Indicators slow to work in cold weather

[ROBMW]

My indicators can take up to 10 secs to start blinking on cold days (<10°C). I have a new battery, my alternator is pumping out the required voltage, I've tested my indicator relay unit (placed in freezer for several hours) and I've cleaned and re-lubricated the switch but still no joy. Anyone had a problem like this that they managed to get to the bottom of?

In the summetime they work perfectly but as soon as the weather gets a bit colder the flashing delay time increases.:brick:

[rie]

...that is...so bizarre.

[HQfiend]

Sounds a bit like a dodgy earth in the indicator circuit. Cold weather makes the connection loose and warm weather tightens it up as the earthing bolt/switch/contact? expands and contracts.

[Robtharalson]

My indicators can take up to 10 secs to start blinking on cold days (<10°C). I have a new battery, my alternator is pumping out the required voltage, I've tested my indicator relay unit (placed in freezer for several hours) and I've cleaned and re-lubricated the switch but still no joy. Anyone had a problem like this that they managed to get to the bottom of?
Not as such, but there is a simple test you can do to isolate the problem: remove the flasher and short the two pins in the socket together. If it's a three wire type short the power and bulb leads together. All you need to do then is turn either side on and see if the bulbs come on immediately. If they do it's the flasher. If not it's either the power from the fuse, the switch, or a common ground is intermittent. The last is unlikely as you would see other circuits giving the same sort of problem -- usually the ground bus is connected to the chassis at one point, so if that connection is bad anything grounded by the bus would show similar symptoms.

Anyway, give it a shot and see what happens.

Rob

[nodrog]

I used to have this problem in the UK in the winter. I ended up taking it to a mechanic who said my indicator fluid was old. He said he replaced it and said that he had also mixed some antifreeze in with it which would stop it from icing up, worked wonders. :niceone:

Fanny

[BoristheBiter]

I used to have this problem in the UK in the winter. I ended up taking it to a mechanic who said my indicator fluid was old. He said he replaced it and said that he had also mixed some antifreeze in with it which would stop it from icing up, worked wonders. :niceone:

Fanny


I think you might have it backwards

He said indicator not radiator.:doh:

[nodrog]

I think you might have it backwards

He said indicator not radiator.:doh:

I am aware of what he said.



http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=6

Fanny

[BoristheBiter]

I am aware of what he said.



http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=6

Fanny

Very funny please carry on.

[rickstv]

Very good Auntfanny, best laugh all week. Everyone at my work is wondering why I burst out laughing, not least my boss.

Oops back to work.:nono:

Rick.:

[ROBMW]

Thanks Robtharalson I'll try what you said at the weekend and let you know how I get on.

Thanks also Fanny but I've already tried putting the flasher relay in the freezer for several hours and then connecting it straight away but it worked perfectly. I think it's a sealed unit so I'm not sure how to replace fluid in it anyway. With that in mind though I'm not going to discount this idea just yet!

Another piece of info I probably should have included in the original thread, is that there is a link between the flasher delay and cold airflow. If I stop on the side of the road for several minutes the flasher time delay reduces (not quite normal but significantly better) and the faster I go the delay increases as more cold air circulates around the bike.

I WILL get to bottom of this!:sherlock:

[nodrog]

Glad I could help :niceone:

Fanny

[imdying]

The temperature is a red herring.

[Robtharalson]

Thanks Robtharalson I'll try what you said at the weekend and let you know how I get on.

Another piece of info I probably should have included in the original thread, is that there is a link between the flasher delay and cold airflow. If I stop on the side of the road for several minutes the flasher time delay reduces (not quite normal but significantly better) and the faster I go the delay increases as more cold air circulates around the bike.

I WILL get to bottom of this!:sherlock:
Hopefully before it gets to the top of you!

Bubba fix: If the flasher doesn't work right in the wind, give it a jacket! Wrap about 5 layers of torn up towel around it, properly secured with way too much duct tape, and you're in. Makes for a nice cheery fire when the flasher overheats.

Boring fix: Replace the flasher. Duh.

Boring / Bubba fix: Go to the auto supply store and buy an electronic flasher for a car for one hell of a lot less than the stealership wants for the OEM part and kludge it in with whatever comes to hand, well secured with duct tape. The clock on the stove hasn't worked for years anyway and if the wires are long enough ... and I'll seal the yawning hole in the stove front with, uh, duct tape? Works for me.

Breaker fix: Wander around the nearest purveyor of the detritus of other's stupidity, bad luck, alcohol consumption, "Oh wow look at that girl! How does she get int ....... "Oooohhhhh what a pretty light.", and whatever else your vivid imagination can conjure up while riding, and find a flasher that will plug in, constantly aware that the breaker's mantra applies -- "Once it's out the door if it breaks in half you get to keep both halves."


I used to have this problem in the UK in the winter. I ended up taking it to a mechanic who said my indicator fluid was old. He said he replaced it and said that he had also mixed some antifreeze in with it which would stop it from icing up, worked wonders. :niceone:

FannySurprisingly, you're not too far from right. The main timing component in all modern flashers is an electrolytic capacitor, essentially a short term battery, and the electrolyte in there is a thick gelatinous liquid fluid. They are prone to erratic behaviour at low temperatures unless the fluid is mixed with propylene glycol -- that's right, anti freeze. Old or underspecified (low bidder) units are prone to degradation and problems as described.

All of the foregoing only applies if you have eliminated the most common cause of electrical problems -- Gremlins.

Keep the smoke in them wires!

Rob

[ROBMW]

:wings:Fixed it! Took the flasher off and shorted 2 of the 3 wires iaw the wiring diagram and instructions from Honda Hamilton. The indicators didn't light up when selected with the ignition on, so I tested the voltage across the switch on the handlebar and only got 7 volts! I then tested the continuity of the earth circuit and got a very, very low reading. I tested the earths of several other components on the same line and they were all weak so I eventually found where it was bonded to the chassis and cleaned it thoroughly and lubricated with copper grease. After replacing the wires the continuity was excellent and the indicators now work better than they've worked before.

Phew no major expense incurred and thanks to you all for the advice, I've learnt a thing or two as well.

[bcglobal racing]

Hello ALL.... ok is it a old, open close flasher or is it a ele flasher, if its the old open/close unit the cold will slow the unit down as the heat makes it open and when it cools it will close, but need to know what unit it is to help you more :yes:

[Latte]

Or it could be a bad earth (especially if you read the post above yours where he says it was a bad earth and he fixed it)

[HQfiend]

Aha Picked it!!!!:yes: