Log in

View Full Version : Waddaya reckon's wrong?



FROSTY
14th July 2010, 18:10
A late model suzuki four cylinder was running perfectly.
Due to a brain fart it had a zero km/h lay down. Just enough to bust the ball end off of the clutch lever but nothing else.
Now its a no go.
Symptoms are.--F1 is flashing away happilly on the dash.No Neutral light.the fuel light is on (plenty of fuel in the tank)
There is no sound of the fuel pump working but the normal tiny injector chirp has happened.
A propper diagnosis is happening but I figured it'd be fun to see how accurate the KB guesswork can be.

Katman
14th July 2010, 18:18
Tip over sensor?

bsasuper
14th July 2010, 18:35
Tip over sensor?

Say so, needs to be reset

blackdog
14th July 2010, 18:38
yup. plug-in, re-boot

bogan
14th July 2010, 18:44
I figured it'd be fun to see how accurate the KB guesswork can be.

yeh she's fucked, them suzi's arent made to lie down silly!

seriously though, any chance some wiring got damaged in the drop? cos i got no idea how them fandangled ecu's work, I've never owned a bike in the same decade it was made :bleh:

slofox
14th July 2010, 18:51
yeh she's fucked, them suzi's arent made to lie down silly!

seriously though, any chance some wiring got damaged in the drop? cos i got no idea how them fandangled ecu's work, I've never owned a bike in the same decade it was made :bleh:

Wot 'e said. Go buy a new one.


BUT. It sounds electrickimical to me...

SPP
14th July 2010, 18:51
"Ghetto dealer switch" (http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=174828) point to anything?

C14 - THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
C15 - ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR
C21 - INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR
C22 - ATMOSPHERIC PRESSURE SENSOR
C23 - TIPOVER SENSOR
C24 - IGNITION SIGNAL #1
C25 - IGNITION SIGNAL #2
C26 - IGNITION SIGNAL #3
C27 - IGNITION SIGNAL #4
C28 - SECONDARY THROTTLE VALVE ACTUATOR
C29 - SECONDARY THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
C30 - SECONDARY THROTTLE CONTROL UNIT
C31 - GEAR POSITION SENSOR
C32 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #1
C33 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #2
C34 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #3
C35 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #4
C41 - FUEL PUMP CONTROL SYSTEM
C42 - IGNITION SWITCH SIGNAL
C46 - EXHAUST CONTROL VALVE ACTUATOR (1000 ONLY)

caseye
14th July 2010, 18:57
I've got a sore ead! ya had to ask didn'tcha Frosty.
LOL most likely the fall over sensor but could be so many things nowadays
Hope you find out soon and get back riding the silly bloody thing.

FROSTY
14th July 2010, 19:13
"Ghetto dealer switch" (http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=174828)point to anything?

C14 - THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
C15 - ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR
C21 - INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR
C22 - ATMOSPHERIC PRESSURE SENSOR
C23 - TIPOVER SENSOR
C24 - IGNITION SIGNAL #1
C25 - IGNITION SIGNAL #2
C26 - IGNITION SIGNAL #3
C27 - IGNITION SIGNAL #4
C28 - SECONDARY THROTTLE VALVE ACTUATOR
C29 - SECONDARY THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
C30 - SECONDARY THROTTLE CONTROL UNIT
C31 - GEAR POSITION SENSOR
C32 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #1
C33 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #2
C34 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #3
C35 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #4
C41 - FUEL PUMP CONTROL SYSTEM
C42 - IGNITION SWITCH SIGNAL
C46 - EXHAUST CONTROL VALVE ACTUATOR (1000 ONLY)


Is there a C code for-- f##wit owner dropped bike off paddock stand 1 minute after taking delivery??

FROSTY
14th July 2010, 19:14
Tip over sensor?
My first thought but aparently it resets seconds after being stood back upright

Katman
14th July 2010, 19:29
My first thought but aparently it resets seconds after being stood back upright

Unless it's stuck in it's lie down position.

SPP
14th July 2010, 19:39
Is there a C code for-- f##wit owner dropped bike off paddock stand 1 minute after taking delivery??

in the advanced options

R6_kid
14th July 2010, 19:46
Unless it's stuck in it's lie down position.

xLT8WZJNUgk

R6_kid
14th July 2010, 19:51
Try undoing the battery terminals. But yeah, as weird as it sounds give it a good shake (but don't drop it).

imdying
15th July 2010, 09:26
Just trip the dealer mode and read the code, doesn't get any easier than that for an initial diagnosis!

DEATH_INC.
15th July 2010, 09:53
Yep, those tip over sensors stick, give 'er the bash and that should fix it.

imdying
15th July 2010, 10:06
Someone posted the internals of one at one stage... I think it might have been in the racing thread?

porky
15th July 2010, 14:42
Give it a bash? good one. They are electronic and cost a fortune for what they are and cannot be by passed. Turn on ignition and place a screw driver or something metal against them and draw the steel down. There is a steel disc inside and its magnetised with the 12V thats feed thru it. If ya racing and cant afford a new ign module (they dont need the return signal to operate) , the quick fix was to pop the lid and squirt silicon on top of the disc (to hold it down) then glue the unit back up. (but i didnt tell you that ok) The low voltage signal goes back to the ignition module.
Yup pull the codes, then reset. Make sure you short out the CORRECT WIRES,
Try putting it in neutral? and or
Clutch lever took more of a pounding than you say, dont know your bike but have you got wires comin out of the clutch lever or a micro switch attached to it??

While you are at it check the slow speed detection switch, this activates the landing gear prior to coming to a stand still. They have a tendancy to fail for all sorts of reasons.

imdying
15th July 2010, 15:04
They are electronicNo, electro mechanical.

and cost a fortune for what they areAll bikes are like that though.

and cannot be bypassedSure they can :yes:

p.dath
15th July 2010, 15:29
Is this one of those trick brain teaser questions where everyone overlooks the obvious answer?

Is it still lying down on the ground? :)

caseye
15th July 2010, 19:15
Is this one of those trick brain teaser questions where everyone overlooks the obvious answer?

Is it still lying down on the ground? :)

LOL, poor ol Frosty can't get int Up, um back up! sorry fFosty, couldn't resist, nice intro there p.dath.

porky
15th July 2010, 21:01
No, electro mechanical.
Sure they can :yes:

With out hyjacking this thread do you know a way of by passing a hall effects type switch? I know you can simply splice the power feed and return on the earlier types that simply make or break. Are you suggesting the same method and feed 12 V back to the ignition? Be keen to know as i was told it cant be done.

kewwig
15th July 2010, 21:08
Have a look at the clutch lever microswitch. You've probably knocked the connection loose going over

breakaway
15th July 2010, 21:14
If it says "CHEC" on the dash,

<img src='http://iforce.co.nz/i/4zr4jprw.png'/>

then it means something silly is stopping it from starting (i.e. kill switch on, bike in gear + stand down, or something like that). If the FI light is flashing it means the ECU has an error code in it. Put it into dealer mode and read it.

I also heard from someone that to reset the tip switch, you need to take the key out of the ignition, walk back a few meters (so that the transponder in the igniton can't read the key anymore) and then bring it back, an that supposedly resets it.

Alternatively, pull the battery terminals, squeeze the brakes to drain the last ounces of juice from the system and hook it back up.

jonbuoy
16th July 2010, 10:11
With out hyjacking this thread do you know a way of by passing a hall effects type switch? I know you can simply splice the power feed and return on the earlier types that simply make or break. Are you suggesting the same method and feed 12 V back to the ignition? Be keen to know as i was told it cant be done.

Hall effect is pretty much a solid state reed switch which is just a break or make output, ouput will either be to ground or 12V. Wouldn´t do it on a bike in warranty though, jumpering it through a 0.5/1K resistor one way or the other should be fairly safe.

FROSTY
18th July 2010, 17:00
And the winner is ------- The C42 was flashing. (ignition switch) A peer down the wires and nothing odvious. That nice bloke from Moto Dynamix turned up (yea yea well Shaun can be nice sometimes) and lifted the tank and airbox out and there it was. One
wire from the loom to the connector for the ignition barrel was broken off.
At some point in the bikes past it had had a liedown and the wire had been shortened.
I'm actually pretty stoked that it happened where and when it did. It cost me a clutch lever but I'd much rather that than spend an entire trackdayor raceday sitting watching other guys out havin fun.

caseye
18th July 2010, 17:08
Pleased to hear it was something simple and fixable there Frosty.A man can't be sitting idle at a tack day! Nope not never.

Gremlin
19th July 2010, 19:01
A man can't be sitting idle at a tack day! Nope not never.
I'd love to be idle at the track... but then the word marshall probably changes things :innocent: