop reading these threads... there is so much to do to my DR!

Monstaman

27th May 2010, 13:12

there is so much to do to my DR!

That is half the fun doin farkles (and repairs)

wysper

27th May 2010, 14:43

That is half the fun doin farkles (and repairs)

I will be doing scottish farkeling first - ie cheap or free :innocent:

DR650gary

27th May 2010, 15:05

I will be doing scottish farkeling first - ie cheap or free :innocent:

Hells Bells, remove snorkel $0.00, add $0.01 stainless washer, I would think a Scotsman would be foaming at the mouth in anticipation of the savings.

The reason for the Pro Circuit was noise firstly and noise secondly! All other benefits are a bonus. I am never keen to modify a stock piece in a way that is undoable in case a future buyer is a nancy and wants everything original. Hence, we have stock exhaust system (complete) for a ZRX1200 on the wall, look out in case of earthquake, RF900 stock can, Raptor 1000 stock cans (lovely in stainless) plus assorted bits for most of the bikes that I have owned in the last 15 years. Must have a cleanout.

Cheers

wysper

27th May 2010, 15:22

Hells Bells, remove snorkel $0.00, add $0.01 stainless washer, I would think a Scotsman would be foaming at the mouth in anticipation of the savings.

Cheers

Sounds about my cost. Can I do much damage? That is a real risk with me and mechanical things. I will change the muffler too at some stage. However pack rack and paniers are ahead of that.
Plus I need new boots and some more suitable off road gear, the leather suit isnt the best. Looks like 1Tonne has some alright stuff in the way of gear. Boots are scary money though.

Monstaman

27th May 2010, 16:09

I will be doing scottish farkeling first - ie cheap or free :innocent:

HA, I am a Dutch Quantity Surveyor and my wife is a Chinese Accountant, anything ova a fiva is a major item of expenditure :shit:

I like free farkles ... although I am allowed to spend if I want I try and keep it to a budget or it could run away in an instant.

DR650gary

27th May 2010, 18:04

I hear you. Still on road boots myself but luckily I had a spare set of gear, non leather, and removed the linings of both and they are fine for the riding I do which is a combination of road then gravel and sand. Grabbed a moto X helmet each but was able to get a great set of new gear for my wife as her road gear was far to cumbersome. Boot prices are a bloody joke and it seems most of the cheaper stuff is road only. May have a source come June and will post here if it pans out. So far, post sale extras exceed 15% of the purchase price of the 2 bikes.

Broken stuff is a bugger so be careful around that front pipe. I am probably the only one so far that has had the problem but the top bolt was stuck fast. At least I was able to do the drilling out myself but it is a real time consumer and no fun. At least I had a bike lifter to get it at a decent height to work on.

NordieBoy

27th May 2010, 21:15

Fly Stinger MX boots are about $180 new.

Their ATV version is very nice for adventuring too as it's got a good workboot sole, nice to walk in and still about $180.

wysper

28th May 2010, 16:17

Fly Stinger MX boots are about $180 new.

Their ATV version is very nice for adventuring too as it's got a good workboot sole, nice to walk in and still about $180.
Thanks Nordie. I will check em out.

Padmei

28th May 2010, 17:05

HA, I am a Dutch Quantity Surveyor .

OH you are from Holland- isssn't dat veird.

wadaminute.....mmm thas a keeper

Monstaman

28th May 2010, 17:11

OH you are from Holland- isssn't dat veird.

... you do that well :laugh: .... do you know..... :shifty: the secret handshake :shifty:

DR650gary

6th June 2010, 17:39

Have you popped the snorkle and put a 1mm thick washer under the needle clip?

If you havn't then there won't be much performance increase at all. You've just made it louder.

Ok, just removed the snorkel and put a .75mm washer under the needle. Far too wet today to go for a play so it may have to wait a day or two. In running it in the barn, it did seem to have some decent backfiring at the higher rev range but does seem willing to rev a bit better.

Will ride tomorrow if possible.

Cheers

NordieBoy

6th June 2010, 19:09

Ok, just removed the snorkel and put a .75mm washer under the needle. Far too wet today to go for a play so it may have to wait a day or two. In running it in the barn, it did seem to have some decent backfiring at the higher rev range but does seem willing to rev a bit better.

Will ride tomorrow if possible.

Cheers

And adjust the mixture screw for best revs and then back in half a turn.

DR650gary

6th June 2010, 19:52

And adjust the mixture screw for best revs and then back in half a turn.

Ok, will do and drop a note about the result.

Thanks

DR650gary

11th June 2010, 16:51

Pro circuit in place, .75mm washer under needle spacer and snorkel gone. Can't say that it is better or worse but does seem to rev more freely and is an easy cruiser at 100 - 110 kph. Pulls away from a lower speed in top than it did before without stumbling badly but without a rev counter impossible to say if it is actually better or worse. Will run it this way for a while as I am happy with it as it is. Will hit the trails when the weather gets better and work allows it.

Cheers

dino3310

11th June 2010, 17:27

seem to rev more freely and is an easy cruiser at 100 - 110 kph.
Pulls away from a lower speed in top than it did before without stumbling badly.

sounds better to me

DR650gary

11th June 2010, 20:06

seem to rev more freely and is an easy cruiser at 100 - 110 kph.
Pulls away from a lower speed in top than it did before without stumbling badly.

sounds better to me

I know, but that is after one ride and only on the highway. Need a bit more time to really assess, then maybe reverse and see if there really is a difference.

Cheers

TangoCharlie

17th June 2010, 15:03

FMF Q4 - just had one fitted this week. Removed snorkle, cut air box lid, 160 main jet, raised needle 2mm.
Weather is crap so have only ridden it home from Sportszone Suzuki. Sounds great and has more mid to high range power.
Saved a lot of weight also...

cold comfort

19th June 2010, 16:17

Had a nice light stainless muffler made up. Problem now is horrendus backfiring on over -run and flame being expelled after shut down. Would not have thought it would be that lean. Will have to modify the jets as above but don't want to sacrifice too much fuel economy. (would probably be a 170 main) I will probably get the diameter of the can reduced first. Any thoughts gentlemen?

NordieBoy

19th June 2010, 16:20

Had a nice light stainless muffler made up by GPCustom (he of bash plate fame) Problem now is HORRENDUS backfiring on over -run and FLAME being expelled after shut down. Would not have thought it would be that lean. Will have to modify the jets as above but don't want to sacrifice too much fuel economy. (would probably be a 170 main) I will probably get the diameter of the can reduced first. Any thoughts gentlemen?

What's your current jetting?

cold comfort

19th June 2010, 16:25

Standard (140 i believe) haven't got around to changing anything there, including air box. I know its prob a case of trial and error but what is your best guess on size considering the magnitude of the problem?

gpcustom

19th June 2010, 18:22

dont worry i willl sort the problem. I dont know why this has happened. The only thing that ive done diffrent on your pipe was adding the chamber to the front of the muffler maybe this is causeing the problem. Im going to cut muffler open and reduce the inner perf pipe and get rid of the chamber then fit back on and see what happens

Im verry dissapionted with myself have never had this happen befor:gob:

NordieBoy

19th June 2010, 18:42

If you've kept the airbox stock then the jetting shouldn't need to change.

NordieBoy

19th June 2010, 18:45

gpcustom

19th June 2010, 18:53

cold comfort

19th June 2010, 21:21

NordieBoy

19th June 2010, 23:01

lol thats cool is that a 4cly i see in there??

not keen to look at doing any mufflers im im um whats the word:shit:

I wiil sort cold comforts muffler i made a pipe not to long a go for a xr 600 and i didnt have this problem i dont understand whats gone so wrong ??

1981 GSX400ADV or DR400F.

With an open pipe a stock jetted DR will make a racket on the over-run.

Hell, even a nicely dynojetted DR will backfire a lot. The pipe just dictates how loud.

DR650gary

19th June 2010, 23:12

The pipe just dictates how loud.

Loud...Like it lots. :innocent:

Hey, what's with all the deaths on the road in your area? Your local commander blames old farts like me. Seems like you are going to get stopped for no reason, just a chat. Pity they don't do that for all the dickheads in cars, changing lanes without indicating, drinking coffee..texting...calling...changing stations while driving. Just came back from Auckland, by car unfortunately, and I am amazed by the poor and inattentive driving on the road. Also surprised by the lack of bikes on the roads in Auckland. Seems the white shoe brigade would rather listen to the radio on their homeward commute for an hour or so than flick through the traffic.

gpcustom

20th June 2010, 09:09

Hey dude- no reflection on your excellent fabrication skills. Don't take my post personally. Could just be my dodgy DR. It looks like, as you say, by reducing the inner diameter it may well sort the issue. As Fran says there is no point jumping into carb mods until that's eliminated.

sorry didnt mean for it to sound like that im not taken it personall at all. I just havnt had that happen befor and its got me stumped . Ive been awake since 5am thinking about it ive decided to scrap that muffler and start again ive had a better idea:wari:

dino3310

20th June 2010, 10:06

Loud...Like it lots. :innocent:

Hey, what's with all the deaths on the road in your area? Your local commander blames old farts like me. Seems like you are going to get stopped for no reason, just a chat. Pity they don't do that for all the dickheads in cars, changing lanes without indicating, drinking coffee..texting...calling...changing stations while driving. Just came back from Auckland, by car unfortunately, and I am amazed by the poor and inattentive driving on the road. Also surprised by the lack of bikes on the roads in Auckland. Seems the white shoe brigade would rather listen to the radio on their homeward commute for an hour or so than flick through the traffic.

:lol: thats why we call them and only them Jafa's

DR650gary

20th June 2010, 11:19

:lol: thats why we call them and only them Jafa's

Found the driving around Te Rapa interesting at best :blink:

Mind you, just north of where I live is Levin and I think you have to tick "Idiot Driver" on your CV before you are allowed to move in. I think riding a bike makes you more aware but I do feel there has been a definite drop in standards on the road in recent years.

I guess as long as we all ride with more awareness we will survive and probably reduce those pointless deaths that Tasman has experienced over the last 9 months.

cold comfort

20th June 2010, 12:18

Could we keep this thread to the topic please "DR650SE MUFFLER OPTIONS"

gpcustom

4th July 2010, 20:22

DR650gary

5th July 2010, 09:11

Ordered jet kits for DR650 and DR200 to go with the Pro Circuit and Big Dog exhausts and also grabbed one for the ZRX as I have an aftermarket system on that as well. $279 landed in NZ for all so pleased with that.

Cheers

cold comfort

14th July 2010, 15:10

well we are about to try out muffler #2 hopefully ive got rid of the flame problem alltho it would have looked cool at night time:Punk:

I will be fitting the new muffler tomorow so fingers crossed and will post some pics

Just had fueling adjustments sorted. Snorkel gone,150 main, raised neddle etc. Still a bit noisy on over-run but quite acceptable.( As Nordie said any straight pipe wil do that). Feels stronger in mid range and great sound. As for performance/mileage only time will tell.