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BrianST1300
4th October 2010, 16:52
Hi all,
I'm returning to motorcycling, with a full license but it's been awhile, and I need to find an insurer (looking for comprehensive insurance). Of course, I can do the usual and phone around for a range of quotes, but any advice folks on here can give would be appreciated (especially if there is an outfit to avoid). Also, there maybe some threads elsewhere on this site on the subject but I can't seem to find them.

Thanks & cheers.

nathan.read
4th October 2010, 17:05
Dont know if its the best as I didnt phone around but I got comprehensive insurance for my Honda CX 400 custom (value $2,000) $212 per year, I have had my licence for 23 year but haddnt ridden for the last 5 years

psycho22
4th October 2010, 17:08
Give Kiwibike a ring. They have been hassle free to deal with so far and They are quite inexpensive compared to some other companies. ( For my age group anyway )

DEATH_INC.
4th October 2010, 17:14
+1 for kiwibike, they sorted me when no-one else would.

psycho22
4th October 2010, 17:17
+1 for kiwibike, they sorted me when no-one else would.

Yeah they were great to deal with. Haven't crash tested them yet but hopefully I won't need to anytime soon.:yes:

JimO
4th October 2010, 17:58
Dave Golightly at Vero

spajohn
5th October 2010, 08:07
Hi all,
I'm returning to motorcycling, with a full license but it's been awhile, and I need to find an insurer (looking for comprehensive insurance). Of course, I can do the usual and phone around for a range of quotes, but any advice folks on here can give would be appreciated (especially if there is an outfit to avoid). Also, there maybe some threads elsewhere on this site on the subject but I can't seem to find them.

Thanks & cheers.

John Baker were excellent for myself...I did need to join the BMW club to get a better discount, but no harm in that.

kiwifruit
5th October 2010, 08:15
John Baker

Gibbo89
5th October 2010, 11:25
NAC were cheap for my age group, AMI were good for me, i had previously had a scooter insured with them and so therefore had a discount on my next policy i took out.

but if you have already tried AMi, give NAC a ring

Bald Eagle
5th October 2010, 11:33
I was also a returning rider and had my Bandit insured with State $3.5k for $172:00 per year agreed value and they paid out no problem after my recent off ( hit & run disq driver ) .

Off bike shopping as soon as the bruises settle down.

mikemike104
5th October 2010, 11:38
NAC were cheap for my age group, AMI were good for me, i had previously had a scooter insured with them and so therefore had a discount on my next policy i took out.

but if you have already tried AMi, give NAC a ring

Agreed - Nac cut me a good deal, AMI are a great company to deal with (I'm a Lending Consultant so I'm dealing with insurers all day) but couldn't offer what NAC could (but i am on a learners till next week or so).

MSTRS
5th October 2010, 11:41
I am assuming you are over 30. Try Classic Cover in Hamilton.

nadroj
5th October 2010, 12:07
I am assuming you are over 30. Try Classic Cover in Hamilton.

Second that, or Kiwibike.

BrianST1300
5th October 2010, 13:10
Hey, thanks for the replies- very helpful.

Of course, the best insurance policy is to avoid having to use one, and the leathers, gloves, boots, and helmet I'm spending some serious dollars on at the moment.

But even though I'm older and hopefully wiser than when I road sports bikes thinking I was indestructible - accidents do happen (and of course over 50% of those are caused by car drivers).

MSTRS
5th October 2010, 13:45
... accidents do happen (and of course over 50% of those are caused by car drivers).

Accidents are rare. Crashes, on the other hand...
And the 'over half' comment will earn you a black mark from Katman.

Katman
8th October 2010, 15:11
accidents do happen (and of course over 50% of those are caused by car drivers).

:facepalm:




(Black mark duly noted).

MSTRS
8th October 2010, 15:18
For the record, 42% of bike 'accidents' are caused by other vehicles. In a lot of cases that will include some failing on the rider's part as well.

Katman
8th October 2010, 15:21
For the record, 42% of bike 'accidents' are caused by other vehicles. In a lot of cases that will include some failing on the rider's part as well.

Including single vehicle accidents?

:whistle:

MSTRS
8th October 2010, 15:26
Including single vehicle accidents?

:whistle:

Yep. Bike/car the figure becomes 67% car fault.

Katman
8th October 2010, 15:27
Including the single vehicle accidents that go unreported?

:whistle:

MSTRS
8th October 2010, 15:27
Figures shmigures...
If somehow we could stop all bike accidents due to rider fault, we'd still have crashes and we'd still get hurt.

Oscar
8th October 2010, 15:50
:facepalm:
At the risk of being a stuck record - don't shop for insurance by price, you'll get what you pay for.

p.dath
9th October 2010, 09:03
+1 for kiwibike, they sorted me when no-one else would.

+2 for Kiwibike.

http://www.kiwibike.co.nz/

They have a range of options. Cost comes down what you want cover for.

BrianST1300
21st October 2010, 16:27
Thanks for the comments. I take the point about not just focusing on price- obviously it is only if and when you need to claim that you find out how good an insurance outfit is. I phoned around pretty extensively and found that Kiwibike and Protecta offered the best rates and cover for the money. AMI were almost double with a $1000 excess!:facepalm:

I'm in my 40s, riding an ST1300, and have returned to riding after a long lay off. My starting point for the return to (hopefully safe) riding is to disengage ego before engaging first gear- you have to accept that your skills, intuition and reflexes take time to get back to where they once were.

BMWST?
21st October 2010, 18:37
Thanks for the comments. I take the point about not just focusing on price- obviously it is only if and when you need to claim that you find out how good an insurance outfit is. I phoned around pretty extensively and found that Kiwibike and Protecta offered the best rates and cover for the money. AMI were almost double with a $1000 excess!:facepalm:

I'm in my 40s, riding an ST1300, and have returned to riding after a long lay off. My starting point for the return to (hopefully safe) riding is to disengage ego before engaging first gear- you have to accept that your skills, intuition and reflexes take time to get back to where they once were.

in light of your last sentence why start again on a ST1300?

nadroj
21st October 2010, 20:50
Thanks for the comments. I take the point about not just focusing on price- obviously it is only if and when you need to claim that you find out how good an insurance outfit is. I phoned around pretty extensively and found that Kiwibike and Protecta offered the best rates and cover for the money. AMI were almost double with a $1000 excess!:facepalm:

I'm in my 40s, riding an ST1300, and have returned to riding after a long lay off. My starting point for the return to (hopefully safe) riding is to disengage ego before engaging first gear- you have to accept that your skills, intuition and reflexes take time to get back to ...NERE... where they once were.

A symptom of the aging process where we think our reactions are as good as they used to be only needs a game of nuckles with the offspring to confirm!

BrianST1300
22nd October 2010, 13:20
in light of your last sentence why start again on a ST1300?

Obvious question and one I thought about a lot before buying the bike.

The bike's heavy but you don't feel the weight that much once it's moving due to rake angle and length of wheel base. Superior braking, lighting, road presence and visibility compared with a 250. I also have other options available for dirt/ off road riding which is crucial to developing/refreshing riding skills.

Buying and selling bikes, say starting with a 250 then selling that, buying a 550-650 then selling that, then moving to a larger bike is a very expensive and time consuming exercise. Didn't have either the time or money for that.

If you have a brain then whatever the size of the bike, you ride within your limits. Speed is obviously crucial here. Most of the time I'm using my bike to commute to and from work at speeds under 100k.

Also doing riding course and (unlike most bikers I've seen in Dunedin) wearing leathers, boots, decent gloves, back protector, SHARP five star rated helmet.

So, overall, sure I take your point that it makes sense to start with a smaller bike, but in every other respect I'm adopting a conservative approach to my return.