Advantages versus disadvantages going tubeless for ADV riding?

[Waihou Thumper]

Hi guys. I was in the Motorbike shop this morning and had a chat to the all knowledgeable one...He mentioned that maybe I should consider making my wheels tubeless, it could be done easily enough and without too much expense...He rides Motard and street and finds it to be a non issue. It could be done as well with nobby tyres...
I know a few of you ride tubeless bikes etc - Nordie... but has anyone converted from tubes to no-tubes and what are the likes dislikes etc...please?

I would be interested to get the feel out there in the ADV world and thoughts from all of you...:)
There does seem to be some divided information out there especially with regard to the design of the spoke wheel etc and the chances of the tyre rolling off due to deinflation especially riding in differing terrain and decrease/increase air pressures etc.
The ADV site and Horizons site has some good information but I am interested to get the views of us Kiwi blokes out there..:)
Cheers all!

[NordieBoy]

Tubliss is very popular.

If they made a 17x2.5 rear I'd probably convert.

Less weight, no worries about pinch flats and easier to plug a tyre than fix/swap a tube.

Some slime in the tyre and nails won't be an issue anymore. You'll only know about them when you get back home and do a post ride check.

[Taz]

I haven't tried it myself but after reading up on it I personally wouldn't risk it with the tube type spoke wheels. A tube takes up very little room.

[Waihou Thumper]

I haven't tried it myself but after reading up on it I personally wouldn't risk it with the tube type spoke wheels. A tube takes up very little room.

I cannot see too much of an issue with spoked wheels. As long as the spokes are fully covered, tight and the wheel is true, the only real issue is the rim itself isn't it? The tyre not staying on if there was a leak or reduction in pressure?
If the spoke needs tightening, you could break the epoxy or whatever is sealing the inside and re-do?
I have heard good and bad, the good seems logical, the bad seems logical too...:)
You are right though, carrying a tube isn't an issue really, but wouldn't it be good to get the weight down, fix a flat in a few minutes....leaving the tyre on, providing of course you can see the hole..:)

[BMWST?]

AFAIK the big beef with tubeless is it may be very hard to inflate a tubeless tire on the side of the road/track when you have a complete flat

[bart]

My problem with tubeless is that most flats I've seen adventure riding are like this:

220869

good luck......

[NordieBoy]

All my flats have been sharp object type ones. Except for a couple of tube sidewall failures.

The performance aspect of tubeless is lost on the DR but the ease of fixing punctures aspect isn't...

Tubliss us the go of the versions I've seen.

[Waihou Thumper]

but the ease of fixing punctures aspect isn't...



Worth trying and if it doesn't work, just thow a tube back in....What have you lost? A few bucks I guess. I will get a definite quote to see what I am in for. The bike shop uses Harley Davidson heavy duty rim tape :facepalm: over the spokes, after sealing the rim/spoke...

[cooneyr]

Nordie is being a bit subtle I think.

http://www.tubliss.com/

No inflation issues on the trail with one of these.

[Phreaky Phil]

I think the "tubeliss" system is pretty cool. Having tubeless tyres on the GS has been fine but ive seen a couple of slashed tyres caused by sharp rocks and no amount of plugs will fill the hole. So carrying tubes on a long trip is still a must in my book. With a small hole like a nail or something, tubeless is way faster to fix than changing a tube.

[Waihou Thumper]

I think the "tubeliss" system is pretty cool. Having tubeless tyres on the GS has been fine but ive seen a couple of slashed tyres caused by sharp rocks and no amount of plugs will fill the hole. So carrying tubes on a long trip is still a must in my book. With a small hole like a nail or something, tubeless is way faster to fix than changing a tube.

$220 USD then I would have to pay the shipping to NZ from the Box....Bloody expensive aren't they? The video makes it look very easy too...I liked his wheel stand, gotta get something for my garage and do my own tyres.
If the tyres are 'slashed' as you put it or the side walls get damaged to that degree, no amount of tubes are gonna help either right?

These guys are the NZ Distributors...Will be interesting to see how much they are here in NZ 19x1.6 and 21x2.15...
http://www.sportspro.co.nz/default.aspx

$179.95...each, not too bad with the exchange rate....$99.00 USD/$179.95

[Ocean1]

Was quite interested in these: http://www.tireballs.com/about.php

But they seem not to have taken the market by storm. Pity, I think they offer advantages other than the obvious.

[Phreaky Phil]

If the side wall is cut you cut another bit of tube or whatever you've got and wrap it around your good tube where the cut in the sidewall is. It should stop the good tube being pinched by the cut in the sidewall. An old farmers trick. When we were in Alaska on the Dalton Highway (mainly dirt road that runs to the oil fields at the top) we saw 2 bikes with damaged sidewalls. One was a 1200GS It had taken him hours to ride 50km, stopping every few minutes to pump the tyre as much as possible and the ride till it was flat again. He had tried multiple plugs but the hole was to big. He had to wait another day at Prudhoe Bay and have a tyre flown up. Probably cost him $1000 for that puncture

[Waihou Thumper]

Was quite interested in these: http://www.tireballs.com/about.php

But they seem not to have taken the market by storm. Pity, I think they offer advantages other than the obvious.

Like multiple mousses...:)

[Waihou Thumper]

If the side wall is cut you cut another bit of tube or whatever you've got and wrap it around your good tube where the cut in the sidewall is. It should stop the good tube being pinched by the cut in the sidewall. An old farmers trick. When we were in Alaska on the Dalton Highway (mainly dirt road that runs to the oil fields at the top) we saw 2 bikes with damaged sidewalls. One was a 1200GS It had taken him hours to ride 50km, stopping every few minutes to pump the tyre as much as possible and the ride till it was flat again. He had tried multiple plugs but the hole was to big. He had to wait another day at Prudhoe Bay and have a tyre flown up. Probably cost him $1000 for that puncture

Funny how the simple tips can rectify issues out in the field...I don't mean airplanes either...+1 on the Farmers tip :)

[Taz]

Prices are on their site already. $180.00 each. Hasn't your sxc got an 18" rear?

http://www.sportspro.co.nz/products/1331-flat_protection/3919-neutech_tubliss_core.aspx

[Waihou Thumper]

Prices are on their site already. $180.00 each. Hasn't your sxc got an 18" rear?

http://www.sportspro.co.nz/products/1331-flat_protection/3919-neutech_tubliss_core.aspx

:facepalm: Reading too many different threads....:)

[NordieBoy]

Like multiple mousses...:)

Mitas do a mousse in sections..

Tyre Balls need to be lubed occasionally and unlike moussesss you can choose the pressure. But pumping up a dozen balls to the same pressure and installing them...

Tubliss is a rim sealing system and beadlock all in one. The only track side issue I see is seating the bead if you have to pop the tyre off for any reason but that's the same for any tubeless system.

Tubliss combined with the DR's rear bead lock would be a winner I think.

[Ocean1]

Tubliss combined with the DR's rear bead lock would be a winner I think.

Half a dozen No.12 panhead PK screws? :sick:

[NordieBoy]

Half a dozen No.12 panhead PK screws? :sick:

Don't be silly.

It's a Jap bike. They'd be metric.