How much difference does fork adjustment actually make?

[neels]

Since I've had my Ducati I've had the feeling it wasn't turning into corners like it should, sort of lacking bite for want of a better expression, kind of like my old XJ when the front tyre got a bit flat.

So I thought I should have a bit of a play. Checked the tyre pressures were all good, so the next thing was the suspension, a new thing for me as this is the first bike I've had that actually has adjustable forks.

After a quick read of the manual to locate the adjusters, and figuring I'm an average sized rider of average riding ability, I set about returning everything to the factory defaults in the manual. Out for a ride yesterday, and it feels completely different. Turn in seems much more positive, and generally inspiring a lot more confidence with cornering.

My question from this is, does adjusting the front forks make that much difference to how the bike rides, or was it just in my head all along and now that I've changed something I think it's better? Or alternatively, if it has improved the handling how much better would it get if it was done by someone that actually knew what the hell they were doing?

[onearmedbandit]

Depending on the bike, the adjustments can make a lot of difference, and a poorly setup bike will feel like a new machine once properly setup. And yes, getting your suspension setup or checked over by someone who knows what they are doing is ideal.

Failing that, find a suitable section of tarmac. Take your tools and a notebook. Note the settings as you currently have them (after riding the bike and taking notes of how it felt etc), then start adjusting one thing at a time, ie wind out your forks preload a couple of clicks, then ride that section of tarmac again. Repeat until you've played around with all facets of the front and rear suspension. If it all goes pear shaped, you've got not only the base settings from the start of the day to revert to, but also your notes from throughout the day.

[DEATH_INC.]

Set the sags properly, it'll transform the bike if they aren't right.
And the adjustments make a big difference to the way it rides.

[White trash]

Set the sags properly, it'll transform the bike if they aren't right.
And the adjustments make a big difference to the way it rides.

So does losing 20kg, eh saddlebags?

[DEATH_INC.]

So does losing 20kg, eh saddlebags?
F*ck off, then I'd be a skinny little cunt :p

[F5 Dave]

Factory settings is a good place to start. My SP when I first got it had the rear comp wound full up. Was like getting a kick in the butt. A mate's new to him Dookatti had the rebound in the forks full in & it made it feel like the suspension was absolutely solid so I went looking for the Comp adjusters first (which someone had not positioned the axle correctly so you couldn't line up the hole to get to them).

Like solid. Why do people ride round like this?


So yes you can screw up a bike's handling in short order. But you can also adjust it back or tailor it to how you like it within the realms of the adjusters ability. This of course won't make the oil new again or the bushes in spec, or the linkage unsiezed. Maintenance will do that.

Then after that there are the limitations of stock suspension due to cost.

[imdying]

Assuming your bouncy bits aren't rooted, they work well and are worth adjusting. If it's old and rooted, then it's a waste of time.

[Pussy]

So does losing 20kg, eh saddlebags?

I reckon you'd be a tubby if you didn't have those tapeworms, too!.....

[neels]

Set the sags properly, it'll transform the bike if they aren't right.
Explain? Is it more or less the same deal as setting up the front fork on my mtb?


A mate's new to him Dookatti had the rebound in the forks full in & it made it feel like the suspension was absolutely solid so I went looking for the Comp adjusters first (which someone had not positioned the axle correctly so you couldn't line up the hole to get to them).

This of course won't make the oil new again or the bushes in spec, or the linkage unsiezed.
Haven't got to the comp adjusters yet, someone hasn't positioned the axle correctly on mine either.

I know what a solid rear end rides like , when I got my XJ it was horrible, I completely stripped the rear end out of it and ended up driving some of the bushes out with a hammer they were seized in so tight.

Assuming your bouncy bits aren't rooted, they work well and are worth adjusting. If it's old and rooted, then it's a waste of time.
They seem to be working ok, certainly a lot better than what I've had previously, rebound damping that works is a lovely thing.

[onearmedbandit]

Sag explained.

http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/howto/122_0508_motorcycle_suspension_setup/index.html

[Robert Taylor]

When you have maladjusted external preload adjusters and damping adjusters it is of course possible by external adjustments to make the stock suspension ''as good as it gets''. But the reality is it can all too often be a LOT better and no amount of external adjustment is going to compensate for internal deficiencies. For example if as is so often the case the compression piston ports are tiny in size they will not flow enough oil quickly enough from one side of their chamber to another when an abrupt obstacle tries to move the fork legs at a metre per second or more. The external clickers most often only adjust bypass bleed and in the case of the compression adjuster ( in a typical shaft dispacement cartridge )it is only working on a circuit that is accountable for approximately 12% of damping.
So you open the bleed right out to compensate for a very restrictive piston and or valving stack that gives a very harsh ride over abrupt bumps....what happens is that the forks are now becoming very sloppy and loose at low velocity and brake dive movements, but its still mostly harsh over those same abrupt bumps! In fact by opening out the bleed so far youve also raised the velocity even further at which the shim stack begins to open and it will not open as far. More pain, no gain.
Similarly, revalving those restrictive stock pistons is most often going to yield little result as the harshness is occuring because the ports just wont flow enough oil! You could technically remove the valving stacks off those pistons, aside from losing ride height control the forks would still be harsh over the most abrupt bumps.
The often used marketing tool ''fully adjustable suspension'' is actually a crock and has about as much credibility as teachers striking for yet another pay rise in the middle of the worst recession we have had for decades.

[johan]

| snip | In fact by opening out the bleed so far youve also raised the velocity even further at which the shim stack begins to open and it will not open as far. | snap |

Interesting point, never thought of that but now when you mentioned it, it sounds obvious.

cheers