XLR125 questions...

[Willdat?]

Possibly stupid, but would be good to know!

First - front sprocket has 14 teeth as shown, not sure where to get a suitable 12 tooth replacement (I don't want to go to the local Honda dealer and ask, long story...), also nowhere else in Nelson open on a Sat afternoon! Would be good to try a 13 tooth front too, any obvious problems?

Second, last weekend I noticed oil leaking from bottom of engine (stator cover side). Took cover off today and noticed this built in flaw, does it serve a purpose other than slowly losing all my oil on the road?

[JATZ]

Go on, go to your local Honda stealership.:yes:

I'm sure they'd be glad to see more of your money :D

:rofl: :rofl:

sorry will, can't help with your questions, but can't resist a wee dig

[Willdat?]

Go on, go to your local Honda stealership.:yes:

I'm sure they'd be glad to see more of your money :D

:rofl: :rofl:

sorry will, can't help with your questions, but can't resist a wee dig

Thanks for the support! :shutup:

Also spot the bashplate that cooneyr helped me out with, a bit more functional than my 4" bar risers that seem to enhance my abillity to fall off...

[ADVGD]

First - front sprocket has 14 teeth as shown, not sure where to get a suitable 12 tooth replacement (I don't want to go to the local Honda dealer and ask, long story...), also nowhere else in Nelson open on a Sat afternoon! Would be good to try a 13 tooth front too, any obvious problems?

Two teeth up front is a big jump for a 125 cc gearbox and will certainly reduce your top end speed. A good rule of thumb (not 100% accurate) is 1 tooth on the front sprocket is equal to 4 teeth on the back sprocket. The change you're proposing would be the same as an 8 tooth increase on the back sprocket, that’s a big change, you'll be crawling along in 1st gear, but maybe that's what you're after??

[Willdat?]

The change you're proposing would be the same as an 8 tooth increase on the back sprocket, that’s a big change, you'll be crawling along in 1st gear, but maybe that's what you're after??

At the moment the gap between 1st and 2nd is huge. Also top speed is ~85km/h in 4th and 5th so I'm hoping that a reduction in sprocket size might actually give me a gain in top speed, or at least not much of a reduction, in exchange for an increase in pull at low speeds. I'd like to try both 12 and 13 tooth combinations to see what suits the bike best. It's never going to be a big distance tourer, just an inner city commuter bike with a bit of off road potential!

[NordieBoy]

What size is the rear sprocket?

Stock is 17/51 and the chain is a 130 link 428?

[Willdat?]

What size is the rear sprocket?

Stock is 17/51 and the chain is a 130 link 428?

Just went out and counted, rear sprocket has 50 teeth. I'd assume bike is all stock as it was very tidy when I first got it, original road bias tyres etc.

No idea on chain, or how to tell sorry?

[ADVGD]

At the moment the gap between 1st and 2nd is huge.
Unfortunately no sprocket combination change will fix this, what you are describing is this particular bikes gearbox ratios.


Also top speed is ~85km/h in 4th and 5th so I'm hoping that a reduction in sprocket size might actually give me a gain in top speed
Sorry mate, you going the wrong way. A reduction upfront will increase RPM at top end speed (and make it scream like a toddlers tantrum if you try to push it), a reduction on the rear will decrease RPM at top end speed (if the motor has the oomph to match the gearing)

[JATZ]

Sorry mate, you going the wrong way. A reduction upfront will increase RPM at top end speed (and make it scream like a toddlers tantrum if you try to push it), a reduction on the rear will decrease RPM at top end speed (if the motor has the oomph to match the gearing)

Wot E said.... unless you reduce the size of the rear sproket, that will gain top end speed.

Wot you should be doin is ripping the guts out of the muffler, maybe a bit of re-jetting, airbox mods :Punk: and most importantly a paint job :yes:

[Willdat?]

Unfortunately no sprocket combination change will fix this, what you are describing is this particular bikes gearbox ratios.

I'm not expecting it to fix it, but it should make it a little bit better, maybe :shifty: the reality is that I can have a play and see if it makes a difference for not a lot of $, and I have the worst case scenario of leaving it as is.



Sorry mate, you going the wrong way. A reduction upfront will increase RPM at top end speed (and make it scream like a toddlers tantrum if you try to push it), a reduction on the rear will decrease RPM at top end speed (if the motor has the oomph to match the gearing)

The theory I have in regards to this is, in 4th top speed ~85 km/h @ hopefully max power rpm

in 5th top speed is also ~85km/h, but @ hopefully a bit less than max power rpm.

By changing the front sprocket size I'm hoping that the top speed will remain in the same ball park ~80km/h in 5th, but @ around max power rpm. Essentially bringing the gears a bit closer together. If that doesn't explain what I mean well enough I may have to revert to MS Paint diagrams and wild hand gestures! :yes:

[ADVGD]

Increasing your rear tyre diameter will increase top speed. A cheap way of doing this is by duct taping a bunch of possums to your rear tyre effectively increasing overall tyre diameter. Ideally use dead possums as live possums are too noisy :yes:

[Padmei]

Hey Will
I had the same probs with the huge gap between 1st & 2nd on Gonzo. Unfortunately the only way around it is getting more horsepower so you can clutch it on 2nd. I got a good amount of extra hp with airbox, jetting & exhaust mods. With your bike I'm not sure if you'll get that increase in performance.

With all due respect Will you've been thru nearly 10 bikes in the last 2 years. Scrimp/ save/ hit the olds up for a loan & buy a DRZ350/400 for commuting & playing. Don't spend anymore money on your bike - you'll end up spending on bent & broken parts what you could put towards a bike more suited to the riding we do.:sunny:

[Padmei]

Increasing your rear tyre diameter will increase top speed. A cheap way of doing this is by duct taping a bunch of possums to your rear tyre effectively increasing overall tyre diameter. Ideally use dead possums as live possums are too noisy :yes:

That's bullsh*t I've been fitting live possums for years now -they're perfectly good - you & your dead possum ideas - Get your facts straight buddy :angry:Hummph.

Anyway I don't want this thread to deteriorate to a live vs dead possums tyre debate as most threads seem to nowadays

[ADVGD]

the only way around it is getting more horsepower
+1


Scrimp/ save/ hit the olds up for a loan & buy a DRZ350/400 for commuting & playing. Don't spend anymore money on your bike - you'll end up spending on bent & broken parts what you could put towards a bike more suited to the riding we do.:sunny:
+1

I understand where you're coming from in your last post Willldat, and you may get an improvement by dropping 1 tooth up front, but there is a lot of wisdom in what Padmei says above (excluding live possum suitability, make sure you use dead possums only). With your interest to get more from a 125cc my advice would be to buy a bigger capacity bike from the get go and you will never have any regrets. I know first hand how costly it is to increase performance from a small capacity bike, it hurts your pocket big time, and you always end up wanting more

[JATZ]

Yip.... Next rideout you should try the Boys DR250, good fun around Hira, done a D.B. on it no worries and seems indi, inez, indozs, bullet proof. Then try the DR350 :Punk: and if your reeeal good I'll let you take the 750 up Hurricane hill :gob:

[Padmei]

Will - stay away form DR250s REPEAT stay away from DR250s!!:yes:

[Willdat?]

Will - stay away form DR250s REPEAT stay away from DR250s!!:yes:

Yes that lesson does poke me in the eye everytime I go into the garage...

I think last weekend was a bit of an eye opener in terms of what I've still got to learn as a rider (and a farkler too - sorry Colin!). At my current level of riding ability I'll just be falling off faster on a bigger bike. My off on the way down Hurricane hill (the one where it slipped into neutral and ran away on me into a ditch) would have ripped the radiators off a DRZ400.

The sprocket question was to experiment while I've got the stator cover off (also covers the front sprocket :blink::blink:). As it stands I still don't know where to get 12/13 teeth ones so I can't do it anyway!

Anyone know what that little channel is in the OP can I just fill it with knead it?

[cooneyr]

Gidday Will. Get a JT sprocket which any bike shop should be able to get their hands on. I'm pretty sure I got a JTF259 (http://www.jtsprockets.com/52.0.html?&L=0&sel_uid=4755&p=) 12 to 17 tooth. Will see if I still have the 13 tooth I took off in the garage to confirm the JT number. Edit - yep JTF259 is the right one.

As for the oil leak there are three seals behind the cover that could be the issue. The main crank shaft seal which is in a bolted on carrier behind the flywheel (can see one of the 8mm bolt in your pic, forward of flywheel). The second is a small O ring behind netural switch (the thingame with the green wire in your pic). Just use a pair of plyers an pull the switch out. Be gentle with the plyers cause it is plastic. Turn it as you pull helps too. The third seal is an O ring on the oil filter bypass. Again behind the flywheel. Single 10mm bolt (lower right when looking at where flywheel was). This is a stupid system as it has a single off set bolt. When you put it back in give it a tap with a hammer for every turn or two of the bolt else it will likely jam/bend/break.

I replaced all of the seals but I suspect it was the O ring on the oil filter bypass. My suggestion is to give the whole area a really good clean (CRC) go for a ride around the block (don't bother putting the cover on) then check where the oil is coming from and replace the seals as needed.

All of this can be done with a basic socket set, plyers and a suitable instrament for removing the flywheel (tap with a soft hammer or a block of 4x2 or similar loosens it :D)

Cheers R

[cooneyr]

....Anyone know what that little channel is in the OP can I just fill it with knead it?

Don't fill that channel. In fact make sure it stays open. It works as an oil drain (obviously) but it also lets water out if you dunk it or condensation. There is no gasket on that side cover so it will not keep water out even if you seal the drain.

Cheers R

[Willdat?]

As for the oil leak there are three seals behind the cover that could be the issue. The main crank shaft seal which is in a bolted on carrier behind the flywheel (can see one of the 8mm bolt in your pic, forward of flywheel). The second is a small O ring behind netural switch (the thingame with the green wire in your pic). Just use a pair of plyers an pull the switch out. Be gentle with the plyers cause it is plastic. Turn it as you pull helps too. The third seal is an O ring on the oil filter bypass. Again behind the flywheel. Single 10mm bolt (lower right when looking at where flywheel was). This is a stupid system as it has a single off set bolt. When you put it back in give it a tap with a hammer for every turn or two of the bolt else it will likely jam/bend/break.

I replaced all of the seals but I suspect it was the O ring on the oil filter bypass. My suggestion is to give the whole area a really good clean (CRC) go for a ride around the block (don't bother putting the cover on) then check where the oil is coming from and replace the seals as needed.

All of this can be done with a basic socket set, plyers and a suitable instrament for removing the flywheel (tap with a soft hammer or a block of 4x2 or similar loosens it :D)

Cheers R

Thanks Ryan...so what you're saying is that there shouldn't be oil in there at all? Makes sense as to why it's so much cleaner than the DRs stator area!

Wife is away until 6 tonight, I reckon I can tidy the house and sort that today!

[Willdat?]

Don't fill that channel. In fact make sure it stays open. It works as an oil drain (obviously) but it also lets water out if you dunk it or condensation. There is no gasket on that side cover so it will not keep water out even if you seal the drain.

Cheers R

Bizarre, mine does have a gasket, but what you're saying makes complete sense. I thought that was the source of the leak rather than a indicator.

Awesome, thanks heaps!

I'm going to play with a can of CRC now, I shall be back!

[cooneyr]

One more thing. I think I ended up putting two seals (the old one and a new one) on the oil filter bypass in frustration. Still not leaking now (I ride with the new owner occasionally).

[ADVGD]

Will - stay away form DR250s REPEAT stay away from DR250s!!:yes:

Will - stay away form Padmei REPEAT stay away from Padmei. He offers bike selection advice yet rides a KLR :laugh:

[Willdat?]

Will - stay away form Padmei REPEAT stay away from Padmei. He offers bike selection advice yet rides a KLR :laugh:

I have a 1988 Suzuki DR250S that sometimes goes that owes me close to 5k :shutup: so he speaks the truth! If I get all my jobs done today I may have a look at ordering a carb kit for it :yes:

And in fairness to Padmei he has tried to make it look like something other than a KLR with the Tenere stripe and R1 pipe :laugh:

[NordieBoy]

Will - stay away form Padmei REPEAT stay away from Padmei. He offers bike selection advice yet rides a KLR :laugh:

He rides lots of bikes but owns a klr...

[Transalper]

...
Second, last weekend I noticed oil leaking from bottom of engine (stator cover side). Took cover off today and noticed this built in flaw, does it serve a purpose other than slowly losing all my oil on the road?
If the stator is supposed to be in a dry area (and I think it is) then the designer flaw would be a designer drain hole designed to allow oil out if the oil seal behind the stator around it's shaft starts to fail.
When the seal is starting to wear it lets oil through and that's the only way you will know the seal is failing is when oil starts dripping from that hole....
The F650 I use to own had the same arrangement with the water pump. When the seal started to fail coolant started dripping from a little hole under pump housing to tell me trouble is looming.

Edit: I see the question was already answered on page 2.

[Woodman]

How the hell did this turn into a KLR bashing thread.

Will, you would be fine on a bigger bike, and anyway seeing the xlr run away on you down hurricane hill was a highlight of my day.

Anyway those offs are like gold in an educational sort of way. Unless your the kind of person who can study and learn.

[ADVGD]

How the hell did this turn into a KLR bashing thread.

Crickey, sorry about that, I was at my keyboard and the words just sprang from my fingers as if it was gods work... who am I to contest such authority :p

[Padmei]

He rides lots of bikes but owns a klr...

Yep you took the words out of my mouth:yes:

I love riding OP bikes & have only found a couple that aren't to my taste (or riding ability more honestly).

The only reason I would steer Will away from the DR250s is his past problems with his one ( & a mate has alson found a similar unknown problem with his DR250) Nordies DR650 & the others DRZ 350s& 400s rock!!

BTW KLRs are ghey & have too much plastic & too heavy & butn oil & blah blah blah but Feck I have a good time on mine:Punk: Wahooo!

Anyway as you were & hope you got the house clean today Will?

[warewolf]

Sorry mate, you going the wrong way. A reduction upfront will increase RPM at top end speed (and make it scream like a toddlers tantrum if you try to push it), a reduction on the rear will decrease RPM at top end speed (if the motor has the oomph to match the gearing)The last bit is the critical thing. The motor don't have the oomph so Will is correct.

Current gearing is too tall to pull 5th beyond 4th. Shortening it a bit may let 5th rev up in to power and add some speed.

13T will pull 4th's top speed down to 79km/h.
12T will pull 4th's top speed down to 73km/h.

Possibly 5th can pull away from one of those lower speeds, build revs/power and keep going past 85km/h.

[Willdat?]

Will, you would be fine on a bigger bike, and anyway seeing the xlr run away on you down hurricane hill was a highlight of my day.

Anyway those offs are like gold in an educational sort of way. Unless your the kind of person who can study and learn.

I'm pleased that someone else saw it, it felt quite surreal watching it, did it ever gain speed quick!


Anyway as you were & hope you got the house clean today Will? Yup, and the car cleaned and the lawns mowed Han just got back from a week with her parents so I'm up about a million brownie points at this stage :love:

Always good to have these up your sleeve when you need to sell the "it would be safer ifI had a bigger bike" yarn :yes:

[ADVGD]

I'm pleased that someone else saw it, it felt quite surreal watching it, did it ever gain speed quick!
Always good to have these up your sleeve when you need to sell the "it would be safer ifI had a bigger bike" yarn :yes:

A lot of wisdom is gained from each and every crash if you take the time to evaluate what went wrong and how to avoid it next time. According to my crash record I should be a very wise man, however people openly tell me otherwise :blink:

You'll be blown away at how quickly your riding improves with a more powerful bike, there are so many situations a handful of power can pull you back in line or pop that wheel up to clear an obstacle where an underpowered bike falls flat and the next thing you see is an array of upside down bike parts and tree branches as you somersault over the handlebars! I learned so much from spending a lot of time on a RM125 and dabbling in a bit of racing, but these days I am more of a chugger than a flat out nutter. Whatever bike you choose, one with some oomph will make riding a truck load easier, and more fun :Punk:

[cooneyr]

....Whatever bike you choose, one with some oomph will make riding a truck load easier, and more fun :Punk:

There is a limit to this though, in that it is easier to ride a slow bike on rough/tight terrain that a fast bike. A happy medium is where it is at i.e. why 400-650ish sized bikes are popular. This is of couse unless you have a need for a larger bike like lots of road km's or reguarly carry a pillion etc.

[Willdat?]

There is a limit to this though, in that it is easier to ride a slow bike on rough/tight terrain that a fast bike. A happy medium is where it is at i.e. why 400-650ish sized bikes are popular. This is of couse unless you have a need for a larger bike like lots of road km's or reguarly carry a pillion etc.

Agreed, and thanks heaps for the step by step instructions Ryan. It was the Neutral bung/seal that had slipped out and was weeping oil (I think from my bridge slide the weekend before!).

How much flex should the weedy little forks that this bike has have?

Cheers

[NordieBoy]

Flex is fine.
Flex with "clunk" isn't.

[JATZ]

How much flex should the weedy little forks that this bike has have?

Cheers

Maybe you should try the CT next time we're out. The only front suspension it's got is fork flex :shit:
Also thought.... I could count the number of times I've fallen off the Big on 1 hand, maybe a wee bit of hand #2 :D
I would run out of fingers and toes counting the times I've fallen off the CT.
It doesn't matter the size of the bike, it's how you ride it

[warewolf]

How much flex should the weedy little forks that this bike has have?Dunno 'bout 'should' but they will have lots :yes:

[fossil]

Go on, go to your local Honda stealership.:yes:

I'm sure they'd be glad to see more of your money :D

:rofl: :rofl:

sorry will, can't help with your questions, but can't resist a wee dig

I remember that. Have you (wildcat) fixed your DR? From memory you and your group of experts (mates) slated that motorbike shop and came up with an easy fix yourselves. I am sure everyone would be interested to know what the Shop said when you pointed out how easy and cheap it was to fix and how great your bike goes.

[warewolf]

I am sure everyone would be interested to know what the Shop said when you pointed out how easy and cheap it was to fix and how great your bike goes.At least his mates didn't charge thousands of dollars to 'fix' stuff that didn't fix the bike.

[fossil]

At least his mates didn't charge thousands of dollars to 'fix' stuff that didn't fix the bike.

So the bike isn't going?

[NordieBoy]

So the bike isn't going?

I think the best reply to that is...

"Occasionally"...

[cooneyr]

So the bike isn't going?

I think the story had better be finished. From what I know it isn't going because the DR was removed from the shop to stop them spending good money after bad. Is that right NADS?

[Padmei]

I remember that. Have you (wildcat) fixed your DR? From memory you and your group of experts (mates) slated that motorbike shop and came up with an easy fix yourselves. I am sure everyone would be interested to know what the Shop said when you pointed out how easy and cheap it was to fix and how great your bike goes.

Thats not entirely correct. Not all of his mates slated the shop & there was & stll is no easy fix.

[CrazyFrog]

Will, this was on TM and has been offered for $1550..... there are bargains out there if you look. Let me know if you're keen.
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=311431351

[NordieBoy]

Woah. Good deal.

[Willdat?]

I remember that. Have you (wildcat) fixed your DR? From memory you and your group of experts (mates) slated that motorbike shop and came up with an easy fix yourselves. I am sure everyone would be interested to know what the Shop said when you pointed out how easy and cheap it was to fix and how great your bike goes.

I don't know if anyone ever claimed it was an easy fix, however the mistakes made that required almost 50 hours of labour on the clock, to leave the bike not running reliably at the end has left me unable to recommend their services.


So the bike isn't going?

Since coming out of the shop the bike has run on several occasions (including last night!). I'm not a mechanic, nor do I claim to be, but it's getting there!


I think the story had better be finished. From what I know it isn't going because the DR was removed from the shop to stop them spending good money after bad. Is that right NADS?

It had to be removed from the shop because there was no money left in the pot to fix it, I spent $3k on the bill, and took it back to the shop a few days later with the bike still not running when hot. The shop in question spent another 15 hours (at their cost) on the bike and couldn't get it to run reliably and they gave up.


Will, this was on TM and has been offered for $1550..... there are bargains out there if you look. Let me know if you're keen.
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=311431351

Cheers Ward, I'm realistically a bit stuck until wife goes back to work. Going to try and get a carb kit for the DR250, if that doesn't work I'm rewiring the bike extremely slowly!

[Willdat?]

Woah. Good deal.

That's why it's sold already, that's a crazy good deal!

[Woodman]

Shite, that is a good deal. Will have to try this trademe thing one day.

[Willdat?]

bits4bikes.co.nz got me two front sprockets, a 12 and 13 tooth, $9.50 each, no shipping, just picked up from filcos. 12 tooth is not correct fitment but 13 tooth is on. Managed 90km/h into the strong southerly yesterday along the bypass...14 tooth was 80 km/h tops :eek:

Kinda want to head up Hurricane hill again, but probably need to sort my bar risers before that (with the 4" of rise the slightest tap of the bars, ie. when I drop it means the throttle gets wound open every time I turn the bars).

Getting wifey back into painting pretty pictures so may be able to increase pocket $ soon...

[warewolf]

Just found this, from Volvo P1800 (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volvo_P1800):


Cars sold without overdrive had a numerically lower geared differential, which had the interesting effect of giving them a somewhat higher top speed (just under 120 mph) than the more popular overdrive models. This was because the non-overdrive cars could reach the engine's redline in top gear, while the overdrive-equipped cars could not, giving the latter a top speed of roughly 110 mph (177 km/h).

:D Sound familiar?