2 Stroke Bike Maintanance??? Pls Help ;)

[StoneChucker]

Ok, so I just bought a second bike, Picture Here (http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=4711) (ugly f***er on it is not me ;) ).

I have quite a few questions, all help much appreciated.

It's an 82 Suzuki A100, the details of the 78 version are below (still the same I think):

A 100 1978
Overall Length: 1 855 mm (73.0 in)
Overall Width: 760 mm (29.9 in)
Overall Height: 1 040 mm (40.9 in)
Seat Height: 780 mm (30.7 in)
Ground Clearance: 140 mm (5.5 in)
Wheelbase: 1 200 mm (47.2 in)
Dry weight: 83 kg (183 lbs)
Engine type: Air-cooled 98 cc 2-stroke, 9,3 hp (6,8 kW)/ 7.500 rpm. 4-speed.

What I need to know is, are there any special maintanance issues with a 2 Stroke engine? I see that it takes 650cc of oil in the engine block, but it also has a container marked oil just under the seat on the right hand side. Is this second container the fuel oil (the oil which is mixed with the fuel for combustion)? Do I just put normal 2 stroke oil in the engine, and the same oil in the "fuel oil" reservoir? Or do you get specific fuel oil? (my head hurts now...).

Do A100's have an oil filter? How often should the oil be changed?
Finally, is it normal for the brights to not work until you've got the revs up? I understand this is because it works off an alternator, which is supplied directly from the revs of the engine? I'm hoping I don't have an issue like Paul in NZ with my solid front foot pegs. Thats how it came standard, don't see how they can fail me on it. (The wof/rego only expired last month)

So far I must say I'm pretty impressed. I thought it might be sluggish, but for an 82, 100cc bike it pulls pretty well, more than adequate for the use I have planned for it. That is, bucket racing. It's almost too nice to use as a bucket, as it's in seriously good nick. A side cover off e-bay ($9 US) and it'd be practically restored! However, my plans are to bolt skateboard wheels all over it like chicken pox and go racing... Speaking of which, I went to go watch BungBung at the Kaitoke Kart track, and as I suspected I'm all for buckets now! Some guys are really competitive and others have bikes you could run faster than. All I plan to do is up my skill, and learn correct lines / carrying speed through corners. Maybe in the future I'll try street stock and then F3, if the racing bug bites hard.

[Two Smoker]

Use 10W40 (i think) for the gearbox, and two stroke oil in the other tank... change the oil every 4-6000kms... and top up the two stroke oil when empty...

[Racey Rider]

... and top up the two stroke oil when empty...

Before empty!

[Kickaha]

... and top up the two stroke oil when empty...

errrrrrrrrrrrrrr you'd be much better to top it up before it's empty :niceone:

[StoneChucker]

Use 10W40 (i think) for the gearbox, and two stroke oil in the other tank... change the oil every 4-6000kms... and top up the two stroke oil when empty...
So 10W40 in the engine block, and 2-stroke in the plastic reservoir marked oil? Sweet :niceone:

Hmm, not sure how you check oil level though, got no dipstick or window (from what I can see).

[rua]

don't check it, just change it, 650ml can't cost much, nice synthetic in the fuel mix now, apparently bad to mix mineral and synthetic,
good luck.

[StoneChucker]

Another interesting if not obvious point is the difference between big bikes, and small entry level learner bikes. This one is SO easy to manouvre in/out the shed (having some shitty lawn / mud issues at the moment, and the A100 goes through the mud easier, or I can just pick up the back end and carry it in!). It has a much tighter turning circle, is lighter and in general seems alot less of a "chore" to get out the garage and onto the road (I keep the R1 on paddock stands, my earthquake protection. That, with the mud made it a hassle to get out. Fixed the mud problem today, so that's not an issue anymore :Punk: )

Again, obvious, but you can see the reasons why small bikes are better to start with. Maybe it just seems so noticeable since I've come down in bikes, so to speak. Would hate to think of someone going from an A100 to 1000cc sports bike, with nothing in between as I doubt they would make it out their suburb without scaring themselves shitless, or worse!

[Marknz]

good onya SC, you'll have a ball racing on that thing.

I'm absolutely no use to you form a mechanical sense, but if you need any advice with respect to getting the bike setup to race and wire locked or whatever, drop me a line I'll be happy to come and take a look at it. That said, Eddie and Dave are probably your best options.

[StoneChucker]

good onya SC, you'll have a ball racing on that thing.

I'm absolutely no use to you form a mechanical sense, but if you need any advice with respect to getting the bike setup to race and wire locked or whatever, drop me a line I'll be happy to come and take a look at it. That said, Eddie and Dave are probably your best options.
Cheers Mark. I was under the impression that it didn't need wire locking, only all surface touching metal covered in plastic? I was going to go buy a dozen skateboard wheels and go mad with my drill and nuts-n-bolts.

But, I'll keep your offer in mind, cheers! :niceone:

Say, how do you gear up, or down, or whichever increases acceleration (and enables wheelies :devil2: ) Put a sprocket with more, or less teeth on the back, and/or front? You'd have to change the chain aswell right?

[Mr Skid]

Would hate to think of someone going from an A100 to 1000cc sports bikeThat'd be almost as bad as someone going from a CBR250 to a R1 :rofl:

[StoneChucker]

don't check it, just change it, 650ml can't cost much, nice synthetic in the fuel mix now, apparently bad to mix mineral and synthetic,
good luck.
Cheers! Yeah, I wouldn't mix them myself. Is that Synthetic 10W40 in the engine block, and synthetic 2 stroke in the plastic container?
S'cuse the multiple NuBee (tm) questions, but I have no clue :weird:

[StoneChucker]

That'd be almost as bad as someone going from a CBR250 to a R1 :rofl:
Lol, yeah, who the hell would be THAT stupid! :whistle:
PS: I love the "ring ding ding ding" of the 2-stroke A100 :Punk:

[Marknz]

Cheers Mark. I was under the impression that it didn't need wire locking, only all surface touching metal covered in plastic? I was going to go buy a dozen skateboard wheels and go mad with my drill and nuts-n-bolts.

But, I'll keep your offer in mind, cheers! :niceone:

Say, how do you gear up, or down, or whichever increases acceleration (and enables wheelies :devil2: ) Put a sprocket with more, or less teeth on the back, and/or front? You'd have to change the chain aswell right?

Jeesh, you've got all the speed aspects sorted haven't ya! From memory I used to gear my bucker in Aussie with a bigger front sprocket and smaller rear for the tracks like Eastern Creek and Phillip Island that had huge long straights, and when we were on tighht twisty go kart type tracks like the Oran Park Fig 8 then is was small front sprockets and HUGE rear sprockets. I used to have a ratio chart that told me what each combination would give me cause I had 2 front, 5 rear sprockets and two chains on the go at each meeting. sometimes if the slack can't be taken out of the chain with a rear axle adjustment, then we just swapped to a smaller chain... no what I mean?

[Coyote]

Damn you brought it! I wanted it :weep:

[StoneChucker]

Jeesh, you've got all the speed aspects sorted haven't ya! From memory I used to gear my bucker in Aussie with a bigger front sprocket and smaller rear for the tracks like Eastern Creek and Phillip Island that had huge long straights, and when we were on tighht twisty go kart type tracks like the Oran Park Fig 8 then is was small front sprockets and HUGE rear sprockets. I used to have a ratio chart that told me what each combination would give me cause I had 2 front, 5 rear sprockets and two chains on the go at each meeting. sometimes if the slack can't be taken out of the chain with a rear axle adjustment, then we just swapped to a smaller chain... no what I mean?
Yep :niceone: Not sure if I'd be doing that though, might give it a few weeks/months to practice as is, then think about doing all that! Hells bells mark, any more than that and I'd need a pitcrew ;)

[Marknz]

Nah, you'll get used to it in no time and learn how to make all the necessary adjustments in between races. It's bloody good fun, a really good learning experience and you'll gain a lot of self confidence to do things to the R1 as you go along. It's alot cheaper to make mistakes on the A100 and learn from them.

[k14]

You should have to lockwire the sump drain bolt and also the cap that opens up the oil filler hole. Those are the regs down here anyway.

[SPORK]

Sure you can handle it? I mean, that motor is gigantic! And you only just came off a zhitty R1 (drool :yes:) :bleh:

Good on ya for getting yourslef bucket racing. I saw a couple of buckets on a trailer today, a white one and a not-whtie one.

[Motu]

Just use ATF in the gearbox,you can buy it anywhere,choice for clutches and you'll gain .07 HP.

[StoneChucker]

Just use ATF in the gearbox,you can buy it anywhere,choice for clutches and you'll gain .07 HP.
Que? (ala Manuel in Faulty Towers)
What is ATF? And by gearbox you mean engine case?
si si ;)?

[Motu]

ATF = Automatic Transmission Fluid....autos are full of wet clutch packs and gears wizzing around,just like a motorcycle gearbox.You have no need for all the additives an engine oil gives in your gearbox - oh,you can buy special motorcycle gearbox oils,but ATF is cheaper and works just fine and dandy. The oil you are putting in your engine is for the gearbox/clutch only,the oil tank holds the engine lubricating oil - use the best you can get in there.

[XTC]

I ran ATF in the gearbox of my bucket racer and all my two stroke MX bikes. The oil in the engine cases is just for the gearbox/clutch. The crank/cylinder are lubricated by the oil mixed with the fuel or in your case injected into the inlet tract. You can cut the weight of your racer by going to premix and ditching the oil tank and oil pump etc. You will have to run catch bottles for overflow pipes and lockwire various stuff as tar racers don't seem to like fluids on the track. adds to the excitment in my opinion.

[Motu]

It's a good idea to dump the oil injection - but be warey on Spuzukis,I don't know about the A100,but on GP100 and most bigger Suzukis they run an oil feed to the left main,a slinger on this feeds the big end.Check to see if there is a small white pipe going to the top of the left case,if there is leave on the oil injection.I have heard you can take of the cable and let it run on RPM alone and then reduce premix,but was never game to try on my TS400,the injection worked just fine.

[Jantar]

Most of the responses her have already answered many of your questions, but I may be able to add a little bit more.

There should be a sight glass in the plastic side cover that shows you when the CCI (Suzuki terminolgy for Cylinder & Crankshaft Injection) Oil level is low. The A100 was origionally designed to run using outboard oil as its engine lubricant, so when Super Two stroke oils became available they were just perfect. There is no need to go fully synthetic, however if you really want something just a wee bit different try some Shell M or Castrol R (vegetable oils).

The A100 does not have an oil filter as all engine oil is burnt and nothing is recycled.

From memory, the lights run from a separate coil in the magneto and therefore will only work when the engine is running.

A larger rear sprocket will help with accelleration. I wouldn't bother with gearing it up as the standard gearing will just about allow it to reach peak revs in top gear on a 5 km long straight with a tail wind.

Good luck with it. :niceone:

[StoneChucker]

Thanks for all the replies. Must say, knowing nothing about something you're about to tackle is a little daunting :weird:

[StoneChucker]

Damn you brought it! I wanted it :weep:
I know, you weren't the only one! I feel like I kinda snuck in before someone else, but had I waited till the middle of this week, I fear it would have been sold! And, these don't seem to come around often, I've been keeping an eye out since the first bucket thread was started. :wait: :wait: :whistle: :wait: :wait:

[FROSTY]

SC--Im sure the welly guys and other busket racers will have heaps of advise for ya but heres my tupeths worth.
1 A bucket racer is still a race bike -Do the stuff you would to any other racer.All the same rules apply to buckets as apply to any other race bike.
Whilst draining the oil its only a 2 minute job to drill the sump plug
Its also only a 10 minute job to run all the drain pipes off the bike into a coke can or similar.
One thing you MUST do is make sure the ends of the handlebars are plugged.
As I recall the a100 just had rubber grips over tubular bars.
The easy way is just to hammer a couple of plastic wine corks into the ends of the bars
If the pegs have the normal full rubber covers theyre fine for bucket racing but youll wear em out pretty fast,
I'd buy the stickyest set of tyres you can for that sized rims -Youll only need one set per season -or more
Tell ya what you're unlikely to need more crash knobs on one of those bikes
Remember dude with bucketting -KISS

[Al]

Good luck with the "new racer"!
I remember a few years back at Kyalami they had a special race for "delivery bikes", A100, B120, etc. Was a hoot to watch as the delivery riders were a fearless bunch, open faced helmets and shiny leather shoes :ride:

Al

[dhunt]

Hey if anyones interested we've got a couple Ax100's going cheap. One in non going state - looks like the magneto or something. Other goes fine. No rego/wof. Currently cluttering the garage up. Any one interested?

[Skunk]

Hey if anyones interested we've got a couple Ax100's going cheap. One in non going state - looks like the magneto or something. Other goes fine. No rego/wof. Currently cluttering the garage up. Any one interested?
Very interested... PM me. Now, like. Or read my PM to you.

[Eddieb]

It's an 82 Suzuki A100, the details of the 78 version are below (still the same I think)

If you lie flat on it like superman you should just about get about 105Km out of it.

One thing to keep an eye on with A100's is rust/rot around the headstock, if there appears to be a bit get it looked at and welded up, otherwise they are a fun bike. I'm sure with a better exhaust with a proper expansion chamber you could get a bit more go out if one.

[merv]

I had a 1970 A100 way back when many of you probably weren't born and just to add one comment if I remember rightly to check the gearbox oil (which Stoney is calling the engine block) there was a removable bolt that allowed you to check that the oil was up to the level of that hole. If not you put a bit more in until the oil leaked out the hole, then put the bolt back in.

[speedpro]

All I plan to do is up my skill, and learn correct lines / carrying speed through corners.

Carrying speed through corners - on an A100 :rofl:

You can't have had too good a look at the swingarm or shocks yet. It'll certainly 'up your skill' though. If you can stay on it consider that your skill has been upped.

You can make them go REAL fast. Years ago Suzuki NZ actually had genuine Suzuki race barrels for them with a bridged exhaust port. Cost in about 1994 was $15. A mate and I scored a fully worked A100 with the race kit forks/wheels and motor for I think $50. I'm pretty sure I could find all the specs somewhere.

[StoneChucker]

Carrying speed through corners - on an A100 :rofl:

You can't have had too good a look at the swingarm or shocks yet. It'll certainly 'up your skill' though. If you can stay on it consider that your skill has been upped.

You can make them go REAL fast. Years ago Suzuki NZ actually had genuine Suzuki race barrels for them with a bridged exhaust port. Cost in about 1994 was $15. A mate and I scored a fully worked A100 with the race kit forks/wheels and motor for I think $50. I'm pretty sure I could find all the specs somewhere.
Yes, but can you find me the race kit? PLEASE ;)??
Hey EddieB, how would I got about souping up the A100? (EDIT, as in what sort of exhaust and what sort of expansion chamber? Where from?)

[speedpro]

Whatever you do, do NOT just get the files out and rip into the exhaust port. Figure out what you want, or what the engine will handle, and then everything you do has to be to achieve that goal. I wouldn't think that the crankshaft would handle much more than 10-11,000rpm, probably less, without reliability problems. Lots of compression with maybe a watercooled head, pipe, CDI, yaada yaada yaada etc etc. As the engine slopes forward you can do a thermosyphon watercooling setup and it'll work real well.

Tuning a 2-stroke will drive you nuts. Figure out what you want before you start.

[vifferman]

ATF = Automatic Transmission Fluid....autos are full of wet clutch packs and gears wizzing around,just like a motorcycle gearbox.You have no need for all the additives an engine oil gives in your gearbox - oh,you can buy special motorcycle gearbox oils,but ATF is cheaper and works just fine and dandy.
Aahh!! {Cogs click into place} :niceone:
I used to run ATF in my Elsinore's crankcase and forks, because someone recommended it, and it ran fine on it, but I never knew whether it was crapola or not.

[StoneChucker]

On such an old/simple bike, what level of skill would be required to dismantle an engine, and check if all's well?

The reason I ask is, when I accelerate there is a little "coughing" or lags in power. And, the engine sounds a little rough, almost like I can hear the piston going through the motions? But, I am comparing the sound to my current bike, as thats all I've got to compare it to! What does a healthy single cylinder two-stroke engine sound like?

I've already got my eye on points, gaskets, side covers and other A100 parts on E-Bay. Just can't find pistons. Hmm, what else is in an engine??? :weird:

[speedpro]

Forget the points. You need to ditch that whole pile of crap on the left end of the crank and fit a CDI from a motocross bike like a KX80. If you are going to hot it up the stock ignition just won't do it.

It's easy to check the engine condition, undo the exhaust pipe to cylinder clamp, undo the 4 little 6mm nuts holding the head and barrel on and pull the lot off to have a look.

[FROSTY]

On such an old/simple bike, what level of skill would be required to dismantle an engine, and check if all's well?

The reason I ask is, when I accelerate there is a little "coughing" or lags in power. And, the engine sounds a little rough, almost like I can hear the piston going through the motions? But, I am comparing the sound to my current bike, as thats all I've got to compare it to! What does a healthy single cylinder two-stroke engine sound like?

I've already got my eye on points, gaskets, side covers and other A100 parts on E-Bay. Just can't find pistons. Hmm, what else is in an engine??? :weird:
SC --and speedpro--Guys --at the moment please KISS it
I agree with speedpro re performance mods but SC -FIRST just get ya ass out on the track.
Clean out the exhaust baffle. Set the points,clean out the carbie , put some sticky rubber on and do some laps.
Otherwise you're gonna have a very very frustrating time in the gargre sorting out the bike and no actual race time.
Once you've done a meeting and a couple of practices then start working the bike.
If it was me Id see if I could buy a complete A100 motor and build it up from the ground up
Actually no I wouldnt -id suspend the rego -do the tyre thing and go have a bunch of fun.
When ive outgrown the bike -reregister it and sell it as a beginner bike for a newbee biker.
ill bet ya $1000 a better race bike will come up for sale within the bucket world.

[bungbung]

the engine sounds a little rough, almost like I can hear the piston going through the motions? But, I am comparing the sound to my current bike, as thats all I've got to compare it to! What does a healthy single cylinder two-stroke engine sound like?

It's in pretty good nick, Dave. That is what they normally sound like.

[MSTRS]

What does a healthy single cylinder two-stroke engine sound like?


Ring-ding-ding-ding-Ring-ding-ding-cough-braaaarrp (powerband just kicked in)

[speedpro]

Do what Frosty says :niceone:

Strip off anything that's chromed, guards, lights, instruments, keep going till it stops and then put the last bit back on. Get the best tyres you can and go for it. Don't worry about the brakes, they're fine.

[StoneChucker]

Cheers guys, you're a good bunch. It's great having so much knowledge at my fingertips!

Unfortunately I have to register it now, and ride it to each meeting and I don't want to fit a towbar onto my car. Will have to tape up the head lights and such at the track / parking lot / wherever.

I have decided I'll ride it until I can't (IF/when it dies- don't think suz made these to be raced), and then try fix it / recon the engine by myself (to learn) and then either get someone else to do it or buy another bike.

Whens the next bucket meeting guys/gals?

[Ixion]

Cheers guys, you're a good bunch. It's great having so much knowledge at my fingertips!

Unfortunately I have to register it now, and ride it to each meeting and I don't want to fit a towbar onto my car. Will have to tape up the head lights and such at the track / parking lot / wherever.

I have decided I'll ride it until I can't (IF/when it dies- don't think suz made these to be raced), and then try fix it / recon the engine by myself (to learn) and then either get someone else to do it or buy another bike.

Whens the next bucket meeting guys/gals?

What sort of car ? I've quite successfully carried small bikes like that in the boot. Take tank off (usually easy enough) and wheels. It's surprising how easy they go in the mod of a medium sized car. Used to do this with my Honda 125 in the Marina boot (shaddup and stop laughing - the Marina coupe wasn't so bad in its day)

[StoneChucker]

What sort of car ? I've quite successfully carried small bikes like that in the boot. Take tank off (usually easy enough) and wheels. It's surprising how easy they go in the mod of a medium sized car. Used to do this with my Honda 125 in the Marina boot (shaddup and stop laughing - the Marina coupe wasn't so bad in its day)
I wouldn't laugh mate, besides, haven't you heard? I'm the hairdresser. Doubt it would fit in the MX5's boot. My CD stacker takes up most of the boot. :rofl:

[bungbung]

Dave, fit a tow bar. They're quite useful to have. You'll also be able to do your bucket justice. Also, when you have a track day bike, you'll be able to tow it about.

[speights_bud]

Just out of interest... Any idea what sort of speeds you get out of each gear? on my 82 A100 Im currently getting about 60 in 2nd, 75 in 3rd, and then run out of driveway. (unfortunatly its far from road legal). Went overboard one day and managed 54km/h in 1st. :no: not healthy.