Ohlins rear shock shim stacks for NZ road conditions

[Odakyu-sen]

I hear that it's not enough just to fit a second-hand Ohlins rear shock to your bike and expect everything to be okay. Seems there are several things to consider.
1. Shock needs to have been serviced (done)
2. Need spring to suit my weight and riding style (okay)
3. Need correct preload (done)
4. Need to adjust length of shock (done)
5. Need to set slow-speed compression and rebound dampening (recommended settings work fine)
6. Need to know that shim stack is set up for riding conditions (hmmm...need to check that one)

Since any adjustment of the shim stack would be a job for the Ohlins agent, I have a question for you, Robert. When you pull a shock apart, can you look at the shim stack and say to yourself "aha -- that's a setup for US conditions; it won't really do a good job on NZ roads" or do you say to yourself "gee, let's change the stack and see if it works better"?

In other words, can you tell just by looking at a shim stack (numbers on the shims, shim thicknesses, diameters, etc.) if a stack is "right for Kiwi roads" or is it hit and miss until you get it right. If someone handed you a shim stack from a stock set up perfectly for a place where they have nice, smooth roads, would you instantly know that it wouldn't be optimal for NZ conditions (lumpy roads).

The reason is my Ohlins will be due for a service in a bit, and I want to know if you can easily tell if its shim stack is optimal for solo riding on NZ roads. Could you recognise a mis-matched shim stack if you saw one, and make a suggestion to the client to make a change? Or doesn't it really matter that much? Or is it damned near impossible to "read" shim stacks like a mechanic would read a spark plug.

[Robert Taylor]

First off ( and it doesnt neccessarily apply in your singular case ) its amazing how many people out there think Ohlins ( or any other shock ) is a ''one size fits all'' and all those external adjusters make them fully adjustable. NOT SO! You may get the shock to fit, BUT.............
1) Is the base length and stroke correct for the bike it is being bastardised into?
2) Is the spring rate suitable, linkages, swingarm leverage, bike weight etc all have an influence on that.
3) Does everything clear properly and therefore not create any safety related issues through the full arc of allowable swingram movement ( on this one point alone this is where Im really at odds with ''kiwi can do'' and No 8 wire mentality as there are too many people out there with the finesse of an elephant. But also in fairness there are also those that have their act together and have more than only enough knowledge to be dangerous.
4) Is the internal valving, the piston type ( there are many )and the bypass bleed circuitry compatible or able to be cost effectively changed to suit the motion ratio that the linkage imparts to it?

Its also amazing how many people may ring up and ask ( for example )'' I bought this 1992 model Ohlins YZ250 shock real cheap and want to fit it into my 2009 YZF250'' ( Sight unseen )'' what will it cost to make it fit ( and work ) I only want to spend a couple of hundred.....'' You feel like flippantly answering ''how long is a piece of string? " or hold on Ill just go and find the batteries for my magic wand'' Of course anything is possible at a cost and you cannot precost anything sight unseen thats been to the moon and back several times. But, moreover its almost as if these punters think that time stands still and that an Ohlins shock ( or any other high quality aftermarket shock ) is just the same inside and the technology has not relentlessly progressed in the last 18 years or so. Just like oem stuff.

When you purchase an Ohlins shock secondhand off Trade Me etc it pays ( like anything ) to check that the seller is not misrepresenting what it is for. Youd be amazed how many private sellers are conmen, stuff that dealers would get taken to the cleaners for! Every Ohlins shock that is made at the factory in Stockholm has a spec code stamped into its cylinder head. The cylinder head on a shock is the main casting that everything else screws onto such as the main body tube and the reservoir tube. This applies to most Ohlins shocks and will be accurate unless it has been modified or respec'd to suit something else and has not been restamped or is a one off custom build ( and we have made many over the years here in NZ ) The spec code will consist of a two letter prefix in capitals follwed by a 4 number suffix. For example YA 7891 is a Yamaha shock for a 2008 to 10 R6, first spec supercession.

We offer a FOC service in this respect, if you are contemplating buying a secondhand Ohlins shock we ask that you get the spec number off the seller and may ask some other bits and pieces. We then can verify exactly what it is for and even within a margin of error work out if it is feasible and at what cost to fit to a different model of bike. Obviously some common sense has to prevail here, if the bikles are widly different then its highly unlikely that respec to suit is economically sensible.

As the only factory appointed Ohlins distributor to New Zealand we have exclusive and password restricted access to a Distributor website that gives us a database of spec codes and a whole host of technical info and ongoing factory updates, no one else in NZ has access without our approval.

So in answer to your questions we have the Ohlins spec cards to refer to as a baseline. In parallell to that we have our own empirical experience ( 25 years in the suspension game and 13 years with exclusive distribution and direct personal access to the Ohlins factory including their racing department who are at the forefront of MotoGP and WSBK ) We also ask you a whole load of questions in respect of your personal stats, personal speed, tyres being used and road (or circuits) predominantly ridden on.

Everyone is different and we tune the shock to the individual, as I said using the baseline setting but with modifications to suit the rider and road conditions. We get it right 95% of the time, if its not quite right we undertake to change it at no further cost excepting courier recovery fees. We pride ourself on that aspect of our business.

If the guy who says he can service your shock is not Ohlins trained and doesnt have access to that database then he is conning you, he will not be doing the job properly
I have had heat over the years for restricting access but Id rather uphold standards and too many have belied business trust.

And yes, we can for all intents and purposes ''read'' shim stacks.

Hope this all helps!

[Marmoot]

I think that guy was only asking if there is a common setup for NZ that can be applied to make a used shocks better in an easier/quicker way, or if the only way is to do a full surgery?

[Robert Taylor]

I think that guy was only asking if there is a common setup for NZ that can be applied to make a used shocks better in an easier/quicker way, or if the only way is to do a full surgery?

As I said everyone is different. Point of fact one mans meat can be another mans poison. But yes we have general experience and feel for what is required for our local roading conditions , different types of bikes and rider expectations. I embellished my answer with a whole load more ''diatribe'' to illustrate what often happens and his questions gave me that opportunity.
The main target audience of all high quality high performance aftermarket shocks is of course predominantly the first world Northern European and North American countries. Sure they have bumpy roads but the reality also is that they have a much much higher ratio of relatively smooth roads. We of course have a very high ratio of bumpy roads and bad surfaces that will place maximum challenge on the suspension. Thats where local knowledge and experience comes into play, and ITS NOT JUST ABOUT SPRING RATE.

If I may also take the opportunity here.... we have been in negotiation with Ohlins Racing AB Sweden for months. Given the weakness of the $US and that theres lot of ''dumping'' going on by US companies we have been able to negotiate a better buy price off Ohlins. AS OF RIGHT NOW WE HAVE SOME SIGNIFICANT PRICE REDUCTIONS. Allied with our local knowledge, strong record of backup service and exclusive access to Ohlins technical database that means we can overall offer a better deal than a US company or anyone parallell importing ( no backup or abysmal backup )

[Robert Taylor]

I think that guy was only asking if there is a common setup for NZ that can be applied to make a used shocks better in an easier/quicker way, or if the only way is to do a full surgery?

''Full surgery'' as you put it is of course neccessary to establish that the internal valving stacks and internal setting parts ( pistons, bleed jets, needle profiles, poppett springs ) conform to the information on the specification card and within a sensible ''bandwidth of tuning range'' from there.

[Shaun]

I believe CKT are more than capable of coming up with an answer to your shock, based on the internal shim stack, bleed, piston etc for New Zealand conditions.

As Robert has said, CKT/Ohlin's NZ stand by there brand with in house "Factory" Trained technicians!

Not people who read forums and a mate from over seas on the internet to reccomend what to do to help fix any problems.

[Odakyu-sen]

Hello Robert,

I believe my Ohlins is the proper model for the 2001 R6. You serviced it a couple of years ago. At the time, I didn't think to ask you if the shim stack, bleed, piston, etc. were "suitable for NZ." Maybe they are, maybe they aren't. I was thinking to myself that when I send the shock down to you for its next overhaul, you might check out its internals and see if they look about right for NZ.
I'm really happy with the shock, and have been for the last 8 years -- but ignorance can be bliss. I'll also have to get you to fix the hydraulic preload -- it has gradually lost all its "lifting ability" (We discussed this on this forum several months ago.)
Just out of interest, if you find out that the internals are set up for "glassy smooth roads," will I need to get a slightly heavier spring? (Am running a 70 Nmm spring, which is as light as I would want to go. The shock has never bottomed out, and it does give a really compliant ride -- I can really feel the suspension working and soaking up the bumps) (I tried a 80 Nmm previously, but it felt a little harsh.)

[Marmoot]

But yes we have general experience and feel for what is required for our local roading conditions , different types of bikes and rider expectations. I embellished my answer with a whole load more ''diatribe'' to illustrate what often happens and his questions gave me that opportunity.

Very good.

In my line of work, we specialise on business message to customer, and the key point that we often see becoming a barrier to convert audience to customers is overinformationing. Sometimes we think that offering a lot of information can be helpful to the audience in making their decision. But often the reality is it becomes overwhelming as in general those people don't have the same knowledge level as you do being in the business for a long time.

A lot of businesses have a problem translating their jargons and "industry-specific language" into English.

Just my 2c.

[Shaun]

Very good.

In my line of work, we specialise on business message to customer, and the key point that we often see becoming a barrier to convert audience to customers is overinformationing. Sometimes we think that offering a lot of information can be helpful to the audience in making their decision. But often the reality is it becomes overwhelming as in general those people don't have the same knowledge level as you do being in the business for a long time.

A lot of businesses have a problem translating their jargons and "industry-specific language" into English.

Just my 2c.



Re Overinformationing

that is something I have been saying to Robert for years

[Owl]

Re Overinformationing

that is something I have been saying to Robert for years

:confused:

Didn't he get it?

[Shaun]

:confused:

Didn't he get it?


Ha Ha, No what i was meaning by my above post is

Some times people with to much information in front of them, can actually be dangerous, as they do not fully understand what is happening when some thing is changed.

And to just read a manual, is NOT the way to learn how to set a motor bike suspension up

[CookMySock]

A lot of businesses have a problem translating their jargons and "industry-specific language" into English.It's not a bug. It's a feature.

Steve

[Katman]

It's not a bug. It's a feature.

Steve

Yeah, but no-one's interested in the chemical formula and molecular structure of the average sno-freeze.

[Robert Taylor]

Its a balance but I believe that in most cases it helps sales because it shows you are prepared to go the extra mile. Its also a point of difference in showing that we are not a faceless warehouse with many different products and are a master of none.
You also have to ( in the face of overseas internet sales and parallell importing parasites ) show many positive points of difference there too. That you are not only in it for a return but also derive satisfaction from knowing your product inside out and are very prepared to ensure that your customers are as happy as possible.
Anybody can sell suspension units, but not everybody is prepared to understand and back them up to the nth degree. To be honest I get a kick out of helping people and helping them to understand, thats a BIG point of difference to the ''Harvey Normans'' and ''Warehouses'' of this world.

[Marmoot]

There are Warehouse shops, there are helpful shops, and there are Amway/Avon reps.

Pick a balance point, Mr. Taylor. :)

Warehouse shops don't talk, don't help, pick your own stuff and pay for them.

Helpful shops answer questions when asked, offer greetings and appear happy and helpful. They don't preach, they don't overwhelm, they don't pummel people and punch them into a realisation of their desperate uninformed poor state.

And there are Amway/Avon reps with thousands of brochures, why they are better than everyone else, and why their products are superior, and why people shouldn't buy other market-garden variety, and why people should be fully informed in how to use their product, and why people should only come to them with questions, and why they have the whole range, and why they are the only authorised distributors for these products, and why getting them somewhere else may mean doom and suffering, and why.....why....why do I even need to care...

P.S.
Don't get me wrong though. I appreciate your information and find it very insightful at times.
But when I go to a shop or when I ask questions, I just don't wanna get preached. I just want answers/products/relevant information.

[AllanB]

Just quietly the entire suspension thing now is over complicated for the average rider. Knobs for this, twisty bits for that, shims, etc etc. I had to purchased a book on how to set-up your suspension from Amazon a while back so I could confidently have a fiddle and actually know what each adjustment was meant to do - and that's on a Hornet 900!

I had a twist of this, tweak of that, then got on with riding! And I think the average road rider probably does the same - very limited adjustments then gets on with riding. Consequently, cost aside I think most riders just leave the springy bits be. Which reminds me, I should probably change the fork oil - but even that requires fork removal now - add it to the winter to-do-list.

And that's the crux of it all - all that farting around and cost - probably one of the reasons most people buy an after-market pipe and stick it on instead of shelling out the same money for suspenders (that will actually make a difference to their riding) - 30 minutes with a spanner and there is an immediate physical and aural difference to the bike!

And has anyone actually purchased a new bike and had the shop set up the sag for you before you leave the showroom? You'd think that if it is that important that it would be done with you on your $15-30k purchase.

[Marmoot]

Properly suspended, sag should not occur before the age of 40

[dipshit]

I had a twist of this, tweak of that, then got on with riding! And I think the average road rider probably does the same - very limited adjustments then gets on with riding.

It's the other way around for me. Get on with riding... then if the bike is doing something I don't like or I think could be better... then I go about trying to solve it.


And has anyone actually purchased a new bike and had the shop set up the sag for you before you leave the showroom? You'd think that if it is that important that it would be done with you on your $15-30k purchase.

But quite often I would imagine setting sag correctly would involve spring changes. You can't always just go winding the bejesus out of the preload adjusters. There will be some costs factor involved... and quite frankly I wouldn't trust half the bike shops out there to go anywhere near my suspension!

[thepom]

I spoke to my mate overseas on the internet and he sorted me out fine.....lol...

[Robert Taylor]

Just quietly the entire suspension thing now is over complicated for the average rider. Knobs for this, twisty bits for that, shims, etc etc. I had to purchased a book on how to set-up your suspension from Amazon a while back so I could confidently have a fiddle and actually know what each adjustment was meant to do - and that's on a Hornet 900!

I had a twist of this, tweak of that, then got on with riding! And I think the average road rider probably does the same - very limited adjustments then gets on with riding. Consequently, cost aside I think most riders just leave the springy bits be. Which reminds me, I should probably change the fork oil - but even that requires fork removal now - add it to the winter to-do-list.

And that's the crux of it all - all that farting around and cost - probably one of the reasons most people buy an after-market pipe and stick it on instead of shelling out the same money for suspenders (that will actually make a difference to their riding) - 30 minutes with a spanner and there is an immediate physical and aural difference to the bike!

And has anyone actually purchased a new bike and had the shop set up the sag for you before you leave the showroom? You'd think that if it is that important that it would be done with you on your $15-30k purchase.

That is the perception yes and Ohlins recognised it with their TTX36 range, only 2 clickers, one for rebound and one for compression. We also do a set up manual ( that is very easy to follow and is not a copy of ''War and Peace'' ) that we will transmit to anyone that requests it

The reality sadly is that with most retail outlets they actually dont understand how to set suspension up because its actually not in the training syllabus. It wasnt when I was an apprentice back in the late 70s, it isnt now. Realistically it has become a specialised trade on its own account, youd also pretty much split the Mx suspension specialists and the road / road race suspension specialists. You just cant be everywhere.

[Robert Taylor]

Hello Robert,

I believe my Ohlins is the proper model for the 2001 R6. You serviced it a couple of years ago. At the time, I didn't think to ask you if the shim stack, bleed, piston, etc. were "suitable for NZ." Maybe they are, maybe they aren't. I was thinking to myself that when I send the shock down to you for its next overhaul, you might check out its internals and see if they look about right for NZ.
I'm really happy with the shock, and have been for the last 8 years -- but ignorance can be bliss. I'll also have to get you to fix the hydraulic preload -- it has gradually lost all its "lifting ability" (We discussed this on this forum several months ago.)
Just out of interest, if you find out that the internals are set up for "glassy smooth roads," will I need to get a slightly heavier spring? (Am running a 70 Nmm spring, which is as light as I would want to go. The shock has never bottomed out, and it does give a really compliant ride -- I can really feel the suspension working and soaking up the bumps) (I tried a 80 Nmm previously, but it felt a little harsh.)

All good! We always check the internal calibration because when we service shocks its not just oil and gas, we pull them right apart and lay out the shim stacks etc. You wont find everyone doing that but they will still say its a ''full service''. If we can make it better we will.

[Robert Taylor]

There are Warehouse shops, there are helpful shops, and there are Amway/Avon reps.

Pick a balance point, Mr. Taylor. :)

Warehouse shops don't talk, don't help, pick your own stuff and pay for them.

Helpful shops answer questions when asked, offer greetings and appear happy and helpful. They don't preach, they don't overwhelm, they don't pummel people and punch them into a realisation of their desperate uninformed poor state.

And there are Amway/Avon reps with thousands of brochures, why they are better than everyone else, and why their products are superior, and why people shouldn't buy other market-garden variety, and why people should be fully informed in how to use their product, and why people should only come to them with questions, and why they have the whole range, and why they are the only authorised distributors for these products, and why getting them somewhere else may mean doom and suffering, and why.....why....why do I even need to care...

P.S.
Don't get me wrong though. I appreciate your information and find it very insightful at times.
But when I go to a shop or when I ask questions, I just don't wanna get preached. I just want answers/products/relevant information.

Yes I hear what you are saying. There is never any intent to preach as such, just to be as helpful as possible.

This thread gave me the opportunity to state that if you purchase off a parallell importer you are in fact being short changed in many ways as they dont have the technical training ( direct from the factory ) to back the product up PROPERLY , will not have a full inventory of alternative springs and setting parts and will not be prepared to go the extra mile to set it all up for our conditions. Authorised distributors have all this, plus direct factory access, something that those who ''pick the eyes out of everything'' for their own ends do not have. That is a pet subject of mine and as it works out these people are effectively insincere.

Our new pricing regime will tend to this problem, allied with the high level of added value we always provide.

[cowpoos]

overinformationing

Its not a word...there is no mean for it!

[Odakyu-sen]

Robert, thanks for the follow-up.

Once you have riden a bike with good-quality, properly set up suspension, you will never go back to the heart (and bum) pounding, anxiety-ridden, shit-I'm-losing-it feeling that stock suspension can give you. You feel better at all speeds. Tire grip and tire life is enhanced. You don't get tired out by being beaten up by your suspension, so you stay more alert and focussed. You can maintain a higher cornering speed so you don't have to work the gearbox and brakes so much. Your whole riding style becomes smoother, gentler, faster.
Sure, it's going to cost several thousand dollars and whole lot of initial mucking around, plus you'll have to get your forks and shock regularly overhauled and properly serviced (from a very limited number of people in NZ who can do the job properly and who probably won't live in your city). The good thing is once your bike is set up, you'll hardly every alter the settings again.
Is it worth it? Yes. (But then, I would say that, wouldn't I.) All I can suggest is that you try a bike with the good stuff on and see what you think. It changed my motorcycling life forever.

[lostinflyz]

Just quietly the entire suspension thing now is over complicated for the average rider. Knobs for this, twisty bits for that, shims, etc etc. I had to purchased a book on how to set-up your suspension from Amazon a while back so I could confidently have a fiddle and actually know what each adjustment was meant to do - and that's on a Hornet 900!

I had a twist of this, tweak of that, then got on with riding! And I think the average road rider probably does the same - very limited adjustments then gets on with riding. Consequently, cost aside I think most riders just leave the springy bits be. Which reminds me, I should probably change the fork oil - but even that requires fork removal now - add it to the winter to-do-list.

And that's the crux of it all - all that farting around and cost - probably one of the reasons most people buy an after-market pipe and stick it on instead of shelling out the same money for suspenders (that will actually make a difference to their riding) - 30 minutes with a spanner and there is an immediate physical and aural difference to the bike!

And has anyone actually purchased a new bike and had the shop set up the sag for you before you leave the showroom? You'd think that if it is that important that it would be done with you on your $15-30k purchase.

Bike manufactures set up bikes for a generic spec, that will work ok in all instances. Better that than something that could hurt anyone that might ride it. Does that mean its a good setup for you? nope.

I was horrified when i went to steal a set of used tyres from the back of a m/c tyre shop. Some of them were almost brand new but had cut or worn in the most amazing ways in the tiniest bands. rather than setting sag they should require an IQ test.

[Robert Taylor]

Robert, thanks for the follow-up.

Once you have riden a bike with good-quality, properly set up suspension, you will never go back to the heart (and bum) pounding, anxiety-ridden, shit-I'm-losing-it feeling that stock suspension can give you. You feel better at all speeds. Tire grip and tire life is enhanced. You don't get tired out by being beaten up by your suspension, so you stay more alert and focussed. You can maintain a higher cornering speed so you don't have to work the gearbox and brakes so much. Your whole riding style becomes smoother, gentler, faster.
Sure, it's going to cost several thousand dollars and whole lot of initial mucking around, plus you'll have to get your forks and shock regularly overhauled and properly serviced (from a very limited number of people in NZ who can do the job properly and who probably won't live in your city). The good thing is once your bike is set up, you'll hardly every alter the settings again.
Is it worth it? Yes. (But then, I would say that, wouldn't I.) All I can suggest is that you try a bike with the good stuff on and see what you think. It changed my motorcycling life forever.

Thanks for that!

You know one of the very biggest misconceptions we hear quite often is ''Im not fast enough for Ohlins suspension" Nothing could be further from the truth but there could be more than a grain of truth that some of those that peddle the ''cheap and cheerful'' brands perpetuate that fallacy.

The reality is that although we have a heavy racing involvement most of our customers are in fact everyday road riders that want improved compliance, adjusters that do more than ''decorate'', improved tyre life, improved control, rebuildability and full knowledgable backup. Many of these customers are also well aware of the limitations of budget choices. You only get what you pay for!

With the Ohlins product ( and yes this does sound like a sales pitch but its reality ) these same customers know that the product has great residual value to resell or to trade, or if feasible to have respec'd to suit a later model or make of bike.

[Owl]

With the Ohlins product ( and yes this does sound like a sales pitch but its reality ) these same customers know that the product has great residual value to resell or to trade, or if feasible to have respec'd to suit a later model or make of bike.

That'll be my preferred choice with my next ride, now that I've been slightly educated.:yes:

[Robert Taylor]

That'll be my preferred choice with my next ride, now that I've been slightly educated.:yes:

How is everything working out on your Triumph?

[crazzed]

Hi Robert, just wondering what other options are out there. You can use my bike as a example. K6 GSXR1000 bought damaged 2.5K bike will owe me 4.5k except suspension as a dedicated track bike. Oh it still has factory steering damper to. So to put this in perspective bike=squat suspension could be mega. Ill leave it with you to sort what you think would be a real world amount to put into this. Cheers in advance.

[Robert Taylor]

Hi Robert, just wondering what other options are out there. You can use my bike as a example. K6 GSXR1000 bought damaged 2.5K bike will owe me 4.5k except suspension as a dedicated track bike. Oh it still has factory steering damper to. So to put this in perspective bike=squat suspension could be mega. Ill leave it with you to sort what you think would be a real world amount to put into this. Cheers in advance.

Please send me a brief e-mail to robert@crownkiwi.co.nz plus your phone numbers. Ill go through this Monday, I am away at Manfield tommorrow / Saturday. We have another customer we are doing K6 stuff for at the moment.

[crazzed]

Will do cheers

[Owl]

How is everything working out on your Triumph?

Light years ahead of the stock suspenders and confidence inspiring!

Front is awesome, though I may need some tweeking on the rear at some stage. Feeling a little too plush when pushed hard, but I'm aware there's a tradeoff and I do like the comfort.

Still, I'm becoming more aware of likes and dislikes and suspension will be my first upgrade for any bike in the future!!!:yes:

[Robert Taylor]

Light years ahead of the stock suspenders and confidence inspiring!

Front is awesome, though I may need some tweeking on the rear at some stage. Feeling a little too plush when pushed hard, but I'm aware there's a tradeoff and I do like the comfort.

Still, I'm becoming more aware of likes and dislikes and suspension will be my first upgrade for any bike in the future!!!:yes:


There are two things you can try independently

1) Go inwards a little on the compression adjuster ( clockwise )

2) Add a little spring preload

[Owl]

There are two things you can try independently

1) Go inwards a little on the compression adjuster ( clockwise )

2) Add a little spring preload

Cheers for that Robert! I'll give it a go, though I've been a little reluctant to fiddle so far......................now where's those stillsons:laugh:

[Rcktfsh]

And yes, we can for all intents and purposes ''read'' shim stacks.

Hope this all helps!

What about tea leaves?

[gixerracer]

Robert would like me to reply on his behalf, yes he can read tea leaves he predictaed a conservative led government in the UK, thereby putting you dirty filthy vertically disadvantged socialists in your place.[/U]
What about tea leaves?

[cowpoos]

Robert would like me to reply on his behalf, yes he can read tea leaves he predictaed a conservative led government in the UK, thereby putting you dirty filthy vertically disadvantged socialists in your place.[/U]

Bwahahahahahahahaha.....shot!!

[davebullet]

And has anyone actually purchased a new bike and had the shop set up the sag for you before you leave the showroom? You'd think that if it is that important that it would be done with you on your $15-30k purchase.

I asked that very question of a quite a well known person in the motorcycling community who sold a mate a new bike... and was told "naa, let the bike run in a bit first". I was a little surprised!

[Nonbeliever]

"naa, let the bike run in a bit first".

I hear this sort of comment quite abit, I susect from people that don't actually know what setting sag is, or how to set sag or what sag numbers to aim for.

[Rcktfsh]

Robert would like me to reply on his behalf, yes he can read tea leaves he predictaed a conservative led government in the UK, thereby putting you dirty filthy vertically disadvantged socialists in your place.[/U]

Who's been doing your scriptwriting, thats to clever a response to be original oh lofty one.

[Pussy]

Who's been doing your scriptwriting, thats to clever a response to be original oh lofty one.

You should be just concentrating on making yourself available for dwarf throwing competitions! :p

Back on topic.... your bike suspension will perform best when it's set up for YOU

[Shaun]

Please send me a brief e-mail to robert@crownkiwi.co.nz plus your phone numbers. Ill go through this Monday, I am away at Manfield tommorrow / Saturday. We have another customer we are doing K6 stuff for at the moment.


Look after this Guy Robert, He is a good customer of mine who pays fast.