Anybody tried these?

[SPP]

<img src="http://images.trademe.co.nz/photoserver/tq/58/134759358.jpg">
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Parts-for-sale/Brakes/auction-297451415.htm

Cheap and nasty... cheap and really nasty... or just cheap? Look like knock offs of knock offs but how could they cock up a lever?

[Quasievil]

nope, you first

[MIXONE]

Hmmm....
Nope don't think so.

[Quasievil]

I like these guys, top quality
http://www.powersport.co.nz/

[SPP]

I like these guys, top quality
http://www.powersport.co.nz/

Cheers for that link. Bookmarked for bling. I wasn't after shorties but they seemed cheap enough to give a go... well not really otherwise I would have bought some

[Quasievil]

Ive brought a bit of gear from here and Im very impressed with the quality of it all ......my favourite for sure

[Biggles08]

http://www.bigglesracing.co.nz (http://www.bigglesracing.co.nz/)
Cheers for that link. Bookmarked for bling. I wasn't after shorties but they seemed cheap enough to give a go... well not really otherwise I would have bought some Have a look at my site SPP..I'm an official re-seller for the TITAX levers which is used by moto GP teams and WSBK teams. I sell them to help support my racing. They are $295 A PAIR!!! any colour combo. Go to www.bigglesracing.co.nz (http://www.bigglesracing.co.nz) and click on the link 'products' then 'TITAX.'

[DEATH_INC.]

They look very much like some I got off evilbay, the quality seems decent enough and I can't break 'em so they can't be all bad. (unlike some others I've had over the years...)

[blackdog]

I'm looking at them aswell (if they can supply for the bike i want). I reckon for the spot they cost who cares?

I especifically liked this bit.


.......and let them give the best performance to you. Such brake levers are especifically manufactured for the.....

[Brian d marge]

Whats wrong with those
they Hardly broken when bike fall
and is high Quarity

and ya should be using ya flipping brakes anyway

Stephen

[SPP]

No risk to dangerous function as hardly change if falling and are remarkedly beautiful for looking.

Man looks ok for selling because customers not making trouble and talking bad from experiencing service.

Should do real clutch lever so braking without all hand can be given to me. Maybe these real, I not know. If someone have and do good news examination I can follow after or bring more money for foreign lever to be best performing.

[schrodingers cat]

how could they cock up a lever?

Oh in soooooooooooo many ways. Metalurgy (incl heat treatment), proper design (sufficient metal in the important places, no stress raisers etc), the list goes on!

But. Far be it from me to be boring.
Shiny! Super lightweight with special holes. " the best performance to you"
Cheap!

Note: CUSTOMER PLEASE INSTALL BY A SPECIALIST

Cheap!

[FastBikeGear]

The volumes of production have got so good on the US and European brands such as Titax and Pazzo that you can now have your cake and eat it without any safety risks.

You can purchase Titax and Pazzo for under $300 a set in New Zealand and get a full manufacturers warranty and local support from reputable companies such as us and Biggles racing.

[Ivan]

<img src="http://images.trademe.co.nz/photoserver/tq/58/134759358.jpg">
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Parts-for-sale/Brakes/auction-297451415.htm

Cheap and nasty... cheap and really nasty... or just cheap? Look like knock offs of knock offs but how could they cock up a lever?



Been using them for about 5 months now I get them through a personal sponsor of myne havent had any problems, Bang for buck they are good they fit they have fancy adjusters they are a decent finish of course they arn not pazzo's etc but for the price you pay they are not that bad.

People can diss regardthem all they like I may only be 20 but have been in the motorcycle industry for a while now and have some very good contacts I can tell you that Joe average goes in to Mototrcycle shop buys a OEM or aftermarket brake lever in standered design some of those are shit, but at 10 dollars what do you expect these RRP are around 100 dollars I dont pay that but can tell you that for the money I payed I expect them not to be the 100% pure bling but for what I want they are good depends how you look at it.

I know someone else who I have just scored a set for because they like myne

so in short yes they are good and as a trained mechanic I can tell you they fitted perfectly ok they dont have bearings in them like pazzos do but the actual fit itself is fine

Best place to get them is from a bike shop tho through and get the ones that come from White's

These trademe ones could be a slightly differnt animal again

[Rogue Rider]

<img src="http://images.trademe.co.nz/photoserver/tq/58/134759358.jpg">
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Parts-for-sale/Brakes/auction-297451415.htm

Cheap and nasty... cheap and really nasty... or just cheap? Look like knock offs of knock offs but how could they cock up a lever?

I have Triumph version ones and they are excellent. Not sure if these ones are as good but man they are awesome.

[FastBikeGear]

so in short yes they are good and as a trained mechanic I can tell you they fitted perfectly OK they don't have bearings in them like Pazzos do but the actual fit itself is fine

We sell Pazzo's and have them in stock. Yes the Pazzo levers are very high quality products ...but no Pazzo lever has bearings in it. The Pazzo levers use plain brass bushing inserts (and nothing wrong with that). But If you want levers with roller bearings in them then you need to go to the top end of the market... to products like the Titax levers used in MotoGP....that we also sell.

Every brake and clutch master cylinder and perch requires a different design of perch adapter. To correctly design a lever you need a sample of every master cylinder and the bike so that you can check the brake lever allows the piston to fully return back past the compensating valve. You also need to check you get a full clutch throw and release although on the clutch side this is not so much a safety issue as a quality and performance issue.

The biggest problem I have seen with some of the cheaper after market adjustable levers is that made in Asia is that the companies that make them simply don't have access to a wide range of the larger European or Japanese bikes to test their products on, and as result you get issues like this http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=274298

When brakes lock up due to the compensating valve not being able to do it's job of dealing with fluid expansion, they do it a lot more suddenly than you would think. I had it happen in a race car many years ago when someone inadvertently swapped the clutch and brake cylinder push rods over. I've also seen an incorrectly installed brake lever on a bike encounter the same problem and the rider flipped over the front wheel, which locked solid on the front straight at Hampton Downs earlier this year about 50m in front of me. (California Superbike training day). Luckily she didn't hit any road side furniture and she only broke her collar bone - and no I didn't install the lever!

Levers that do not pass industry design, testing and manufacturing standards are potentially dangerous. While someone may discover X brand of levers works well on Y bike. This provides no guarantee that their levers for Z bike will be correctly designed for another model of bike. Or it could be that they work fine on adjustment position 4 but are potentially lethal on adjustment position 3.

When you design and build a good product you are proud of it and you put your name on it. You hope that the quality of your product will then make your brand name a valuable and free marketing tool. Some where along the line of reasoning you have to ask the question, why wouldn't a manufacturer stamp their name on their product?

Come on guys it's your life we are talking about. A $100 helmet is suitable for a $100 head. The trouble with explaining this, is that a $100 head has no way of comprehending the ramifications.

Yes I do have a vested interest in selling branded safety products - but I could just as easily sell Cordura and cheap non branded levers.

BTW we do elect to sell some non brand name parts - but they aren't critical safety items.

[Ivan]

I fully agree with you and that Is why I changed my post as to were I believe you could getthese levers from that are decent,

Yes Trademe ones are probably very dodgy and I should have wrote what I said in a better way,

I will tell you the name of my brand when the packet turns up I forgot the name it does come in a proper box and has a name etc these ones come from White's they are a good lever, They are just a cheaper version also I stand corrected about the bearing I have no problem with people selling quality parts and I am not trying to take that buisiness away from you as that is against my morals on things, I am just stating the levers whites bring in are a good lever for the price you pay if you want to run something slightly cheaper.


Please do not take me the wrong way I am not meaning to upset you or take any buisness away

[FastBikeGear]

I fully agree with you and that Is why I changed my post as to were I believe you could getthese levers from that are decent,

Yes Trademe ones are probably very dodgy and I should have wrote what I said in a better way,

I will tell you the name of my brand when the packet turns up I forgot the name it does come in a proper box and has a name etc these ones come from White's they are a good lever, They are just a cheaper version also I stand corrected about the bearing I have no problem with people selling quality parts and I am not trying to take that buisiness away from you as that is against my morals on things, I am just stating the levers whites bring in are a good lever for the price you pay if you want to run something slightly cheaper.


Please do not take me the wrong way I am not meaning to upset you or take any buisness away


No problem.

You help provide a valuable well balanced and well reasoned discussion.

The neat thing is that there are a variety of good quality options out there to choose from (as well as the other stuff) and the competition makes business fun and challenging as well as benefiting every motorcyclist.


Look forward to catching up sometime.

Liam Venter

[Ivan]

No problem.

You help provide a valuable well balanced and well reasoned discussion.

The neat thing is that there are a variety of good quality options out there to choose from (as well as the other stuff) and the competition makes business fun and challenging as well as benefiting every motorcyclist.


Look forward to catching up sometime.

Liam Venter


Cheers mate,

I just wanted to clear that incase anyone looking in to this discussion thought I was trying to be a prick.
I like how there are so many brands out there but would advise people like in my very first post to get them through a proper dealer like whites or someone asthen also if you do have problems with them you can report it to them and they can then have the problem ammended straight away by either removing the product from sale or similar (if it is a serius fault)

Trademe is a good place for picking bikes up but I would not buy these levers through there but the ones I use are a knock off 100% I admit that but I brought myne through my Sponsor PFR Motorcycles and I know he got them through White's for me that way I know if they were to be bad fitting and dangerous I could report them back to White's themselves but I have to say I am impressed with them they are more o Bling OEM lever than anything else they do have a fair ammount of detail on them tho might have to get some pictures for you guys

Cheers,


Ivan Juggins

[SPP]

... Every brake and clutch master cylinder and perch requires a different design of perch adapter. To correctly design a lever you need a sample of every master cylinder and the bike so that you can check the brake lever allows the piston to fully return back past the compensating valve.

... When brakes lock up due to the compensating valve not being able to do it's job of dealing with fluid expansion, they do it a lot more suddenly than you would think.

Hmmm, how to know if the actuator pin seat is set far enough back the allow correct working of the piston/valve? a) Known product or b) trial and error? ... I'm keen to give things a go but surprise endo... ummmm

Come on guys it's your life we are talking about. A $100 helmet is suitable for a $100 head. The trouble with explaining this, is that a $100 head has no way of comprehending the ramifications.

To be honest I first thought you were scaremongering but reading again got me very interested in my front brakes!

The cylinder (through actuator pin) is partially compressed when the lever is installed. I know this because I ran out to the shed and pulled it on and off about eight times checking. The truth of the matter is I 'll only know if it's a problem when it becomes one… under load, at speed. Bugger.

Cheers for the post dude.


[through up some pics]

[slowpoke]

When brakes lock up due to the compensating valve not being able to do it's job of dealing with fluid expansion, they do it a lot more suddenly than you would think.

Yep, been there done that! Standing in the middle of the track next to your bike as the National Superbike field fly out of the preceding corner towards you is not the place you want to find out why that lever was so cheap, but find out I did. Gawd I hate bike racing.

[FastBikeGear]

The cylinder (through actuator pin) is partially compressed when the lever is installed. I know this because I ran out to the shed and pulled it on and off about eight times checking.

WARNING!

What you describe is not good. The pin MUST NOT compress the piston when it is installed. There should always be free play in the lever before the pin begins to compress the piston. All brake master cylinders/lever mechanisms are designed from the factory with some free play. Without free play you have no way of knowing whether the piston is returning past the point where it FULLY uncovers the compensating valve. Riding it to discover if it is safe is not a good idea. I have never ever seen a brake system from a factory that does not have some very small amount of free play in the lever for safety.

It may be fine on one day but the next day things metal/pads/seals/brake lines may have moved/expanded 0.01 mm and it may not be safe.

You should get this checked by an experienced mechanic immediately. I would suggest that you ask them to look at grinding down that pin so you have some free play or bin those levers.

As per my previous posts in this thread I declare an vested interest in this topic.

[Ivan]

WARNING!

What you describe is not good. The pin MUST NOT compress the piston when it is installed. There should always be free play in the lever before the pin begins to compress the piston. All brake master cylinders/lever mechanisms are designed from the factory with some free play. Without free play you have no way of knowing whether the piston is returning past the point where it FULLY uncovers the compensating valve. Riding it to discover if it is safe is not a good idea. I have never ever seen a brake system from a factory that does not have some very small amount of free play in the lever for safety.

It may be fine on one day but the next day things metal/pads/seals/brake lines may have moved/expanded 0.01 mm and it may not be safe.

You should get this checked by an experienced mechanic immediately. I would suggest that you ask them to look at grinding down that pin so you have some free play or bin those levers.

As per my previous posts in this thread I declare an invested interest.


Yip you dont want it compressing allright also be very careful if it is ground because you could also weaken it causing more problems