Waterproofing Cordura riding gear?

[Monstaman]

Did a search and came back with FA.

In this modern age has anyone found a good way and product to reseal old gear?

I never expect it to be waterproof but water resistant would be groovy.

Any input would be welcome, thanks gents.

[Crim]

Hey Andi,

Why would you need waterproofing in Wanaka? - Oh, in case you travel, I spose...... anyhow - found this on the site......

Sno Seal wax is not the product you need. They make a two types of silicone spray for waterproofing material like Cordura etc., one is just a normal waterproofing silicone that yu have to reapply at regular periods to maintan waterproofing, whilst the other is a semi-permanent treatment.
Both very good products and available through most bike shops or outdoors shops. Nikwax also make a similar product that is equally as good.

Note that proper waterproofing silicone is quite different from the stuff you buy from Repco/Supercheap etc for making plastic & rubber shiny as it has significantly higher silicone content that oddly makes plastics etc., go dull!

Here's some linky's:

http://www.atsko.com/products/waterp...ter-guard.html
http://www.atsko.com/products/waterp...ter-guard.html

[Taz]

Here's what I did to ensure my old gear was waterproof again. Covered it with something that was.

[duckonin]

Unless your gear is lined with a waterproof membrane then there is no hope, if it leaks with that then take it back to place of purchase, if you bought it as being WATERPROOF,that would be even after twelve months as long as the gear has not been abused...After 12 months well the plan is on their side..

If you spend good money to buy quality then u expect the same..

There is no shit on the market that will keep anything waterproof bees wax oil or the like it will only stall the water for a little bit..:yes:

[Monstaman]

Hey Andi,

Why would you need waterproofing in Wanaka? - Oh, in case you travel, I spose...... ]

When I get my bracelet off and my parole finishes ..... :shutup: :laugh:

Which product was it as the links doesn't work (for me anyway)


Here's what I did to ensure my old gear was waterproof again. Covered it with something that was.

Groovy bike Taz ... well cool and I must say how well it matches your eyebrows :bleh:, agree can beat plastic, I use Motoline gear for that on the roady.


There is no shit on the market that will keep anything waterproof bees wax oil or the like it will only stall the water for a little bit..:yes:

Gear bought second-hand so ... its on me, not expected as waterproof although it does say it is 100% waterproof (1Tonne), I never believe it.

Not wanting waterproof just splash resistant really, got full wets.

Just need something that will fend off creek splash and puddles as at the mo the water after a 150 mm deep creek splash soaks my gruds, gear is all good nic so I would have liked it to have at least done that.

[Crim]

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/108588-Sno-seal-for-cordura

reckon you'd have a camping store or three down Wanaka way?

[dino3310]

every year i buy a can of Atsko silicon water guard has worked a treat for me i have been caught in torential rain and after a while there was some minor leakage (seams) but apart from that its been great, it wont block the water coming through the streched stitch in the crotch area but its been like water of a ducks back type thing with my 6 year old jacket, its getting on a bit now and im starting to notice the fabric stating to show its age so i dont know how long this stuffs gonna keep working.ive had rain suits in the past but i all ways end up ripping them in the rough stuff so i dont bother any more and for $19 a year i can water proof other stuff like the kids jackets/gloves etc.
worth a looksey, Hunting & Fishing NZ stores sell it.
even crc808 silicon spray will temporarely water proof for light stuff(but very slippery).
heres the Atsko stuff

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[Monstaman]

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/108588-Sno-seal-for-cordura

reckon you'd have a camping store or three down Wanaka way?

Sweet and yeap shitloads of places, just wonna get the right stuff.


every year i buy a can of Atsko silicon water guard has worked a treat for me i have been caught in torential rain and after a while there was some minor leakage (seams) but apart from that its been great

Perfect, not trying to make a diving bell from a fabric suit but just to stop a bit more than at the mo ... will have a crack at my boots and all .... now I will be as flash as Michael Jackson.:woohoo:

[dino3310]

221644 221644 221644

[vifferman]

Like has been said - if the fabric's worn and the weave is opening up, or the seams are, nothing will really make it 100% waterproof. My theory is it's best to keep water out in the first place, rather than rely on the waterproof lining. My old Teknic jacket had several places water could get in, due to multiple repairs, so after trying several products unsuccessfully, I just bought the green Scotchgard aerosol from the supermarket. This stuff is intended "for outdoor use, such as canvas tents" and was heaps cheaper'n SnoSeal or other brands, and had much more silicone in it.
To use it, I just hung up the jacket on a hanger outside, and completely drenched the outside with the Scotchgard, paying particular attnetion to seams. After leaving it to dry for about half an hour, I repeated the application. Seemed to work OK.

I've done a similar thing with my Macna jacket, but being leather, I treated the outside with NikWax. Even though it has a waterproof liner, once again I figure it's better to keep the rain out, and the Nikwax makes it showerproof and mostly rainproof.

[warewolf]

Here's my tried and proven system, built with the assistance of some retailers & distributors who handled warranty claims :yes: After 6 years of daily use, my Spidi Ergo suit was still completely water proof. Got the full treatment once a year. So does the replacement Spidi Tour GT, after 5 years of less intense use, it's still completely water proof.

The micro-pore membrane (goretex, h2out et al) has to be washed with the likes of Atsko sportwash (http://www.atsko.com/products/laundry-care/sport-wash-residue-free-detergent.html). It washes away completely. Normal detergents have comparatively large lumps of things like brighteners which clog the pores allowing water to wick through. Note, if you've got a well-used washing machine, don't suddenly use it for this stuff as you will get old detergent coming out of the machine, contaminating your nice micro-pore fabric. A new machine that's had regular flush cycles (rtfm) and sportwash use will be ok.

Ditto polyprop thermals or any other micro-pore fabric. Normal detergents have deleterious effects, as they say.

The outer cordura layer: again, wash with sportwash, not quite necessary, but hey you've got the stuff and it's a matched product. Ah, actually you'll probably have to do this, as not many suits have removable membranes like the Ergo... Dririder Rallycross?? Once dry, gentle iron to re-activate the water proof coating. You must raise it to 55 deg C at least once. Can be done also in a tumble dryer but can be hard to get the temperature up with an auto-sensing dryer. Usually you can re-activate 2-3 times before re-application is necessary.

Once a year or so, after washing & drying, re-apply the water proofing. I used to use Atsko Silicone Water Guard (http://www.atsko.com/products/waterproofing/silicone-water-guard.html), but it's a bit light-duty. They subsequently released Permanent Water Guard (http://www.atsko.com/products/waterproofing/permanent-water-guard.html) which is much better. Apply, drip-dry, then activate by raising to 55 deg.

The shoulders cop the worst of it. Once I see the water no longer beading on the shoulders of the jacket, it's time for a little TLC.

Leather gloves/boots get SnoSealed (http://www.atsko.com/products/waterproofing/sno-seal.html). Sometimes I cheat and give them a quick spray with a water guard as a booster.

Any similar products should do the job, just read the directions especially regarding activation.

I have to agree that the best water defense is another 100% usually non-breathable layer. PVC oversuit, rubber wash-up type gloves, and rubber overboots. Plus you can peel off the outer layer and be dry & clean underneath. Makes a difference at the latte stops.

[Taz]

That's why I wore my blue gimp suit over my gear to the south island on the SR delivery ride. It rained non stop from home to south of levin and only my feet got wet :angry:

[Grubber]

Unless your gear is lined with a waterproof membrane then there is no hope, if it leaks with that then take it back to place of purchase, if you bought it as being WATERPROOF,that would be even after twelve months as long as the gear has not been abused...After 12 months well the plan is on their side..

If you spend good money to buy quality then u expect the same..

There is no shit on the market that will keep anything waterproof bees wax oil or the like it will only stall the water for a little bit..:yes:

Right behind you on this one.
Went through that exercise a year or so back and it doesn't matter what you put on them, they still leak.
It's the membrane inside that gets shagged either through wear and tear or a fall and once that as happened your toast. go buy a new one.
You could always just go buy a good over suit, i got a rev it one last year and it was pretty damn good.

[duckonin]

Sweet and yeap shitloads of places, just wonna get the right stuff.



.... now I will be as flash as Michael Jackson.:woohoo:


Flash as 'M.J' Used to B...:innocent:

[warewolf]

it doesn't matter what you put on them, they still leak.
It's the membrane inside that gets shagged either through wear and tear or a fall and once that as happened your toast. go buy a new one.Most of the time they leak 'cos they get dirty before they otherwise wear out. I took my first one back 'cos it leaked what I felt was prematurely, they gave it an 'industrial strength' clean and gave me the guff on how to maintain it. Was waterproof again and stayed that way for a lot longer. They'd had a flood of warranty returns since the stuff was fairly new to the market back then; when they pulled apart the jackets to repair the membrane they found most of the time they were not damaged just dirty.

That's why suits like the Ergo and the Rallycross are so much better for adventure use. You can completely remove the membrane layer to a) keep it clean, b) clean it, and c) repair it. Leave it packed in your bag in the hot sweaty dusty salty conditions, it will stay cleaner & more waterproof for longer.

These membranes were basically designed for clean snow conditions, they work best with a good temperature differential inside vs out, and contaminants destroy the very principle they work on, namely pores too small for water droplets but big enough for water vapour. Dirt, skin flakes, detergents etc fill the pores breaking the surface tension and allowing water to wick through.