To Speed Triple or not Speed Triple

[davebullet]

I took my first test ride on a Speed Triple yesterday. It was a bad idea. I've put it off knowing if I liked the bike, I'd want to just ride it home.

Interestingly, I had envisaged the bike excelling the SV650 in all areas. What I found is the step up from a 250 to the SV was a lot more than I felt going to the Speed Triple. The good thing is the Speed fit like a hand cover. I was totally at home in the first 5 minutes.

Things I noticed....
- Speedy is nearly as bumpy over rough surfaces as the SV. This was most suprising as I expected a plusher ride... but of course that isn't what a Speed triple is about
- The engine goes mental at about 4 - 5krpm. This is a good thing. It means it can happily chug along below or give you a cardio workout above.
- The brembo brakes make the SV's feel like a sponge is doing the job. They have lovely bite and effortless application
- The Metzler Sportec M3 (?) tyres heated up nicely - even for a mild mannered cornerer like me on a cool day
- Speedy feels much more planted during the corners. Bumps which would cause a bit of headshake on the SV weren't apparent. I put it down to the bigger forks, better suspension and increased weight
- Speedy wasn't as flickable, but could be rider technique / learning to turn her in effectively
- The gearbox literally clunks. Not a negative - call it "gear change aural reinforcement". There is a big movement required to go from first to second. I'd need to adjust the lever down a bit otherwise I'm asking my foot to bend in a direction it wasn't designed to do
- Seat height higher. I can get both feet flat on the ground, but on uneven surfaces Id need to be careful (I'm about 5'10" give or take an inch)
- Well made
- Exhaust note quite a bit different to the VTwin of the SV
- Radiator fan quite noisy at idle / waiting at the lights
- Bloody lovely looking bike (burnt gloss orange)

My dilemma is I can get a good deal on the new bike. My dilemma is because I am trying to justify in my own mind whether I as a rider can use all she has to offer, but also justify whether it is worth 3+ times the used value of my SV650.

If I didn't have the SV650 - the decision to buy would be an immediate yes. This either tells me I've become attached to the SV, it suits my riding style well, or the SV is a really good lilttle bike.

[Gubb]

Don't be a pussy. Get one!

[Latte]

Buy It Now :D

[Headbanger]

You have already passed the point of no return, No use stressing about it now, Buy it.

or

Deny yourself one of lifes great pleasures.

Your call.

The more you ride em, the better they get.My bike blows my mind everytime I ride it, Slip into the zone so easy and then we fly.

And when I say zone I mean enjoyment, not hell bent for leather speed, and we I say fly I mean...ah fuck,whatever, I just don't mean doing supersonic speeds to attain the enjoyment contained within..

[ukusa]

Don't be a pussy. Get one!

what he said :yes:

[davebullet]

Jap bikes just don't have the x factor. The SV is functional but boring.

I just think at the price, for a brand new bike..... it's just too hard to resist......I hate sensibility

[sinned]

I changed from a SV1000s to a 1050 Speedy. It was such a difference in handling on bumpy surfaces and the speedy motor runs and pulls so smoothly from idle.

Some days I wish I hadn't sold it and I may get another. Buy it - you will love it.

Here is my blog on the speedy (http://hayabusarider.blogspot.com/2007_09_01_archive.html).

[davebullet]

I changed from a SV1000s to a 1050 Speedy. It was such a difference in handling on bumpy surfaces and the speedy motor runs and pulls so smoothly from idle.

Some days I wish I hadn't sold it and I may get another. Buy it - you will love it.

Here is my blog on the speedy (http://hayabusarider.blogspot.com/2007_09_01_archive.html).

A great blog! I'm trying to catchup to the point where (and why) you traded it in for a 'Busa.

Comfort wise, although I was only on the '10 speedy for 45 mins, it seemed like a better standard seat than the SV. Did you end up buying a gel seat for the ST3? Seemed like you did from your blog.

[HenryDorsetCase]

Keep the SV, strip it and go racing in protwins or F3.

buy the Speed Triple.

I am in a similar quandry about a Street Triple R for $15k on le speziale at mo

[sinned]

A great blog! I'm trying to catchup to the point where (and why) you traded it in for a 'Busa.

Comfort wise, although I was only on the '10 speedy for 45 mins, it seemed like a better standard seat than the SV. Did you end up buying a gel seat for the ST3? Seemed like you did from your blog.

I got the seat fixed by Rider Seats http://www.trimit.co.nz/
They did a great job and at a good price.

Story on Busa is there - I decided I needed a fairing for the longer rides.

[davebullet]

Keep the SV, strip it and go racing in protwins or F3.

buy the Speed Triple.

I am in a similar quandry about a Street Triple R for $15k on le speziale at mo

The deals are great. The Street Triple for $13k and R for $15k - great value. I think the Daytona is also $15k. I'm glad Triumph have rocks in their heads :yes:

[davebullet]

I got the seat fixed by Rider Seats http://www.trimit.co.nz/
They did a great job and at a good price.

Story on Busa is there - I decided I needed a fairing for the longer rides.

Thanks for the link. Was the 'Busa new? Did you use the same run in technique for the engine? Did you feel it made a difference to the ST3?

(Link for other readers so they know wha the fuck I'm on about: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm )

[Scouse]

Just buy it. Im on my second Speed Triple just about to trade up to number 3 now

[Urano]

mmhhh...
great bike, no doubt.

actually, because of my believes about displacement i'd go rather for a street kitted, but if you're doing the change to feel something "consistently" more on the engine side you could end up without the clue...

so i'd go for the street, but you'll go for the speed.
now let's do it! ;) :niceone:

[sinned]

Thanks for the link. Was the 'Busa new? Did you use the same run in technique for the engine? Did you feel it made a difference to the ST3?

(Link for other readers so they know wha the fuck I'm on about: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm )

The Busa was a shop demo with only a few kms. It was run in by http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/87758-My-take-on-the-GSX1300R-K8?p=1842900#post1842900 . I would not be brave enough to run in a Busa the way the motor should be bedded in. Needless to say it runs beautify.

Re the Speed Triple it ran well, used no oil, and I can only believe following the run in procedure was right. As far as running it in correctly this must be done in the first few kms. If the motor is nursed for the first 50 -100 kms the damage is done. The best you can hope for is the mechanic gave it a good strop in the road test after assembly.

[Stirts]

I took my first test ride on a Speed Triple yesterday.

I was totally at home in the first 5 minutes.


Jap bikes just don't have the x factor. The SV is functional but boring.

I just think at the price, for a brand new bike..... it's just too hard to resist......I hate sensibility

Sounds to me like you have already made your mind up mister ;)


Don't be a pussy. Get one!

What this very wise man said!!!!

I went from the ER6 to my Speedy and I don't regret it all!!! It has taken me a wee while to get used to the weight, and the slightly different riding style - but that bike is sexiness personified and I just love riding it. Can I, as a rider use all she has to offer? - hell no - but I am sure as hell going to enjoy learning how to!!!

JUST FARKING BUY IT!!!

[davebullet]

The Busa was a shop demo with only a few kms. It was run in by http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/87758-My-take-on-the-GSX1300R-K8?p=1842900#post1842900 . I would not be brave enough to run in a Busa the way the motor should be bedded in. Needless to say it runs beautify.

Re the Speed Triple it ran well, used no oil, and I can only believe following the run in procedure was right. As far as running it in correctly this must be done in the first few kms. If the motor is nursed for the first 50 -100 kms the damage is done. The best you can hope for is the mechanic gave it a good strop in the road test after assembly.

Thanks for that. Apparently it is still crated up. I'll inform the dealer about what I want to be done to it when they run it up for the 2nd time (1st I'm assuming was at the factory when they tested the rev limiter and each gear) :devil2:

I read all about it and related procedures. Also people's experience on thespeedtriple.com using the technique. Two on their reported a beautiful running engine with no oil burning problems.

Like you said - it appears babying your engine and the damage is done in the first 50 - 100kms.

The post also showed metal bits in the oil after the first 30kms - yes 30kms! The guy there recommended changing it way before the 1,000km first service (and a few times at that).

Also mentioned running mineral oil - not synthetic to allow the ring / bore bed in to occur properly.

[davebullet]

Sounds to me like you have already made your mind up mister ;)



What this very wise man said!!!!

I went from the ER6 to my Speedy and I don't regret it all!!! It has taken me a wee while to get used to the weight, and the slightly different riding style - but that bike is sexiness personified and I just love riding it. Can I, as a rider use all she has to offer? - hell no - but I am sure as hell going to enjoy learning how to!!!

JUST FARKING BUY IT!!!

Sounds like you made a similar step. I just can't bear to commit it to commuting! Although I do have the sexy bright orange high vis vest to go with the burnt orange paint job :sick:

[imdying]

I thought all that faffing about had disappeared 10 years ago? Don't you just ride them, get the first service done, and keep riding them? Buy a Honda; run it in any way you like. The more I hear about the 675 motor, the more it sounds like a badly designed/buiilt piece of crap from the 80s... but having said that, does it really matter? Do you plan to own it forever? Just rape it, sell it, get another one :yes:

[Stirts]

I just can't bear to commit it to commuting!

I don't commute, but that is purely because it would be all of 4kms and a straight line - and I can't be arsed getting up in the wee hours of the morning to add a ride to my commute to make it worth while. Although given that the Speedy is a wheelie monster, it could make that commute rather fun - maybe one day yeah right. Never had any issues when commuting through Aucks and the carpark they call the motorway.


Although I do have the sexy bright orange high vis vest to go with the burnt orange paint job :sick:

You know you said that with your outer voice aye :bleh:

[F5 Dave]

. . .
Things I noticed....
- Speedy is nearly as bumpy over rough surfaces as the SV. This was most suprising as I expected a plusher ride... but of course that isn't what a Speed triple is about
. . .

Now I've never ridden a speed, but if the forks are anything like my 1050 Tiger there is a good reason. The valving is super crude, adjustment can't help. Racetech valving kit from the good doctor will sort it. Not what you wanted to hear when you hadn't bought it, but worth it if you do.

The real question is: do you have the disposable coin?. If not, are you prepared to buy it with interest?

I'd rather keep an older bike & buy with cash at a later date. $12k borrowed could end up costing you $18k by dusting time.

[IdunBrokdItAgin]

I thought all that faffing about had disappeared 10 years ago? Don't you just ride them, get the first service done, and keep riding them? Buy a Honda; run it in any way you like. The more I hear about the 675 motor, the more it sounds like a badly designed/buiilt piece of crap from the 80s... but having said that, does it really matter? Do you plan to own it forever? Just rape it, sell it, get another one :yes:

Off topic: What's the 675 motor got to do with the speed triple? They are talking about the 1050 motor.

Back on topic: Dave - buy the speed triple.

P.s. Saw you (Cloggy pointed you out) checking out my street triple at the rimatuka lookout on saturday (the black street with the scratch on the aftermarket exhaust) - could tell then that you were thinking of buying a triumph.

[Stirts]

Now I've never ridden a speed, but if the forks are anything like my 1050 Tiger there is a good reason. The valving is super crude, adjustment can't help. Racetech valving kit from the good doctor will sort it. Not what you wanted to hear when you hadn't bought it, but worth it if you do.

Apparently so - Nodrog owned my Speedy prior to me and he had full racetech fork internals including springs and gold valves done. I beleive that it made quite a difference.


The real question is: do you have the disposable coin?. If not, are you prepared to buy it with interest?

I'd rather keep an older bike & buy with cash at a later date. $12k borrowed could end up costing you $18k by dusting time.

Shhhhhhhhhhhhh, his sensibility was almost KO'd

[davebullet]

Now I've never ridden a speed, but if the forks are anything like my 1050 Tiger there is a good reason. The valving is super crude, adjustment can't help. Racetech valving kit from the good doctor will sort it. Not what you wanted to hear when you hadn't bought it, but worth it if you do.

The real question is: do you have the disposable coin?. If not, are you prepared to buy it with interest?

I'd rather keep an older bike & buy with cash at a later date. $12k borrowed could end up costing you $18k by dusting time.

Re the suspension, I've figured as much. I have some fork cartridge emulators for the SV I've never bothered putting in.

I would be paying in cold hard cash. I never buy depreciating assets on tick (a false economy).

I would have money left over to do suspension and other mods... but I'd first rather just get to know the bike, get intimate (that sounds sick, but if I'm honest, I'm a sick person deep down).

The rest is going to have to be spent on the ridicu-louse ACC levies / license fee and shitty insurance companies who do not have a clue what real risk I present (never binned but alas).

[Stirts]

The rest is going to have to be spent on the ridicu-louse ACC levies / license fee and shitty insurance companies who do not have a clue what real risk I present (never binned but alas).

Be all worth it because you will have a sexyarse bike!

[davebullet]

Off topic: What's the 675 motor got to do with the speed triple? They are talking about the 1050 motor.

Back on topic: Dave - buy the speed triple.

P.s. Saw you (Cloggy pointed you out) checking out my street triple at the rimatuka lookout on saturday (the black street with the scratch on the aftermarket exhaust) - could tell then that you were thinking of buying a triumph.

I shouldn't have been such as shy bastard and come over and said hello. I recognised Cloggy and yourself and Mr Hyosung 250 (can't remember his signon).

I don't get out for as many rides as I'd like too, kids and responsibilities...

Speedy should help me shrug those. After all, hooligans bikes have no time for responsibility!

[davebullet]

I thought all that faffing about had disappeared 10 years ago? Don't you just ride them, get the first service done, and keep riding them? Buy a Honda; run it in any way you like. The more I hear about the 675 motor, the more it sounds like a badly designed/buiilt piece of crap from the 80s... but having said that, does it really matter? Do you plan to own it forever? Just rape it, sell it, get another one :yes:

Anything specific about 675 motors that's bad?

I know the 1050 is the old 955 unit with a lengthened stroke and FI . Much the same as the SV650 motor predates the current model (and is still used across Suzuki's range).

Personally - I like "old" motors. If it ain't broken, don't fix it. At 130 crank hp and 100Nm of torque, that's heaps for me. That means comfortable engine pulling power with a load on the back (touring / going away) or occasional 2 up riding.... or even in strong headwind (where the SV needs a cog or 2 down).

I think the don't baby it run in procedure applies to any new engine.

[davebullet]

Be all worth it because you will have a sexyarse bike!

True. It will be a keeper for a few years. the SV was my bigger bike fill in / learner.

The only problem with the Speedy is wider bars making the commuting split interesting. Speedy might eat a few wing mirrors for breakfast!

[sinned]

Anything specific about 675 motors that's bad?

I know the 1050 is the old 955 unit with a lengthened stroke and FI .

I think the don't baby it run in procedure applies to any new engine.

I don't know where these rumors come from - could be from jealous hyobang owners or gay honda riders. If you can find any evidence of problems with what is widely reported as one of the great bike motors, let me know. Also, the speedy is a $20k not a $30 - $40k bike so its suspension, seat foam, and other components may not be right up there with the rich boys toys, but it is one hell of a good bike for its money. And the exhaust and intake noise is hard to better.

[Stirts]

The only problem with the Speedy is wider bars making the commuting split interesting. Speedy might eat a few wing mirrors for breakfast!

:laugh: I have been through spaghetti junction at peak hour, and those bastards really close in on you too, but I can say that I have had no issues with that. However, the temptation to knock off a few mirrors with my boot has been high but I have always possessed enough control to keep that urge at bay.

[BuzzardNZ]

if you like your sv650 so much, have you considered the SV1K ?

[F5 Dave]

Re the suspension, I've figured as much. I have some fork cartridge emulators for the SV I've never bothered putting in.

I would be paying in cold hard cash. I never buy depreciating assets on tick (a false economy).

I would have money left over to do suspension and other mods... but I'd first rather just get to know the bike, get intimate (that sounds sick, but if I'm honest, I'm a sick person deep down).
. . . .
Then do it. Life it short, but if you have play money then play.:yes:

I've done suspension mods on bikes I've owned for years & kicked myself for not doing it earlier. With the Tiger & went in straight away. I knew the suspension was crude. The front made biggest difference & seeing the internals it's not hard to see why.

[davebullet]

if you like your sv650 so much, have you considered the SV1K ?

I did think about that, but I've always had a crush on Triumphs - especially the original street fighter! (oh gawd, the marketing has got to me!)

Dont' get me wrong, the SV1k with upgraded suspension and brakes would be a killer machine... but they just lack the attitude / look I am after

I will miss my VTwin rumble. However I like the sound of the speedy which I'd describe as almost angry. It sounds like a god damn tornado!


Then do it. Life it short, but if you have play money then play.:yes:

I've done suspension mods on bikes I've owned for years & kicked myself for not doing it earlier. With the Tiger & went in straight away. I knew the suspension was crude. The front made biggest difference & seeing the internals it's not hard to see why.

I'm going to opt for some look at me bits (flyscreen and bellypan) - I do like them. The flyscreen will be carbon so not in your face orange like the rest of the bike. I will also get a hugger for keeping it cleaner.

I can see a suspension upgrade in a year or 2. Mr. Taylor will be called upon. I won't risk off-shore or monkeying around myself. A false economy when you need specialist advice for NZ specific conditions and your own riding requirements (weight = average and style = bad ).

[davebullet]

I've pulled the trigger. Deposit is down, bike bought!

I will pick it up on full payment - probably around mid-august.

Thanks Motorad!

[Stirts]

I've done it!

High fiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiive!!!
<img src="http://www.mbd2.com/forum/balloon_Animal_Blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/high-five.gif"></img>

[davebullet]

High fiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiive!!!

Damn - can't give rep again! - thanks!

Now I've just got to go home and explain the "logic" of the decision :shit:

[Stirts]

Now I've just got to go home and explain the "logic" of the decision :shit:

Easy............."See these pants? I wear them" let me know how that works out :D

[F5 Dave]

13 min since my post. I'll claim credit.:Punk:

On ya. Enjoy.

[sinned]

Now I've just got to go home and explain the "logic" of the decision :shit:

There is no logic just an emotive love for a thing of beauty. The only downside is one day you will regret selling it.

[slofox]

I took my first test ride on a Speed Triple yesterday. It was a bad idea. I've put it off knowing if I liked the bike, I'd want to just ride it home.

Interestingly, I had envisaged the bike excelling the SV650 in all areas. What I found is the step up from a 250 to the SV was a lot more than I felt going to the Speed Triple. The good thing is the Speed fit like a hand cover. I was totally at home in the first 5 minutes.

Things I noticed....
- Speedy is nearly as bumpy over rough surfaces as the SV. This was most suprising as I expected a plusher ride... but of course that isn't what a Speed triple is about
- The engine goes mental at about 4 - 5krpm. This is a good thing. It means it can happily chug along below or give you a cardio workout above.
- The brembo brakes make the SV's feel like a sponge is doing the job. They have lovely bite and effortless application
- The Metzler Sportec M3 (?) tyres heated up nicely - even for a mild mannered cornerer like me on a cool day
- Speedy feels much more planted during the corners. Bumps which would cause a bit of headshake on the SV weren't apparent. I put it down to the bigger forks, better suspension and increased weight
- Speedy wasn't as flickable, but could be rider technique / learning to turn her in effectively
- The gearbox literally clunks. Not a negative - call it "gear change aural reinforcement". There is a big movement required to go from first to second. I'd need to adjust the lever down a bit otherwise I'm asking my foot to bend in a direction it wasn't designed to do
- Seat height higher. I can get both feet flat on the ground, but on uneven surfaces Id need to be careful (I'm about 5'10" give or take an inch)
- Well made
- Exhaust note quite a bit different to the VTwin of the SV
- Radiator fan quite noisy at idle / waiting at the lights
- Bloody lovely looking bike (burnt gloss orange)

My dilemma is I can get a good deal on the new bike. My dilemma is because I am trying to justify in my own mind whether I as a rider can use all she has to offer, but also justify whether it is worth 3+ times the used value of my SV650.

If I didn't have the SV650 - the decision to buy would be an immediate yes. This either tells me I've become attached to the SV, it suits my riding style well, or the SV is a really good lilttle bike.

I swapped my SV650S for a GSX-R600 recently. Can't say I miss the SV AT ALL!

[ukusa]

I've pulled the trigger. Deposit is down, bike bought!

I will pick it up on full payment - probably around mid-august.

Thanks Motorad!

how the hell can you wait that long, it'll seem like months!

[davebullet]

how the hell can you wait that long, it'll seem like months!

Good point. Right now, I'm still in la la land having bought it. I think in the next couple of days time will begin to slow waiting for D day.

The issue is mine (not Motorads - they said "do you want it for the weekend?"). I'm waiting for a payout, hence the delay. But at least I've secured it and it will be MINE!

[AllanB]

Ah running in. What to do on your brand new investment? Thrash the crap out of it and hope that website was correct?

I've cut open all my oil filters - not one hint of metal in them - first one at 1,000 kms, but it is a Honda not a Triumph.....

The most reasonable running in procedure I have read (and used) is at 919.org - shameless stolen and posted below for your perusal. In miles, as he is an American. You'll also find his method uses higher revs than the Triumph one - ie max 75% of revs for first 240 kms - Triumph will recommend less.

Break In Procedures

When I break-in a bike I try to follow a very serious order of operations & so far I have had very good success with it. My last 3 new bikes have always dynoed at the upper end of the horsepower scale when compared to the same model bikes on the same dyno.
These are the guidelines I use for all my new bikes:

Lots of heat cycles! run it & let it cool off, run it & let it cool off.

#1 rule is never maintain a steady speed during break-in. Always keep the revs going up & down. Nothing is worse on a new bike than putting miles on it at a steady rpm especially on the interstate.

For the 1st 150 miles I take it real easy never exceeding 75% of the redline(i.e if redline is 10,000 then I would not go over 7500) I take extra special care to listen for as well as feel any anomalies in the valvetrain and driveline. I am also very smooth on the throttle no jerky movements or ham fisted off & ons & I never hold the throttle at the higher rpms if I go to 7500rpm I immediately shift & bring the rpms back down.

From 150 to 250 miles I try to liven up the process by introducing brief spurts up to 90% of the redline, but once again I never stay there immediately bring the revs back down & maybe once or twice run it to the redzone & back down but don't hit the hard limiter.

250 to 600 miles It's spirited riding, but still making sure to keep the rpms fluctuating & I routinely take it up to close to redline without hitting the hard limiter.

600 miles I change the oil & inspect it thoroughly, hell I even cut open my oil filters & look LOL

600-1200 miles normal riding but still with caution & smoothness in my actions & I still try to vary my rpms on the highway even though by now that's damn near impossible cause I'm usually commuting to different rides.

After 1200 miles I flog it, wheelies & top end bursts, but I still don't hold it wide open for any real duration of time until around 1500-1700 miles.

Many RC51 Owners have commented that they have followed these instructions & their personal results were right along the results I have reported in that their bikes also produced dyno charts that were at the upper end of the scale for power output of similarly or identically equipped machines. There is no guarantee that my way works nor any scientific tests to prove it, but commonsense & the dyno results should go a long way in helping you to decide what is the best way to break your bike in properly.

A couple other notes:

Yes there are professional tuners out there that recommend that you flog the hell out of the bike right from the start to instantly seat the rings etc & yes I will admit that those bikes have in many cases produced a little more peak horsepower initially, but what everyone fails to realize is that those professional race tuners are going to end up rebuilding that motor at least once if not twice a season (sometimes more often than that) & they don't care if engine wear is accelerated or not. Most of us want a reliable good performing motor & my break-in procedures will give you that. I've been doing this for many years & living in Memphis have seen many bikes bought in the afternoon & being dragraced that evening & they always end up smoking within about 1500 miles.

The aviation industry has without a doubt the most explicit & detailed break-in procedures for internal combustion motors. The reason for this is that they MUST be reliable as an engine failure in the air has the potential to be alot more dangerous than an engine failure on the ground. Their engine break-in regimens consist of many of the exact same key elements that mine do. Heat cycles, no initial steady rpms & ever increasing rpm peaks.

One final note is that even though the engine may be broke in properly many times the transmission still takes longer. It is not uncommon for a motorcycle transmission to need 1800-2000 miles to get fully broke-in & during that time is susceptible to accelerated wear just as the motors are. You may even notice that the more miles you put on your bike the better the transmission starts to work. During break-in keep your shifts solid & smooth, use the clutch for both upshifts/downshifts & just generally be aware that all new metal parts need time to bed in properly.

[Owl]

I've pulled the trigger. Deposit is down, bike bought!

I will pick it up on full payment - probably around mid-august.

Thanks Motorad!

Great stuff, you'll love it!

Pity you weren't looking a few weeks ago, as Anza had a new SE for 18k. It wasn't there long!:no:

[ernie953]

I've just brought an 09 speedy and loving it. Bling so far,fly screen,hugger,bar end mirrors. Yet to arrive, Leo Vince low mount slip on. Sitting in a box is an Ohlins shock fresh from CKT. These bikes do have the X factor and I know you'll just love it.

[beyond]

Ah running in. What to do on your brand new investment? Thrash the crap out of it and hope that website was correct?

I've cut open all my oil filters - not one hint of metal in them - first one at 1,000 kms, but it is a Honda not a Triumph.....

The most reasonable running in procedure I have read (and used) is at 919.org - shameless stolen and posted below for your perusal. In miles, as he is an American. You'll also find his method uses higher revs than the Triumph one - ie max 75% of revs for first 240 kms - Triumph will recommend less.

Break In Procedures

When I break-in a bike I try to follow a very serious order of operations & so far I have had very good success with it. My last 3 new bikes have always dynoed at the upper end of the horsepower scale when compared to the same model bikes on the same dyno.
These are the guidelines I use for all my new bikes:

Lots of heat cycles! run it & let it cool off, run it & let it cool off.

#1 rule is never maintain a steady speed during break-in. Always keep the revs going up & down. Nothing is worse on a new bike than putting miles on it at a steady rpm especially on the interstate.

For the 1st 150 miles I take it real easy never exceeding 75% of the redline(i.e if redline is 10,000 then I would not go over 7500) I take extra special care to listen for as well as feel any anomalies in the valvetrain and driveline. I am also very smooth on the throttle no jerky movements or ham fisted off & ons & I never hold the throttle at the higher rpms if I go to 7500rpm I immediately shift & bring the rpms back down.

From 150 to 250 miles I try to liven up the process by introducing brief spurts up to 90% of the redline, but once again I never stay there immediately bring the revs back down & maybe once or twice run it to the redzone & back down but don't hit the hard limiter.

250 to 600 miles It's spirited riding, but still making sure to keep the rpms fluctuating & I routinely take it up to close to redline without hitting the hard limiter.

600 miles I change the oil & inspect it thoroughly, hell I even cut open my oil filters & look LOL

600-1200 miles normal riding but still with caution & smoothness in my actions & I still try to vary my rpms on the highway even though by now that's damn near impossible cause I'm usually commuting to different rides.

After 1200 miles I flog it, wheelies & top end bursts, but I still don't hold it wide open for any real duration of time until around 1500-1700 miles.

Many RC51 Owners have commented that they have followed these instructions & their personal results were right along the results I have reported in that their bikes also produced dyno charts that were at the upper end of the scale for power output of similarly or identically equipped machines. There is no guarantee that my way works nor any scientific tests to prove it, but commonsense & the dyno results should go a long way in helping you to decide what is the best way to break your bike in properly.

A couple other notes:

Yes there are professional tuners out there that recommend that you flog the hell out of the bike right from the start to instantly seat the rings etc & yes I will admit that those bikes have in many cases produced a little more peak horsepower initially, but what everyone fails to realize is that those professional race tuners are going to end up rebuilding that motor at least once if not twice a season (sometimes more often than that) & they don't care if engine wear is accelerated or not. Most of us want a reliable good performing motor & my break-in procedures will give you that. I've been doing this for many years & living in Memphis have seen many bikes bought in the afternoon & being dragraced that evening & they always end up smoking within about 1500 miles.

The aviation industry has without a doubt the most explicit & detailed break-in procedures for internal combustion motors. The reason for this is that they MUST be reliable as an engine failure in the air has the potential to be alot more dangerous than an engine failure on the ground. Their engine break-in regimens consist of many of the exact same key elements that mine do. Heat cycles, no initial steady rpms & ever increasing rpm peaks.

One final note is that even though the engine may be broke in properly many times the transmission still takes longer. It is not uncommon for a motorcycle transmission to need 1800-2000 miles to get fully broke-in & during that time is susceptible to accelerated wear just as the motors are. You may even notice that the more miles you put on your bike the better the transmission starts to work. During break-in keep your shifts solid & smooth, use the clutch for both upshifts/downshifts & just generally be aware that all new metal parts need time to bed in properly.


This is exactly how I have run in all my cars and motorbikes with huge mileages put on them without problems, no oil burning and long life out of the engines plus willing engines that produce more power.

[Headbanger]

After dropping 20 grand on a Speed Triple there was only one way I was going to break it in, exactly as the manufacturer specified, Took all of a couple weeks, I got to know the bike as I done it, and I could feel the engine come to life as I eased her up the rev-range.

An enjoyable time with a brand new bike.

Not interested in the slightest with what some internet warrior thinks I should do with my pride and joy.

[sinned]

Plan to run it in correctly from the time you pick up the bike takes a bit of planning. A mistake is to pick it up at the end of the day and get stuck in traffic so you cannot load and unload the motor. I picked up my new bikes in the middle of the day so the road was mine and I used the 10kms home to load up the motor and then slow with engine braking. When I got home I let it cool down and then out again. The section of motorway from Tawa to Churton Park is ideal in non peak times - on ramp acceleration, slow down speed up a few times then off ramp and around the loop on ramp acceleration a few times to bring up 50kms.

As you have to wait to get the bike there is time to plan your first 10, 50, 100kms running in rides. Then for the next few hundred kms don't ride for any period without varying the load. That's what I did - who knows if it made much difference, it was fun though.

[sinned]

After dropping 20 grand on a Speed Triple there was only one way I was going to break it in, exactly as the manufacturer specified, .

Except that is not how those bikes on demo to motorcycle journalists are run in. They are raced, thrashed, tested from new and word is no harm is done and they run well after that treatment.

[Rogue Rider]

Well, dangerous move bro, I went in with my old bike for a routine check, ended up going for a ride on the triple while I waited........ Never went back lol, rode it home, then told the shop they could keep my bike and did a swap. No more rocket 111, Speed Triple 1050 and feeling free.
There is no comparison to the SV on any level really, the engineering and quality is alot superior from stock. I had a K31000s and it was very average by comparison.
The Triple winds up like a storm, love the sound with open bore cans. Shocks a adjustable and corner like glue. The bike is incredibly lite weight, there is only 5kg diff from the sv650? so not really even noticeable.
The clunky gear change will be related to the rev range you are changing. If you change gear in the 4-5k+ range as per spec then it transitions smooth and swift with no clunk.
I love my triple, its fluru trumpy green, The green machine.....
Its my commuter for my 51km trip to work every day. My only recommendation is, it's definately a riders bike, if you lke an upright riding position, its awesome, low wind drag, and it feels like your honking at 120km/ p/hr..... Love it.
I did add chub bars, dampers, heated grips, ventura rack and rail, and, fly screen and seat cowl. My cans are the trumpy genuine race cans, currently manufacturing my own that will be even louder and better.

Owh, and never had an easier trick bike, wheelies and stoppies, no prob. Bike does it virtually on its own, so don't share it lol.:Punk::Punk:




I took my first test ride on a Speed Triple yesterday. It was a bad idea. I've put it off knowing if I liked the bike, I'd want to just ride it home.

Interestingly, I had envisaged the bike excelling the SV650 in all areas. What I found is the step up from a 250 to the SV was a lot more than I felt going to the Speed Triple. The good thing is the Speed fit like a hand cover. I was totally at home in the first 5 minutes.

Things I noticed....
- Speedy is nearly as bumpy over rough surfaces as the SV. This was most suprising as I expected a plusher ride... but of course that isn't what a Speed triple is about
- The engine goes mental at about 4 - 5krpm. This is a good thing. It means it can happily chug along below or give you a cardio workout above.
- The brembo brakes make the SV's feel like a sponge is doing the job. They have lovely bite and effortless application
- The Metzler Sportec M3 (?) tyres heated up nicely - even for a mild mannered cornerer like me on a cool day
- Speedy feels much more planted during the corners. Bumps which would cause a bit of headshake on the SV weren't apparent. I put it down to the bigger forks, better suspension and increased weight
- Speedy wasn't as flickable, but could be rider technique / learning to turn her in effectively
- The gearbox literally clunks. Not a negative - call it "gear change aural reinforcement". There is a big movement required to go from first to second. I'd need to adjust the lever down a bit otherwise I'm asking my foot to bend in a direction it wasn't designed to do
- Seat height higher. I can get both feet flat on the ground, but on uneven surfaces Id need to be careful (I'm about 5'10" give or take an inch)
- Well made
- Exhaust note quite a bit different to the VTwin of the SV
- Radiator fan quite noisy at idle / waiting at the lights
- Bloody lovely looking bike (burnt gloss orange)

My dilemma is I can get a good deal on the new bike. My dilemma is because I am trying to justify in my own mind whether I as a rider can use all she has to offer, but also justify whether it is worth 3+ times the used value of my SV650.

If I didn't have the SV650 - the decision to buy would be an immediate yes. This either tells me I've become attached to the SV, it suits my riding style well, or the SV is a really good lilttle bike.

[sinned]

Well, dangerous move bro, I went in with my old bike for a routine check, ended up going for a ride on the triple while I waited........ Never went back lol, rode it home, then told the shop they could keep my bike and did a swap. No more rocket 111, Speed Triple 1050 and feeling free.
There is no comparison to the SV on any level really, the engineering and quality is alot superior from stock. I had a K31000s and it was very average by comparison.
The Triple winds up like a storm, love the sound with open bore cans. Shocks a adjustable and corner like glue. The bike is incredibly lite weight, there is only 5kg diff from the sv650? so not really even noticeable.
The clunky gear change will be related to the rev range you are changing. If you change gear in the 4-5k+ range as per spec then it transitions smooth and swift with no clunk.
I love my triple, its fluru trumpy green, The green machine.....
Its my commuter for my 51km trip to work every day. My only recommendation is, it's definately a riders bike, if you lke an upright riding position, its awesome, low wind drag, and it feels like your honking at 120km/ p/hr..... Love it.
I did add chub bars, dampers, heated grips, ventura rack and rail, and, fly screen and seat cowl. My cans are the trumpy genuine race cans, currently manufacturing my own that will be even louder and better.

Owh, and never had an easier trick bike, wheelies and stoppies, no prob. Bike does it virtually on its own, so don't share it lol.:Punk::Punk:

Stop this - I might have to buy another one.

[Corse1]

I've just brought an 09 speedy and loving it. Bling so far,fly screen,hugger,bar end mirrors. Yet to arrive, Leo Vince low mount slip on. Sitting in a box is an Ohlins shock fresh from CKT. These bikes do have the X factor and I know you'll just love it.

Hmm don't mind me asking...how much for the Ohlins??

On the subject of thread....Great move on the purchase and suspension should be one of your priority upgrades. You will get sick of bouncing all over the road:shit:

Running In. Mines an 06 registered ex Bayride demo so I assume it did not get babied in the first few kilometers. I am up to 22500 now being the third owner and no oil is used between changes. Suggests that the theory of demo bikes attaining good life out of the motors could be true...long way to go to prove that theory though.

Friggen nearly lost hold of the LH handlebar taking off from the lights today after a bit of lane splitting and giving it a bit of bif from the lights.

So my disappointments after a year and a half ownership
1..suspension too harsh with minimal adjustment but ok for the track
2..still getting used to the chirping straight cut gears
Otherwise its all fantastic :yes:

[Headbanger]

Except that is not how those bikes on demo to motorcycle journalists are run in. They are raced, thrashed, tested from new and word is no harm is done and they run well after that treatment.

No concern of mine how some bikes Ive never owned and never would own have been treated.

People are free to choose whatever method they like to use, I merely stated my preference.

Having said that, I have bought a demo bike before, and how it had probably been mistreated by twats was taken into account.

Pity I didn't take into account how shithouse the workshop service at ANZA would be instead.

[GMcC]

There is no logic just an emotive love for a thing of beauty. The only downside is one day you will regret selling it.

Yep + 1 :yes:
I`m on me 3rd Speedy and after mixing it up with a few other bikes I can say its one of the delights in life !!!
Had a K6 SV1000 from new and it did ride well - tho with no soul to it
Sprint 1050 x 2, KTM 990, Buells x 2 - Uly and 1125R, S2R 1000, V Strom 1000, VTR 1000,
The 2010 SE has better suspension config compared to my last 2 - 08 / 09 models
Apparantly the valving and internals are totally revised front and back - tho it can be harsh on slow backcountry pot holy type roads ( seems that most of ours are ! )
Tracks way better than previous 1s - feels more planted - same hoops - M3s
Sounds just as sweet and with 3000+ ks on her shes startn to get its breath
Last 2 really loosened up from 8 - 10 thou kms so...................
They are a great piece but each to his own eh :shifty:

[Gubb]

Fuck yeah!

10 points Dave.

[HenryDorsetCase]

I've pulled the trigger. Deposit is down, bike bought!

I will pick it up on full payment - probably around mid-august.

Thanks Motorad!

good stuff! ;)

[John_H]

Well, dangerous move bro, I went in with my old bike for a routine check, ended up going for a ride on the triple while I waited........ Never went back lol, rode it home, then told the shop they could keep my bike and did a swap. No more rocket 111, Speed Triple 1050 and feeling free.
There is no comparison to the SV on any level really, the engineering and quality is alot superior from stock. I had a K31000s and it was very average by comparison.
The Triple winds up like a storm, love the sound with open bore cans. Shocks a adjustable and corner like glue. The bike is incredibly lite weight, there is only 5kg diff from the sv650? so not really even noticeable.
The clunky gear change will be related to the rev range you are changing. If you change gear in the 4-5k+ range as per spec then it transitions smooth and swift with no clunk.
I love my triple, its fluru trumpy green, The green machine.....
Its my commuter for my 51km trip to work every day. My only recommendation is, it's definately a riders bike, if you lke an upright riding position, its awesome, low wind drag, and it feels like your honking at 120km/ p/hr..... Love it.
I did add chub bars, dampers, heated grips, ventura rack and rail, and, fly screen and seat cowl. My cans are the trumpy genuine race cans, currently manufacturing my own that will be even louder and better.

Owh, and never had an easier trick bike, wheelies and stoppies, no prob. Bike does it virtually on its own, so don't share it lol.:Punk::Punk:

How are they for wind at speed, does the bikini fairing do much?

[davebullet]

Ah running in. What to do on your brand new investment? Thrash the crap out of it and hope that website was correct?

I've cut open all my oil filters - not one hint of metal in them - first one at 1,000 kms, but it is a Honda not a Triumph.....

The most reasonable running in procedure I have read (and used) is at 919.org - shameless stolen and posted below for your perusal. In miles, as he is an American. You'll also find his method uses higher revs than the Triumph one - ie max 75% of revs for first 240 kms - Triumph will recommend less.

Thanks Allan,

I found this one before you posted as well. Seems to me here are the key points:
1. Heat cycles are good and allow the sleeves to expand / contract / settle. In other words, you don't want to do 1,000 kms in one stint to bed in your rings. You need block expansion / contraction and sleeve bedding in as well as the rings so they all mate together properly

2. The first 50 - 100kms are critical for ring bed in. Proper engine loading / unloading is critical to ensure proper ring mating to the bore and avoid "rounding off" the rings which lead to poor compression and worse, oil consumption and oil contamination from blow by gases. By loading, that would be running the speedy from about 4 - 7krpm (near peak of the torque curve, or 75% as noted on cb919.org) using half to full throttle. Unloading is using engine braking, by not snapping off but rolling off and allowing the engine to fully brake the bike (no assistance from the brakes).

3. Load and unload the engine to about 75% RPM

4. Vary revs

5. Never labour (lug) the engine at low revs ever in the run in period

6. Use a mineral oil to help the ring bedding process

7. Check the oil before the first 1,000kms service for metal particles. You can recycle if clear, but if full of glitter, replace oil and filter (why would you want that pumping around your engine until first service?)

8. Gearboxes can take a lot longer to break in. All gears need to be exercised to remove slurry / grease etc. Ensure you give all gears some sort of workout before the first dealer 1,000km service so the sludge can be drained out. In the first 50 - 100kms sacrifice the higher gears in order to do the engine loading / unloading (eg. use 1st / 2nd / 3rd) or risk a government donation via Mr. Plod.

sinned - thanks for the advice to pick up mid day and plan the first few rides. A very good way of keeping me busy before xmas arrives in August :yes:

[Corse1]

How are they for wind at speed, does the bikini fairing do much?

Seems to have quite a lot of effect on mine. I don't find wind blast a problem at higher speeds. Haven't tried it without though.

Another thing is the light front end wich can result in a "light" handlebar weave one you get over the ton. Its not dangerous but can be unerving the first couple of times. Accellerated through one at 170 kph and buttoned off another time when it occured at 211kph. Not on public road of course:no:

It might only affect the earlier 1050 speedy's. Ive read test articles where they have experienced this on the track also.

[javawocky]

I've only met one disappointed owner of the Street tripple - some poor sod who couldn't crack much more than 200k's down the back straight at Pukekoe because of the wind resistance.

Other than that you should be fine ;)

(Test road the Daytona and loved the midrange surge which sends the front wheel sky-rocketing. I would choose it over the Street tripple, but that's just me.)

[davebullet]

Seems to have quite a lot of effect on mine. I don't find wind blast a problem at higher speeds. Haven't tried it without though.

Another thing is the light front end wich can result in a "light" handlebar weave one you get over the ton. Its not dangerous but can be unerving the first couple of times. Accellerated through one at 170 kph and buttoned off another time when it occured at 211kph. Not on public road of course:no:

It might only affect the earlier 1050 speedy's. Ive read test articles where they have experienced this on the track also.

I've only been for one test ride, but at about 110kph compared to the SV there was less wiond buffeting. I put this down to the following:
1. Speedy is wider at the front
2. dual headlamps provide more frontal protection (even though no flyscreen was fitted to the demo model)
3. wider handlebars provides more leverage / security?

or it was just a calm day and I'm talking out me arse.

[Corse1]

I've only been for one test ride, but at about 110kph compared to the SV there was less wiond buffeting. I put this down to the following:
1. Speedy is wider at the front
2. dual headlamps provide more frontal protection (even though no flyscreen was fitted to the demo model)
3. wider handlebars provides more leverage / security?

or it was just a calm day and I'm talking out me arse.

I found it quite surprising how calm the triple was considering its a naked. I think you will find that you sit down in the bike which helps as well. I also think that the wider bars allow more rider input which can cause the weave mentioned in my last post.

[Headbanger]

Never yet had an issue of wind buffeting, and I find the bike supremely comfortable, and I have ridden it for many hours a day for quite a few continuous days.

I was going to say I could attribute some of the comfort to the skinny bars, But it seems most consider them to be wide.:blink:

Compared to the huge bars I had on my Harley they are minuscule, Overall the bike reminds me of the MX bikes I once rode.

[Corse1]

Another note on comfort, I could ride it all day no problems. Took the speedy down to Wellington at Christmas time. Even with the bumby ride I had no problem with sore ass:yes:

I would have needed more regular stops on the ST4s and thats supposed to be a sports tourer.

[sinned]

The SpeedT3 flyscreen fairing is very well designed. It pushes the air up and out and you will be riding in clean air - so no buffeting. The bike is easy to handle / correct in extreme wind gusts as sometime experienced in Wellington. When I test rode other bikes with fairings, after riding the speedT3, I hated the buffeting from poorly designed full fairings and screens. One of the reasons to buy the Hayabusa - clean direct air at low speed and little buffeting at any sort of high speed.

[Headbanger]

footnote, Mine is fitted with gel seat and flyscreen/fairing.

The Gel seat is so damn fine, It took a few hundred clicks to bed in but when it did it was like whoa, Thats the finest my arse has ever been treated.

[davebullet]

The SpeedT3 flyscreen fairing is very well designed. It pushes the air up and out and you will be riding in clean air - so no buffeting. The bike is easy to handle / correct in extreme wind gusts as sometime experienced in Wellington. When I test rode other bikes with fairings, after riding the speedT3, I hated the buffeting from poorly designed full fairings and screens. One of the reasons to buy the Hayabusa - clean direct air at low speed and little buffeting at any sort of high speed.

That's made my mind up. I'll get one. I'll just have to forget the $500+ for a piece of plastic!

PS: Do you reckon I should go for a carbon fibre flyscreen (understated) or in your face orange one to match the bike.

[davebullet]

footnote, Mine is fitted with gel seat and flyscreen/fairing.

The Gel seat is so damn fine, It took a few hundred clicks to bed in but when it did it was like whoa, Thats the finest my arse has ever been treated.

I presume they are just a "snap in" aftermarket? (in other words, no specialist installation skills required?) I might have to put that on my xmas list. Too many extras I'd like to get up front.

Here's the definites:
Flyscreen
Rear hugger
Tank pad / protector

Probably:
Bellypan

Later:
Suspension (front forks first probably)
Under seat arrows (need to hear a pair first to see if worth it)
Possibly a tail tidy

[Owl]

Too many extras I'd like to get up front.

Here's the definites:
Flyscreen
Rear hugger
Tank pad / protector

Probably:
Bellypan

Later:
Suspension (front forks first probably)
Under seat arrows (need to hear a pair first to see if worth it)
Possibly a tail tidy

I may be able to help with that first list Dave, before you go spending oodles.

I've got a damaged flyscreen which needs a mount plastic welded, scratch sanded and requires painting, but you can have it!

Also got a FAB fiberglass rear hugger (steel mount), which has a slight nick on the side, but you can have that too, as I replaced it with a genuine Triumph one.

I also have a new unused genuine Triumph carbon fiber tank pad, but that'll cost you $50 if you want it. They're normally over $100.

I'll try and get some pics.

[Owl]

Some pics!

[sinned]

That's made my mind up. I'll get one. I'll just have to forget the $500+ for a piece of plastic!
. $500 is the standard Triumph price for most things - I did a big gulp when told the price but bought it anyway.



PS: Do you reckon I should go for a carbon fibre flyscreen (understated) or in your face orange one to match the bike.
I would colour match with the orange. Personal choice though and if you were to accessorize with a lot of carbon bits then possibly the carbon screen may look the part.

The hugger will make a big difference to keeping the bike clean. The SpeedT3 is a hard bike to keep clean as bits of crap get into all the little places and being an open bike you see it all.

[Corse1]

I presume they are just a "snap in" aftermarket? (in other words, no specialist installation skills required?) I might have to put that on my xmas list. Too many extras I'd like to get up front.

Here's the definites:
Flyscreen
Rear hugger
Tank pad / protector

Probably:
Bellypan

Later:
Suspension (front forks first probably)
Under seat arrows (need to hear a pair first to see if worth it)
Possibly a tail tidy
http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/ae36/Speed3/Triumphsell003-1.jpg
http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/ae36/Speed3/Triumphsell010.jpg
No real skills needed to install anything. There is a black plastic mounting piece that bolts to the instruments and then the screen bolts to that.

I have the low mount arrow pipe which sounds awsome. The high mounts give a little more power gtain I think but the low mount looks cool!

I see on my mates 08 Sprint that the holes for mounting the hugger are not there. The three mount raised and machined surfaces are there but no holes?? Not sure if they come out like that. Would be a bugger to put in now.

[2wheeldrifter]

I presume they are just a "snap in" aftermarket? (in other words, no specialist installation skills required?) I might have to put that on my xmas list. Too many extras I'd like to get up front.

Here's the definites:
Flyscreen
Rear hugger
Tank pad / protector

Probably:
Bellypan

Later:
Suspension (front forks first probably)
Under seat arrows (need to hear a pair first to see if worth it)
Possibly a tail tidy

Arrows........ mmmmm I know someone with some...... :)

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/124827-STREET-TRIPLE-Arrow-Mufflers-plus-pipes-etc.

[davebullet]

Arrows........ mmmmm I know someone with some...... :)

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/124827-STREET-TRIPLE-Arrow-Mufflers-plus-pipes-etc.

There's an idea. I haven't checked if the pipe ID / OD is compatible. You said you were missing a bracket, but it looks like there are 2 in the photo? Is it just one bracket per side?

Triumph lists different part number for Street R (ZA9600200) and Speed (ZA9600290). Doesn't mean they are different.. but I'll poke around a couple of websites and find out.

I could definitely be keen.

[davebullet]

I may be able to help with that first list Dave, before you go spending oodles.

I've got a damaged flyscreen which needs a mount plastic welded, scratch sanded and requires painting, but you can have it!

Also got a FAB fiberglass rear hugger (steel mount), which has a slight nick on the side, but you can have that too, as I replaced it with a genuine Triumph one.

I also have a new unused genuine Triumph carbon fiber tank pad, but that'll cost you $50 if you want it. They're normally over $100.

I'll try and get some pics.

Thanks Owl!

I can get a good discount on the rear hugger so also going for a triumph one. I dont' know what is involved getting the weld fixed on the flyscreen, plus specific colour match (I presume it would be a little tricky), so I'll probably go new on that.

I also have a pro grip tank pad ready to go when I get the bike. I've used one on the SV and it was really good. But cheers for offering!

[davebullet]

I can't get it off my mind. Counting down the days!

[2wheeldrifter]

There's an idea. I haven't checked if the pipe ID / OD is compatible. You said you were missing a bracket, but it looks like there are 2 in the photo? Is it just one bracket per side?

Triumph lists different part number for Street R (ZA9600200) and Speed (ZA9600290). Doesn't mean they are different.. but I'll poke around a couple of websites and find out.

I could definitely be keen.

The hanger/strap that wraps around the muffler, it's what this bolts to, look behind that bracket in the pic and you JUST can see the steel bracket??? it's that one, nothing more than a folded/bent bit of steel... not hard to remake with a vice and a drill etc...

But hey not using then any more.. so yeah willing to talk etc....

[davebullet]

Here she is. <1km on the clock outside Motorad. Everyone looking as you ride off. Bloody fantastic!

Camera does not do the blazing orange justice.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj142/Dave_Bullet/Speed%20Triple%202010/P1000655.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj142/Dave_Bullet/Speed%20Triple%202010/P1000654.jpg

[vifferman]

Awesome!
Congratulations, Sir! :niceone:

[gatch]

Here she is. <1km on the clock outside Motorad. Everyone looking as you ride off. Bloody fantastic!

Camera does not do the blazing orange justice.
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj142/Dave_Bullet/Speed%20Triple%202010/P1000655.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj142/Dave_Bullet/Speed%20Triple%202010/P1000654.jpg

Cool man, though there is a few things NEED changing. Pillion pegs, pipes, the license plate hanger thing. Otherwise very very cool. I wants one.

[davebullet]

Cool man, though there is a few things NEED changing. Pillion pegs, pipes, the license plate hanger thing. Otherwise very very cool. I wants one.

Yup - the pipes are in the mail:

http://www.chainreactionmoto.com/products/Triumph-Speed-Triple-Dual-High-Mount-Exhaust.html

http://www.chainreactionmoto.com/product_images/m/268/Bobs_S3_D1__79465_zoom.JPG

... and I'll remove the pegs and fill the holes. I'm not going to do a tail tidy. Although they look good, too much shit can get flung over the back seat.

(PS: I don't know why the image tags aren't working. Has SpankMe been playing "site upgrade"? :laugh: )

I've already fitted the radguard radiator guard... and nearly squished one of the horn wires in the process refitting the bolt - dumbass.

The progrip tank pad is already on too.

[Headbanger]

Nice pipes, damn expensive though.

[davebullet]

Nice pipes, damn expensive though.

True. Will cost $2,000 landed (assuming I get stung for GST as well).

The arrows are about that if you can get them discounted.

The only problem is I ordered the wrong midpipe... the demo model has a different midpipe and header connection than the one I got.

The 3 into 1 jobbies are a lot cheaper but they don't look the part IMHO, they cover up the rear wheel.

[Headbanger]

I have my eye on a MIVV 3-into-1.

http://www.pjsparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=24_161_240_249&products_id=544&osCsid=8803eb609d906aafa3e0e0aea9cca1f6

Like the look and the price.

[ernie953]

Nice bike DB. Got mine from them in June,awsome bike . I imported a Leo Vince low pipe and love the looks and sound. $700 all up, includes freight and GST. I also took the Ohlins shock of my previous bike and sent it to CKT to be reconfigered to fit the Speedy, $800 to do that. Loving it even more now.

[Headbanger]

I now have my eye on a Leo Vince low pipe:gob:

Where abouts is a good place to find one of them?

[ernie953]

Got mine from Motovation,Texas, $359 US.

[IdunBrokdItAgin]

Yup - the pipes are in the mail:

http://www.chainreactionmoto.com/products/Triumph-Speed-Triple-Dual-High-Mount-Exhaust.html

http://www.chainreactionmoto.com/product_images/m/268/Bobs_S3_D1__79465_zoom.JPG

... and I'll remove the pegs and fill the holes. I'm not going to do a tail tidy. Although they look good, too much shit can get flung over the back seat.

(PS: I don't know why the image tags aren't working. Has SpankMe been playing "site upgrade"? :laugh: )

I've already fitted the radguard radiator guard... and nearly squished one of the horn wires in the process refitting the bolt - dumbass.

The progrip tank pad is already on too.

Congrats on the new bike. Looks very nice.

I like your choice of new pipes too - black pipes go well with the black engine IMO.

I plan to "speed" up my street triple next weekend. I'm switching over the throttle tube to one from a speed triple. Perks things up a bit apparently (less movement from closed to full open). Just a shame it won't also supply all that lovely speed triple torque I hear so much about.

[Owl]

Congrats Dave and it looks great!:yes:

What a bloody shame about that different header though. I wonder if they've added SAI to the bike as well.:shutup:

[John_H]

Yup - the pipes are in the mail:

http://www.chainreactionmoto.com/products/Triumph-Speed-Triple-Dual-High-Mount-Exhaust.html

http://www.chainreactionmoto.com/product_images/m/268/Bobs_S3_D1__79465_zoom.JPG

... and I'll remove the pegs and fill the holes. I'm not going to do a tail tidy. Although they look good, too much shit can get flung over the back seat.

(PS: I don't know why the image tags aren't working. Has SpankMe been playing "site upgrade"? :laugh: )

I've already fitted the radguard radiator guard... and nearly squished one of the horn wires in the process refitting the bolt - dumbass.

The progrip tank pad is already on too.

Where did you get the radiator guard from?

[davebullet]

Congrats Dave and it looks great!:yes:

What a bloody shame about that different header though. I wonder if they've added SAI to the bike as well.:shutup:

The front of the midpipe is fatter too.... so I wonder? I havent't looked too closely.

I didn't get a chance to take her out today.... but she got a nice polish instead :-)

[davebullet]

Where did you get the radiator guard from?

http://www.radguard.com.au/product_info.php?cPath=32_15&products_id=157

They have one for the hyo 650R as well:

http://www.radguard.com.au/product_info.php?cPath=32_10&products_id=212

[davebullet]

I now have my eye on a Leo Vince low pipe:gob:

Where abouts is a good place to find one of them?

I agree with motovationusa.com - they seemed to have the best price around (I don't know about their international shipping though, but presume FedEx / USPS is all the same anyway).

This is a good overview thread on available exhausts where I got a few ideas. A few 3-into-1 pipe options here:
http://www.thespeedtriple.com/Forums/index.php?topic=1720.0

[ernie953]

Before and after, shock and pipe. Money well spent.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q242/Zitchu/IMG_0144.jpg

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q242/Zitchu/IMG_0160.jpg

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q242/Zitchu/IMG_0158.jpg

[Corse1]

Before and after, shock and pipe. Money well spent.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q242/Zitchu/IMG_0144.jpg

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q242/Zitchu/IMG_0160.jpg

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q242/Zitchu/IMG_0158.jpg

What was the shock on previously that you had rebuilt to suit? I can get a Street triple ohlins but I think there are two many differences with stroke length etc.

Nice looking pipe:yes:

[ernie953]

Had an Ohlins on my Z1000 which i removed before selling. Sent it to CKT and it had to be completly changed to suit the Speedy.

[davebullet]

Just threw the Chain Reaction Moto dual underseat muffler and black midpipe on the Speed Triple. Looks wonderful. Pics to follow.

Thanks to Owl - managed to connect the laptop to the ECU and download the factory map. I have an Arrows high mount to load as well as a modified Aus map which looks like it runs a little richer incase the Arrows is too lean.

Can't wait to upload the new map and try it out.

As a bonus, I can wreck the look and refit the Ventura rack for practicality (I didn't think it was going to fit again).

PS: Geez the factory trash cans ARE heavy by comparison!

The sound? - sadly doesn't compare to the SV650 (not that I was expecting a triple to). There's just something about a v-twin with a 2brothers setup......

[Owl]

The sound? - sadly doesn't compare to the SV650 (not that I was expecting a triple to). There's just something about a v-twin with a 2brothers setup......

:gob:

Like comparing a growling panther to a bear taking a dump in the woods:facepalm:

Well done on hooking up TuneECU and finally getting the exhaust sorted. I'm looking forward to the pics:yes:

[davebullet]

:gob:

Like comparing a growling panther to a bear taking a dump in the woods:facepalm:

Well done on hooking up TuneECU and finally getting the exhaust sorted. I'm looking forward to the pics:yes:

Hehe. Still a nice sound. I'm just a bit partial to the v-twin thump.

On song (full noise) the CRM's will open up the sound nicely. I took out the baffles (don't know why I bothered ordering them) as they don't mute it much.

I'm going to load map 20275 tonight (I think that is the arrows high mount - no SAI / catalyst). Al - I know you said you thought my bike did have SAI - but it is loaded with 20240 (no SAI) tune.

Seemed to start up with the stock tune fine. Some people complain of a long turnover time when cold before firing, but not so. Also tends to happen on older bikes / bikes with more kays.

[Owl]

Al - I know you said you thought my bike did have SAI - but it is loaded with 20240 (no SAI) tune.

Seemed to start up with the stock tune fine. Some people complain of a long turnover time when cold before firing, but not so. Also tends to happen on older bikes / bikes with more kays.

I certainly did think that, as you have a lot of stuff connected to the SAI inlets:scratch:

Mine was always consistently poor with cold starting too, but much better now with the 4 gauge cables.

[davebullet]

I certainly did think that, as you have a lot of stuff connected to the SAI inlets:scratch:

Mine was always consistently poor with cold starting too, but much better now with the 4 gauge cables.

I trust what you saw. What is bizarre is it is loaded with a non-SAI tune.

I would have thought a non-SAI tune in an SAI bike would cause an ECU warning or fault? I definitely know what the SAI looks like (based on the service manual) so may take a radiator cowl off for a closer look.

PS: I was surprised at how accessable the cable was and fuse box (and labelled) for removing both park and main headlamp fuses for the "ECU surgery". Maybe British bike manufacturers are employing germans or japanese engineers?

Still the radiator cowls are held on by 3 completely different screws (sizes / lengths) on the new models which proves Hinkley origin! (to do that, a brit worker must have had their hands on assembly at some point :laugh: )

[Owl]

I would have thought a non-SAI tune in an SAI bike would cause an ECU warning or fault?

It would cause a fault code, in fact several "Unknown" fault codes. Been there, done that with the SAI tune Bob supplied for me:facepalm: I didn't know any better then,:innocent: but it still started.

Something weird about yours, cause it's got the cat too:blink:

[davebullet]

Uploaded the arrows tune and got back from a wee blat.

It might be my mindplaying tricks, but seems to want to rev more willingly and had a bit more get up and go. Can't say I really notice the weight difference.

By god she backfires on decel. I mean a real wallop when you come off about 8 grand. She drops to 5 then BANG! Not the best thing to do in the burbs - especially next to the local police station :laugh: Fun for now, but it might wear a bit thin after a while

[been_there]

Love that backfiring...
Tune ECU is awesome and has got some great support people out there if u get stuck. Has helped me diagnose a temperature sensor fault, clear error codes...now to change to a new map

[davebullet]

Love that backfiring...
Tune ECU is awesome and has got some great support people out there if u get stuck. Has helped me diagnose a temperature sensor fault, clear error codes...now to change to a new map

The instructions are a bit inadequate. I followed them but it left my ECU in program mode and the bike wouldn't start.

HEre's what you need to do

Plug in cable
Start TuneECU
Pull headlight fuse (save battery - Keihin ECUs don't like a voltage drop)
Turn on ignition (do not start bike)
Connect from TuneECU
Read your map (to back it up if you haven't already)
Open your new map file
Download to the bike
When finished - select disconnect from the menu. This is important you do this before turning off the ignition as it "closes" the program mode on the ECU (mistake I made)
Turn off the ignition
Put headlight fuse back in
Wait 10 - 15 seconds
Turn on ignition
Reconnect with TuneECU
Select TPS Reset (takes about 30 seconds for the menu item to come up). The TPS reset is instantaneous
Once reset and with Tune ECU still connected - start your bike
Watch the TPS indicator at the bottom left corner of the TuneECU screen. When it goes green (after about 5 - 8 minutes) the ECU has baselined the TPS
Disconnect ECU
Turn off bike
Disconnect computer from bike

Ride and see how it goes!