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View Full Version : Motorcycling in Rarotonga - In praise of the humble GN



STJim
7th July 2010, 17:46
In September last year, we received an invitation to our nephew Tony’s wedding in Rarotonga. We duly made our bookings for four nights effectively, three and a half days. I subsequently found myself in trouble with my wife for not having booked for long enough.

Travelling to Rarotonga, you cross the International Date Line. We left New Zealand at 8.45am on the Wednesday, 9 June 2010and arrived in Rarotonga at 2.30pm on the Tuesday, 8 June 2010. Rarotonga is 22 hours behind us on the previous day.

We were met at the Rarotonga International Airport by my wife, Heather’s sister, Raelyn who had a rental car and we were whisked off to our accommodation at the Rarotongan Resort.

We were aware that everyone traveled in Rarotonga by motor scooter and had intended to hire a scooter or two. We noticed when we checked into the Rarotongan that there was a car and scooter hire place just up the road from our accommodation. No time to check it out that evening as it was off to meet everyone else who was up for the wedding for a bar-be-que at a hired villa near the hospital.

Next morning we had breakfast at the resort. A lovely buffet breakfast which was included in our accommodation costs. We then wandered down to the hire place. Unfortunately, there were no motor scooters available. We could have had electric bikes, but didn’t really fancy the same. We enquired and were provided with details of other motorcycle hire places. We phoned Island Motorcycle Hire which was about 5kms away at Arorangi. We were asked if we could drive clutched motorcycles and were told that they had two 125 motorcycles for hire and even better, they would come and pick us up.


We were picked up and found that the motorcyles were ubiquitous GN125’s in a more than slightly used condition. We duly completed all the paper work, paid $2.00 each for temporary licences which lasted 24 hours. We were told if we came back the following day and paid another $2.00 each, our temporary licences would extend another day. This was to save us going to the Police station and paying $20.00 for a Rarotongan licence. Everyone requires a Rarotongan licence, even to drive a car requires a Rarotongan licence. If you have a New Zealand licence and a New Zealand motorcycle licence as well as a car licence, you don’t have to sit a test, otherwise they are supposed to watch you ride up and down the road, use the indicators and turn the motorcycle around.

Helmets are not compulsory in Rarotonga, however, we didn’t feel safe riding without helmets and for an extra $2.00 each, we hired open faced helmets. Fully equipped, we set off.

Rarotonga is 30kms around. There is one coastal ring road and on parts of the island, there is an inner ring road as well. There is a coastal plain of about 1-2kms where most of the people live and where most crops are grown. The interior is mountainous. The island is volcanic. The entire island is 67.2sq kms.

Our first stop was at a petrol station. Unleaded 91 was $2.30 a litre. As we were leaving the petrol station, it started to rain. As we headed around towards the harbour we saw a pearl shop and looking for somewhere to get out of the rain, stopped in. It rained for some considerable time and finally, we set off again through the town and then stopped by Trader Jacks, a restaurant/bar establishment of some fame in Rarotonga. We then walked around the shops, had a poke around and then carried on in a clockwise direction around the island.

Coming around to the Muri area, we began to look for where Peter and Rae’s establishment was. They had hired a holiday home up a hill somewhere. The first drive we went up we struck a blank, the second drive, we struck it lucky and

there they were. We were invited to stay for a bar-be-que, however, it was necessary for me to go back to the Rarotongan for a block of cheese which we had brought up from New Zealand for them. Dairy products are a ferocious price in Rarotonga. I drew the short straw of riding the 11kms back round the rest of the road to the resort and then returning back with the cheese.

The next day was the wedding. In the morning we went back round into town for a look at the museum. I have always liked to look at museums, however, the Cook Island museum was a huge disappointment. There were a few artifacts, canoes and pictures, but one would have thought to have seen considerably more. Then it was back to the resort to change and on our way to the wedding. Standard issue dress being shorts, shirt sleeves and sandels. From Peter and Rae’s, Heather caught a ride by car, I decided to ride the motorcycle.

The wedding took place on the beach behind the villas where the bride and groom had been staying along with the bride’s parents. The reception that evening was at Tamarind House. The food was superb and the entertainment for the evening was a local fire dance troupe.

As I had ridden and Heather had caught a ride, she ended up getting a shuttle back to our accommodation and we were left with one motorcycle. The arrangement was that the next day we were going to go with Peter and Rae and the rest of their party and walk the cross island track. We doubled up on the GN and rode to the start of the track, then Peter brought our other GN around for us and the rest of their troop came by car.

It was an extremely steep hike to the centre, a spot known as ‘The Needle’. The others were completing the rest of the track but we returned to our motorcycles after the climb to the top. By then it was time to return the cycles to the hire shop at Arorangi.

The hire shop dropped us back to our accommodation where we spent the rest of the day and evening and waking at the ungodly hour of 2.30am to catch our shuttle bus to be at the airport for 3.30am to catch our flight back to Auckland.

GN125s in Rarotonga are ideal. The speed limit is 50kms with a helmet, 40kms without. The road is a double width tarseal. It is also well patched. We have in the past, owned a GN250 but have never ridden 125s. Frankly, we were surprised how well these little motorcycles pulled. The treatment these machines receive in Rarotonga isn’t good. There was motorcycle parking at the resort, but, it wasn’t covered. The little bikes had some rust. The maintenance wasn’t wonderful either. One of the bikes we hired the first day was missing a mirror and the back tyre would probably not have been legal in New Zealand. Neither motorcycle had working speedos. We returned the second day to extend our licences and had hoped that there may be a mirror available. There wasn’t but the bike was swapped for a newer one, this time with a working speedo.

A number of the other hire machines were Yamaha 125, automatics. We understood these performed very well and were more suitable for pillioning. There were also a number of no name Chinese brands for hire as well.

Rarotonga is an enjoyable place to visit. The currency is New Zealand dollars. Accommodation can be a little expensive. Food prices are generally on a par with New Zealand if you are happy to eat seafood. Meat dishes are dearer. Dairy products are a considerable price. Bar prices at the resort were akin to New Zealand bearing in mind there is no GST payable in Rarotonga.

The biggest surprise we had was on leaving Rarotonga was to be slugged $55.00 each departure tax.

mattian
7th July 2010, 21:02
wow..... reading all that hurt my brain.

GO THE MIGHTY GN !! woohoo :scooter:

p.dath
8th July 2010, 08:01
You should post this on your blog. BLOGs are quite good to share experience or knowledge. The forums are good to ask questions if you want to know something. :)

STJim
8th July 2010, 13:19
You should post this on your blog. BLOGs are quite good to share experience or knowledge. The forums are good to ask questions if you want to know something. :)

I have yet to set up a blog

Jantar
8th July 2010, 13:35
You should post this on your blog. BLOGs are quite good to share experience or knowledge. The forums are good to ask questions if you want to know something. :)
I enjoyed reading the report. This section is for The ride/Tour report, and it is motorcycle related. Personally I almost never read blogs, but I do look in here for tour reports.

Maha
8th July 2010, 14:40
Cap on backwards....helmet Island stylez.
Did ya get to 'Whatever'? bar and grill.

Highlander
12th July 2010, 17:56
I enjoyed reading the report. This section is for The ride/Tour report, and it is motorcycle related. Personally I almost never read blogs, but I do look in here for tour reports.

Me Too.


I have yet to set up a blog

Me Too, given that I'm not bothered reading Blogs, I can't see the point setting one up.

We really enjoyed our week zipping around on scooters in Rarotonga - go tot keep an eye out for the dogs roaming all over the place. Managed to hit one and was really lucky to stay upright, then the next day had a near miss with another.
We'd be quite happy to go back aside from the "awfull lot of wold to see, and limited funding to go see it" factor, even so it is too early to rule it out entirely.

vindy500
12th July 2010, 18:22
The wife and I enjoyed our time there on one of those yamaha 125 scooters, went fine for the ~50km speed limit. Darn that departure tax though.

STJim
13th July 2010, 14:00
Cap on backwards....helmet Island stylez.
Did ya get to 'Whatever'? bar and grill.

Had a wander round Trader Jack's If that's what you are referring to. Not all that impressed

Waxxa
13th July 2010, 14:11
I wonder if ACC picks up the bill for accidents on m/bikes over there as well and adds them to our stats...

Maha
13th July 2010, 14:15
Had a wander round Trader Jack's If that's what you are referring to. Not all that impressed

No I wasn't, Trader Jacks is crap agreed, I didnt eat what I ordered there. 'Whatever' is close to TJ's and theres also a place by the boat ramp just before Avarua, awesome feed and very cheap.

Maha
13th July 2010, 14:16
I wonder if ACC picks up the bill for accidents on m/bikes over there as well and adds them to our stats...

They call em' tourist Tattoo's in Raro Tony..... muffler burn.....:shifty:

STJim
13th July 2010, 15:13
I wonder if ACC picks up the bill for accidents on m/bikes over there as well and adds them to our stats...

No NZ ACC doesn't cover you in Raro. Bearing in mind that the speed limit is 50 km's a major damage as a result of an "off" is unlikely.
Cheers

spacemonkey
13th July 2010, 16:20
lol Funny I was in Raro at the same time for a wedding!
Stayed at Moana Sands Hotel, we booked out the entire hotel for the week. Amazing location had the beach to ourselves in the middle of the marine reserve.
I just got myself a scroter was all you needed around the Island given the roads and the speed limit, plus I wanted the underseat storage it had. :yes:
quite tempted to make Raro an annual midwinter getaway.

Oh I recommend the boat "Sea hunter" if you want to go fishing, run by an ex christchurch lad and one of the very few boats that let you keep the catch. I had a great time going after Tuna, the big ones put up an awesome fight! And I can see why the Japs go nuts over fresh Tuna sashimi now, fresh as fresh Tuna is amazing to eat!

shafty
15th July 2010, 06:44
Good write up Jim, very imformative and factual. Has your Wife ridden much before? How did she enjoy the bike thing?

CrazyFrog
15th July 2010, 07:39
The ATGATT police would have a field day in Raro!
Most peeps don't wear helmets due being too hot most of the time, and standard attire is t-shirt, shorts and jandals. This doesn't bother me going helmetless, I've been to Raro 6 times now, and will happily cruise around there on a scooter (hell, the island is only 30km around), but I prefer to wear sneakers at least, I trust my riding enough and have learnt to watch for the normal potential hazzards, dogs, pigs chickens and muppet tourists pulling out onto the road without paying too much attention.
Every time I've been there, I've seen some noob wearing Honda Rash as the locals also fondly call it, just too many inexperienced riders hire scoots and come a gutsa on surface gravel, or hit wandering livestock.
When in Rome as they say, do what the locals do, but don't leave your road sense at home.
Love it.:scooter:

Swoop
20th July 2010, 12:42
I take it that you didn't bump into "the road crew" that looks after the tarseal? The dotted white line is hand-painted by a bloke with a paintbrush and a large stencil.
What a job!

STJim
21st July 2010, 11:33
I take it that you didn't bump into "the road crew" that looks after the tarseal? The dotted white line is hand-painted by a bloke with a paintbrush and a large stencil.
What a job!

Why am I not surprised. I did see the road patching crew at work. Doing the job with shovels. They did have a truck.

Crim
21st July 2010, 22:54
I enjoyed reading the report. This section is for The ride/Tour report, and it is motorcycle related. Personally I almost never read blogs, but I do look in here for tour reports.

Me 3 or 4 or whatever it is up to now

skippa1
17th October 2010, 19:23
:yes: Ahhh sweet memories of warm breeze in the face, the smell of tropical flowers......great place for a break.

vifferman
17th October 2010, 19:31
:yes: Ahhh sweet memories of warm breeze in the face, the smell of tropical flowers......great place for a break.
Kewl.
I'll be off there this Friday for a few days then. :yes:

Bass
18th October 2010, 11:27
Went to Raro (8 of us) and then out to Aitutake for 5 days. Glorious spot.
All hired a bike each (125 stepthru's). Immediately became the island's largest bikie gang and got to be quite well known.
Brother in law and I took our bikes up the walking track to the trig station on the top of the island. The track is all loose pea sized pummice, 50 mm deep in places.
Getting up was interesting.
Getting back down was terrifying - don't think the back wheel did a single rotation in the first 100 meters.

vifferman
26th October 2010, 18:40
Whelp, I went, I scrotered, :scooter: and I'm now a convert to NOTGATT (NoneOfTheGear, AllOfThe Time). It was rather liberating, actual. Especially riding along in the rain.
I must confess here that I wasn't really wearing no safety gear - I had a pair of Bolle sunnies on, to keep the rain'n'bugs'n'locals outta my eyes. The rest of the gear was IslandStyles: shorts, shirt, sandals.
Rarotonga rocks!:woohoo:
And the locals are awesome: the friendliest people in the world, I reckons. :yes:
Scrotering? Hmmm...
While it made tons of sense, in a place where the longest road is 30km, and you just go around in a somewhat left-hand (or right-hand) circle (or if on the bus, clockwise or anticlockwise), and is the second most efficient transport next to a treadlycyle when you're paying $3.66/litre for dinosaurjuice, I didn't really reckon the scroter I had. I thought it was just riding it two-up, with the cameralady/pilionist/porcupine/accountant on the back, but when I had a ride by meself, it still handled just as crappy. Nothing like a real bike, y'know. My vague aspirations of buying one for communtering on have kinda been peed on by my one day jaunt.
Ah weeelll....

I had a bit of trouble adapting to IslandTime too; too long living in D'Auckland made it hard for me to just chillax and cruise at 40km/h or thereabouts. The fastest I got to see on the speedo was 140km/h, but that was just the speedo needle whizzing hopefully up the stop every time the key was turned on. I dunno how fast the Yamahaha could be wrung out to, but due to the aforementioned handling, I had no real desire to find out.

spacemonkey
26th October 2010, 18:44
lol Yeah awesome place I loved it.... could almost see myself retiring there, not yet though as I think at this stage of my life I'd find it just a bit tooo quiet for more than a week or so.

when the speed limit is 50 for the whole island (40 if you don't have a helmet) does it really matter how the bike handles?

vifferman
26th October 2010, 18:52
does it really matter how the bike handles?
Well, no; I guess not. It was just kinda unnerving, especially on gravel. I guess iffen I'd ridden it more than a few hours I wouldn't even notice. I thought maybe it was underinflated tyres, but I think it's just the whole scroter dynamic, plus really crappy suspension.

skippa1
16th January 2011, 14:22
Booked again for this year....yee haa:bleh:

spacemonkey
16th January 2011, 17:47
Lucky bugger!
If ya go out game fishing I recommend "sea hunter", it's one of the few boats that let you keep your catch... Man nuthin beats fresh fresh uber fresh Tuna!
After heading out with sea hunter I can see why the Japs go nuts over the stuff.... 0% resemblance to the shit we get in a can here in NZ!
The skipper/part owner is an ex Christchurch surf lifeguard. :niceone:

skippa1
16th January 2011, 19:39
I might, I used to skipper tuna boats so I am a bit "take it or leave it" about tuna. Just looking forward to doing 5/8s of fuck all...:woohoo: