Dirty NC30 needing tweaks

[sAsLEX]

ok a few things need doing to the beast in a few weeks when exams are over.

Electrical Fault on main ignition loom
Main tank bolt utter crap


Ok as most know my bike is half naked/street fighter/too poor for fairingshttp://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/gallery/albums/userpics/10623/11MARCH1.jpg ,
which has lead to some trouble recently with the electrics (Shut your mouths about dodgy honda.......). Anyways from the keythingo near the top there are two wires incased in a single loom? tube? which go down the right hand side of the bike. These became slightly water looged one day, ie got to bike at 11 one night in the rain after finishing some stuff at uni and bike was dead, fiddled and eventually poured about half a cup of water out of the loom and it started again.
Heard hairdriers were the thing to use to dry these out, went to borrow the mrsś but that has crapped out, so still go to dry them out as it still cuts out occasionally at low speed, and not so low speed on the coro loop, especially when turning (ie puttin presure on the loom)
So, here comes the point, what have others done to waterproof streetfighter type bike wiring, i was going to hack apart the loom and then go mad with insulation tape after I dry it out. Good idea or bad?


Tank bolt has stripped the thread, was like it when i got it but after having the tank off many a time its now poked good and proper, over summer half arsed re tapped the hole to a slightly larger thread and now thats poked again too. So do I retap or get a helicoil put in?? oh and anyone have a set of taps they could lend/ use if tapping is the answer??

oh and really should be studying but just cant get motivated for PD! AU engineers will know what i am on about.

[Milky]

Hahaha... the PD thing isnt suprising - I believe I have sustainability and PD2 next semester which I hear aren't the most exciting of papers.

I would suggest the stripping of the old insulation and putting new lekky tape round it, but only 'cos I am a poor bastard and couldn't afford some flash plastic tube to put it in. When you have stripped the outer insulation off the loom, mare sure that you keep note of where the bits split off or even retape it as you strip the old covering off. The bike cutting out sounds like you have some worn insulation around wires/ broken wire internals that play up when you turn/get water in the works. Make sure you check all the key pinch points to see if the wires show any external signs of damage.

For the tank bolt I would be tempted to braze a nut onto the frame, considering the fact that you have stripped what was in there twice. However, a helicoil may work well if there is enough clean thread/material to thread it into. You can do this yourself/get one of us to give you a hand. We have a variety of helicoils downstairs, so should be able to fit you out with something if it comes to that.

[WINJA]

TWEAK THE FAT HOS NIPPLES SHE LIKES IT

[crazylittleshit]

NC's are great :yes:

[Kwaka-Kid]

buy a set of fairings! :P

Hey dude, bring her around some other time and we can have a look, my bikes currently in street fighter mode, and is 50% of the time after ive done oil changes and cant be arsed putting lower fairings back on, yet i have no issues (well actually... wont go into that)

anyways dude, take care, and untill then just always check that main ignition plug, some of the spray on silicon stuff seems to do the jobby well, after youve used some CRC contact cleaner, plugged and unplugged a few times... also check the tabs arnt broken on that plug as they are on my bike (from when you forget yo keys and are in a rush + need to hotty your own bike - doh!)

[sAsLEX]

ok, first thing study sucks s why not fix the bike, good idea

pulled some of the insulation off and low and behold, someone more cheap and useless than me has been at this bike before. The *three* not two main ignition wires were finger wrapped together and insulation taped tgether, start the bike and fiddle with the dodgy connections and yip she cuts out. Off to borrrow a soldering iron, lent mine to someone and it never returned, and look at the local hard ware store for some heat shrink!

[MrMelon]

Mmmm smokey

[NC]

Mmmm smokey
:Police: That's a cool hat

[StoneChucker]

:Police: That's a cool hat
LOL, it should be since YOU'RE wearing it :niceone:
Nice burnout Ruth :devil2:

[Two Smoker]

:Police: That's a cool hat

you cheap arse, using a fucking wall....

[NC]

you cheap arse, using a fucking wall....
Meh! Cold tyres...and a fucked clutch

The neighbours kids thought I was cool!

[DEATH_INC.]

Maybe you should talk to loosebruce,it seems everytime th TL (special pos edition) get too wet it blows the main fuse,dunno if it's cause there's no fairing or just f****d wiring though....

[sAsLEX]

well this was the prob the wiring was done to pos standards
http://saslex.orcon.net.nz/BIKE%20001.jpg

so cleaned the connection out and soldered it for better electrical and physical connection and then a bit of heat shrink to help keep the water out

http://saslex.orcon.net.nz/BIKE%20002.jpg

[ben444]

Meh! Cold tyres...and a fucked clutch

The neighbours kids thought I was cool!

Yeah NC's don't have the strongest clutchs, and an extremely tall first gear (but they do have real good brakes??). I've shagged two clutchs on NC's by doing cool/stupid/drunken stuff on them. Just throw an extra steel plate in them... should fix it just fine. Just don't tell the next owner...

[GROOMER]

Thats some damn fine professional looking wire-twisting in that first pic! :)

[Kwaka-Kid]

NC30 and Ben444 you rapists! How dare you treat an NC with such a lack of mechanical sympathy! Stoned/drunk/love struck i dont care how you feel, life is all about NC's and they dont deserve such harsh treatment :P

hehe, im trying to make my clutch last although i dont have high hopes....

You realise that the clutch friction plates MR8 centre code is actually the old 497 ? and that superceeded to the KN?? i cant remember number.

what im trying to say...

is the VFR400 NC30 and NC35 have the same friction, and steel plates as a CR80, and XR200 2v (pre 84 and post 86)

only there are more of them and they have some on a one way system making it a slipper clutch. yus? :D

[dss3]

you cheap arse, using a fucking wall....

... a little like....

[dss3]

...now it rides a little lower in the rear...

[Quasievil]

:rofl:
...now it rides a little lower in the rear...

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :Punk: :Punk:

[sAsLEX]

:rofl:

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :Punk: :Punk:

I am assuming he dont want these pics linked in his selling it thread!?

[dss3]

I am assuming he dont want these pics linked in his selling it thread!?

Haha yeah I did think about that, but hell, what ya gunna do when you've got a bald tyre with a hole in it! Only one thing that sprang to mind and that was "burnout."

[ben444]

NC30 and Ben444 you rapists! How dare you treat an NC with such a lack of mechanical sympathy! Stoned/drunk/love struck i dont care how you feel, life is all about NC's and they dont deserve such harsh treatment :P

hehe, im trying to make my clutch last although i dont have high hopes....

You realise that the clutch friction plates MR8 centre code is actually the old 497 ? and that superceeded to the KN?? i cant remember number.

what im trying to say...

is the VFR400 NC30 and NC35 have the same friction, and steel plates as a CR80, and XR200 2v (pre 84 and post 86)

only there are more of them and they have some on a one way system making it a slipper clutch. yus? :D

Putting in an extra diaphragm spring makes them a bit stronger. The NC35 has thicker steels therefore has less plates than the NC30. But yeah CR80 one's should fit. It's a lot easier to get aftermarket ones for CR80's than NC30's even though they're the same thing. Go figure.

[Devil]

so cleaned the connection out and soldered it for better electrical and physical connection and then a bit of heat shrink to help keep the water out

http://saslex.orcon.net.nz/BIKE%20002.jpg
Very tidy! Maybe you should come over and tidy up some of mine!
Good work. :niceone:

[dss3]

Sweet, took possesion of my NC30 last night. :niceone:

She's an '89 with CBR600 race fairings on it. Should tidy up pretty nicely with a decent clean and a fresh spray of paint. First thing I noticed about it was how long the first gear is on them! And how easy it is to stall, only just let out clutch and it's fully engaged, will have to have a look to see if there's some adjustment somewhere.

Looks like i'll have to wait untill the weekend to take it for a decent blat, pretty dodgy riding up and down the street at 8.00pm in the dark without any lights! :nono:

SaSlex and KK, keep an eye out for a barrage on NC30 questions that are bound to be coing your way shortly!

Later

[sAsLEX]

Later, i will post the pics in a new thread!!

see above some pics required!

oh yeah the tall first gear is a bitch at the traffic light GP! opps I meant on a race track, does mean in places like the coro loop near the top you only need first for the tight stuff!

[dss3]

see above some pics required!

oh yeah the tall first gear is a bitch at the traffic light GP! opps I meant on a race track, does mean in places like the coro loop near the top you only need first for the tight stuff!

HAHA, took me a while to realise that I hadn't actually typed that, and you had just "miss quoted" me, smart ass. Yeah will get some pics tonight.

[Kwaka-Kid]

hey dude! Awesome to hear! ill help you however you can, and keep in good stock of 2nd hand parts.

Also yeah about that first gear, to be honest i try to keep out of it, id rather it was shorter then it is, as i hate transferring from 2nd down to first, the clonk, aswell as the way it pops outta 2nd often when shifting up from first.

Be careful on her! -what mods have been done?

[dss3]

Be careful on her! -what mods have been done?

Will do! As far as I have been told the motor is totally standard. The ignition key has replaced by switch on side of bike. All excess wiring/brackets/road going bits have been removed. Slick tyres. Fluids run to catch bottle etc.

Will have to wait untill the weekend to have a decent look at it 'cause it's always dark when I get home.

I understand that if I need to de-tune the bike to lose a few HP you have a good airbox mod though! :rofl: :niceone:

At the moment I haven't got a key for the fuel tank though, any ideas on how to get that puppy open? Had to take the tank off and put fuel in from the underside of tank to get it running, can see i'll get tired of doing this pretty fast!

[sAsLEX]

Also yeah about that first gear, to be honest i try to keep out of it, id rather it was shorter then it is, as i hate transferring from 2nd down to first, the clonk, aswell as the way it pops outta 2nd often when shifting up from first.



Only ever had that happen once and that was actually it popping out of 6th at just over the speed limit :whistle:

you still trying to get used to GP style shift??


oh and nice trademe pic dss

[Kwaka-Kid]

yeah i was watching that one on trademe, missed the end but i figured you got it dss3, They are NC30 front fairings btw, with either a broken screen or one off another bike, and rear fairings are off something else.

Looked alright hey, and yeah just flathead T bar screwdriver, and fucknig wrench that lock, should work, if not like i once failed you have to bore it out with a drill, only a wee way then it all falls apart aside from the 2 little tangs down bottom, by which u manually open side to side with small flathead screwdriver for rest of tanks life - it aint so bad.


And nah saslex, i love GP shift now, so used to it it rocks :D just a fucked box' i think, but its all good, and yeah ive had it pop outta 5th about twice in its life - purely my lack of firm shifting.

[dss3]

Well here are the much anticipated photos post painting. Looks pretty sweet in blue and silver ala MV Augusta 1000. Just don't look to close 'cause it was a bit of a rushed job but good enough for a race bike. Just got to chuck on my numbers now and get a new screen for it.

Finally got the key for the tank sorted too which is sweet. Seems like the front and side fairings are vfr ones like KK said, the tail is CBR600. I noticed that the air filter has been removed, is this common on a race bike KK?

Looking foward to getting it somewhere where It can be riden against other 400's just to see how it goes.

So what are the tricks to setting up the suspension of the nc30 anyway? Guess that will be the first thing to try and get sorted.

Laters
Daryl

[dss3]

Oh quasi, if your here, that second photo is for you... thought you might like to get yourself use to seeing that sexy rear end, although i doubt you'll ever get that colse to it! :motu: :rofl:

[sAsLEX]

i could bring mine down to a closed private race track for some testing maybe this weekend?!?1



bloody hell looks so clean compared to mine! and whats wrong with that paint!

[Kwaka-Kid]

sweet ddue she looks good!

personally id be putting the air filter back in, and is it a common trick? well yes and no, not if the bikes fairly stock, yor wasting time unless its been dyno'ed. but if it were to say have a full system, then airbox taking up the whoole undertank area etc, dynajet kit and all the rest then yes there are gains.

stock replacement emgo air filters are approx $50

otherwise i can throw together a Foam filter one for less.

[oldfart]

good bikes NC30s - almost as fast as GPZ500s :whistle:

[dss3]

Allright NC30 Guru's, need some help here. Race bike was running mint at Manfield yesterday, which was a relief as it was spluttering and cutting out a couple of weekends ago at Puke. Figure it must have just needed a decent blast after who knows how many months sitting unused.

So anyway, last corner of last session at Manfield, changing down a gear and "wammo" chain breaks (open closer inspection it was not a rivit type chain and it actually came undone) so nothing too major, manage to coast into the pits.

Chain has put a few scratches on the inside of the pipe which isn't any biggy, (learnt pipe is from an SP-1) BUT chain has also wiped out some electrical fitting, now I couldn't find it on the track but there half a connection hanging on the bike and i'm pretty sure it used to be connected to something. Bike has no power at all now, no ignition, no nothing, just like there is no battery in there.

So attached are some pics of the damaged parts, do any of you NC30 owners recognise the connector? If you do can you send me a pic so I know what I need to replace? It has two wires going into the connector, one is red/light green, the other is red/dark green.

Cheers guys,
Daryl

[sAsLEX]

had a quick look but no light so will check again tomorrow during the day, no ideas what it could be though!

[Kwaka-Kid]

too stupid to know the name for it but its a little black box thingy like fusey thing, plugs in there and the retainer white bit sticking up holds it in.

[ben444]

yeah wat he said..

[dss3]

too stupid to know the name for it but its a little black box thingy like fusey thing, plugs in there and the retainer white bit sticking up holds it in.

Haha, cheers man, i'll write that down at resite it to the guys at Boyd Honda tommorrow and see what they give me!

Hopefully the honda guys should be able to get me another one ot these black box fusey like fusey things, and they aren't too dear.

[Kwaka-Kid]

hahaha the guys @ Boyd Honda will just ring me dude!!!

Any issues and ill get off my fat arse and run 2 mins across some fences to dads place and take one off my spare loom for you.

Otherwise yeah, tell Kerran to do some work!

[dss3]

hahaha the guys @ Boyd Honda will just ring me dude!!!

Any issues and ill get off my fat arse and run 2 mins across some fences to dads place and take one off my spare loom for you.

Otherwise yeah, tell Kerran to do some work!

Cool man, i'll see how I get on tommorrow, gotta take it in to get a new chain anyway.

You going to Puke this weekend? Wouldnt mind having something to compare my bike too, dont know how well it actually goes, I couldn't keep up with frosty on the SV at manfield, but that probably had more to do with me and first time on that track than the bike. Hopefully quasi will take his 400 up as long as I get off my ass and paint it up and get the pieces back to him in time.

[dveus]

http://x-files.serveftp.com/harkermaticwebspace/1nc30/ncarticles/manuals/nc30%20servicemanual.zip

Heres a complete service manual for the nc30, the download is bloody slow though.

Might be of some help.

[dveus]

hopefully I'll have my NC30 at puke this weekend. Though wont be much good comparing to me, I just plan on getting through a day on the track, haven't really had a chance to give it a good test yet.

[sAsLEX]

ok here goes trying to put pic of elec diag up

[sAsLEX]

appears to have worked, it should help decode the fusey type black thingo next to the other bit near something

[dss3]

appears to have worked, it should help decode the fusey type black thingo next to the other bit near something

Cool, Cheers Alex, it must be the clutch diode, that is the only fusey type thing with the correct coloured wires going into it. Now i'll just see if I can track one down.